Routes in Australia for selected grade

A great climb up the best section of the wall. Best done in one long pitch which will be pumpy to start and run-out to finish. Start at weakness 10m R of Stormalong.

1. 15m (24) Up crack to jug at roof. Arrange wires in horizontal pocket above roof then go boldly left and up to awkward stance. Veer right to flake then up to ledge.

2. 20m (22) Up easily on the left then traverse right above roof and up face to easier ground.

Start from the top of pitch 1 of Dante's Inferno. Line left of the arete of Shaky Town, which is just left of the pitch 2 flake of Dante's Inferno.

Knee pad recommended, it has been known to tear pants.

Very poor protection.

Coming in from left, gain arete left of the Dante's Inferno's 2nd pitch flake.

Exciting traverse of the lower wall.

Precision climbing. Take some micro cams. The wall L of Short Cut, starting from the lower off / belay anchors on Cut Short. Up the wall, then up R-wards past 2 BRs and straight up the up the wall to finish at the lower-off rings.

A serious continuation up the wall beyond 'Cut Short'. From ledge climb short sickle and press on after it stops.

Technically interesting with a tricky crux. Take some micro cams for the start. The orange wall between Short Cut and Day of Rest Direct Finish. The first BR is reachy to clip (a panic draw makes it easy) but not unreasonable if you are climbing at this grade. Up past a second BR to a rest. Clip the next BR, then stretch up and traverse L on horizontals to a fourth BR. Up past this then drift R to lower-off rings.

Start on ramp at base of wall, step across curving crack, into small hanging corner on the left, up to horizontal break, above are two short seams, take the one on the right till it ends, then run it out till it eases.

Start: On the ramp at base of wall

1. 30m (23)

2. 5m (22) As for Day of Rest direct Finish

Start at small tree at the middle of wall, over bulge, then up crack to slab, up this aiming for crack through next bulge, up to roof then desperately out crack and up to top.

Start below a right leading crack, up this then through small overlaps to main roof, up steep corner to bolt, then up to horizontal, then traverse two meters right and up to mantle finish.

Start: at rightward leading crack to the right of a small tree.

A girdle traverse of the lower curtain, start right of Cliff Hanger at small corner, up to traverse line and follow this to the cave on Day of Rest Direct Finish, either keep going or go straight up.

Right of Drama Class is a crack through a roof, hard moves around this lead to the main roof or curtain, follow this all the way left just under the roof the whole way. Start: Left of Phys Ed.

A gymnastic ceiling crack that requires lots of technique, up corner right of Cliff Hanger, or pitch one of No Soft Options then out the the obvious roof crack. Start right of Cliff Hanger, then up corner.

A huge rising traverse, start below left end of No Soft Options' crack.

1. 30m (23) Climb directly to crack, follow it to ledge on the right, step right to Touchdown, then keep going to past bolt, up two meters then step down and right to continue to belay stance.

2. 30m (-) Up right curving corner till it ends, then continue diagonally right to finish up easy corner (Old Mates, according to Louise's guide), to rap rings.

For a close shave! Start right of Touchdown at thin flake behind huge conifer. From top of flake, clip piton with wire(!). Levitate to stance at 15 metres. Either belay here or continue on jugs.

The face between 'Werewolf' and 'Solar City' has very fiddly gear.

Start: Start from 'Silver Bullet', midway between 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

The lovely orange wall is pretty hard for the grade. Start as for Full Moon, then left and up past knifeblade.

1. 18m (16) As for 'Full Moon' to a ledge at 18 metres.

2. 22m (23) Bulging wall to left, between 'Goodbye' and Let's Get Pissed to ledge. Left along ledge then right to finish up smooth grey wall just left of Let's Get Pissed.

Tackles the steep rock immediately left of the 'Full Moon' corner.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'Full Moon' below a small corner in the overlap.

Take right crack via tree. When crack ends, move right and up.

A short little seam on good rock. Take care at the start.

Start up winterset, then move right under the roof bulge to bolt. Go Big ! Then right and up to finish at ledge.

Start as for the traverse but top out through hanging groove.

Start from a cairn 2 metres right of Acapulco Gold and boulder up to join Loudly Inferior.

Up to small bush and then left and up to tricky finish. Start at undercling 4 metres right of Acapulco Gold.

The start is a bit like Paladin but three grades easier. Beware a large loose block at 8m.

Overhanging seam between Renunciation and Serpent LHS, ramble up a bit then arete and wall past two bolts to Serpent chains. Pro is hard to place on the start. Directly below the Serpent chains if you'd prefer to TR.

Subtle and sustained with small protection at start which is hard to place. Start about 6-7 metres right of the arete at a clear initial C.

