Begehungen von Disco Non-Stop Party als Red point

A lifetime route. Taking the whip off the crux definitely gives this climb full value.

Saved this one for the onsight, I let Rick rap down the fix line first and I took off the draws he needed to reach belay station on my way down trying not to look too much. Unfortunately fell off at second draw, rookie mistake... lowered and climbed the whole thing in an ascent very close to an onsight. Very happy with my effort, I found this climb mentally challenging but pushed through uncertainty and kept on marching. Absolutely fantastic climb and an ascent forging mental strength and lifetime memories. Just another great day out with my mate Rick!

Having taken full value of the generous dry spell we've had since November, I've spent the last few months canyoning, scary new-routing, refining the perfect spaghetti carbonara (no cream!!!) and generally using every excuse to avoid trying hard.

Now that I'm adequately stuffed with pasta, it's probably time to climb some hard things again.

so much exposure so much fun

Got reacquainted with the holds and spiders on the rap in. Happy to tick this one off the fridge list

5 new bolts, 10m of new climbing, and a flawed masterpiece is renewed as a perfect gem. I would argue that this is THE best mid-20's arête in the mountains, with great rock, incredible exposure, and intense, sustained arête-ing. 2nd shot today after the muggy total-whiteout that started the day. So many complex, tenuous sequences and I almost botched one right in the middle when I completely forgot how to do it. The upper section is relatively easy (22?) but really steep and super pumpy. Absolutely brilliant.