Routes in Oceania for selected grade

The deep crack.

Start 20m right of Melville's Cave.

The crack with a hard start.

Start at the right side of the grey wall.

The wall between 'Cartridge Arete' and 'Cartridge Chimney'.

The chimney.

Start: Just R of 'Cartridge Arete'.

The steep orange corner facing L.

Start 0.5m R of OC.

The chimney on the south-west side of the outcrop.

The scrubby corner.

The line.

Start around R from 'Castration', on the wall facing The Pines, at the initial.

This was originally called Sage but as there is already a real climb of that name at Arapiles it has been altered.

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. 4 metres right of the overhang, follow crack to the right of hanging boulder, finish up to gap in blocks. Scramble off to right.

The line starting just left of Charity

Ramble up the low angled buttress.

Start: Start at the next buttress R from T.

Up low angled face 2m right of 'Dignity' to summit.

Up right side of big block on slabby terrace. Step right at bulge.

3m right of SS, Slab to weakness. Trend left up slabby rib and bulgy crack then juggy bulge.

Involves a rubber chicken. On the side facing Cecilia, climb low angled, juggy crack on left.

The challenge of this old route, should you choose to accept it, is working out where it goes.

Start as for 'Radish'.

1. 36m (5) Up the easy corner and then traverse right around the buttress to the next line. Up this, or face on left to next ledge.

2. 24m (5) Climb short corner then step left and traverse left below overhangs to belay.

3. 15m (5) Traverse left again under bulge and up through weakness(this is probably a few metres left of the second pitch of Shaggy's Route) to a ledge level with the Eagle's Nest, a prominent nose of rock to the right. Now left and up again to the next ledge.

4. 15m (5) Up wall to a huge ledge with buttresses rising on both sides.

5. 30m (5) Up by the lefthand buttress, The Belvedere, and up to join 'Syrinx'. Scramble off right.

"The holds just keep on appearing" Follow the obvious left-leaning diagonal rib to the arete then up.

Exit the key hole and climb down past rappel station, sticking to easy terrain.

Easy chimney immediately right of "Cranky Babies", finishing up right wall.

Start up the South Pacific corner, then take the right-hand line past an unusual rock crypt.

Start at the left hand of two corners where the two walls on the terrace meet, a couple of metres right of "Young, Old and Amputees". The corner.

Walk through to the back of the gully where the floor ends at an edge. Up into a scoop in the right wall, then rightwards up ramp and corner. Exit left to belay on boulder ledge. Be wary of the rock. Descent: scramble through (suggest staying roped up) to the rap chains above Fly By Night.

An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world

Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.

1. 43m 3 step onto ridge and up

2. 27m 5 up and over pinnacle

3. 20m 4 up wall to big ledge on right

4. 30m 5 head on up

"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinary trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.

1. 30m (5) Up easy slab to rock rib just right of corner. Belay in gap between main face and small pinnacle.

2. 10m (1) Wander across left to a stance closer to the corner where the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress meets the main face.

3. 50m (6) 'Excellent' climbing up the corner to the notch behind the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle.

4. 50m (4) Finish up the last 2 pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'.

The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed.

Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree.

2. 40m (2) Up the easy face left of the scrubby gully to large ledge.

3. 35m (5) Directly up face until about 8 metres below the Eagle's Eyrie (prominent cave). Traverse 8m metres left, passing under roof and up to ledge level with the Eagle's Eyrie. Climbing direct to the Eagle's Eyrie and then traversing left is grade 10

4. 35m (4) Step left and up chimney right of 'Tiptoe Ridge', joining that route near the top.

Not really a climb, just an escape route. The diagonal ramp leading right from the base of the 'Siren' corner.

Botanical line behind large dead tree at right end of 'Rotten Row'.

Chimney line 6 metres right of 'Tschumpel'

Pleasant access route to the big terrace.

Blunt, slabby arete starting 10 metres right of Beau Geste.

Follow arete all the way to top.

Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete.

Pleasant easy climb up a great line. Left facing stepped corner left of the bulging wall with Lou and Evelyn.