Thin, poorly protected line then easily right. Now up left to large ledge, or could continue up Jidas which is directly above. Start about 3 metres right of the initial C.

Used to be a grade 21 sandbag.

Up to the roof, left through it and up. Quite fun on toprope.

Red-hot start then good pumpy climbing. Start at a small cave below curving line 4 metres right of Hopscotch.

Start up arete just right of Cayenne and go into a short seam which joins Cayenne below the top.

Start up Mediterranean Sundance Direct Start, then through the incipient seam midway between M.S and AaA. A nest of little cams can protect the crux finish

Toprope up the wall R of Anything At All. OK, nothing special.

If you're tired of Arapiles you're tired of life.

And you'll be tired after this. Overhung undercling flake with stuff all for your feet. You might not be surprised to find it hard for the grade.

Bolted line on back wall of Mason's Apron. Short and powerful. Start on the back of the Mason's Apron block.

Desperate start with cosmetic protection into easy line right of Salem.

Up cruxy bulging face past fixed hanger to ledge, then trad up easier face and crack to overlap past second fixed hanger, crux, then up to rap station.

"You'll need the reach of a sick dog", Tony Marian.

A beautiful wall but with chipped holds. Start below a bolt 3 metres left of Tinker Taylor.

Start a couple of metres right of a bottomless left facing (and crackless) corner capped by a small roof.

Climb the obvious overhanging fingery crack on steep red wall.

Can't stop, pressure's on.

Overhanging nose just right of 'Pressure Pete'.

Jam-crack through first large roof.

A scary start leads to a great face.

Start: Start left of arete of outcrop.

Start as for 'Phalanger' and then take the crack on the left.

Swing out through bulbous nose above.

Start: Start 1m R of 'El Posso'.

Rounded, undercut arete just right of 'Frank Kilby Memorial Route'.

Sustained overhung crack 8 metres right of 'Nuptial Pads'.

Roof and crack right of Four Fs

1. Start up Dilettante then best to belay on the ledge to watch the leader on the low crux.

2. Up crack from the top of pillar right of Dilettante past 2 bolts to finish up arête. Rap from anchors (a doubled 60m just makes it)

Difficult climbing but very contrived.

Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Promite' at the groove of Coeur De Lion.

1. 42m (24) Follow the groove of Coeur De Lion for 20 metres. Step right into subsidiary groove and follow it to small stance. Desperate boulder problem leads up brushed arete to ledge.

2. 8m (23) Directly up cracked arete above.

Wall then steep crack to fork. Take left fork.

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Stoker' below thin finger-crack.

Very hard start tnen flake on front wall. Finish right over overhang.

A little gem. Right-leading diagonal until it ends, then up.

Start: This is on the highest main buttress which is a little recessed.

Same start as previous problem but head right through the twin pockets then up through twin edges and top out.

Starts right of 'Inspector Gadget'. Sharp pocket (LH) to slopey edge, then pocket to jug. 2016 guidebook grade

Sit start with the a left edge and right hand pocket and head straight through the roof via a slopey rail followed by a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs.

A variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts just left of 'Butthole Surfer', then heads directly out through the roof in the direction of the No Sex With Mushrooms boulder.

This problem is located on a seperate boulder behind the Da Lai Lahmung area. It takes the major line from a sit start then through the roof.

First cracked bolt has now been replaced (2022), fifth bolt on the route is now also cracked(2024). Best to stay off until all the bolts on this line have been replaced.

Possibly the best route at the Guardhouse. Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located on left side of wall. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up right side of subtle arête to final juggy wall. 5 UBs and double UB lower-off.

A punchy start (sandbag?) leads to a sustained finish through and around the roof. Stick clip the first bolt, then four more to the anchors.

3rd bolted line from the left: RB then FH then RBs the rest of the way.

Short punchy number. The 4th bolted route from the left with the white stained scoop in the middle. Up slopers to roof heuco. Over this on incuts then one final tough move to jugs. Chain anchor. 4 RBs.

Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold at second bolt, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. It can be extremely difficult to put a draw on the third bolt because the ring is recessed quite deeply (it depends on what type of 'biner you use, some skinny ones go on easily, others are impossible). Double RB lower off.

Weaves around black streak on far right side of main wall. Bouldery start up slopers and slots to easier ground. At halfway head slightly right to rest stance then up past RB and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs. Five RBs and DRB lower-off.

Start off block, head left under 2 bolt along tricky rail a up and back right to jug and 3rd bolt, head up to anchors shared with Tech Noir

Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Starts at left end of cave at small well chalked rooflet. Stick-clip first bolt. Out left across crux roof past two RB's then up scoops on jugs (2 RB's) to good rest. Step right and thug through steep territory past final RB to jugs and DRB lower-off.

