Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Roadside boulders | |||||
V2 | Avoidance
Stand-start and make a one-move-wonder to the good large hold where the arete flattens out. Mantel to finish. So named because the slabby arete above is where the real problem should go. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V5 | ★ Dune
Stand-start and reach a small positive edge using crimps. From here, better holds lead to a big move to a large blob, and then the top. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V0+ | ★ Dinky's traverse
Start on the left most juggy rail to the right of "Ghanima". Traverse right, use the sidepull on "I touched his face, I felt the gift", into gaston out right. Pull onto the jugs out right, then kick across to right detached block and finish right of "The face beyond the groping hands". | 9m | |||
V5 | ★★ Ghanima
Stand-start. Climb directly up the scoop, and then head out left via a small crimp on the face. From here, finish direct. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V6 | ★★ I touched his face, I felt the gift
Climb the arête from a stand-start. Pinchy moves lead to a throw to a good hold. From here head left to finish up the slab. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Spot or Die
AKA I touched the holds and hope they stayed on the face. It’s actually really cool and the holds held 4 ascents up front so that’s a start! Stand start via the pedestal then up via edges and the worrying looking layaway to finish direct or slightly right from the epic jug up high. Get a spot to keep you from breaking your back and or head on the lurking boulder of justice. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Moisture for the dead
Sit-start avoiding the large detached blocks to the left and right. Climb the obvious line of broken features to gain better holds and the top. Easier from a stand-start. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V0 | ★ The face beyond the groping hands
Sit start on the detached block to the right of Moisture for the dead. Climb up the detached block only, keeping left and close to the crack separating the blocks. | ||||
V0 | ★ Ash's Arete
Sit-start and climb the arete using the diagonal crack. Erstbegehung: Ash Sankey, 2010 | ||||
V4 | Deja Vu
Sit start and climb the wall directly to top out via Sidney Crosby. Big foothold at start of SC is out. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 11 Apr 2022 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Extended Moon
First move as for de ja vu then right reversing Sidney Crosbie and finishing up Babymoon. No use of the top until exit up BM. Will also have an extension into LOR. Erstbegehung: Zach Azeez, 13 Sep 2022 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Extended LOR
Start as for DJV, traverse right reversing SC, get established on vertical rail start of LOR and finish as for LOR (big foot ledge being in). Erstbegehung: Zach Azeez, 13 Sep 2022 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Extended Pain
Start DJV, finish up Pain and Persistence. The added climbing provides extra spice for the finish and a nice twist on the name. Erstbegehung: Zach Azeez, 7 Nov 2022 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Sidney Crosby
Sit-start using the undercut with the right hand. Lean a long way leftwards to use a pinch on the diagonal crack. Use this to cross over for a crimp above with the right hand before topping out on the far left arete. Stretchy and powerful Erstbegehung: Pete Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V4 | ★ Death to Tyrants
From undercling rock up and left to high diagonal incut in crack. Then straight up to top out. Reachy and grade or two harder if short arms. Erstbegehung: Zach Azeez, 29 Nov 2021 | ||||
V4 | ★ National Park
Sit-start on the undercut to reach a poor hold on the face. From here, a lunge up and leftwards gains the top. Feet stay on the block for the lunge. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V7 | ★ Pain and Persistence
Start as for National Park using the undercut and side-pull below. Right hand goes to a hold on the face. Hold the tension (feet on block) and get a higher hold with the left hand. From here, get your left foot up, steady and then go to the top with the left hand. Top section is a lot easier for the tall. Use the block for feet at the start but you get established with a higher left foothold prior to going for the top (unless you're a giant). Erste freie Begeh.: Peter Reynolds, 9 Mai 2017 Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 9 Mai 2017 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Babymoon
Sit-start just right of National Park with a lefthand undercling and righthand sidepull. Use the huge blocky foothold. Climb up through the nose on big holds via big moves. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2011 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Lindy, Oatey and Rushdie
Start as for 'Babymoon' (or even better matched on the big sidepull) but do not use the huge blocky foothold. Climb up and rightwards without using the nose via a sharp round pocket and a cut loose move to finish direct. This can be climbed using the huge blocky foothold at around V5/6. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2011 | ||||
