Begehungen in The Graveyard

Warm up

I dislike slopers. #2ndgo

Repeat

Very similar movement to Dia, but just more sustained and smaller holds. #2ndgo

Fell on the last hold at the end of the crux. As close as you can get to an onsight.

This thing seems hard and condition-dependent. The one to the left suited my style better.

Red point! Still seeping at the last bolt which adds a tricky red point crux. But I knew what I was doing this time so it went very smoothly even though my fingers were starting to numb out a bit at the top. The second draw was pre-clipped as recommended by FA in the guidebook.

Warming up the fingers in the shade. Cold rock!

Couldn't figure out the roof. Made for a tough warm up

Had two goes. Finger was feeling slightly achy. Will go next time.

Nice route

Third go. Got to the last holds before the jug at the anchor. The left sloper had gotten wet from the seepage again (the climb was wet at the top today making it a bit tricky to finish). Got stuck with a high right foot and wet slopers for holds and couldn't reverse back in order to change course. Fell at the last hold again. Then got rained off. Oh well.

Second go. Fell on the very last move to the jug for clipping the anchors. What a fool.

Putting the gear up. Moves seem good for me.

Warm up

Cleaning the draws. Wasn't as tired as I thought I would be

Good first day out climbing

Fell going to the clipping hold for the last bolt

First 5.12 of the year! Been focusing more on projecting harder things like Guerrera Cosmica at El Chonta, or Lucid Dreaming in Boulder Canyon. Pretty great climb. Techy but enjoyable, well-bolted slab into an absolute rest before a steep hand crack, followed by a powerful jug (or good hold) haul. Chrissy made the hands crack look easy, but when I tried it the first shot, thinking I would onsight this, it may as well have been V10- didn't even know where to begin, and everything felt impossible. I'm sure it would be easier if I had any crack climbing skills at all, but as it happens, I bouldered it out using the crimps inside the crack, which feels like V5ish. Pulled it off second try on this beautiful winter sunny day that just so happens was Chrissy's birthday!

Thought I would onsight, but it's a tough 11d! Did back-to-back attempts and was too tired on the second try. I kept forgetting my sequence and not finding the right holds. Not over after the crux, as you have to trust these non-holds to top out! Crimpy, tensiony and reachy.

.10a on Mountain Proj and I think it's fair. Rather awkward and weird route.

Very good! Really enjoyed the slab crux in the middle. Another nice part just before the top.

Very nice section in the middle where you mount a small bulge/roof. Great route!

Warm-up. Went left after the ledge by mistake and thus did the upper part of Reincarnation.

Technical 5.10 climbing at the bottom leads to a technical sequence of long moves that go from crimp to crimp. Very satisfying. Ends with pumpy but straightforward crimp-pulling. 6th straight week sending at least one 5.12! Very thankful for a beautiful, fun day out before I go on a trip!

Really nice, gym bolted warm-up. Lots of "fake news", i.e. non-holds with chalk in them.

Went up once just before the send attempt. Full sun made those slopers and slimpers feel hard!! Rehearsed it a bit, found great foot beta for the sloper throw such that I could reliably stay under it, and then tried again. I was in full battle mode to get to through all of it. It did not feel over until I topped out the victory ledge. Very, very stoked! Best single day outdoor climbing performance in a while!

Warm-up/send attempt went really well! Listened to my body, so I changed my layback beta slightly, but the business end was just as expected. Felt great to open up a "playing hooky" climbing day sending this!!

Pretty good warm-down on a juggy meander to wrap up a pretty darn good day.

Tried hard on my first attempt at this overhanging beauty, and got so close to grabbing the final jug! It is a little hard to find. Easy climbing leads to a short 3-bolt overhang that has you on steep underclings, body-tensing footwork, and a big move to the jug off of which one clips the anchors. Next time I'll get this!

10a in the guidebook. Very exposed but cool climbing.

Got the moves rather quickly. Long moves to slopers followed by a crimpy tension section that I did pumped. Working session. Could go in 1-2 more sessions.