Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.8 | ★★ Gooseberry
Named after a huge gooseberry bush once found in the final pitch chimney, this is a classic multipitch, as much for its location as the quality of the rock. The route does not rely on very much gear, having been bolted fairly liberally over the years. All belay stations are bolted. Approach: from the intersection of Tunnel Mountain Road and Drive, walk across the open field to the far right corner. Take the trail down and left towards the left-end of Tunnel Mountain. Contour across until you reach the cliff, go a bit farther, and arrive at the start -- the name is scratched in the rock. Start at the name scratched in the rock.
Descent: walk up to the tourist trail, then descend it. Walk along the road back to the car. Erstbegehung: Lloyd MacKay & Ken Baker, 1967 Erschliesser: Lloyd MacKay & Ken Baker, 1967 | 250m, 7 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Tonka
1
5.9
2
5.10a
3
5.10d
4
5.10a
5
5.9
6
5.10c/d
7
5.9
8
5.10b
Route starts to the right of a little cave about 50m left of Gooseberry. Beware of loose rock. This is a fantastic route with each pitch being better than the last. Bring a lot of quickdraws if you intend to combine pitches.
Erstbegehung: Joe McKay, 2009 | 230m, 8 | |||
5.10d | ★★ River Run
Scramble up/walk off for 50m to rejoin Tunnel Mountain Hiking Trail. Erstbegehung: Chris Perry & Brian Wyvill, Aug 2016 | 250m, 9 | |||
Personal Pleasure Waves | |||||
5.11c | ★★ Personal Pleasures
Funky short route tucked away by itself, next to the very blank bullet hard scooping wall on a blunt arête. A steep climb with a tufa and great crimps. Sustained climbing for two bolts! Great for grade, if only it was longer. Erstbegehung: Kelly MacLeod, 1998 | 8m, 4 | |||
5.10b | ★ Lost In Shadows
Obscure location - the wall to the left of Personal Pleasure, good luck finding it. New hardware, great warm Up for the area. Erstbegehung: kelly mccleoud | 12m, 4 | |||
5.10d | ★ Winterfell
Further hikers left from Personal Pleasure Wave, is two routes on a Chalky wall above industrial playground. Winterfell is the route climbing left. A balancey slab move gains a a face climb. Another balancey move gains a gaston to crimp to undercling in the "hole" of the wall. Climber constantly climbs to the left of the bolts and a few long draws help. Erschliesser: Jimmy Blackhall, Sep 2015 Erstbegehung: James Blackhall, Apr 2016 | 12m, 6 | |||
5.8 | Hodor
A fun flake climb to a awkward mantel and finish. Very questionable rock. Has been cleaned loads but still.........blame the pomey, Dav Stevens for deciding to bolt choss. Left of winterfell Erschliesser: David Stevens, Sep 2015 Erstbegehung: James Blackhall, Sep 2015 | 10m, 3 | |||
5.9 | The Hound
Just below Winterfell and Hodor, is a small slab just directly above Industrial Playground (The Charltan 10.b/c can access it). It can be accessed by Personal pleasure waves or by walking across the goat trail or start of pitch 2 of Funky Town's 10c/d pitch. My personal thinking was to bolt a new 2 pitches above the middle of Industrial Playground thus creating a new multi-pitch, but choss and vegetation ruined my endeavors from Charltans anchors. I have walked from Charltans anchors to The hound, but it isnt enjoyable. Thus these funny short routes are developed as my first bolted routes. Belay can clip in to bolt on wall. The route always climbs to the left of the bolts. A funny crux move between the 1st and 2nd bolt gains a flake to the left. Easy climbing above. Erste freie Begeh.: Jimmy Blackhall, 2015 | 8m, 4 | |||
Industrial Playground | |||||
5.11b | Brace Yourself
Erstbegehung: Unknown | 23m, 7 | |||
5.9 | ★ Look Mom, No Hands
| 17m, 7 | |||
5.11d | Funky Town
| 10 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Norwegian Blue
This short slabby face climb is a great warm up for the area. | 10m, 3 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Pinin for the Fjords
This technical face slab climb has a crux just getting to the first bolt. | 11m, 3 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Offirmo
Following the line of Black hangers, micro-crimp and pinch your way up the delicate solid slab. Once you clip the 2nd bolt you can breathe again. Shares the same anchor as “Pinin’ For The Fjords”. Offirmo is Latin for determination/to hold firm. Erste freie Begeh.: Jimmy Blackhall, Aug 2018 | 11m, 4 | |||
