Begehungen in Neuseeland als Onsight von Vanessa Wills

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	Schwierigkeitsgrad	Route	Stil	Qualität
Sa 13. Okt 2018 - Wharepapa Rock
Bumbly's Buttress
	19	★★ Speedy Gonzales	Sport 15m, 4	★★ Sehr gut
This felt pretty hard for the grade. Some sneaky knee bars and lots of bridging
	21	★ El Rayo-X	Sport 20m, 4	★ Gut
Felt easier than the 19 and 20s....
Do 11. Okt 2018 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	22	★★★ Rohans Arete	Sport 28m, 11	★★ Sehr gut
Lovely climbing. If I didn’t have a toothache today and was enjoying myself more, I may have given it classic
Mi 10. Okt 2018 - Kinloch
Kinloch Crag (K1) CLOSED
	20	★★ Electric Wizard	Sport 15m, 4	★ Gut
Excellent rock and interesting moves between pockets
	14	★ Waiting For The Ant	Sport 7m, 3	Durchschnitt
Getting used to the rock, it looks slippery
Sa 6. Okt 2018 - Waipari
Bete Noire Wall
	20	★ Ignimbrite	Sport 20m, 7	Vergiss es
Climbs essentially the same as the crack, it should be further right and go up the groove and it might be ok
	19	★ The Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt	Sport 18m, 6	★ Gut
A bit of crack climbing up high, hard start on sore fingers
	19	★ Streetwise	Sport 15m, 6	★ Gut
Stout warm up due to pocket finding trouble
Sa 6. Okt 2018 - Waipari
Main Cliff
	16	★ Serife	Sport 20m, 5	★★ Sehr gut
Really liked this for the grade
	17	★ Climatic Conclusion	Sport 20m, 7	★ Gut
	19	★★ Climatic Extension	Sport 25m, 11	★★ Sehr gut
The finish makes the climb, though I didn’t find the start that easy
	17	★ Thunder Blaster	Sport 20m, 7	★ Gut
Nice easy jugging with a steeper finish
	18	★ Power Pack	Sport 8m, 3	Vergiss es
Dirty and short
	19	★ Total Energy	Sport 13m, 5	★ Gut
Nice, but fairly soft grade
Fr 5. Okt 2018 - Wharepapa Rock
Lower Tier
	17	★★ Girls, Girls, Girls	Sport 20m, 7	Durchschnitt
This was the first one we got on, generic pocket pulling
	16	★ The Grim Reamer	Sport 16m, 5	★ Gut
Had a steep groove to add interest
	16	★★ Fun Bags	Sport 20m, 6	★★ Sehr gut
Steep fun juggy pockets
	17	★★ Virgin On Easy	Sport 23m, 9	★★ Sehr gut
Nice positions, almost like tufa climbing instead of tuff climbing
	20 18	★★ Reamed By Percentage	Sport 24m, 8	★ Gut
From under the roof I went up left side and then back over nose rather than bailing into the 17. Felt substantially harder than 18 but was very fun
Do 4. Okt 2018 - Waipari
Bete Noire Wall
	19	★ Volcanic	Sport 18m, 7	★★ Sehr gut
Really liked this, steep, face and slab styles
So 3. Apr 2016 - Hanging Rock
West End
	15	★★ Speed King	Sport 22m	★ Gut
Quite hard getting established on this if short
Sa 2. Apr 2016 - Motatapu Valley
Roadside Area Al Cove
	23 22	★★ Ferocious Weasel	Sport 20m, 8	★ Gut
Not too hard
	23	★★ Roche Moutonnee	Sport 16m, 8	★★ Sehr gut
Great novelty roof with per madras
	20	★ Cunning Linguistics	Sport 16m, 5	★★ Sehr gut
I made the top roof harder than needed
	22	★★ The Colonel's Secret	Sport 16m, 6	★ Gut
The draws were on to below crux. Felt pretty slippery, I appreciated the hand jams
Do 31. Mär 2016 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Main Wall
	20	★ You Crack Me Up	Sport 25m, 5	★ Gut
Feels easier than 20 now that you don't need to place gear
Do 31. Mär 2016 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall
	18	★★ Te Whanau	Sport 20m, 5	★★ Sehr gut
Some time in the past, Rpt warm up today. Hard start
	17	★ Terrain Spotting	Sport 20m, 6	★ Gut
Some time in the past
	17	★ Get Kerfuffled	Sport 20m, 8	★ Gut
Sometime maybe 2010.
