Routes in Australia for selected grade

Stand start in dish on the left and up through nice edges and slopers to underclings.

Traverse the lip.

Sit start the steep line on the left of the cave.

Sit start in the back of the cave and take the right line out.

Committing roof then up to a ledge shared with 'Orpheus'. Now traverse R to a rap anchor (which may or may not exist or be useable).

Start: Start R of RT.

Up E until you have a roof on your right. Traverse R here, then up over bulge past BR and straight up to the nice ledge atop 'Eurydice' p1.

Start: Start as for E.

Overall grade is 23, but it's not clear how hard each pitch is.

Start: Start 2m L of P.

1. 15m (-) Bouldery flake, then up to ledge above flake.

2. 30m (23) Directly up the arete to Bard's 2nd belay.

3. 35m (23) Continue directly up arete to Bard Terrace.

Described separately so that 'Poppies' pitches 1 and 2 get noticed as a great 19. This pitch is all over after the start so it's not worth doing ... unless it's your best option to impress a hottie bumbly hanging around on Bard Terrace.

Start: Start on the Bard Terrace, a few metres L of the final pitch of Bard.

Each pitch was established independently, and you can repeat them that way if you wish. Linking them into one route is the way to go, however.

Start: Start R of The Bard.

1. 30m (22) 'Wall Street' (*). Mossy start then jam through the roof, and doddle up the ramp to belay atop pitch 1 of The Bard.

2. 10m (22) Turning Point. From the top of The Bard pitch 1, step L and take the seam. Then blindly L around the bulge and up to the 2nd belay of The Bard.

3. 35m (22) Heavy Dudes (*). Work your way up the white groove R of 'Checkmate' pitch 3 and left of The Bard pitch 3. There's a loose block. At the bulge, awesome moves head L then up the leaning headwall.

Start at the arete just R of Allez. Up to BR then into crack which takes you R around the corner.

Start on the west face of the pinnacle. Stick clip bolt, veer R, then back L. Apparently has a fragile undercling.

Up Shoadee for 4m, then traverse L to brief ramp (BR). Up middle of black wall.

"Start variant 2m right left of Let Me Cry" - whatever that means!

Start at the L end of Denim Wall.

1. 15m (-) Up the unpleasant chimney roof, bridging at the lip.

2. 30m (22) Up, then traverse R under roof, up Denim for 3m, then diagonally R to arete (beware loose block).

Avoids the desperate crux of See You Round by starting to the right at the hole. Bridge up 5m and clip the bolt on the L. Swing L around the arete (wire and tiny cams) to a mega jug and then up and R, move back L to crack through bulge, and then R again to finish at chains. Big holds and very steep. Not really sure of the grade, just a guess. The rock and the moss on this are not of the best quality, be cautious on it!

Start 5m R of Bulger DS.

1. 10m (20) Roof crack then go 4m R.

2. 15m (22) Diagonally L up weakness through roof then up to ledge.

3. 17m (18) Finish up just R of the arete to the summit of Bluff Minor.

Start on the ledge R of Locksmith (which is also the start of pitch 2 of Vixen).

1. 10m (22) Crack through roof

2. 20m (22) Mantle at 5m then delicate wall.

Start just R of Rd'E, as for Vixen pitch 2.

1. 10m (22) Up face and roof as for p2 of Vixen then move L to belay.

2. 20m (22) Step L, and then up as directly as you can, about 1.5m L of pitch 2 of Rd'E.

1m R of ML.

1. 15m (23) Bridge up a gap, then the seam with a piton.

2. 15m (21) You can either squirm up the back of the wide crack, or hand traverse the lip of the roof to the R arete and then up that.

3. 15m (22) Go R a few metres then take the fingers crack through the roof.

Start 4m R of Aristocrat. Easily up corner to a ledge, then step L and pull through roof to boldly clip a BR. Now a bulge.

A low roof then into the beautiful corner. The gear is adequate but it's critical that you get certain pieces just right as they are a little spaced at times.