5.11b | ★ Whistle whistle click click
It’s all in The feet! A great steep slab. If you can make it past the 2nd bolt the rest is in the bag. | 17m, 7 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Steel bananas
Brown hangers over a tiny roof. | 17m | |||
5.10c | ★★ The Nanny
| 20m | |||
5.10b | ★ Party Hoppin
Climb the left side of a shallow scoop via edges and sidepulls to a small roof. Vertical climbing gains the anchor. | 20m | |||
5.10b | ★ Screamin Toad
| 20m | |||
5.9 | ★★ Lenny
| 20m | |||
5.10b | ★ Burly
Burly? Sarcasm. Climb over a small roof with great feet. Slabby face climbing leads to another roof with good feet. | 20m | |||
5.10a | ★★ Digitalised Chaos
| 16m | |||
5.10c | ★ Rogue wave
Climb through a large white rock scar to a small roof. A short in your face Crux gives way to easier climbing | 19m | |||
5.10c | ★★ Charlatan
| 28m | |||
5.10b | ★ Femtograms
| 22m, 9 | |||
5.10c | ★★ The Cat Came Back
Start below a small mossy left facing corner. Climb up and through a small corner and finish with some slabby face climbing. | 21m | |||
5.10b | ★ Calypso
| 22m | |||
5.10c | ★ Castilleja
| 21m, 8 | |||
5.10b | ★ Die Laughing
Fun flake climbing down low gains a balancey vertical crux. Trust the feet! | 18m, 7 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Pushin the Envelope
From the top of the moss ledge, slopery steam Crux in your face! Another mini Crux gains the small ledge under the roof. Positive holds on the roof! Enjoy the beauty chert band ontop. Great quality Erstbegehung: Kelly M | 28m, 11 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Lick the Stamp
Branches out from Pushing the envelope after the mini Crux gaining the small ledge under the roof. Beauty chert band above. Erstbegehung: Kelly M | 27m, 11 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Rest in Pieces
| 29m | |||
5.11a | ★★ Evanescence
Head for a short left facing corner with a thin crack above it. Technical! | 27m | |||
5.10d | ★★ The Promised land
Pull the super fun roof, into a intricate technical section. Long climbing on amazing chert band to finish it. | 28m | |||
5.11a | ★★ The Third degree
| 27m | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Chertsicle
| ||||
5.10b | ★★ Carry on Runstible
| 28m | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Elysian Fields
After climbing over a low roof, enjoy easier climbing moves that end at a high fun slabby Crux. | 24m, 11 | |||
5.11a | ★ b52
| 26m | |||
Funky Town | |||||
5.9 | ★ Look Mom No Hands
Stiff for grade, probs a better 10.a. Traverse left for three bolts with no feet Erstbegehung: Kelly MacLeod, 1998 | 17m, 7 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Funky Town
Starts right next to "Look Mum no hands". 5.8, 5.10c, 5.11d. Great Quality last pitch. Rap the routes Erstbegehung: Kelly Macleod, 1998 | 3, 23 | |||
Wash Area | |||||
5.14 | Project from the 80's
The rusty hardware leading out of the cave up hill from scoop area. It is landmarked by a white rope hanging from it. Open project set in the 1970-80's and looks to go around 5.13+ 5.14. | ||||
5.10c | Unnamed B | ||||
Scoop Area | |||||
5.11a | ★ Sweet Nothings
A few positive holds start this pitch before the climbing turns grim. | 13m, 5 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Stranger than Fiction
Climb the left side of a short hanging pillar. Pure friction lies above | 14m, 5 | |||
5.10c | ★ Stick to what | 12m, 4 | |||
5.10c | Science Friction
Smear up a left facing groove to anchors at the final bolt. Short Erstbegehung: John martin, 2006 | 11m, 5 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Harvest
Enjoyable CLIMBING UP CLEAN, GREY STONE, ENDS AT AN ANCHOR BELOW A PATCH OF WHITE ROCK. Erstbegehung: John Martin, 2005 | 25m, 10 | |||
5.10b | ★ Heat
Easy climbing on edges to a cheeky move to the anchor. Erstbegehung: John martin, 2005 | 17m, 6 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Los Pinos
Begin up a left trending ramp and finish straight up on edges with a couple friction moves to keep the climbing interesting. | 26m, 9 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Scoop route
Stiff for grade, closer to 10.b esocially with the run outs. Climb straight up the middle of the scoop on edges, pinches and slopers. Erstbegehung: Greg Golovach, 1996 | 27m, 8 | |||
5.10c | Slice of Life
