Routes in Australia for selected grade

The first closed seam left of the small cave. Hard moves lead to hole and jugs. Lurch left to finger crack with one more hard move at the top. 4 FHs. The top of the crack may need brushing after rain.

Start as for Doughboy. At jugs continue up the line to where the seam peters out. Head out R (crux) on tiny crimps and then up. 6 FHs.

Start as for Falcon's Lair, move left past the two scoops then up the face past 3 BRs to join Falcon's Lair.

6m left of Root Canal is a rippled face. Crank your pants off past 5 BRs.

Chipped line up the left steep face.

Traverse the big boulder behind "Jumpin" from R to L.

Sit start on sloped right hand edge and good left hand crimp directly below 'Hopeless Boulder Direct'. Big move to the seam. Follow 'Seams Hopeless' to top out.

Sit start and climb the blunt arete to the R of Headjams. Finish up the finger crack.

The R arete of the chimney at the rear of the Citadel. Stand start using sharp RH crimp on face (around head height) and left hand on thin sidepull (about 40cm lower) in chimney. Difficult moves lead to sloper and top out. (Sit start yet to be done...)

Sit-start on a big sloper on the boulder under the main roof. Climb the arete to finish matched in a pocket.

Sit-start just left of Bovine Nation on the sloping ledge. Traverse left to join Cowgirls and Indians.

Straight up the orange wall. Scary!

Straight up the orange wall. Scary!

Long moves on sharp crimps to small rail and good feet.

Blue holds

Orange holds

Pink(?) holds

Green holds

Blue holds

Orange holds

Panel 3 from right

Red holds

Desperate

Includes purple system hold.

Traverse the wall in either direction only using the bottom 5 blocks #traverse

Stand start using obvious crimp jugs. Dyno to the top of the bluestone bricks and top out over onto High st. Is probably harder than a 5 if your under 6ft.

Start at the missing block that looks like the number 9 as formed by the missing area. Traverse left using only the drill holes from the plug and feathers masonry technique, many of which are very small (5cm) then climb up to the bricks at the same ending point as the Bridge street masonry traverse.

Start at the missing 9 block then traverse right until you get both feet on the next missing block. Only use the masonry drill holes for the hands and any feet. Next project is to extend it to the following missing block (by linking up with the route Sort yourself out) but I couldn't work it out.

This is the reverse of the route "bon voyage" start at the low missing block then traverse to the left until you get to the missing block that's about 1 meter up from the ground. This is an elimination that uses only the drill holes for the hands (all feet are in).

This climb starts where Bon Voyage finishes. Stand start matching head height chip. Traverse right only using the mansonary drill holes. Once you reach massive foot jug, top out over onto High St.

Traverse the bluestone wall using ONLY the top row of stones. Easier if you use both holds and cracks (~25), and harder if you use only the slopers on top (~27). Difficulty is about the same regardless of which direction you traverse.

SDS Solid Purpose to the jug then dyno straight for the top.

SDS Face right of Solid Purpose. Big loose block wedge fallen out since climbed so grade uncertain now.

Stand start middle of the overhung wall, follow thin crimps and feet with good body tension, finish by touching the wall light.

Up past hole 2m right of Raisa. Two carrots.

Hard crimping up RHS of boulder to horizontal seam, then up.

The slick and rounded crack with a very thin start.

Right hand arete of main wall. Bouldery start on edges, up to hanging flake. 1 carrot for belay above on slab.

Very thin line up middle of orange wall, brushing past the tree after mid-height. 2 FH.

The prominent left-trending crack in the middle of the block. Up to horizontal and onwards through offwidth crack in cap-block.

2m right of Big Deal, up past the diagonal seams on techo crimps and a toothy mono.

Been a while; but traverse the lip to join the hanging arete. Slightly contrived.

Best problem here; although sit start is a bit bunched for some.

Start on Double Gaston Classic and reach right across into the first rail for High step to Glory and finish up that

Classic diagonal seam. Highball. Pebbles are solid; but does not get easier towards the top.

