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Eintrag
Big Banana Buttress & The Extremes

The longest routes in the crag are found here, on both sport and trad.

Big Banana Buttress

Big Banana Buttress is the tallest section of Monkey Face offering a number of multi-pitch routes.

18 R.S.

The striking corner on the centre left of the Big Banana Buttress.

  1. 18 Up overhanging corner to belay in groove where angle eases.

  2. Easy bridging to windblown cave with UB belay.

  3. Up wide roof crack and corner to UB or tree belay.

Best if pitch 1 and 2 are combined or done as one monster pitch saving small cams till the end.

19 Interlude

Climb RS for a few metres then lunge right, across the hanging wall to a wide break, and join Apple Arete near it's first belay.

18 Apple Arete

Climb the right arete of RS for a few metres then swing right to belay. Step back left and climb the arete past 2 bolts, then follow the groove to a pedestal belay on the left. Take medium cams. Abseil off.

18 Dire Straits

Starts at Apple Arete belay chains then moves left and up arete past 5 UB to belay on top of the Big Banana.

21 No Support for the Monarchy

From the Big Banana belay, step right into the groove, surmount block and continue left, up indifferent rock past 2 bolts to a roof. Surmount roof and on to next roof passing 2 more bolts, then a further bolt leads to the RS belay. Optional cam under block to finish.

16 Big Bananna

From the top of 5 Finger Exercise, traverse left to climb the thin corner, followed by a groove to the a double bolt belay on a pedestal.

22 Shades (Direct)

Climb the orange wall past a bolt left of the left arete of Stopper, to join The Future's So Bright.

24 New Horizons

Start at ground level, on wall between Apple Arete and Shick. Up to roof, swing right to a bolt, then climb the blank wall trending back left, past 5 bolts to DBB. Now ring bolted and with a lower-off below the giant rocking block. Can continue up to link into "Shades Direct", providing a couple of grade 24 crux sections

18 Sharp End

Starts from the Stopper Cave at UB belay. Climb out of cave then up the face and left past 3 UB

18 Rapsailers

Start as for 'Sharp End' but head right and up arete after first bolt

22 The Future's so Bright

A low level traverse across the left wall of Stopper leads past the arete to horizontal breaks, from here, the wall above is climbed direct past 2 bolts to an exit crack and bolt belay

The Extremes

The short wall just past Big Banana Buttress

13 Shick

"A close shave", climb the juggy arete right of New Horizons, traversing left above a friend break to easier ground. Exit to the terrace.

18 Save the Orchids

Climb the arete right of Shick, thin move past a bolt, continue up the arete past 2 bolts to tree belay.

22 Two Finger Exercise

Boulder the wall to a bolt and mantle then continue via a second bolt and thin crack.

23 Three Finger Exercise

The line of bolts just left of five fingers

14 Five Finger Exercise

You used to able to bridge up the tree but it's a bit harder now that the tree is dead. Move up then move left past a bolt and flake to a pocketed traverse line. Step right to a large flake, which is followed to a groove and wall to finish at the large tree.

12 Five Fingers

At the Five Finger Exercise traverse, move left to a ramp system, which is followed to rejoin FFE.

18 Longreach Crack

The cracked arete just right of 'Five Fingers'.

14 Plebe's Plummet

Wall past a bolt.

16 Wall to Thin Crack

Boulder the wall then continue above the break with a thin crack for protection.

14 M1 Alpinist's Dream

"don't bother, the only aid climbs on the cliff and subsequent ascents will only leave scars" The first peg crack.

14 M1 Yosemite

The other worthless peg crack.

15 Digital Extraction

The flake at the right end of the wall with an optional bolt out right on the wall.

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