Mi 30. Mär 2016 - The Chasm
	22	★ Granite Gringo	Sport 15m, 3	★ Gut
Rock not as nice as at right hand end, some tricky moves
Di 29. Mär 2016 - Castledowns
Bunny Gully
	17	★ Johnny Walker Wisdom	Sport 22m, 7	★ Gut
A hidden hold under the matagouri
Mi 23. Mär 2016 - Mapoutahi
Main Wall
	19	★ Greek Gift 2	Sport 20m, 8	★ Gut
Feels quite airy
	20	★ Like a Lover Scorned	Sport 25m, 6	★ Gut
Some interesting arête moves if the sidepulls out of reach
Mi 23. Mär 2016 - Mapoutahi
Eldorado Wall
	19	★ Jospe/Carr Route (When Yuppies Go to Hell)	Sport 25m, 10	★ Gut
Some moments of interesting climbing up groove
So 20. Mär 2016 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach
The Caves
	18	★ Purple haze	Sport 10m, 3	Durchschnitt
Some nice jugs then easy run out top
So 12. Mai 2013 - Sheridan Hills
Chunderosa Buttress
	19	★★ School Bus Route	Sport 35m, 13	★★ Sehr gut
Its only 19/20. LOts of good pocket pulling
So 12. Mai 2013 - Sheridan Hills
Flying Cow Buttress
	17	★ Pani Para Chha	Sport 15m, 9	Durchschnitt
Better than appearances
So 12. Mai 2013 - Sheridan Hills
Chunderosa Buttress
	21 20	★★ Hotter than a Hot Thing (Hotter Then a Hot Thing)	Sport 30m, 13	★★ Sehr gut
Is 21 in guide on line
	18	★★ Hannah Louise	Sport 30m, 8	★ Gut
The finish makes this route
	20 19/20	★★ Ball and Chain	Sport 25m, 8	★ Gut
And off to the airport
So 12. Mai 2013 - Bayley Road
River Wall
	19	Sharpe Arete	Sport 12m, 3	Durchschnitt
Easy for grade
So 12. Mai 2013 - Mangaokewa
The Colosseum
	15	★★ French Ethics	Sport 18m, 5	★ Gut
Ok for grade
	20	★ Trojan Kat	Sport 16m, 4	★ Gut
Rock a bit average
	20	Diamond in the Rough	Sport 20m, 5	Schrott
The 4th bolt missing. Bailed onto pr
	17	★ Dogamatrix	Sport 20m, 5	Durchschnitt
It is pouring. It's dry.....
	21	★★ When Cavers go Climbing	Sport 18m, 5	★ Gut
A bit contrived
Di 7. Mai 2013 - Waipapa
Main Cliff Millenium Wall
	22	★★ Sun Dried Tomatoes	Sport 15m, 5	★ Gut
Had some preplaced long draws
Di 7. Mai 2013 - Waipari
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face)
	17	★ Lazy Ass Aucklanders! (Route to left of mba)	Sport 16m, 5	Durchschnitt
The 10th route of the day
	21	★★ Lunar Leopard	Sport 20m, 6	★ Gut
Gymnastic start
Di 7. Mai 2013 - Waipari
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall
	22	★★★ Mister Daddy Long Legs	Sport 20m, 5	★ Gut
Found start hardest without first bolt clipped
Di 7. Mai 2013 - Waipari
Main Cliff
	18	★ Roadweary	Sport 20m, 9	Durchschnitt
	16	★ Bonne Anne (Bonne Annee)	Sport 20m, 7	Durchschnitt
	20	★★★ Monsterpiece Theatre	Sport 25m, 10	★ Gut
	19	★★ Safe Playing	Sport 20m, 8	★ Gut
Mo 17. Sep 2012 - Hospital Flat
Sunnyside
	19	★ Hap Hazard	Sport 19m, 6	★ Gut
Shame about the ledge.
Fr 14. Sep 2012 - Mount Iron
Ironside
	20	A Steep Introduction	Sport 15m, 6	Durchschnitt
A bit escapable
So 10. Jan 2010 - Hospital Flat
Whale Watching
	24	★★ 10 Boy Scouts	Sport 20m, 8	Durchschnitt
kiwis cant crimp
	23	★★ Hobo Humping Slobo Babe	Sport 15m, 5	★ Gut
tricky to chose the right crimp
So 10. Jan 2010 - Hospital Flat
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone
	21 20	★★ Disco Inferno	Sport 15m, 3	★ Gut
arete humping
	17 18	★ Rusty Pins	Sport 15m, 6	★ Gut
tricky in places
So 3. Jan 2010 - Babylon
Left Hand Wall
	17 26	★★ The Obvious Weakness (The Obvious weakness Pitch 1)	Sport 36m	★ Gut
It was dry in the rain
Mi 30. Dez 2009 - Wye Creek
South Side Main Wall
	22	★ No Holds Barred	Sport 27m, 8	★ Gut
Rather well spaced bolts. A full head trip!
Mo 28. Dez 2009 - Wye Creek
North Side Eweniverse Wall
	19	★ Vas-y Mollo (Easy Tiger (vas-y-mollo))	Sport 15m, 5	Durchschnitt
not very memorable
	22	★ Epoxy Passion	Sport 20m, 8	★ Gut
some OK moments. Hard mantle
Mo 12. Okt 2009 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
	22 21	★★ Hard Sun	Sport 82m, 31	★ Gut
Great cleaning effort. Harder than 21
So 11. Okt 2009 - Wye Creek
North Side Eweniverse Wall
	21	★★ Tais-toi!	Sport 22m, 9	★ Gut
A bit of a struggle
Mo 31. Mär 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Beginner’s Slab
	19	★ Cryptology	Sport 10m, 3	Durchschnitt
OK warm up
Sa 29. Mär 2008 - Hospital Flat
The Main Cliff
	17	★★ Headbangers Arete	Sport 20m, 5	★ Gut
Fr 28. Mär 2008 - Wye Creek
South Side Main Wall
	17 18	★ Up the Creek (Up the River)	Sport 30m, 9	★ Gut
Good the first time round, but would get tedious after a while.
