Routen in Kalama conservancy

Start at the viewpoint where a boulder pillar allows access to slab on main wall.

1. 45m 4c. Climb pillar step onto slab and traverse boldly L 4m till good holds lead to easier grassy slabs. Up these, good runner, then move R and up to more grassy slabs and a small tree belay below the final headwall.

2. 10m. Traverse R over white slab to gain ledges, belay on R by tree.

3. 15m 4c. Pull up R-wards, using small flakes, onto a small ledge. Runner. Move R till a step up R reaches easier grassy ground. Up this trending R to belay on thorny bush (or scramble 5m to top, various belays).

See video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EjjKqxNZWA

1. 30m 4a. Climb the break to small trees and the comfortable ledge at the end of pitch

2. As for pitch 3 of The Thumb

Good climbing, rather bold initially! Start at the base of the cliff, just to the R of a point where to the L walls become darker and blank.

1. 50m 5a. Climb steeply up to a slight out-jutting horn at 6m, runner. Move R to a loose flake now continue up finding easiest line. Work L to the base of an easy scoop, take a good belay some 4m up by a deep hole.

2. 40m 4c. Move diagonally up and R till a hidden R-facing crackline provides welcome runners. Move up the crack then step R and gain easier ground. Follow this under vertical wall to tree belay on the N ridge of the Thumb. An easy scramble leads pleasantly to a fine viewpoint on the ridge below the final tower. From here a good path leads down - or continue up The Thumb.

(description via Andrew Wielochowski)

See video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvOzAB8j5Eg

Climb the face of the Thumb to a tree and up.

1. 45m 4b. Up the initial slab, then followed the shiny ramp line trending L to R then out R and back up L to tree. Bold.

2. 40m. 4a. Straight up to the top.

This climbs takes the easiest line some 20m L of the overhanging bulge/line wall near the R end of the cliffs. 50m rope essential.

Wander up finding the easiest line. A steady leader is useful as protection is sparse. Belay on trees at the top. Abseil or walk off.

The climb starts about centre of the crag on the bottom L point of a giant X.

1. 36m 4a. There is an obvious shallow line which rises to the R, pass some rather hollow sounding rock and protection, above there is a rounded bulge to the R. Go over it and move up to the tree belay.

2. 45m 5a. Go straight up, not the easy staircase to the R. Great gear placements and nice warm up moves for about 5m. Then you start to get funnelled as the face becomes steep and gets sparse on holds, your forced R, across a small face into a groove, protection. Fine 5a climbing follows. Get above this and whilst in a tight chimney get some protection in before pushing out onto the L face, you naturally go up a crack, the crack becomes a groove, the groove becomes a gully, then you top out onto a wonderful shelf to amazing views of the Cat & mouse and Olokwe to the N.