Routes in Victoria for selected grade

Start as for Pinch Arete, traverse R across Jump to Jug to scoop and undercling, then up employing a good spotter and an accurately placed mat for the final moves

This route was previously known as The Sean Myles Project and bolted in around '92 by its English namesake. Like a woody problem on classic Arapilisian bums through a steep wall to finish up crimpy headwall. Start at base of roof left of Aristocrat (clip the 3 dynas with single biners for ease of climbing, and to keep rope away from holds). Slappy compression leads to base of seam. Clip bolt at lip and head straight up via pulls between edges and last bolt to easy finish and single bolt lower-off.

Takes the right-trending line via the odd pocket just left of 'Epsilon Crack'.

The imposing face across to the right from PP. Stand start with high crimp. Up to the two bad pinches, then punch up to the lip. Finish on good holds out left.

Upper Cave.

Links 'Fog' into 'Dead Heat'.

Upper Cave.

Rumoured to be a total classic at the grade - and it looks like it too. Sit-start left of 'I Feel So Holy' and motor up through the pockety featers on the steep wall to the big slopey break. Shuffle rightwards to a high-ish topout.

Middle Cave. 2016 guidebook grade

Sit start on slopey rail.

Extension to Kundalini. Adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final jump to the ledge.

a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. Mortal Combat. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of Venom. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor".

Resides on the walk-in track to 'Spurt Wall' - just before the 'tunnel' (beneath the 'Taipan' route 'Invisible Fist').

Only one of the moves on this 14 move roof traverse is hard. Unfortunately all the rest require exactly the same muscles, ensuring a month long bicep ache. Fred Nicole didn't do it! Can you?

A more direct line into When We Were Kings, starting further to the right.

Start off big flake, out to undercling and huge move to pocket. Finish as for When We Were Kings.

Listed as a project (#19) in the 2016 guide. Sit start on chossy looking jugs 2m right of Big Buck Hunter, up direct into the finish holds of When We Were Kings.

~8m to the right of Zeus, start on the block with the odd pinch inside. Out left to shallow pocket, big lockoff to sidepulls and finish directly above on flat edge.

Old Klem Loskot project which was expected to be the hardest dyno in Australia; the FA went to Nalle Hukkataival and its status as hardest dyno may have been subsumed by a few hard problems Nalle put up in Buandik, 'Massive Dynamic' and 'Pigeon Superstition' at the Citadel.

A huge, technical dyno starting from a sit-start, then up to the big sloper and higher crimp - then the sharp lip jug. The hardest dyno in Australia?

Start on Strammamax and into Endamax. Traverse into and finish on Lost for Life

Very solid; as shown by Fred Nicole in the classic EOS2 video (or more recently by James Litz in Dosage 3).

Sit-start from a poor RH undercling and an incut LH 'pocket' - massive span move out right to the arete of 'Nice Max' - then finish as for this problem. Positive ape-index recommended!

Possibly the traverse completed by Dai Koyamada - starting from the V2 start hold - then traversing right to the finish of 'Mad Max' - unconfirmed.

Heads straight up just right of the start of Sultans of Swing. Pending details.

Sit-start at a small, slopey undercling with not much for feet.

The line 1m right of Feverish starting at the good pocket. Make tenuous moves up slopey rails to a high top out.

Start left of the V4 problem on a good gaston and take a left-trending line past the mono to topout. Has seen an impressive flash ascent by James Litz (US). Originally given V13 by Sharik as the mono didn't exist and he did horrible moves crimping the very edge of the same hold.

Dynoing from the crack directly to the top is 'Forced Entry Direct' (V11)

Dai Koyamada's addition to Andersens. Sit start matched on the left facing flake. Move up the wall and jump like mad to the lip.

Stand start to Peter Parker.

Sit start on the low rail and move up a series of dimples and slopers to crimps and jugs at the top. Hard for the grade - James didn't want it to be downgraded.

Sit start on good side pull and small crimp, up through crimps before veering left as the landing falls away.

Stand start on crimps, use arete to throw for good edge.

Sit start on underclings below the white rail 2m left of the start of STMB. Climb to a slopey pocket and underclings to make a big move gaining the slopey pinch of STMB and finish as for this problem.

A big link up. Sit-start as for 'A horse is a horse', then traverse right all the way into the start of 'The Nevin Rule'. Finish up this problem. Route grade of 32.

The final chapter... Start as for 'Spanking the Monkeybars', reverse 'A Horse is a Horse', then finish as for 'The Weill of Fortune'. Route grade of 33.

Sit start on two edges under the rooflet. Reach out to slopers and crimps and make a press out left to the pocket. Big reaches back right gain the big high flake and finish as for The Nevin Rule.

Start underclinging the left side of the scoop feature (just left of the start of The Nevin Rule). Move up to LH incut crimp via tricky kneebars and underclings, gaston edges to meet The Nevin Rule at the high pinch. Finish as for The Nevin Rule.

Start as for 'Passion' then traverse all the way across the crux of Klapusterperle, through the start of 'Bitch Slap' and finish as for 'Winterkirsch'. Has also been done by finishing up 'Bitch Slap' (Sharik Walker) at no change in grade.

Start on the large jug in the darkest depths of the cave - (the finish of X-Treme Cool) and head out to the jug at the start of Cave Man

Starts on the two 'rails' - at the finish of Cave Man - then climbs out via the famous 'pinch' hold into a gaston crux (the pinch hold of Rave Heart) finishing as for Wimmel Friedhoff.

Link Body Eater into 'Ogre Thumb'

X-Treme cool into 'Desire'

Link 'Easy Does It' into 'Sleepy Hollow'

Starts up 'Extended World' V10, drops down into Wimmel Friedhof V5 and then finishes up 'Gastonia' V8

Takes an extreme line to the right of Cave Man, climbing into that problem's finish.

Sit start on small side pull edges then up with difficulty compressing heinous slopers on the awesome prow/arete (slightly left of line in printed guide)

Just left of the right end of the boulder is a scaly purple streak. Climb dimples to the shallow pocket, from where you make a big move left, finishing up the scoop.

The beautiful cracked face is deceptively hard. From the stand start climb the face past a very hard deadpoint.

On the downhill side of the boulder, from far right traverse leftwards using the obvious sloping crack accross the overhanging wall and topout frighteningly at the tallest point of the face. Mega

Start as for The Quickening, head right through crimps from the jug.

Sit start on left-hand side of boulder, moving right through undercling and various pinches, finishing with a desperate and bare top-out. Good idea to suss the finish before getting there.

Sit on arete and traverse up and left into Kant Touch This

Start in the far left of the cave and work your way right before finishing up Cold Hands.

Hard climbing with a powerful and shouldery crux.

Easy climbing leads to a couple of hard moves on slopey holds.

Easy climbing to a dynamic and reachy section through a blank looking roof. Cut loose and prosper.

There you have it... the main event. LDWT into DIM. Epic.

SDS low in the cave. Crimp and compress your way up and left on the impressive nose, to better holds over the bulge.

The ten-year project finally goes down! Embers takes the obvious hanging arete from a stand-start. Left hand on the arete with a crystal thumb catch and right hand on the undercling. A powerful move on poor feet allows you to gain the small crimp. From here another hard move gets you established on easier ground. Continue up the right side of the arete all the way (don't rock around onto the left slab).

Into the bush about 100m left of the Skittle boulder.