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Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Whalestooth Area | |||||
21 | ★ Tiger Snake
S-shaped flake on short overhanging wall on large boulder in center of Whalestooth area. Access via Natural bridge and Orca sectors. Climb starts virtually at sea level however is protected from waves by Mousetrap boulder. Still, only climb on very low seas. Always be aware of King waves. Erstbegehung: Andreas Roilo, 1989 | 7m | |||
21 | Mousetrap
Diagonal corner crack on boulder that protrudes out from the ocean. Getting off the boulder is not easy and is part of the climb. Only climb on very calm days and always be aware of King waves. Erstbegehung: Andreas Roilo & Tom von Burg, 1990 | 8m | |||
10 | ★ Southern Comfort
| 12m | |||
14 | ★ Black Russian
| 12m | |||
19 | ★ Sabretooth
Sabretooth 13m 19* Start as for ‘Whalestooth’ then follow the twin parallel cracks branching right halfway up (the cracks above ‘Thinker Skinner’) and top out once you can reach the ledge. Nice lay-backing with an unsuspecting crux. Jonas Hollingworth – Apr 14 https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-route-at-albany-and-west-cape-howe/ | 13m | |||
15 | ★ Whalestooth
| 13m | |||
18 | ★★★ Thinker Skinker
| 14m | |||
15 | ★ The Plank
| 15m | |||
18 | My Bent Friends
| 10m | |||
Orca Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Dolphin
Erstbegehung: Tim MaCartney-Snape, 1985 | 14m | |||
10 | South Coast Dogma
Erstbegehung: G.Brammer & T.Bradshaw, 1973 | 14m | |||
18 | ★★ Flaked In
Erstbegehung: Mike Smith & Richard Rathbone, 1978 | 14m | |||
24 | ★★ Orca
Start on slightly overhanging lay-back crack (the belly of the 'diving killer whale'). When crack peters out, cross short face section diagonally left (crux) towards shallow corner crack. Top out on this. Erstbegehung: Andreas Roilo, 1990 | 9m | |||
21 | ★ Bronze Whaler in Memoriam
Start one meter right of 'Orca'. Up crack to small no-hand-rest at the arrowhead ('fin'). Traverse left (crux) to shallow corner crack and climb out as for Orca. Note: There are two variations as to how crux can be climbed - a low traverse (as in FA) and a high traverse. Both options are of similar difficulty. Erstbegehung: Andreas Roilo, 1988 | 14m | |||
9 | Skinny
Erstbegehung: J.Remynse, 1973 | 10m | |||
4 | ★★★ Fat
Erstbegehung: V.Delgado, 1973 | 10m | |||
6 | Gangway
Erstbegehung: V.Delgado & J.Remynse, 1973 | 25m | |||
20 | ★ Flake
Erstbegehung: unknown | 10m | |||
20 | ★★ Mondo Trasho
Erstbegehung: M.Colyvan & G.Pritchard, 1983 | 12m | |||
20 | ★ Multiple Maniacs
Erstbegehung: M.Colyvan & G.Pritchard, 1983 | 10m | |||
The Bowl Area | |||||
16 | ★★ R.I.P. Corner
| 10m | |||
7 | Periscope
| 14m | |||
9 | Warren
| 10m | |||
14 | Firecat
| 12m | |||
23 | ★★★ Softly Softly
| 12m | |||
20 | ★ Flaked Out
| 12m | |||
8 | ★ Flintstone
| 10m | |||
24 | ★★★ Don't Petal Me
| 12m | |||
16 | Custom Belay Left-hand Finish
| 12m | |||
14 | Custom Belay
| 12m | |||
8 | Don't Look Down
| 7m | |||
18 | ★★ Purple Haze
| 10m | |||
16 | Clochemerle Indirect
'South Coast Rock': "The bottomless corner/crack. Abseil to a hanging belay, then climb the corner direct to the top" 'The Guide': "Climbs the southern inside corner of the Natural Bridge. Abseil to a hanging belay. Straight up the corner" Erstbegehung: Lowe, Gibbs & Rathbone, 1986 | 10m | |||
16 | Off The Deck
"The Guide" 2nd Ed: "The hanging corner [20m R of Purple Haze] which drops into the wave washed platform at the NE corner of the rock bridge itself. Abseil to a hanging belay. The Crack." Erstbegehung: H. Butler & P. Hooper, 1989 | 10m | |||
Amityville Area | |||||
19 | Mother of Meat
The crack and corner to the left of the gully. Awkward off-width moves to finish. Erstbegehung: M.Colyvan & G.Pritchard, 1983 | 22m | |||
20 | ★★ The Amityville Horror
Erstbegehung: M.Colyvan & G.Pritchard, 1983 | 22m | |||
19 | ★★★ Over Indulgence
Rap to large belay edge. Start on left side of ledge (very strenuous) Climb left facing flakes. Erstbegehung: M.Colyvan & G.Pritchard, 1983 | 16m | |||
21 | ★★★ Noosa
Same start as 'One Step Beyond' but at half way mark continue straight using a series of flakes on left side of arete. Erstbegehung: Andreas Roilo & K.Bennet, 1991 | 12m | |||
14 | ★ One Step Beyond
Climb starts on same large ledge as Over Indulgence but on the opposite side. Climb crack for 6 meters then step to right around arete and continue up hand crack to top. Erstbegehung: M.Colyvan & G.Pritchard, 1983 | 16m | |||
Surf's Up Wall | |||||
17 | Pipeline
The right side of the arete that forms the boundary between Amityville Area and Surfs Up Wall. Start from 'ground level' (ie wave washed platform only on very calm days and low tide), else from good ledge about 6m up. Erstbegehung: unknown | 22m | |||
15 | ★★★ Surf's Up
Build belay on right side of boulder, facing east, about 3m from arête, and rap down to sea-level ledge. It is advisable to build an anchor. Climb crack 3m right of arête. Erstbegehung: K.Carrigan & R.Rathbone, 1986 | 22m | |||
14 | ★ Curl Curl
The thin crack 2m to the right of Surf's Up. Erstbegehung: unknown | 20m | |||
13 | Dumper
The obvious crack 3m left of corner. Erstbegehung: R.Davidson & Andreas Roilo, 1990 | 17m | |||
13 | Welsh Corner
Climb the corner and finish up on crack to the left. Erstbegehung: B.Campbell & M.Campbell, 1990 | 19m | |||
20 | ★ Val Halla
Start at the arete on the right of the wall (as for Ivory Tower). Follow flakes up and left to eedge, then layback the obvious flake/ crack to top (crux). (Note: fixed rope was used as protection of crux on first ascent). Erstbegehung: K.Bennet & D.Moon, 1991 | 25m | |||
23 | ★★★ Ivory Tower
A powerful line capturing the full atmosphere of the Gap. Start on same wave-washed ledge as for Welsh corner or two meters up on hanging belay. Climb the right trending lay-back flake which turns into a corner crack that in turn leads over a 1.5m roof(crux). The elephant tusk 4m above the roof offers a good no-hand rest necessary to tackle the spicy finish - a 7m off-width body crack. Erstbegehung: Andreas Roilo, 1990 | 25m |
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