Routen in Africa

Follow the arête to the right of the face containing Waterspout. The route starts steeply, but eases off considerably after the second bolt.

Immediately to the right of Spin-Arete, follow the line of bolts up the centre of the small face. Shares the fourth bolt with Damhan-Allaidh and ends at the top anchors of Spin-Arete.

Climb the arete immediately to the right of Gossamer, following the line of bolts. Shares the fourth bolt with Gossamer and ends at Spin-Arete's chains.

Climb the obvious crack about 2m to the left of Craic, trending left at the top to the top-anchors of Spin-Aréte.

The climb starts on the opposite side of the buttress from Waterspout. Walk around the buttress, in the direction of the river, and the climb is in the back of an open book. Climb the obvious crack in the bushy corner, ending in a notch on top of the buttress. Waterspout's top anchors can be used for a belay, but are not well placed to be used for top-roping.

Start to the right of Craic, climbing the easy bulgy face into a short open book. Exit left onto a ramp and scramble up to the tree above Incy Wincy Spider.

Between Wingnut and Deon's Dihedral is a large vertical gulley. Start from the right and awkwardly enter the large vertical crack. The crack widens considerably after a couple of meters. Climb up to a roof, passing this on the right. Follow the open book above to the top to two fixed stainless steel staples.

When traversing onto Fig Face from Bramblegate Gulley, you will see an obvious large dihedral. The route ascends this to a pair of stainless steel staples. Scramble up some roots to a wide ledge. Follow the dihedral past a bulge on the right(crux) and then straight to the top. Note that the staples aren placed on the top of the crag - threading them results in an excessive amount of rope drag or jamming of the rope. Descend by abseiling of the anchors of Silence of the Lambchops in Bramblegate Gulley or walking off into the gulley.

This climb follows the north-eastern arete of the free-standing pinnacle to the left of Real Regal Eagle.

On the rock face to your left as you pass through the mouth of Bramblegate Gulley, a north west facing dark orange open book to the right of a tall tree. Climb the dihedral crack starting on a ledge staying in the corner, take the most direct line, find ring anchors on a comfortable ledge just below the perched boulder atop the pillar.

5m right of Real Regal Eagle head up a broken crack system on a series of fins. An exciting lead.

Go up the large break tending leftward away from the central tree, when you get to a thick vine climb straight up on the right hand side of it.

On the south eastern facing wall of the gulley, Take the break where the furthest left hand roots of the central tree reach. Staying in the broken crack system passing the jagged 'teeth'

On the right hand wall of the gulley. Climb up the roots on the left of the large tree, head directly up a few meters veering slightly right. Continue up to the stance.

Climb the arete on the eastern side of entrance to the gully (true left). The route tends to the right, following the arete. There is a fair amount of rope drag - probably best to belay from the top. Anchors are hangers, placed horizontally on the top of the crag - take along slings to extend these over the edge. Either walk off to the north or abseil from Silence of the Lambchops's rings.

Starts to the right of Puffin. Belay from tree at bottom.

P1: 19 P2: 16

Start 5m right of 'Restoration'- small tree at start.

1. [17] 20m

   A2 Climb the steep broken rock above a small tree to below small recessed corner with a sloping overhang. Climb out diagonally left (A2). Continue up the face and exit onto a ledge.

2. [13] 18m

   Continue up a crack in a face above to easier ground.

3m right of the grey slab of 'One-eyed Jack' is a buttress.

1. 35m 13 Climb up a break 2m left of the edge of the buttress (at approximately 8m is the crux.) Straddle up and move diagonally right crossing a shallow recess. Continue across sloping rock. Move up and left around a corner to a recess then up easy ground to top.

Note: Sparsely protected.

Starts on right-hand side of a grey slab in a recess, right of 'One-eyed Jack'.

1. 15m 10 Climb right-hand side of grey slab to ledge. Belay in corner as for ONE-EYED JACK

2. 20m 11 Traverse right across a face to a recess and a crack system (two small trees). Climb the right-hand crack and face to the top.

Start in the centre of the grey slab mentioned in 'Rudolph'.

1. 18m 10 Climb the centre of the grey slab, moving diagonally right to a ledge belay in right-hand corner.

2. 25m 15 Continue up the crack in the corner to top and easy rock.

Start 15m right of 'Opuntia' on a grey slab.

1. 23m 13 Climb the left-hand side of the slab to a ledge. Move left and climb up to the base of a short crack in a corner with a tree at the top.

2. 20m 13 Continue up the crack passing the tree and on to a system of cracks above. Continue to easy ground.

Situated 35m to the right of the meeting place (at descent gully).

