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Amazing finger crack, might be unique in the Frankenjura (at least I haven't found something like this at any other crag here, yet). The actual crack isn't too long, but it starts off with a little bulge. Once you've committed to the finger locks and brought your feet up, it gets slabby, but still demanding because the crack has so few places where you can jam your fingers.
Struggled with rope drag quite a bit, because I didn't have much gear left and I used a carabiner at the belay below the roof. This probably has been bolted in more recent times, unsure where the original line was, but it's a good finish through black rock.
Deluxe hand crack. It's crucial to find all the best jams and avoid trying to layback or use too many holds on the outside. Joins the original finish of "Alte Rotwand" at the little cave. I climbed up all the way through the crack, but there's no dedicated anchor. Climbed down to the last Bühler bolt, then a little left through the finishing headwall to an anchor.
The easiest line through the left part of the wall, and quite a good one at that. Nice little traverse on the narrow ledge in the middle. Only climbed up to the belay ring below the roof, the original second pitch traverses left to the little cave and then up the crack. There are a few other options here, it seems like the right-hand finishes got more popular later on.
A long and relaxed traverse through the right part of the wall. First up to the protruding block, then all the way left and a little up to a retracted belay. Pitch 2 is hardly ever done nowadays. There are no more bolts, so take a good arsenal. Also, you shouldn't be scared of vegetation, because it's especially green. From the belay, traverse left, then a little down and further left to an obvious break where it's easy to pass the little bulge. From here, always straight up in the direction of the obvious dihedral below the summit. Bring up the second, and enjoy a shortrest on the bench.
