Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.

1m R. Scramble up to start ledge from R, then carefully wander over to far L of ledge (chalky choss) to U-bolt above a chossy white V-groove. Route blasts up from here passing 5 FH’s to anchor. Steep, bouldery and thin with a spicy top section. A bit of care with the beautiful start flake, please.

Prepare to be dominated. Climb Miss Sixty to last bolt, then grapple the overlap diagonally R passing another 5 FH’s to shared anchor of next route. Absolute beast of a pitch. Super good.

Behemoth is a beast mentioned in Job 40:15–24. The name has come to be used for any extremely large or powerful entity. 4m R. Stickclip first high bolt, but start waaay to the left up a vague ramp. Easy climbing up a corner, then smooth face to a sit down rest ledge (cave). Exit left out of this, and then - hold on to your hat! Super crazy amazing. Difficult to grade this endurance pitch.

A really beautiful problem. Climbs the 10-degree overhung face starting on the low break and working through some tough and unique moves to the top. Worth the stars.

PYP into second pitch of Troglodyte, continuing into the end of COH

Sit start just right of crack, moves across to arete where ToL joins left hand arete.

Finish as for ToL.

Start same as v3. Match on the small crimps to left, not the deep crimp on right. Massive throw out to left, with bump into slope, and finish on right.

Stand start. Hard mantle around a bulge.

Tall mans start up rail, then hard long move left to link into other rail.

Right of The Fluming. Stand start on 2 shit edges, jump to top. Grade may be off.

This boulder is 10 m down stream of Mad Woman's Breakfast.

Sitting on other boulders, there is a short roof under the boulder. From the start position, your back is to the river.

Sit start on obvious large sloping feature with your left heel by your hands. Up to a small slopey crimp, or if you like, to the very small, incut and very sharp flexing crimp. Then pull hard and throw up to rail, match then very hard mantel top out.

Up left side of overhang

From the Waterfall Dome Parking area follow the quad trail to the Dome, once you see the "Three Stooges" boulders, go uphill passing the stooges on the right for about 100m. As the hill gets steeper look to the right and you should see this boulder.

Sit start on obvious feature and head to right arete with difficulty and heel hooking. Once you get there, keep going up and left to top. Then keep your heart pumping by down climbing the 'Sickle of death project'.

Match on the big flake and dyno to glory

Low start sit/crouch R/H on slopey sidepull L/H on lowest sidepull flake, bump up right through sidepull to gain the flat edge/ bump left up through sidepull flakes then into the stand start

Variant of Bec De Corbin exiting right into Pilum at the big lip flake.

Sit start on sidepull moving up and left through pocket. Top out.

Slow drying top section.

Start 4m right of Womb Raider in the slopey 1 and 2 finger pockets and traverse up and left into Womb Raider top out.

Emmanuel Madayag

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Start on the two slopers, a tricky sit move gains the right hand gaston finishing with a final jump to the lip. Not sure on the grade.

Shared start with 'Fire In the Hole' but moving right and up along small slopey crimps, then jumping for the lip and mantling over.

Vision by Tom Hodgson climbed by William Frost-Foster.

Stand start on a right hand edge and left hand undercling around head height. Make a reachy move to some dimples with the right hand and make your way up on edges to top out.

Start: Sit start as for Yummy noodle. Then move right on underclings below the capped roof. Finish up 'Dead bolt direct' left of the block above.

Climb the low rail out right but keep going, staying low under the little prow. Come up into the second scoop, press through and gain the lip on the R/H side. Mantle as for "Hydraulic"

Start: Sit start as for previous problems

This is the nastiest finish going. Frustration! and it's usually wet. Start on some deep breaks at the back r/h side of the cave. Climb out to the big obvious jug now try to climb directly out the very steep roof to the rounded top out 1m right of the other problems. Uses the bad bad pinch type hold that looks like it may have broken. Heart breaking last throw to the slopers

Start: Back r/h Side of cave

As for fast ball but move left through poor holds to slap out the blunt left hand little 'Arete' of the cave. Still avoids using any holds from the established line for your hands especially the huge jug on the lip.

Start: Sit start as for 'Back Burner'

Start on right most jug and dyno to the lip. Mantle straight over.

Start as for established line and head to right big dinner plate jug. Then head straight out through small crimps and an undercling near the lip in the middle of the lip.

Climb room with a view all the way to the slopey lip then bust up and left to good ledge before going straight up and up on some crimp rails before easy high terrain topping out. First done with a tied in spotter and it would be recommended.

An epic line that follows The Red into Roast Lobster Mornay all the way to the top of the cave.

Stand start on two edges, Move up right hand to a slimpy edge and pop to a left hand slotted edge. move up to the lip and mantle out.

Link Mad Max into Lethal Weapon. (Main jug rail is out as per Lethal Weapon)

Climb 6ft deep into hot rats topout

Link 6ft deep into causes

Link Indian Leg wrestling into causes broken brains.

start as for hot rats and climb all the way into broken brains

Crouch start on the small pockets under the roof, big move up to the crimps on the lip. Finish as for Goldie Horn.

Sit start on left hand crimp and right hand undercling pinch. Head straight out the rooflet into gold member. The back step isnt in to start.

