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Routen in Northern Wall

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Zeigt alle 12 Routen.

Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Beliebtheit
22 WP

Marked. About 15m right of C, below rounded arete with a chipped hold on its left hand side.

Swing up to the jug on the nose, then continue up the arete (crux) and easier ground to the chossy yellow crack. Up this (with care!) then good moves up and out the steep headwall (take care - there's some biggish loose pieces up here). Top rope only, with a double bolt belay. The left leading corner directly above the mark is about grade 12 up to the headwall (the headwall is about grade 19 or 20). The corner right of the arete is about grade 18 to the headwall.

Toprope 16m
16 The Corner

At the base of the obvious low angled corner crack. A shame the good bit is so short!

Easy moves (often wet) up the low angled corner crack to a stance. Great laybacking on good rock up to and through the small roof to the top (take some fist size cams). Cam and Ubolt belay

Erstbegehung: Mikl Law, 1972

Traditionell 18m
D

An ancient, rotting aid route just right of the corner. All that's left are bolt holes and rusty little blobs of metal.

Traditionell 18m
19 Blood and Iron

The first of two climbs to traverse the horizontal breaks on the wall.

Up TC to the top break. Follow this right across the wall. Finish up AW.

Erstbegehung: Mikl Law, 1979

Gemischt trad 18m, 2
23 What'll the Neighbours Think

Up TC to the first break, then step right to the shallow corner (BR). Follow this (BRs) to the top. 6 BRs in total. Belay as for TC.

Erstbegehung: Giles Bradbury, 1980

Sport 18m, 6
21 Flesh and Steel

The high traverse route.

Up TC until level with the lower break. Hard move to gain break then follow it right. Finish up AW.

Erstbegehung: Mikl Law, 1979

Gemischt trad 25m, 5
24 Violet Town

Popular. Start as for TC.

Blast straight up and over the small roof (BRs) to the obvious "eye". Continue straight up the wall (BRs) to double bolt belay. 8 BRs in total.

Erstbegehung: M. Myers, 1990

Sport 18m, 8
24 M1 Punch the Clock

Still awaiting a free ascent. Start as for VT.

Up to the roof as for VT, then trend right, following the line of BRs up the left side of the black streak.

Erstbegehung: Mikl Law, 1980

Sport 18m, 8
26 Ordeal by Fur

2m right of PtC.

Heads up the right hand edge of the black streak. Traverse right to line (BR) then blast straight up the wall passing BRs.

Erstbegehung: Mikl Law, 1984

Sport 18m, 8
27 Moore

2m right of ObF, hard pull onto wall. Follow the line of manky BRs straight up the wall

Erstbegehung: Mikl Law, 1980

Sport 18m, 7
22 Acute What

3m right of M, on large white sloping boulder below chossy arete.

Step onto wall then dangle left around the arete. Head up the wall, trending right to stay near the arete.

Rebolted with 8 U bolts and new anchors. (June 2012)

Erstbegehung: Mikl Law, 1980

Sport 18m, 8
25 Spurting Wildly

Multipitch climb with ancient protection and even less natural protection. Start about 25 m R of Acute What on white choss wall. Below and just left of the corner in the middle of the east facing wall.

  1. 6m Up to ledge (manky BB).

  2. 19m (25) Head up to corner, passing loose block (manky BR and cams). Head up the wall just right of the corner, tending right over the void (rusty BRs; take a wire to protect the second). Manky BB for the belay.

Erstbegehung: mikl law, 1984

Sport 20m

Zeigt alle 12 Routen.

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