Routen als alpin in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

From the hut, walk up N/NE around the base of east face of the Dibona until you reach the foot of the Brèche des Clochetons. Scramble up towards the left on some very easy slabs to find the start of the route at the base of the obvious couloir leading to the Brèche des Clochetons, left of the Clochetons Gunneng.

All pitches are approx. 40m, requiring up to 7 draws.

1. approx. 40m (5a, crux) Head up the slab slightly towards the left, aiming for a small overhang. Below the overhand, traverse to the left for a few steps. A moderately high rockover move on the left foot gets you just below the first belay (3 bolts, cordelette).

2. approx. 40m (4c) Head straight up the slab from the first belay until the bolts start veering off to the right. Traverse right as soon as possible using the obvious line until you are almost below the second belay (3 bolts, cordelette).

3. approx. 40m (3c) Head straight up the easy slabs, obvious line.

4. approx. 40m (3c) Head straight up the easy slabs, obvious line.

5. approx. 40m (3c) From the 4th belay, head diagonally up to the left, crossing over a couloir coming down from the base of the Clochetons, and continue up and leftward towards the Brèche des Clochetons. The last belay (2 bolts, cordelette) is located on the arète with a comfortable platform on the other side.

Combinaison des arêtes S et E de l'Aiguille Occidentale, et des arêtes W et S de l'Aiguille Centrale du Soreiller.

Moderately long alpine route (PD, III) on the south face of the Flambeau des Écrins (3550m). Routefinding is quite straightforward (route clearly visible from the hut). Follow the path towards the Col des Avalanches starting from the Temple-Écrins hut until approx. 2500-2600m, before branching off to the left and crossing the cirque (a few cairns in the moraine give an idea of the path) to reach the snow slopes at the base of the Flambeau des écrins. Head up the slopes following the path of least resistance to reach a first shoulder just above 3000m, then up a steeper slope up and to the right (max. incline 50°) to reach a shoulder and easy ridge near 3350m. Follow it up to the base of the rocky summit pyramid (approx. 30m, 3b). Descent via the same itinerary.

Easy (PD, III) but long alpine route offering an alternative to the normal route when snow is abundant. From the Temple-Écrins hut, follow the path towards the Col de la Temple slightly above 3100m, then branch off N/NE up the snow slopes towards the south face of Pic Coolidge. Around 3300m an obvious couloir becomes visible to the right (due east) leading up to the south arete of the peak. Climb the couloir (approx. 100m, mixed climbing, 45°) to reach said arete. Head north up the easy snow slopes to reach the final summit ridge up to the secondary summit. From there, a short exposed northward ridge leads to a downclimb and final 20m pitch to reach the true summit. The descent follows the same route. In the steep couloir, a rappel on the right when climbing up (south) allows skipping the downclimb of the trickier lower section of the couloir (50m-60m, depending on conditions in the lower couloir, 1 piton).

A long mountaineering route with complex route-finding. Several transitions from rock to ice/snow and back. First pitch is often icy and can be tricky otherwise the "cable" pitch is the hardest at 4b but on solid rock. In general there are a lot of loose rocks on the route. Start from La Berarde walk to Refuge Temple des Écrins then hike up moraine and snowfield to around 3,300m to start route

The route takes the ridge that leads up to the foot of the NNE ridge of the L'M

A fairly steep climb with some short hard passages. 6a+/A0 or 6c free. Limited fixed pro, belays may need back-up

Free up to 7c climbing, otherwise 6b/A1. Remote setting and one of the steepest faces in Chamonix area.

Starts up the Rebuffat/Terray for 150m then continues direct where the Rebuffat/Terray steps slightly right. Jon Bracey told UKC: "After ~200m of beautiful ice climbing, Beyond Reason then breaches the steep and intimidating rocky headwall by a series of hidden ice runnel, cracks, and exposed mixed climbing."

Source UKC

Nice ridge climb. Climbing is not sustained, and belays are comfortable.

A long scramble approach that requires route-finding skills to get to the summit pyramid. The summit pyramid contains 9 pitches of climbing with traversers. Alpine classic.

Route climbs North butress and arrive at 3rd tower of the Pappions ridge.

A classic varied climb with cracks, corners and chimneys on sound solid rock.

starts with a gully, M5 dry step, snow field, thin ice, last AI4+ step.

Must do direct line, alternating crack (no fixed gear) and slabs (bolted). The 7a section is a short 10 m with 3 bolts, the rest is sustained with everything between 6b and 6c

Belays in place and some bolts

Long snow / ice climb under hanging glacier (Serac). Preferably climbed in winter. Ice up to 70 degrees.

Classic long mixed climb under and to the left of cable car to Aiguille du Midi. Short passage of grade 5 climbing and 70 degrees ice

Excellent introduction to alpine north faces, easy approach and safe descent using the lift. The climb is hard to protect as it is mainly a snow climb. The crux pitch is easily protected if you desire to pitch it.

Up through the glorious roof crack on the left of the face then on to the top.

Approach on glacier

Too popular.

The normal way up Mt Blanc and used in descent for most cases. Normal starting point is Les Houches where you take the cable car and then train to Nid d'Aigle 2372m. There is a couloir below refuge Gouter that is exposed to stonefall, caution. From refuge Gouter 3817m follow rigde to Dome du Goûter then ridge to summit.

A long and classic way to ascend Mt Blanc. Route is technically easy but a long glacial outing exposed to Serac fall which makes chosing good conditions and timing important. From Col du Midi some 600m up to Mt Blanc du Tacul. Then descending to Col Maudit 4029 and from here som 300m to pass around Mont Maudit and then finally 500m from here to summit.

A grand route on high altitude mainly on Snow up to 45 degrees. Starting point Ghiglione hut 3690m.

This ascent starts in the bionnassay parking lot and follows the ascent up to Nid d’aigle. Follow the trail above the Bionnassay glacier up to the Tete Rousse refuge. Put on crampons to cross the Grand Couloir while maintaining vigilance for rock fall, which is frequent. Remove crampons and ascend the Aguille Gouter to the Gouter Refuge. Ascend To Dome d’ Gouter toward the summit ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit. Average time for this route is 2-3 days with rest at one or more of the refuges. Best to rest at the Gouter Refuge after summit day before descending 2600 meters to the Bionnassay parking area, though some try to do it all in a single push. These days most people take the lift up but starting in Bionnassay is the original way summitted in 1786. This route is historically regarded as the beginning of mountaineering.

The route of the first ascensionists. A long glacier climb starting at Plan du Midi

Narrow ice/mixed goulotte going up to Col du Maudit. Up to 85 degrees ice

Follows left edge of Triangle Rocheuax du Tacul. Approach on glacier.

Start up a ice runnel far L on face to reach a R slanting gully. Follow this for 2 piches up to a faint butress in the face. CLimb straigh up to snowband and traverse L to find a weak line through the top rocks before reaching the L flank of the Triangle about half way up.

Nice mixed climb as introduction to alpine mixed climbing. Follows the left side of the N-triangle Rocheux