Work up the steep, right side to the fifth bolt and trend right onto the face. Erstbegehung: John martin | 21m, 8 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Strike out
ascend a steep slab on edges just right of the scoop. Erstbegehung: Greg Golovach, 1996 | 24m, 9 | |||
5.10d | ★ Sweet Spot
Blocky pinches and cool chert edges. Erstbegehung: john martin, 2005 | 22m, 8 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Velocity
This great route has a short lived crux down low that is followed by balancey edge climbing all the way with a couple of mini cruxes. Erstbegehung: John Martin | 26m, 10 | |||
5.11b | ★ Deep six
Balancey moves lead to a thin crux and then easier, but still involved climbing. This route is land marked by a small roof at its 5th bolt. Erstbegehung: John martin | 24m, 10 | |||
5.11a | Steady as she goes
Balancey and thin | 22m, 9 | |||
5.11a | ★★ High hopes
A low crux is followed by nice climbing and a finial tough section pasta small roof near the top. Sustained | 30m, 15 | |||
5.10c A0 | ★★ Ballista
A fun adventurous route that is super popular in the morning sun. Two pitches include chert rock. Walk off. • 5.10a, 5.8, 5.10c, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.9 chert, 5.8 A0 (3 bolt ladder), 5.10a chert • 206m Erstbegehung: Chris Perry, 2007 | 210m, 8, 13 | |||
Gonda Roof | |||||
5.7 | ★ Dancing Sasquatch
To get to Dancing Sasquatch, park at Surprise Pass corner down from the Banff Centre. Approach as for The Shoe and Gonda Roof area. At the wall, go left for five metres to the route. Pitch one: Up slab to left-facing corner past a tree. Up another corner and slab to notch past right-facing corner. Move right past bolt 8 and up “staircase” past bolt nine to anchor right of bush. (5.5, 30m) Pitch two: Left up corner to fun climbing up crack feature. Stay left using big flakes and move right past bolt 6 into right-facing crack to anchor. (5.6, 30m) Pitch three: Up right following bolts on black chert. The rock is friable. Keep your feet low on the big grey steps and use the black rock for your hands. Well bolted because of the traverse past five bolts then up to bolt six and seven on good holds before the anchor. (5.7, 20m) Pitch four: Lead/walk up and left along the rising ledge and around to the forest past a short rock step. (3rd class) Descent: Walk off trail takes you to the road in 200 metres / Gear: 10 quickdraws, one 60-metre rope. New route as of April 2017. The route required a few days to clean. The first ascent was by Gripped editor Brandon Pullan and Gaby James in April 2017. Erstbegehung: Brandon Pullan & Gaby James, Apr 2017 | 80m, 3, 21 | |||
5.6 | Gonda Traverse | 80m, 2 | |||
5.6 | ★ Le Soulier
1
5.5
25m
2
5.6
25m
3
5.6
20m
4
5.6
20m
| 90m | |||
5.9 | ★ Lefthand Finish
Alternate Finish to Le Soulier | 35m, 8 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Gonda Roof | 10m, 6 | |||
5.8 | Gonda Direct | 40m | |||
5.10a | The Dirtbag
1
5.6
2
5.8
3
5.10a
4
5.9
Erstbegehung: Alyssa Acchione & Brandon Pullan, 2019 | 4, 10 | |||
Black Band | |||||
5.8 | ★ Sliding 29
First route you see. Awkward ledges lead to an easy bulge and some slab climbing. | 25m, 8 | |||
5.10a | ★ Troglodyte
Obvious moves into a cruxy roof. Finish with some easy climbing. | 22m, 8 | |||
5.9 | ★ Home Cookin'
An awkward roof into some easy climbing on top. | 25m, 6 | |||
5.9 | ★ Rocket Surgery
climb a series of whiteoverlaps and finish on cool rock. | 15m, 6 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Welcome to the Jungle
Start with a bunch of underclings and sidepulls to transition into a crimpy finish. | 19m, 8 | |||
5.10a | ★ Dab Hand
Easy for grade. Enjoy fun climbing on jugs down low, crimps up high and two small roofs. | 23m, 9 | |||
5.10a | ★ Number one Stirfried
Edge climbing leads to a few small roofs. | 26m, 10 | |||
5.10b | ★ Walk the Line
Climb up a flakey left facing corner. Crimps on top will cause hesitation before cruising to easier moves that lead to a small roof. A larger roof guards the anchor. | 25m, 9 | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Missing Link
Climb over a left facing flake and finish along the edge of the roofs. Some down-climbing or traversing may be needed if rappelling/lowering off a 60m rope -- tie a knot in the end. Erstbegehung: John Martin, 2006 | 28m | |||
5.9 | Farago
Climb up a small, left facing corner and into a small right facing corner above. | 25m, 8 | |||