On the boulder in front of Tips Layback; Sit start on the rail at the lowest point. Move up to R before you can mantle over. Better (and harder) than it looks.

Face R of the arete from sit start. Heads R to the middle of the wall, then finishes up L of the capping block.

May be harder now than the FA. The spectacular steep arete L of Orpheus. Up the arete past 2 FHs, then hard moves up and R to jug and FH. Up the R face into the cave then L to the arete. Continue up the arete and finish up Chuck Solids. Rebolted with permission of the FA May 2022.

Steep and intense. Start 1m R of the base of the chimney (same as for The Razors Edge) Hard up to the 1st RB, and then slightly L past a 2nd RB before finishing up the top crack. Rebolted July 2022

Right wall of The Chuchu. Start as for Oona Poona past its first bolt. Instead of stepping left and up as for that climb, move up right to the dish and second bolt. From here continue diagonally up right past a third and onto the run out slab finishing as for The Shining (RB). Rebolted 2022

Worthwhile linkup connecting a couple of hard cruxes. Climb the first 2 bolts of The Razor's Edge, then traverse on good holds right until reaching the break below the crux bulge of Professor Everything, climbing its crux to the double ring bolt anchors.

Direct finish to Doctor of Everything. Start of for DOE follow it to the break (optional large Cam). Wrestle with a hard move or two leaving the break and up the steep slab to DBB.

Originally 24, it probably still is. A great pitch all the way, despite the 2 chipped holds. If they bother you, it should be possible to eliminate them.

Start: Start 2m L of Grimulace.

Hard moves getting past the first bolt

Rebolted 2012

2m right of Snail on a Razor blade with 2FH's. Some strenuous gastons lead to a thin crimp rail.

Tall, committing moves, but great sequence on actual holds.

Start as for 'Redex Irlont Sudano' then continue straight up when Redex goes Right. Continue up the very thin face to the crack and loweroff. Started life as a 24, some holds fell off, given 25, lost some more…… and is now very thin. Rebolted May 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria

Direct start to Redex up the slab past a bolt and through the bulge. Tricky move to reach the flake and 3rd bolt, then small crimps and bouldery moves to join Redex at the jug. Keep it together up the rest of Redex.

Start from cave 3m R of 'Veni Vedi Vici'.

Up face then R to ledge. Up the arete. Stick clip first bolt and clip bolt of climb left if you want this to feel like a sport routes, otherwise bring gear.

Up the wall 5m R of 'Crispin's Crispian'. Bolts replaced December 2021.

Stand start with one or both hands on jug on Straining Rail. Finish as per that problem A few variants all in the V4 range. V5 if extended left via the Hull.

Absurd. Climb Stiff Upper Lip then climb the right 21 to the big furry break at 6m. Traverse easily right past the 20/21 and the 15s to gain the V3 traverse line as far as the last 21. Up that to finish. Would take some proper rope friggery... so might as well solo it.

A hard sit start with low undercling and crimp. If you can reach the good holds near lip from sit start then V4. From lip a few slopy moves to gain rib immediately right of tree and up to finish on jugs.

SDS matched on the lumpy jug. Edge and dish on the shield and then array of equally poor features above.

Alternately can start on jugs of the Inbetweener, traversing left to NE prow start holds to link with Underground Resistance at V6 (dotted line - aka Short Circuit).

Sit start just left of OTFs flake using edges. Stand start goes at V3.

Outrageous finish to Migration finishing direct above the scoop using a series of thin layaways and edges. Jugs left of scoop are out. High proud and not a good place to let go. With lots of pads and spotters its still only 60/40 that you won't get hurt. Anything less would almost certainly be costly. Can be approached from Out Too Far Direct SS at same grade or DOTLD at V6.

Left face of the gully above Leaky Bucket with the huge chockstone.

Low start at the narrow letterbox slots below and just right of the chockstone with feet on half inch edges. Up the thin overhanging face keeping right of the hanging block till feet are level with it. When they are step left to finish standing on the chockstone.

Carefully down climb the opposite face to descend. First climbed a few decades ago - needs a brush!

Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26.

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline', up to rest at 7m. R across wall to 4th bolt on Bop till You Drop. Slightly down and R to groove and up it join Broomstick. A better alternative is to climb diagonally up and right from BTYDs 4th bolt (more sustained, same grade).

If that’s not pumpy or wandery enough get a long rope and try Megatrexate 26... as per original to bewitched, but continue right via Voodoo People to jugs then a couple of hard moves to gain the OK holds halfway through the hard bit of wolf variant (FH). Climb it into the scoop, then right to finish up Boogie RHV. Requires lots of clips and an equally deranged second.

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder. Who changed this to 27? Tell em they're dreaming! May have been mistaken for the direct but the original was always (26).

Yet another linkup: Start on Bop, traverse into Satanic Verses like for Satan Said Dance, but instead of following Satanic Verses to the top, keep traversing up left from the largish sloper-sidepull ledge via Between Good And Evil, finishing on the Left Hand of Satan. Probably been done before? Nice homogeneous difficulty from start to top.

Start up Bop for 3 bolts, then move down and left into large pocket on SV. Finish up Satanic Verses Direct. Easier than SV original and HS original, but very nice. Traversing left higher (above the large pocket on SV) is an excellent and more sustained variant also at 26. A large nut can be placed after the last bolt if you don't like the run out to the top.

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder. Rebolted 2014.

Yep another LU, and it’s good with double crux. Start of Bop to third bolt (Bop crux), step right and diagonally up right (Metho crux) to high fourth bolt of Broomstick.

Another link up for when you have finished the rest. Climb Broomstick to jugs. Extend third bolt then traverse right to join the crux of HS original. Once through the difficulties finish as per Boogie RHV. More sustained than HS original. Could be closer to 27.

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP. Crux bolt replaced 2015 after the original glue in started to move!

Let's leave it at 25 and see what people think... And try not to fall off at end of crux which could be bad for your ankles. Contrived but fun climbing up underside of arête of red wall left of limbo. Start at rightmost RB them left past 4 more to chain anchor. Stay below lip throughout. At last bolt avoid the temptation to follow holds up right and make a few more moves up overhung left face (crux) to mantle.

Up IO, clip 2nd FH with long sling then truck left below the lip as per MOW.

Start as for Boogers but instead of moving right muscle up through runnel gastoning slopes either side.

SDS Direct start to Big John avoiding the large starting holds of Tempest. Instead use a gaston edge for the left hand and thin sidepull with thumb catch for the right. The move is about 12 inches but still tougher and more technical than the other 4s down here. V5.

The half traverse...SDS in middle of wall. RH on vertical sidepull, LH on good crimp jug. Up to slot, match and across left into and up 8 Ball...very cool

Pointless eliminate. Sit start on tree with pinches and edges on rib of arete only (as per toddler marked topo!)

Start with LH on obvious jug, RH low on arete. Up arete then tough move or two to rock back onto face. Up.

Stand start in a elevator door move (two gastons). Think 'stick' and throw up to the jugs and top out.

The green block to the left is out.

Start standing up into the sloping scoop. Grab the tiny crimps and learn to fly.

Stand-start and reach a small positive edge using crimps. From here, better holds lead to a big move to a large blob, and then the top.

Stand-start. Climb directly up the scoop, and then head out left via a small crimp on the face. From here, finish direct.

Sit-start using the undercut with the right hand. Lean a long way leftwards to use a pinch on the diagonal crack. Use this to cross over for a crimp above with the right hand before topping out on the far left arete. Stretchy and powerful

Sit-start and make a big move left to a crimp around the side of the bloc. Use this to rearrange your feet to allow a direct finish up the left-hand arête. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade.

Jump for the small slanting sidepull on the arete with your right hand. Get established on the large rail above before topping out over the upper arete

Sitstart and climb the beautiful arete on its left hand side to a mantle.

High stand-start left of Maverick and climb the crack/wall using the vague arete to the right.

Climb the crack which fades out at the top.

A lovely delicate climb...can you find the crucial crimp?