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Eintrag |
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Ground Control Caves
3 caves that sit up above and just right of the 'Grey & Green Walls' (see current 'Grampians' Select Guide). 'Access' either via the rugged summit walking track starting from 'Echoes Block' area, or via the much longer (but less exposed) tourist track from the Mt Zero carpark - heading towards Stapylton Summit. |
Top Cave
Difficult access may have resulted in this spot not being surveyed despite being 'around' lots of permitted climbing areas. There is no known CH. |
Top Cave |
V3
★ Smog
Upper Cave. Sit-start on the down-sloping jug and reach out right to gain the upper rampline. Topout if you're game enough. |
V3
★ Fog
Upper Cave. Sit-start in the LH corner and climb out to the good left-trending rampline to finish as for 'Smog'. |
V11/12
Nutts to Butts
Upper Cave. Links 'Fog' into 'Dead Heat'. |
V11
★★★ Dead Heat
Upper Cave. Rumoured to be a total classic at the grade - and it looks like it too. Sit-start left of 'I Feel So Holy' and motor up through the pockety featers on the steep wall to the big slopey break. Shuffle rightwards to a high-ish topout. |
V7
★★★ I Feel So Holy
Upper Cave. Has quite a reputation... One of the best problems for its grade. Starts just left of 'Donald'. Sit-start on two opposing sidepulls and climb the central 'rib' line directly via a very bad sloper, a pinch, and some sneaky footwork. Can also be done via a LH sequence using a big move to a bad sloper (RH) - then to the slopers on the lip, before moving up to the high jug. Solid at the grade either way. |
V3
★★★ Donald
Upper Cave. A V3 that looks like a V5... Sit-start on the rightside of the big hollow scoop and climb up to the big sloper. Topout leftwards via a better hold. |
V2
★ Family Duck
Upper Cave. A great looking arete-type weakness that isn't too hard for the grade. Climb the obvious line just right of 'Donald's' start and head right to finish. |
V2
Salmonelli's
Upper Cave Single problem right of the main business. |
Middle Cave
Difficult access may have resulted in this spot not being surveyed despite being 'around' lots of permitted climbing areas. There is no known CH. |
Middle Cave |
V8
★★ Rota-Loo
Middle Cave. Traverse from the LH corner (sit-start using underclings). Hard move into the traverse, across and into 'Lonely Heart Club' via a classic drop-down move, finishing as for that problem. |
V7
★★ Lonely Heart Club
Middle Cave. 2016 guidebook grading |
V8
★★ Ground Control to Major Tom
Middle Cave |
V11
★★★ Killer Dwarf
Middle Cave. 2016 guidebook grade |
V7
★ Captain Tonnelli
Upgraded from V5 to 7 in 2016 Bouldering Guide. Which seems fair! |
Lower Cave
Difficult access may have resulted in this spot not being surveyed despite being 'around' lots of permitted climbing areas. There is no known CH. |
Lower Cave |
V7
Woody Guthrie
Lower Cave. |
V9
Maria Huifuia
Lower Cave. |
V7
God of Thunder
Lower Cave. |
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