Links Scorpion Corner into Scorpion, possibly the way Hot Henry Barber did it. For full value and the full tick don't step onto the ledge at the top of Scorpion Corner but instead go through the steep roof crack on good jams to enter Scorpion after the step across.

Straight up to bulge, step R, up to ledge. Now the small corner up the great headwall (small wires).

Start: Start as for W.

From halfway along the curved crack of QV, go straight up then finish L.

Start: Start as for QV.

Start as for Scorpion. You can also approach by traversing in from the right, from the base of Anxiety Neurosis.

1. 20m (23) Thrutch and thrash through the offwidth roof right of the Scorpion. chimney-roof. Belay at 2 rusty carrots over the lip.

2. 15m (19) A great pitch up the corner then the face past 2 FHs (new in 2010, replacing manky original carrots). You might wish to sample this pitch independently of the "delights" of the first pitch, by doing Goodbye To All That.

Start 2-3m L of Missing Link.

1. 25m (22) Up over low roof then short flake for 6m, then traverse left above the roofs past a FH to belay as for Anxiety Neurosis. A 4 camalot is handy at the start.

2. 20m (22) Step L and climb a thin seam which is just R of pitch 2 of Kama Sutra, and just L of Holy Moses.

A pretty awesome bit of rock which sees no action since a bolt pulled out. Start 1.5m R of Missing Link and 5m L of Station to Station. The bolt has been replaced, but is within reach of a long stick clip, otherwise the first gear is a fair way off the ground.

Start just R of Thunder Crack. Groove past bolt to stance. Move R to next bolt then go up until you're under the roof. Now go 8m R and down a bit to a rap station. Old schoolers can top out, everyone else can take the easy option and rap off. The rap rings are starting to age out (as of 2023).

Up Despatched to its first traverse (2nd FH). From here, traverse R all the way to Bulger. Take heaps of RPs.

Start 15m down R of Thunder Crack. Crack to pocket, R to jug, up to break and lower-offs. The pro is not great.

Start 4m R of B. The steep weakness with a desperate exit.

Double ropes are mandatory as pitch 1 takes a devious wandering line through some daunting territory. Also note that pitch 1 can be climbed in isolation as there is a rap anchor just right of the first belay.

Start: Start just R of 'Eagle Cleft', at the top of the easy initial slabs.

1. 25m (23) Through the guano stained roof, L and up slabby corner to bulge, then R into a L-leaning corner. Up this then short slab to ledge.

2. 10m (22) The face just L of an obvious nose, then small corner to a stance.

3. 40m (-) Up L to arete and big ledge.

4. 22m (-) The nice L-leading corner on the R wall of 'Eagle Cleft'.

Thin crack, move R under roof, then pull through roof. Up wall to ledges and traverse R along these to the 'No Future' rap anchor.

Start: Start 1.5m R of' 'Marbuck'.

Start: Start as for 'Kaiser'.

1. 30m (18) Up Kaiser's crack and follow it straight up (i.e. don't veer up slightly left and then traverse back right).

2. 16m (19) Go up to the roof and pull through it just to the L of the two prominent noses on 'Kaiser' p2.

3. 50m (22) Follow a weakness which leads up R from the belay, then finish easily. Originally said to be 25m but it's a full 50m to Flinder's Lane.

Up 'No Future' to the bulge then, instead of traversing R, continue straight up to a (new) bolt (as of late May 2015). Pull the bulge and step R to finish up the line.

Shallow groove to thin crack, then L to next crack and up it.

Start: Start 2m R of VGU.

Trend rightwards into the hanging groove via a hard boulder problem (wires then bolt). Further technical moves (2 more bolts plus small cam) lead to easier ground and lower-off.

Start: Start just right of 'Resignation' 1st pitch.

Start right of Tough Titties below a rooflet / blob sticking out at about 6m with a bolt below it. Up to the blob and past it then up and left to chains. Nice rock.

Good climbing on the top pitch which may be little easier with addition of a bolt.

Start as for Velvet Green and Mother Brown, midway between Yo Yo and Kestrel,

1. 25m Do 'Velvet Green', or Mother Brown.