V6 | ★ Nature's Nation
Sit-start on the lowest two side-pulls and climb the overhanging face on positive holds. Holds right of the arête (on the slab) are out of bounds for hands and feet. Low square notch on the arete is in. Top out to finish. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V0 | Toby's slab #1
Erstbegehung: Toby Roberts, 2010 | ||||
V0 | Toby's slab #2
Erstbegehung: Toby Roberts, 2010 | ||||
V0 | Gyroscopic Flop
Sit-start and climb the low rounded arête Opposite the boulder with St James, etc. facing away from the road. Erstbegehung: James Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V1 | ★ St Alia V1
Use the crack of St Toby to climb the slab to the left of that problem Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V3 | ★ St Toby
Stand-start and climb directly up the discontinuous crack. Avoid holds on the surrounding climbs. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V0 | ★ St James
Check the crack before sticking your fingers in! Funnel webs (possibly trapdoor spiders) have set up home in this crack (July, 2018). Inspect for circular, tube like webs in the crack Sit-start and climb the crack Climb is facing the road, on the boulder opposite Gyroscopic Flop. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V1 | ★ Shufflington
Sit-start and climb up the slab. Don’t stray too far left. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V3 | ★★ The Railway
Start L on the big two handed jug and traverse R-wards along the rail it is attached to. Burly moves lead to the bottom of Crowbar not required. Smack a heel under the flake and shimmy your way up the sketchy flake to top out Erstbegehung: Aiden Ellens | ||||
V1 | Crowbar not required
Sit-start and climb the arete using the large loose flake. Don't stray too far left Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V5 | My Brother's Idea
Sit-start and make a big move left to a crimp around the side of the bloc. Use this to rearrange your feet to allow a direct finish up the left-hand arête. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V4 | ★ My Idea
Sit-start on crimps and then reach rightwards to the arête which is climbed to finish. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
VB | Frog in the Fog
SDS with two hands on jugs - finish to the right. Erstbegehung: Jamie | ||||
VB | Albert the Elephant
SDS on same holds as "Frog in the Fog". Head to the top and traverse left around the arete. Head up once you are established on the good jug foothold on the left. Erstbegehung: Jamie | ||||
V6 | ★★ Armchair Tourist
Sit-start on the largest holds in the low break (not quite at the far right-hand end). Traverse leftwards, slapping and heel-hooking, until better holds permit a reachy rock-over to finish. Nice line but tricky to keep your feet off the ground. Erstbegehung: Pete Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V1 | ★ Sit in the armchair
Sit start using any hold you want and head straight up. Erstbegehung: Jason Moody, 15 Jun 2019 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Sick skink and the ham
Climb the slab from a small ledge. Stand-start. Erstbegehung: Charlie Creese, 2004 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Disappearing spider
Stand-start to the right of SSatH. Climb the slab directly via some thin moves Erstbegehung: Charlie Creese, 2004 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Farmer Daniel
Stand-start and climb the arête which eases at the top. Since tree fell against arete start now considerably more awkward and more like V2. Erstbegehung: Charlie Creese, 2004 | ||||
Artful Dodger | |||||
V5 | Lama's V5
Jump for the small slanting sidepull on the arete with your right hand. Get established on the large rail above before topping out over the upper arete Erstbegehung: Martin Lama | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Artful dodger
Possibly the best line in the area. Climb the gorgeous arete using small but positive holds. Stand start using the big undercling with the right hand. Erstbegehung: Simon weill | ||||
V10 | ★★ Swallows and Amazons Sit
Adds a few fun and powerful moves to get into the stand. Sit start right hand on slopey dish, left hand at base of long arete feature. Detached block in for feet at this grade (suspected V11+ variation project possible sans block.) punch up and sail away. Erstbegehung: Zach Azeez, 25 Jun | 6m | |||
V9 | ★★ Swallows and Amazons
Stand start with left hand in the open corner and right hand on a low crimp. Punch up for better holds on the arete with the right hand, then technical moves allow a crimp on the front face to be got with the left hand. Carry on directly up the face/arete (still tricky). A fantastic climb. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014 | ||||
V1 | ★★ Lama's V1
Climb the arete/slab on the slabby left-hand side. Eases at the finish. Erstbegehung: Martin Lama | ||||
V3 | ★ Lama's V3
Climb the arete on the steep right-hand side. A tricky stand-start eases after a few moves Erstbegehung: Martin Lama | ||||
V4 | ★ Pink Wafer
Stand on the large boulder to the right of Lama's V3, pull on to the wall and grab the large ledge below the top. Top out. Height dependent. A bit weird really. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds | ||||
V2 | Bison