Mixed route. Start up SOAP then follow rings across the roof on slopers to the hanging fist hold then across to anchors

Stand start matched in the lowest left jug in the break, traverse left to some committing moves around the arête then fight the small bulge to gain the jug topout. A must do.

Yossi Sundakov-Krumins

Absolutely mind bending trad line. One of the great routes of this genre in Australia and in a spectacular location. Access by an easy paddle from Brooklyn. First ascent done by Johnathon Clearwater on pre-placed gear. First ascent with all gear placed on lead by Simon Bischoff 2018 at grade 30.

Start on the two good underclings inside the roof under the line of old carrot bolts, left and up to the final jug of Exit Strategy via the seam of underclings in the roof and some holds on the face.

Excellent! Link the start of 'Love Gun' into the finish of 'Stringybark Massacre'. Good moves.

A square cut arête 80m right of 'The Whorl'. Surely someone has done the crack.

Super steep and technical climbing on the right side of the cave. Finish at double rings. Bolted by PW

Pull on to the crimp and then jump.

Start on the obvious flake/ledge. Move out via big crimpy moves to top out.

From the jug on the back wall, come out to the slopey lip, then press, press, press through the slopers and the short corner.

Start low on the undercling right of the orange streak. A slopey traverse rightwards leads into Watch Your Back Jack.

About 100m further south on a steep boulder near the water. Start matched on the bucket jug, set up and go!

Matti Puckridge

Full Metal Jacket Original but exit out right via a small left hand crimp and another right sidepull. Jug bulge is out for hands and feet.

Hugo Hornshaw

Out sharp pockets in the roof to desperate mantle keeping hands left of Violent Crumble. Watch out for exploding holds…

Start: Sit.

'Woolly Jumper' via the sharp crimp statically.

Start from 'Pockets of Resistance' and traverse right to finish up Highlander.

Start low 'matched' on the flake down below the roof. Gain the juggy ledge and lunge to starting pockets of Ascension Day, finishing up and left as for Ascension Day. Knock it down a grade if you exit via jugs.

Start: Sit

Start = as for El Kooko. Traverse right staying (very) low and finish up Snakebite.

'Boogie Knights' starting as for El Kooko, topping as per Ascension Day.

Start 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic' and climb to jugs just left of tree, up to crimps & dead point to slopey rail to finish out left. Probably a grade easier if you move a bit left into undercling & climb as for Shell Shocked.

Start as for Chest Rockwell & finish with Captain Courageous Left.

Climb up 'Arms Race' till the break before big move right to small crimp. Cross to finger jug to finish as for 'L'Homme Obu Left'.

Emmanuel Madayag

Sit start for super reach/dyno around bulge and finish up If The Glove Fits.

Start: Sit

Variant of 'If The Shoe Fits' eliminating the low, sloping overlap where you'd put your right hand.

Start: Sit

Start as for Business as Usual, head left through the starting jug of Rocket Man to top out as for Arms Race

Classic Compression Problem with a tough top out. Start at the obvious jug at the left end of the cave. Using what ever holds needed (they are obvious) to gain the lip and then mantle up and over.

Tyrone Clements

Sit start under cave and compress up lip and holds in roof into Little Things

Climb Siotaro Wish Flower into Arcane Power.

Starts on ledge below the main cave. Climbs up and left to arete. Bad landing

Thin, technical and powerful and then a totally desperate crux.

Sans mono... Harder...

Sam Healy

up the lower wall on the far right of the crag. Some small underclings leading to a slopey finish, highish.

Pete Balint thought it should be called Frutilexia

Utter desperate mantle/top out.

Start on block under roof. Move out and up on slopers to top out high.

Start in the middle of the obvious break, then powerful span move into a thin pocket, then crimp your way to the first ledge

Climb "Midwife Crisis Direct", then climb the lip back right around the corner to top out as for J2.

Same start as 'Midwife Crisis' but instead of using the jug, use a sloper/pinch directly overhead for LH and keep moving up using a series of crimps.

Start matched on slopey flat edge. Move up the middle of the face using good side-pull crimps and sneaky heel/toe hooks. Top out

Emmanuel Madayag

Crouch start on obvious ledge, push your way into the undercling (some parts of this could be brittle) and make a long move out to the lip. Tech your way out of the cave and mantle to glory.

FA: Lachlan Turnbull

Sit start under the jugs under roof and do a big move to join the stand start.

Probably one of the best looking rock in the entire area and a must do classic if you are into highballs.

Stand start in the break, tackle the small roof and follow the stunning looking arete with some perfect pinches to a scary topout above the void.

Pat Reynolds

A big contender for one of the best traverses in Sydney.

Sit start on the obvious flake and follow the perfect line of slopers at chest height until they disappear. From here, do a big move to the upper ledge and keep traversing right for a few more meters. Top out on the big scoop just before the massive tree.

Shared start with Booby Prize, but go straight out of the roof to a wild cut loose dyno at the end.

Starts right of Whipper's Hideout matched on the undercling. Do a big move to the crimpy edge and move left to join Whipper's Hideout top out.

Probably the best hard slab in Sydney.

Tricky start leads to a dynamic low percentage crux. Jug your way to glory.

Start at "Jimmy's 5" in lie down position on right hand side of cave & head left to arete & up & keep going & mantle. Save something for the second crux & no traversing right into "Jimmy's 5".