Originally "About a Fat Wench from Normandy, who Pretended to Have a 'Snake' in Her Belly". Hard to believe he was the father of modern surgery, isn't it?

Start: Start: On top of large boulder leaning against wall 2m left of 'Mermaid Avenue' and also looks ok.

You know what to do.

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Poles Apart' at another line of cracks.

Huge old-fashioned chimney.

Pad up the centre of the lovely clean slab left of Silver Bullet.

A quirky ramble that is very enjoyable. There was a serious accident on this climb a couple of years back, showing that a lapse of concentration can get you hurt anywhere. Start at the foot of the chimney-gully.

1. 32m (4) Climb diagonally rightwards up the easy wall to large ledge.

2. 13m (6) Scramble 5 metres to next ledge and take vague corner-weakness 4 metres right of arete to summit. This summit has also been reached by the wall on the opposite side of the block, from within the chimney; much harder and not recommended.

3. 15m (6) Downclimb from summit, step across chimney then up wall to main summit.

A good climb for beginners to follow as protection is limited. Start 2 metres left of V-corner of Pete Made Us Do It.

Done Exodus and Cloaca and looking for another easy route? Below the Mason's Apron (left of Exodus) is a short pinnacle. This climbs the tallest part of the outside face.

An awesome climb if you're not a fan of exposure. 1) 23m (6) Start on exodus for 16m and then head up the sloping belay ledge on L. 2) 15m (2) Up the corner then traverse R then straight up.

Delightful. Start just right of a detached little pinnacle and just left of Edgell Gerber at a shallow corner.

Up the obvious crack for a few metres, step left and follow the main, slightly recessed line on the left side of the wall.

Start: Start as for 'The Atlantic Wall'.

Start 3m left of the right-side of the slab, 4 metres right of 'First Noel' at a broken crack in a very small left facing corner.

The right hand rib of the chimney.

Obvious crack line at E./ left end of cliff. Left of scrubby descent gully

Crack/ corner right of scrubby descent gully, left of FH's. Start 1m. left of 2FH's. Bridge between crack & sidewall, exit through V brake at top of crack.

3m. right of K. the arête. use boulder to gain arête, move up this to jugs and over top. belay from top of K.

Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle.

First shallow corner right of S.G., Pull up into knobbly corner & work your way up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge & continue up bridging corner, some holds brittle.

The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'.

Beware of falling newspapers? A true cliff-splitter.The chimney that splits the tier R of the overhangs.

Traverse the diagonal crack/ledge. Start below Nuclear Error, follow crack up and right, step on to the small roof and continue along ledge to top. Bring lots of slings. Rapel off Alpha Decay.

Up the crack on the arete.

Start: Start at the arete R of GitP.

Gross black chimney.

Start: The chimney just R of the 'Jug City' diagonal.

Start: Start from the ground, 13m L of 'Handles'.

1. 15m (5) Juggy gutter to large ledge.

2. 15m (5) The juggy face left of 'Silk Purse', move R towards the top.

2m R of Momentary etc. Up to the scoop, then up.

6m right of Brain Damage. Up the right side of the overhang then straight up.

5m right of Drop Tail

3m right of Two Fern. Crack.

Hardly worth recording. Possibly climbed by a touron in the dim dark past.

Start: Start at the right hand end of 'Red Wall' about 20m right of Vandles. 'Obvious' scoop in grey rock with huge jugs. Follow scoop to top.

Start at the obvious cleft at the left end. Bridge up and follow the weakness through to the top.

Start as for Shadow Streak. Go left up the easy ramp and through the overhang to the top.

Val's First Lead. The obvious narrow chimney on the north facing wall of the cliff.

Walk R across the ledge at the top of V8s and then behind the native pines. Up the slab to the top.

9m right of AA and 4m left of gully. Initialled

Start at large flake on cliff about 50m left of water (water? What water?). Wall to right side of flake, then chimney.

Pull up and climb the face to a ledge. Step left and pull up on a small nose. Traverse up left into a chimney which goes to the top.

Start: Start 5 metres left of 'Easter Wall'. (? initialled)