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Eintrag
Theory of Negativity Wall

There is NO pubic toilet at the carpark, and the surrounding bush is already suffering from overuse as a bush toilet and tourist rubbish dump (the nearby residents don’t like people literally crapping in their backyards). The nearest public toilet is on the Leura Mall. There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.

Pink Falloyd (Project)

Sandy flake and roof crack 7m right of Lead Zeppelin that goes up and out and out and out. Macca has freed up to the roof crack above the ledge about 8m up, and reckons the whole thing would be good at about M3 or free climb at about 20ish? to the ledge and hard 23? through the roof crack. Small, small to medium cams and wires.

17 Lead Zepplin

Finally some better rock! A good first pitch up a major line but degenerates further up on the black slabs.

Start: Marked LZ

  1. 23m (17) A steep corner crack past some greenery then cranks through a roof via a chimney. There is a rusty pin for historical interest. Belay at tree.

  2. 30m (-) Continue up wide crack in slabby black wall to tree belay.

  3. 40m (-) More of the same low angle trench climbing to tree belay on steep hillside. Scramble and bush bash up from here.

22 The Draw Thief

Start as for Theory on Negativity. At 2nd bolt veer right and up steep wall.

20 Theory of Negativity

Sensational juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall.

23 The Cramps

Orange featured face 2m left of 'Theory of Negativity'. Bouldery start so stick clip the 2nd bolt if 23 is your limit.

23 Missing Link (Link-Up)

Links the low crux section of The Cramps into the crux section of On the Wagon via the short, closed flake. Good value! This link-up was done as follows, without any new rings: Start as for The Cramps and continue up to clip its 4th ring with a long draw. Step up and left to layaway off flake, reaching left to clip the 3rd ring of On the Wagon (OTW). Climb to the top of the flake to clip the 4th ring of OTW, then reach down and unclip 3rd ring of OTW to prevent rope drag. Continue up OTW to its anchors.

23 On the Wagon

Start 2m left of TC. Directly up the slightly overhung orange wall.

17 Grains of Sand

Marked GR

9 Levitation Chimney

They don't make them like this anymore, and that's probably a good thing. Another hybrid bush-walk slash rock-climb done by the 50s pioneers of choss and doodle. "Filthy. A vertical bushwalk. Take a trowel." [JME]

Start: Starts 2m left of The Cramps at vertical vegetated corner.

  1. 20m (-) Scrub to ledge and tree belay.

  2. 20m (10) Scrub to ledge, dirty crack and up to bush.

  3. 13m (-) Scrub to ledge (seeing the theme emerging here?)

  4. 12m (-) Right and up to ledge

  5. 15m (-) Filthy chimney on left.

8 Kedumba Gambit

A big black juggy old school slab.

Start:On corner at left of black wall with carved KG initials, shared with The Belfry.

  1. 25m (8) Up and slightly right to tree belay.

  2. 35m (-) Continue trending right past a few small bulges and good belay ledge, or another 10-15m to start of vegetated gully and tree belay.

  3. Scramble up gully and scrub to eventually finish under bridge.

12 The Belfry

Another major line of least resistance and most vegetation from the Rhum Dhu pioneers.

Start: Start as for 'Kedumba Gambit'.

  1. 50m (12) Climb first two pitches of 'Kedumba Gambit'. [Apparently to avoid hardcore roof corner / crack]

  2. 17m (-) Scrubby ledge left to tree.

  3. 10m (-) Yummy chimney.

  4. 20m (-) Continue up the chimney to tree.

  5. 10m (-) Continue up chimney to cave and tree.

  6. 13m (-) Right crack. "Wriggle into crack on the right crack and thrust upwards." [BA] Appears to be hideous barely navigable offwidth.

  7. 15m (-) Up.

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