Overhanging arete on the boulder right of the main boulder. Short. Opposite Lama's V1. Not on the bolus boulder. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds | ||||
V2 | Ruby Chewsday
Start on the boulder to the right of the Bolus boulder. From a good hold on the right arete, traverse from R to L (tricky move in the middle) ending up on the Bolus boulder. Finish easily. I was there. The rock was there. I thought I may as well climb it. It may well have been done before. Most probably by me! Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 22 Jul 2018 | ||||
Bolus
Various problems and eliminates up to V4 Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds | |||||
Hidden Hideaway | |||||
V5 | ★★ Anamnesis
Sitstart and climb the beautiful arete on its left hand side to a mantle. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 20 Jun 2022 | ||||
V0 | ★★ Inner Reflection
Sitstart and climb the cracks and wall right of Anamnesis. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 20 Jun 2022 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Adak
High stand-start left of Maverick and climb the crack/wall using the vague arete to the right. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 10 Jul 2022 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Maverick
Stand-start matched on the crimp rail in the wall left of Lil Ditto and make a hard move to the big hold up on the face. Finish via more long moves and slopers. A great problem with some hard moves. I did flirt with giving it V9 but maybe V8 is closer to the mark - time will tell. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 10 Jul 2022 | ||||
V4 | ★ Lil Ditto
Located in the cluster of boulders near the top of the quarry wall. Sit start with LH on face, R on arete. Move up through exciting traverse to blobby topout. Erstbegehung: T-Bone & Luke Batchelor, 1 Aug 2021 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Dot to Dot
Opposite Maverick. Stand start and climb the nice wall in the gulley on chicken heads. Good moves. Be careful not to fall into the opposite wall of the gulley. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 21 Jul 2022 | ||||
V3 | Dark Side of the Nest
Low stand-start and make a move to the lip then a long reach over to finish. Don't use the side wall. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 21 Jul 2022 | ||||
V3 | Chasing the Buffalo
Sit-start right of DSOTN and climb the prow feature. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 21 Jul 2022 | ||||
V1 | Wild Savannah
Sit-start and climb the arete right of Chasing the Buffalo. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 22 Jul 2022 | ||||
V5 | Guerilla Gardening
Climb the crack which fades out at the top. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 2014 | ||||
V5 | ★★ The Crucial Crimp
A lovely delicate climb...can you find the crucial crimp? Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 2014 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Swimming Lessons
Start as for TCC but make a powerful move right onto the good top hold on the other face. Make a hard mantle from here. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 2014 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Pioneering Spirit
Sit-start and up the wall to finish with a tricky mantle. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 2014 | ||||
V4 | Surreal
Climb the wall. Sit start. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 16 Mai 2022 | ||||
V2 | Cereal
Climb the wall and cracks. Sit start. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 16 Mai 2022 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Serial
Sit-start and climb up to the layaway. Traverse left to finish using the detached block. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 12 Jan 2015 | ||||
V3 | ★ Sunrain
Nice powerful small boulder. Erstbegehung: Hiro Nishikawa, 26 Okt 2014 | ||||
VB | Wren's V2
Perfect for the kids, climb up the dirty crack using the flake and ledge. Erstbegehung: Wren | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Sylvie's Special
Start on the flake go up direct and mantle onto the grass. Erstbegehung: Tom Hodges | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Sunday's Slab
Stand start on the left end of the ledge go straight up on good crimps to a desperate mantle. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ So the turn tables
Start on top of the boulder, and circumnavigate the horn. Add a few grades if you avoid the detached block as a foothold. 3 stars if this is your kind of thing, less than zero if you like your forearm skin. | 1m | |||
Eastern Slope First drop Ape-Index Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Ape-index Action
Sit start on large angled rail. Move up right, and then top out easily Erstbegehung: Cameron MacLeman, 14 Jun 2023 | 2m | |||
Eastern Slope First drop Diamond Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ Diamond in the rough
Start with Hands on the Good Quartz jugs, and feet on the textured quartz rail. Traverse left gaining good feet, then up into tricky moves before topping out through thin seam. Avoid using Right arete. Erstbegehung: Cameron MacLeman, 14 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Rough edges