An excellent bonus finish to 'Media Puzzle'. From double ringbolts monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m past 2 extra FH's then up to chains (crux).

November 2016 - first FH on extension is loose!

A long scary trad traverse from the fourth bolt on 'Media Puzzle' across to the first bolt in the roof on 'Antics'. The middle of the traverse is very un-protected, with ground fall potential very likely.

Classic steep thugging. Mantle onto slab then up very steep horizontals to final roof dyno. Five RB's and double RB lower off. Watch your back when lowering off.

A little short but has awesome sustained and technical face moves. The second ring bolted route up the middle of the clean face on the left side of the block. Sun from around lunchtime. Rap rings at belay.

Gently overhanging with great moves on pockets then a steep finish via a big scoop.

Middle of the proud orange face hides a tricky move before venturing through the wild roof flake. The headwall can also be climbed for the full tick but adds significant rope drag. Use the fixed hardware and imagination to clean without too much hassle.

5m R of RM. Bouldery fun with some killer moves. Don’t let the seasonal waterfall and somewhat scrappy rock at the start put you off. Seeps at the start (to put it mildly) after rain. Final RB can be tricky to spot in the heat of the moment and is skipped by some.

The clean and pumpy ring bolted face right of the Don. Beautiful pocketed start leads through a technical sequence of quality moves before jugs to the top.

Start as for Jugged on triangular hold and head right on slopers and crimps to finish as for Jugged.

SS with pockets on right side of small but deep cave. Technically up and left via seam and pockets in face to top out .

Sit start with pockets on the right hand side of the low but deep cave. Move up to holds in the seam and left to pockets around the bulge and finish p the face.

SS on slope edges under nose. Back through roof via slot and knob pinch to top out.

Starts at tree against cliff. Bridge up tree till you can reach break above slopy ledge. Now power your way to the top.

Links the fantastic wall of The Vanishing Kingdom into Deborah Triangle's corner at a much more reasonable and sustained grade. Use long sling on the bolt at the bulge.

Direct, sustained and well protected.

Start: Start 5m L of arete

An impressive line, even more so now that is free.

Start: It\\\\'s the huge orange corner 18m right of 'Harbinger'.

1. 18m (18) Follow the weakness to the foot of a small overhang.

2. 27m (24) Climb the crack (originally aid) until to the roof and traverse left to a ledge.

3. 20m (-) Climb the short crack, move left into the major line, up to belay below a steep orange corner

4. 14m (-) Traverse left, then up to finish left of the overhangs.

Good climbing but serious.

Start: Start on dark left arête of grey/black wall in decent gully. Up

Start: Start at TPCK of TCA. Up 2m then up and Right on good pockets, to horizontal break (FH). Right to join "Energise your soul"

A very steep link-up of 'Bees Knees' and 'Spunky Monkey'. Up 'Bees Knees' to the diving board, place some optional medium cams then traverse right into the super exposed finish of 'Spunky Monkey'. Route needs to be back-cleaned or 2nded.

The overhung bolted arete just right of a deep chimney where the track first meets the cliff. UPDATE: Second last bolt is loose.

Makes 'Portland Criminals' doable for the average person - and gives good sustained climbing. Up 'Pains Ford' to third ring bolt, then traverse right (FH) across horizontal break and large pocket into 'Portland Criminals' and up this to top.

Warm up your fingers before tackling this feisty route. A soft tick if you can crimp. Begin at slab below very shallow left leaning corner about 4m right of 'Pains Ford'. Crimpy past three ring bolts to juggy shelf. Easier wall above past another four rings to lower-off. On the second ascent Rich managed to snap off three key crux holds, upping the route from 23 to 24.

Kachoong on roids! 50m uphill from Sport Crack is a wall capped by large roofs. This route climbs right edge of wall then swings left across massive roof flake and straight through the guts of the overhang above. 7 RBs.

Starts up the amazingly pocketed wall then moves delicately left through scoop to small flake. Trend diagonally left to anchors.

For those that like their bombs dropped in a straight line we have The Enola Gay .The result being a nuclear wasteland. Starts up Uranium-234 till the 4th bolt then step slightly right to join in on the 5th bolt of nuclear wasteland. Continue up to the anchors of nuclear wasteland.

Start 3m R of The Hot Zone, just L of Melting Moments. Up the edges and over the overlap almost in THZ, then work R till you get your R hand in the top flake of MM, then L on under clings and through the roof to join THZ for its last 3 bolts.