Brána Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

vilda_hkvdf Nicky GregorR

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Brána / Tor 17 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Brána

Summary:

Saisonalität

17 routes in Cliff

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 50.798635, 14.040268

Einschränkungen

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.

Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).

übernommen von Ostrov

Ethik

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.
No changing of the rock surface.
No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.
No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)
First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/
Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

übernommen von Labské pískovce

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Stará cesta / Alter Weg	II	Traditionell
2	Varianta Staré cesty / Variante zum Alten Weg Wand	III	Traditionell
3	!Jihovýchodní hrana / Südostkante	VI	Traditionell
4	Siciliánka / Sizilianerin SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa Erstbegehung: Karel Bělina & J.Hanuš, 1980	VIIa	Gemischt trad 1
5	Lancknecht / Landsknecht Erstbegehung: Karel Bělina, K.Frič & F.Žid, 1980	VIIb	Gemischt trad 1
6	Čupr holka SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIb Erstbegehung: Petr Vlasák & F.Šebesta, 1995	VIIb	Gemischt trad 1
7	Západní komín / Westkamin Erstbegehung: Heinz Walther & D.Prautzsch, 1974	III	Traditionell
8	★★ Heureka Erstbegehung: Karel Bělina, J.Hofman & L.Perk, 1974	VIIb	Gemischt trad 1
9	Severozápadní hrana / Nordwestkante SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V Erstbegehung: Karel Bělina, J.Hofman & Z.Bezdíček, 1974	V	Gemischt trad 1
10	Varianta SZ hrany / Variante zur NW-Kante SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIIb Erstbegehung: Ondřej Huml & F.Mezera	VIIIb	Gemischt trad 2
11	★★ Náhorní cesta / Schartenweg Erstbegehung: Gerhard Tschunko & W.Bruch, 1973	VIIa	Gemischt trad 12m, 1
12	!Severní cesta / Nordweg SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V Erstbegehung: Karel Bělina & M.Daníček, 1974	V	Traditionell
13	★★ Severní žebro / Nordrippe	III	Traditionell
14	Kozlice / Bockflinte Erstbegehung: Jan Voves & M.Javorský, 1983	IV	Traditionell
15	Procházka / Spaziergang Erstbegehung: Michael Bellmann & H.Krönert u.Gef., 1998	II	Traditionell
16	Východní cesta / Ostweg Erstbegehung: Helmut Marx & U.Franke, 1974	III	Traditionell
17	Gag Erstbegehung: Michael Bellmann & H.Krönert, 1997	III	Traditionell

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
II		Procházka	Traditionell
		Stará cesta	Traditionell
III		Gag	Traditionell
	★★	Severní žebro	Traditionell
		Varianta Staré cesty	Traditionell
		Východní cesta	Traditionell
		Západní komín	Traditionell
IV		Kozlice	Traditionell
V		!Severní cesta	Traditionell
		Severozápadní hrana	Gemischt trad 1
VI		!Jihovýchodní hrana	Traditionell
VIIa	★★	Náhorní cesta	Gemischt trad 12m, 1
		Siciliánka	Gemischt trad 1
VIIb	★★	Heureka	Gemischt trad 1
		Lancknecht	Gemischt trad 1
		Čupr holka	Gemischt trad 1
VIIIb		Varianta SZ hrany	Gemischt trad 2