Start as for Diamond in the rough, but continue traverse to right arete and top out easily. Erstbegehung: Cameron MacLeman, 14 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
VB | ★ Uncut diamond
Climb the Right arete from the good undercling. Erstbegehung: Cameron MacLeman, 14 Jun 2023 | 2m | |||
Eastern Slope First drop | |||||
Project
Start on the good hands with barely any feet, up sharp moves to top out on slab. | 2m | ||||
V2 | ★ Moss hugger
Sit start with good hands and cryptic feet. Slap up the opposing aretes to top out hugging the mossy capstone. Good hands can be found without clearing the moss and lichen beds. Erstbegehung: Cameron MacLeman, 14 Jun 2023 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Equilibrium
From a sit, climb the Left arete being careful to avoid detaching the lower half of the weak flake. | 2m | |||
Project 2
Start as for Push and Pull. Traverse Left on sparse feet and thin hands and finish as for Equilibrium. | 4m | ||||
V0 | Push and Pull
Start with good hands and smeared feet. Follow Right arete upward and reach mossy jug for top out. | 2m | |||
Eastern Slope First drop Short Cliff | |||||
Slab Project 1
Active project on thin clean slab. | 5m | ||||
V1 | ★★ Scurry
Sit start on low good ledge 1m to the Left of Marbled Gecko. Up left to flake, and then follow rail and top out as for Staircase. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Marbled Gecko
Sit start using compression moves and avoiding the large ledge off Left. Up to gain positive rail and mantle before topping out. | 2m | |||
V0 | Staircase
Climb up through sloped ledges to top out. Sit start. | 2m | |||
VB | ★ Multipitch
Pitch 1: From a sit start Climb the Right arete of the boulder to large ledge. Pitch 2: Continue up and over capstone to good belay. | 3m | |||
Eastern Slope | |||||
V3 | Nature break
Arete no feet on adjacent boulder - stand start. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 29 Okt 2020 | ||||
V7 | Crucify
Traverse L to R and finish up Nature Break. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 3 Nov 2020 | ||||
V5 | ★ Once Upon a Climb
Stand start and up crack and wall. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 3 Nov 2020 | ||||
V1 | Crossroads
Sit-start the obvious crack and traverse left to slopey top-out. Erstbegehung: Rudi Schoo & Eddie Albrecht, 2011 | ||||
V2 | "Looks V0"
Start with notch on the bulge and gaston in the crack and climb the bulge. Erstbegehung: Anthony Williams, 10 Jun 2023 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Bloodsport
Up the hill and to the left of Once Upon a Climb. Start with left hand side pull in the crack and right hand on the arete. Kick foot onto bulge and move up the arete. Bulge is out after the first move. Can maybe be done without the bulge. Erstbegehung: Nick Moore, 10 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Constriction
Located 30m up the hill from Crossroads. Sit start with left hand on vertical crack and right hand on low pinch. Up and left via side-pulls to dead-point and mantle. Erstbegehung: Matthieu Burgess, 22 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
Crystal Creek Hell West Wall | |||||
V4 | ★ Pocket Pistol
One for the shorties. Bunched sit start with low left hand crimp and right hand on low side-pull. Pull off the ground and bump for first descent hold, then up and right to mantle avoiding crack and hollow flake. Erstbegehung: Matthieu Burgess, 16 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
V1 | Wagon Wheel
Start as for Welcome Wagon but head out right. Erstbegehung: Matthieu Burgess, 16 Jul 2023 | 3m | |||
V1 | Welcome Wagon
Stand start with left hand side-pull and right hand on ball jug. Up and left via vague ramp. Erstbegehung: Matthieu Burgess, 16 Jul 2023 | 3m | |||
V3 | Tin Man
Climb the blunt arete from a stand start. Erstbegehung: Matthieu Burgess, 16 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ True Grit
Stand start with left on arete and right in small crack. Up arete and face to fridge hugging before top-out, avoid using tree limb. Erstbegehung: Matthieu Burgess, 16 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Lock, Stock & Two Smoking Barrels
Sit start with low left hand sidepull and right hand in crack. Up through amazing finger-lock to top out. Erstbegehung: Matthieu Burgess, 16 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Fast Draw
Sit start with left hand on undercling as for HW&C and right hand in the bottom of crack. Up crack to dynamic move to join top of LS&2SB. Erstbegehung: Matthieu Burgess, 16 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Hell West & Crooked
Very classy climb with some great moves. Located 40m downhill from Hispaniola. Sit start with both hands matching low undercling. Up and left via undercling and featured arete. Don’t stack pads for full experience. Erstbegehung: Matthieu Burgess, 16 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
Crystal Creek Hispaniola Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Hispaniola
Stand start and climb the thin crack/wall to the break and an easier crack to top out. Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 2 Feb 2021 | 5m | |||
V3 | Fragility
Left side of shield left around the corner from Hispaniola. The awesome arete awaits... Erstbegehung: Peter Reynolds, 2 Feb 2021 |