2. 35m (22) Climb overlap past BR, as for Surfacing, and move rightwards and follow series of corners up to top right corner of overlaps. Step right, up wall 2 metres ('Ducks On The Pond' is very close on right) and traverse left to ledge. Off right end of ledge past BR up sustained seam to ledge system. Go left up the last little wall to rap anchor.

Quite an attractive climb up the steep narrow buttress right of 'Yo Yo'.

Start: Start as for 'Falcon'.

1. 10m (-) Easily up the first pitch of 'Falcon'.

2. 45m (23) Climb the diagonals on 'Falcon' then continue up the steep wall above past a couple of bolts (second is a bit offline) to rap station.

The left arete of Phoenix has a hard boulder problem low down amongst a lot of easier climbing.

A fabulous route that is one of the harder 22s about. From 3rd Belay of Syrinx, head up to the hand traverse leading left to overhanging corner. Up this to reachy step left around roof then meander to top.

As for Break a Leg. When at basin, move leftwards past bolt(19) to lower off.

All trad. Start at seam 2m left of Broken Song up past bulge. Up line to headwall and into shallow basin stance, wish yourself good luck then step right into seam and up on small holds to lower off. The finish seams unlikely and is committing.

This good continuation for 'Broken Song' finally tackles the big overhang above the big diagonal pitch of 'Syrinx'.

1. 40m (21) As for 'Broken Song'.

2. 30m (16) As for pitch 3 of 'Deathwatch Beetle'.

3. 30m (14) Up wall, veering left. Juggy groove leads to ledge out left.

4. 18m (22) Twin cracks then through roof (big cam). Walk off to right.

Good, thin climbing up blankest section of the wall.

A few variants sit starting off the obvious chalked Holds around left from Waterboys. Climb straight up then off right to jugs (easiest) or drift left up face towards arete. A harder variant (V4ish) heads hard left from the start heading towards juggy flake via a couple of crozzly slimps.

Start as for Left Wall moving right and up to exit as for Crankshaft.

Climb Waterboys, upon arrival at the finish/lowering jugs heave up to gain and exit via the flake system as for Vague Corner.

Sit start to Waterboys via a dino from the steep juggy rail.

Start as for Sit the Waterboys finish as for Waterboys XL. Alternate sit start variants from Left Wall, Pushrod and Head Gasket all around the same grade and quality.

Start as for Sit the Waterboys moving up and leftish to finish via the easier section of Left Wall.

Start as for Sit the Waterboys moving right and up to exit as for Crankshaft.

Sit start from the two pockets moving up and leftish via jugs to mantle the bulge direct, exit as for Crankshaft.

Sit start from the pockets as for Pushrod to jugs, next moving up to and right traverse the juggy rail before a tricky mantle up the steep central gully just left of Crankshaft. Exit direct or move right and up via Waterboys XL for the extra half grade.

Sit start matched on the low rail of right wall dead pointing up good holds to finish direct up the slabby bulge and groove.

Start as for Grandstand to the finger jugs then low traverse right under the bush into and up Corner Arete, Pumpy!

Cool lowball climbing as for Grandstand/Thirst Corner continuing low right traverse to exit via ramp and slopers.

Sit start as for Caesar Midget, but straight up (ignoring holds on/around arete) to big sidepulls either via bloody sharp holds or bloody big moves. Top out.

Probably done before, please change details if you know them.

Sit start as for Caesar Midget, then low traverse right reversing Gonzo Gladiator to finish on high jugs at right end of face.

Probably done before, please change details if you know them.

Jump to the poor hold and straight up

Latch onto the hanging flake just L of Trapeze's start, then finish up the wall R of 'Trapeze'.

Fun! Climb Swinging to second bolt then step left and follow weakness to top. Good wires protect the crux.

An interesting, albeit short route managing to squeeze in hand jamming, finger locking, an undercling, sidepulls, a mantle (of sorts) and a delicate traverse in its first 6 metres.

Clip the first bolt and traverse off L to Swinging, then up.

Start: Up the pillar 2m R of Swinging.

Up the the seam past a fixed peg.

