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Routes in Acephale for selected grade

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Showing all 10 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Junction
5.12d Go Ask Alice

Start to the left of the yellow streak. Easyish climbing to an excellent rest is followed by increasingly difficult moves and clips up the blank wall. Surf around and finish with a tricky mantle.

FA: Jd Leblanc

Sport 34m, 2, 18
Lower Wall Left
5.12d Ice-Cream Head

Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt

FA: JD LeBlanc & FAA Todd Guyn

Sport
Lower Wall Right
5.12d Nemo Sport
Upper Wall - The Mirror Stage
5.12d Swelltone Theatre

Start off the left end of the ledge and traverse left backcleaning quickdraws to reduce rope drag. This long, beautiful climb features a rare body length tufa and a high and pumpy crux.

FA: Daren tremaine, 1994

Sport 26m, 11
Upper Wall - Bataille
5.12d Jingus Americanus

Seriously, Yankees go home....jks. But seriously don't bring your ego to Acephale tourists The most popular 12D in Alberta. Polished, steep, pumpy and short. From the ledge, climb over a chossy section into a (12b) crimpy move, gaining a corner. The "crux" is at the top of the corner and involves a big slap to a sloper from a pocket. Part of the difficulty in this route is clipping the chains, so if you want the 12D tick, don't but any long draws or slings on the anchor!! FAists words.

FA: Daren Tremaine, 1993

Sport 14m, 6
5.12d Half Nelson

Climb a small right facing corner before pulling a short overlap to reach two bolts worth of compact grey rock. Trend left on pockets to finish on the anchor of Jingus Americanus.

FA: Evan Hau, 2013

Sport 14m, 6
Upper Wall - The Pavement
5.12d Icebox Of Broken Dreams

Start this crimpy line left of a big tree growing two metres from the cliff. A tough bouldery start is followed by an interesting sequence on blankness. Mellow climbing follows before a final bulge redpoint crux.

FA: Matt Pi, 2006

Sport 18m, 8
5.12d Fern Family Massacre

Many intricate cruxes stand between you and the anchors including one at ground level. Start in a mailbox slot just left of the first bolt.

Sport 27m, 13
5.12d Abandonment

This excellent route starts just left of a leaning tree (by climbing in from Rockemoveya then traversing right on a few pockets). A powerful mid pitch boulder problem is followed by a slab Crux at the top.

FA: evan Hau

Sport 14m, 7
5.12d Raging Boner

From the Boner anchor traverse right to some desperate undercling moves.

Sport 12m, 5

Showing all 10 routes.

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