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Ethic inherited from Valle Orco
New route potential
Well established
Renowned for its incredible crack systems, there is a predominantly clean climbing ethic in Valle Orco.
- Bolts
- are often placed for anchors & abseils, but are otherwise strongly discouraged where natural protection can be placed.
Even so, there are a fair number of sport/bolted climbs in the valley. Talk to local climbers/guides before considering putting in bolts, bolts are permanent.
Some classics crack climbs, bolted in mania of sport climbing in the 80's/90's, have since had their bolts removed.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): P. Seimandi
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9788894526516
A selective guidebook describing over 100 of the best crack climbs in the Orco Valley ranging in difficulty from F4c through to F8b, and from 6m to 160m long.
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Author(s): P. Seimandi
Date: 2020
100 selected crack climbs from completely drilled through to completely self belaying, from 6 m to 160 m.
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Author(s): M. Oviglia
Date: 2010
This climbing guide describes climbing gardens close to the valley as well as the well-known alpine walls of the Sergent, Caporal and at the Colle del Nivolet.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Sat 27 May
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