Start: Below the wall with 'Red Baron' is a tiny seam. If you can't find it you might need a microscope.

Climb the face just R of the arete.

Start: Traverse in the the base from under Procul Harem (easy but exposed). Start at the far L of ledge.

Probably one of the first routes at the grade in the country? These days it rarely gets repeated.

Start: To the R of 'Blow Up' is a poorly protected groove.

Face L of Factoids, with a crux 3rp that is best placed on abseil. I'm going to put a bolt in. Traverse L after crux to finish up crack, rap off Llareggub chains.

Pretty contrived.

Start: Just R of 'Bastress'.

1. 25m (22) Take the seam up L side of orange wall through bulge.

2. 10m (23) Move L across 'Bastress' to the steep orange wall (actually the R wall of The Flue). The original description mentions to take crack 'n ups... so have fun.

Up Catch 22 intil bolt on R can be clipped. Dive R for the catch, then layback the desperate flake to the arete and finish in the chimney.

Start: As for Catch 22.

Use pocket to get past the arch and then continue up to bulge (bolt). Pull through this (crux) and then ramble on to the top of the crag.

This is a complete sandbag - much harder than 22 and the bolt is rusted and looks rubbish.

Start: About 8m L of 'Boomer'.

A popular sport route (but you may wish to take some gear for the finish). Stepping left into Boomer for the first half is quite unavoidable.

Start below the orange wall near the highest point of the arch, and follow the line of fixed hangers.

Up the wall past some thin crux moves, finishing R of rooflet (which is a bit loose).

Start: 10m L of 'Fault Line' and 2 m R of hanging black rock a few metres off the ground.

The direct line up the clean wall, joining FL at the end of it's traverse. Perhaps add a few grades if you are under 5'9"?

From jug, head up wall to L end of roof. Struggle around this, move R and up thin crack (spaced pro).

Start: 5m L of 'Fault Line' is a large jug.

Bouldery start up arete leads to a steep flake.

Start: 2m R of 'Fault Line' is a hanging arete.

Companion line to 'Hidden Secrets'

Start: 4m R of 'Hidden Secrets'.

Another bouldery start, this one with little to no gear. Up wall then finish up seam just L of top crack on 'Crooked Mile'. Good luck.

Start: 4m L of small chimney.

Up CM to the break, then continue up black wall above. When it eases, move diagonally L to rap station.

Start: As for 'Crooked Mile'.

Climb straight up to the bolt on Blyth Street (after it's traverse), then continue to the top as for that. Do not fall.

Start: A few metres R of 'Rats Alley'.

Original start was to bridge up chimney then swing onto R face with no gear! For some reason these days people clip the bolt on Crystal Vision and go L to the flake - still a bit bold. Up flake till it ends and move L and up to an exciting exit. Walk R to rap from 'Tarantula' anchor.

Not the line with the carrot bolts just R of CA.

Up crack to bulge, step R into 'Voodoo' (at kink). Head up (tricky) and L into easy crack.

Start: 1m L of 'Voodoo' is a crack.

Overhanging L arete next to pitch 3 of Voodoo.

Start: Ledge after pitch 2 of 'Voodoo'.

You might get to smell it yourself if you fall off this one...

Start: 4m L of 'Sound Chaser'.

Up SC, then move R into seam (bolt).

Start: As for 'Sound Chaser'.

Up the wall and thin crack R of WOS to a bulge. Move R to shallow capped corner then exit L.

Some people just can't resist a new route.

Short line around left of the main face, at the right end of the side facing Grotto Wall. Hard finish.

Up and over hard bulge to ledge. Follow steep flake right to large jug. Dyno up left and up face.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Undercover Agent'

Avoids the last hard bit of Bent. It's thought that this finish might be where Bad P2 went (before the bolt!).

Climb the majority of Bent, until the point where that route steps left across the void; instead, go up the round arete on good edges past a bolt.

Considered by many to be the best 23 at 'Arapiles'.

Start where the dominant flake/line reaches the ground. Follow the line, except at halfway where you need to traverse L for a few metres below the flake before going up to rejoin it. Staying with the flake is reachy 25.