1. 25m 15 Start at the base of the first buttress. The first 3m is the crux. Move up onto the face and semi-mantelshelf moving to the right. Continue diagonally left and up the arete. Climb moving right and then up to a good ledge and tree. (An alternative start can be made by climbing a recess to left and slightly higher - 10)

2. 20m 10 Traverse left for 4m and up to a recess with a tree projecting out. Continue up the recess to the top.

Start climb at high point 30m left of meeting place at an obvious black chimney with prominent small tree 10m up.

1. [11] 35m

   Ascend 10m to tree, then climb over bulge. Traverse left for 6m then move straight small corner to stance.

2. [9] 30m

   Climb up vertical wall above on good holds.

This climb ascends a recess / crack to the right of 'Penny's Error'.

1. 15m 13 Climb the recess to a ledge.

2. 15m 11 Climb non-de script rock to top of crag.

Goes up prominent corner recess to left of a cave 30m east of 'Cave Crag'. Follows recess to two-thirds of height, crosses to face on right then straight upward.

The start of this climb may be located by reference to three caves near the base of the rook and spaced about 30m apart. The route commences about 9m to the left of the most westerly of these three caves, in a small recess, and is marked by a beacon at ground level. The starting point is actually on a broad grass ledge which is reached by clambering over a rocky slope at the bottom of the krantz. Between the starting point and the cave on the right there is a natural feature on the rock having the appearance of an inverted broad arrow chiselled into the rock. This is greenish-yellow in colour.

1. 18m 9 From the beacon work up in the recess towards the left then traverse right over the top of the recess, thence upwards to the right towards the crack immediately above the cave. This crack is covered with aloes and a stance on a small ledge is found on the edge of these aloes almost in the crack.

2. 18m 11 From the stance in the crack step to left thence vertically upwards over good sound rock to a large sloping ledge.

3. 18m 8 This section is obvious and a number of easy alternatives present themselves. The most vertical is the best.

4. 25m 8 Work up to the final rock slope on the right or left of an overhanging rock immediately above the 'cave crack'.

Note: The rock is sound and holds good. The first stance can accommodate two people only with comfort. Top section is disappointing after the first two pitches.

Starts about 9m to left of 'Cave Crag' and just on right of a small ridge below slightly overhanging rocks.

1. 34m 13 Move 5m up on very firm, smooth rock to a slight overhang. Traverse a short but difficult section 2 ½ m to the right to avoid the overhang then up 2m. Traverse to the left to a point immediately above the start of the climb then straight up for about 15m to an impassable zone of smooth rock. At this point traverse right for 5m to a clearly visible stance made by a boulder (slightly loose) sticking out of the main body of the krantz. A better and wider stance is found 3m further up.

2. 30m 9 From upper stance traverse a few meters left to a rock ridge which is followed to summit.

Start about 10m left of 'Carmen Crag' and about 3m to the right of a prominent recess.

1. 25m 15 Climb face and move through overhanging bulge to face above. Climb diagonally right, surmount the next overhang and then continue to stance on ledge below a prominent slab face.

2. 25m 11 Climb the slab face and then continue to the top along the pleasant arete that extends from the top of the face.

Starts in bush-covered scree opposite a 'Cabbage Tree' on the slope and about 20m to 30m to left of 'Carmen Crag'. Start at a flake of rock below a sloping face to left of a crack.

1. 22m 9 Move up 6m on left of crack, traverse right over top of crack to point above aloe. Traverse further right (4 – 6m) round a corner and up a few meters to a stance on a ledge which can hold four people.

2. 15m 11 Straight up recess to a large grassy ledge. Immediately above this ledge on right is a sheer smooth face.

3. 22m 13 Straight up to left of smooth face to a point below an overhanging block. Traverse right below the overhang then step down and across to right in a delicate movement leading to easier rock, round the overhang and back to left to stance above overhang.

4. 22m 7 Straight up to summit ridge.

Variation: 3 22m 8 Step down from grass ledge and traverse to right to edge of smooth face then up on right of smooth face to easier rock joining up with first route to right of overhang.

Commences some 5m left of the start of 'Hammer Route' at base of sloping slabs.

1. 20m 13 Climb easily up slabs to corner crack where wall steepens. Semi-layback up crack past aloe to belay on large dirty ledge.

2. 25m 13 Climb up in corner to overhang, then diagonally right following overhang. Traverse right 3m then up steep wall to small ledge. Cross aloes on right and climb easily to ledge. Chock belay low in horizontal crack.

3. 35m 9 Ascend easily up small arete then more easily still to top of krantz.