5.10a | ★ Who’s afraid of the Black Bear
Goes just left of a tree on the wall -- just goes on a 60m rope, but tie a knot. Erstbegehung: John Martin, 2006 | 31m | |||
5.11a | ★ Bear Necessities
This fun route tackles a plumb line up flakes and edges. At he anchors of Who’s Afriad of The Black Bear, get ready to take on the roof. | 33m, 10 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Tunnel Vision
Start at an obvious break and climb easily to a ledge. Technical climbing to a rail and finish straight to the anchors. | 33m, 13 | |||
5.8 | ★ The Force
Flake climbing down low leads to a big diagonal break at the base of a right facing corner. A healthy spacing of bolts will keep you on your toes. There is a route called Force Full (10b) that starts at the anchors and finishes past the roof. Erstbegehung: Al Ducros & JP McCormid, 2002 | 32m, 8 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Force Full
The extension to the Force, gaining a remarkable position. | 35m | |||
5.10c/d | ★ Fifth Business
Hard to tell the grade as it feels the same as it’s neighbour, theres two definite slabby techy moves. Sustained small edges and thin crimps | 35m, 14 | |||
5.10c | ★★ One Brick in the Wall
Sustained edge climbing. Excellent and technical. 2 pitches | 38m, 2, 14 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Saving grace
2 pitches, first pitch is sustained 5.10b/c on edges and crimps. Second pitch is super fun, airy and the same, techy! | 40m, 2, 17 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Dude
An fun little classic for its grade. Climb the juggy flake, transfer to a easy slab move, layback the juggy crack. One of the best for grade in the valley | 20m, 7 | |||
5.9 | ★ Veisalgia
Start on Dude and branch right at the second bolt. | 17m, 6 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Domino
Begin in front of a large tree and follow a rightward traversing line over some nice cert bands. | 20m, 7 | |||
5.10b | Clean Slate
Start below a ledge at four meters. Balancy climbing leads to a mid height roof. | 33m, 12 | |||
5.10a | ★ Pentimento
Fun sustained climbing on excellent rock. | 28m, 10 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Sunburn
Fantastic rock, technical and fun | 30m, 9 | |||
5.11c | Camino del Sol
1
5.10c
2
5.11c
3
5.9
A 3 pitch route with varied climbing | 3, 11 | |||
The Wave | |||||
5.11c | ★★ Point Break
Furthest route on the left. Powerful climbing on small positive holds for the first few bolts to 5fun climbing above. Erstbegehung: Brandon Pullan, 7 Mai 2023 | 15m | |||
5.10a | Beach Bum
Big move off the ground to gain cracks. Climb up through some questionable rock using funky holds. Erstbegehung: Brandon Pullan & Krysten Wiebe, Mai 2023 | 18m | |||
5.10c | Radical
Start at the shallow right facing corner and traverse up and left, easier above. Erstbegehung: Brandon Pullan & Krysten Wiebe, Mai 2023 | 18m | |||
5.10c | ★★ Black Pearl
Left most route on the big slab. More interesting than its neighbor. Erstbegehung: Brandon Pullan & Mich Balto, 18 Jun 2023 | 23m | |||
5.11b | ★★ The Surfer
Slab to big moves into a feature and beautiful incut holds to the top. Might feel harder than 5.11b if you don't have a big reach. History: After the third bolt is a leeper self drive from the 1970s. It was part of a route called Side Step and was added by Urs Kallen. It went hard right on to the chert and they'd rappel a tree, the big dead one that's been blown over. Erstbegehung: Brandon Pullan, Mai 2023 | 23m, 15 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Surfs Up
The right most route on the slab. Traverse up and left on the slab to the wave. Super fun climbing through the steep section which you wished goes on forever gets you to easier climbing to the top. Erstbegehung: Brandon Pullan, 19 Mai 2023 | 23m | |||
Steep Scoop wall | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ Safe Heaven
Next to Ballista to the right is a chossy little cave. This fun route climbs a crack up a overhanging wall. | 11m, 6 | |||
5.13+ | ★ Taks route
The green rope hanging on the beauty steep shield like wall. Erschliesser: Tak Abe | ||||
5.11d | Petes route
This route is full bolted as a Alt line to Safe Haven's anchors utilizing the face below. The Crux is down low Followed by pumpy climbing. Still needs more cleaning on top | 18m, 5 |