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Eintrag |
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Big Banana Buttress & The Extremes
The longest routes in the crag are found here, on both sport and trad. |
Big Banana Buttress
Big Banana Buttress is the tallest section of Monkey Face offering a number of multi-pitch routes. |
18
★★ R.S.
The striking corner on the centre left of the Big Banana Buttress.
Best if pitch 1 and 2 are combined or done as one monster pitch saving small cams till the end. |
19
Interlude
Climb RS for a few metres then lunge right, across the hanging wall to a wide break, and join Apple Arete near it's first belay. |
18
★★ Apple Arete
Climb the right arete of RS for a few metres then swing right to belay. Step back left and climb the arete past 2 bolts, then follow the groove to a pedestal belay on the left. Take medium cams. Abseil off. |
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★ Dire Straits
Starts at Apple Arete belay chains then moves left and up arete past 5 UB to belay on top of the Big Banana. |
21
★★ No Support for the Monarchy
From the Big Banana belay, step right into the groove, surmount block and continue left, up indifferent rock past 2 bolts to a roof. Surmount roof and on to next roof passing 2 more bolts, then a further bolt leads to the RS belay. Optional cam under block to finish. |
16
★★ Big Bananna
From the top of 5 Finger Exercise, traverse left to climb the thin corner, followed by a groove to the a double bolt belay on a pedestal. |
22
★★ Shades (Direct)
Climb the orange wall past a bolt left of the left arete of Stopper, to join The Future's So Bright. |
24
★★ New Horizons
Start at ground level, on wall between Apple Arete and Shick. Up to roof, swing right to a bolt, then climb the blank wall trending back left, past 5 bolts to DBB. Now ring bolted and with a lower-off below the giant rocking block. Can continue up to link into "Shades Direct", providing a couple of grade 24 crux sections |
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★★ Sharp End
Starts from the Stopper Cave at UB belay. Climb out of cave then up the face and left past 3 UB |
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★ Rapsailers
Start as for 'Sharp End' but head right and up arete after first bolt |
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★★ The Future's so Bright
A low level traverse across the left wall of Stopper leads past the arete to horizontal breaks, from here, the wall above is climbed direct past 2 bolts to an exit crack and bolt belay |
The Extremes
The short wall just past Big Banana Buttress |
13
★ Shick
"A close shave", climb the juggy arete right of New Horizons, traversing left above a friend break to easier ground. Exit to the terrace. |
18
Save the Orchids
Climb the arete right of Shick, thin move past a bolt, continue up the arete past 2 bolts to tree belay. |
22
★★ Two Finger Exercise
Boulder the wall to a bolt and mantle then continue via a second bolt and thin crack. |
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Three Finger Exercise
The line of bolts just left of five fingers |
14
★ Five Finger Exercise
You used to able to bridge up the tree but it's a bit harder now that the tree is dead. Move up then move left past a bolt and flake to a pocketed traverse line. Step right to a large flake, which is followed to a groove and wall to finish at the large tree. |
12
Five Fingers
At the Five Finger Exercise traverse, move left to a ramp system, which is followed to rejoin FFE. |
18
Longreach Crack
The cracked arete just right of 'Five Fingers'. |
14
Plebe's Plummet
Wall past a bolt. |
16
Wall to Thin Crack
Boulder the wall then continue above the break with a thin crack for protection. |
14 M1
Alpinist's Dream
"don't bother, the only aid climbs on the cliff and subsequent ascents will only leave scars" The first peg crack. |
14 M1
Yosemite
The other worthless peg crack. |
15
Digital Extraction
The flake at the right end of the wall with an optional bolt out right on the wall. |
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