	19 20	★★ Smellie Crack	Sport 25m, 10	★★ Sehr gut
Rather tricky for the grade.
Fr 28. Mär 2008 - Wye Creek
North Side Black Wall
	20	★★ Matt's Joke	Sport 20m, 8	★ Gut
Short roof, then more sustained than it looked.
Fr 28. Mär 2008 - Wye Creek
South Side Main Wall
	21	★★★ Dream Thing	Sport 15m, 8	★★ Sehr gut
Sweet roof!
Sa 22. Mär 2008 - The Chasm
	18 20	★★ Another One (MT to CN belay RIGHT)	Sport 15m, 6	Durchschnitt
A few weird slimy traverse moves.
	18 20	★★ Another One (White rope to CN Belay)	Sport 15m, 6	★★★ Klassiker
The best stint of grade18 sports climbing ever. Now I want to do the top pitch
	19 17	★ Unnamed 17 (Mainly Tramping)	Sport 15m, 5	★ Gut
Nice recent addition and a better way onto the wall than the tree.
Mi 19. Mär 2008 - Gorge Road
Main Wall
	18	★★ Dog in Town	Sport 18m, 5	★ Gut
The move over the roof is nice I suppose.
Mo 17. Mär 2008 - Paynes Ford
Globe Wall
	22	★★ Electricorp Production	Sport 17m, 5	★★ Sehr gut
Is the flowstone out? Nice pocket!
So 16. Mär 2008 - Pōhara
Cathedral Rock
	19 18	★★ Stella Blue	Sport 30m, 10	Durchschnitt
Couldnt really get into this one, probably knowing it was the scene of a tragedy.
	18	★★ Ambrosia	Sport 26m, 8	★ Gut
Felt kinda stout at the second bolt.
So 16. Mär 2008 - Paynes Ford
Fish Wall/Rhinoceros Wall
	19	★★ Gobble, Gobble, Yum Yum	Sport	★★ Sehr gut
SUper novelty fun. Just like Thailand!
Fr 14. Mär 2008 - Paynes Ford
Stone Symposium Wall
	20 21	★★ Jimmy The Torn Piece of Paper (Jimmy...)	Sport 10m, 4	★ Gut
the rebolted direct start to Ranger. Nails!
	21	★★★ R for Ranger, D for Danger	Sport 27m, 4	★★ Sehr gut
Some awesome parts, and rather scary
So 9. Mär 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction
	22	★★ Everything but the Formalities	Sport 15m, 6	★★ Sehr gut
Worth the approach up the gungy ramp
	14	Roadside Rage	Sport 8m, 3	Vergiss es
Warming up
Sa 8. Mär 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Garden Bar
	23	★★ Who the Fuck is Nick Cradock? (Who the Fuck is Nick Craddock?)	Sport 25m, 8	★ Gut
nice reachy moves. Probably only 22, but its my style!
Sa 8. Mär 2008 - Diamond Lake
Pencil Dick Wall
	20	★★ Stick It In	Sport 20m, 8	★★ Sehr gut
Would be classic if it wasnt bolted. FIngers to hands.
Fr 7. Mär 2008 - Wye Creek
South Side Main Wall
	17 18	★★ About Time	Sport 30m, 13	★ Gut
Novelty climbing. Weird swirling rock.
	16	★★★ The Mission	Sport 28m, 9	★ Gut
the start doesnt flow. 3 star view though.
	18	★★ Lucalucki	Sport 32m, 13	Durchschnitt
Weird bolting.
Mi 5. Mär 2008 - Hospital Flat
Warm Leatharête
	18 19	★★ Quick Fix	Sport 15m, 5	★ Gut
Quite pumpy
Mi 5. Mär 2008 - Diamond Lake
Hotline Corner
	19	★★★ Fuckity Fuck Fuck	Sport 30m, 12	★★ Sehr gut
Guide book says 6 BR- it has 12!
Mi 5. Mär 2008 - Motatapu Valley
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction
	21	★ I Need a Pie	Sport 17m, 4	★ Gut
Scary bolting
Mi 5. Mär 2008 - Hospital Flat
Warm Leatharête
	19 18	★★ Honey I Bolted The Crack	Sport 15m, 5	★ Gut
Hmm, could well be done on gear
Di 4. Mär 2008 - Diamond Lake
Sharon Stone
	25	★ Wind Me Up (Need to Unwind Direct Finish)	Sport 20m, 7	★ Gut
The guide books crap- but hey I tried hard cos I thought I was on a 23!
Sa 30. Dez 2006 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Beginner’s Slab
	16	Infinite Inveigling (infinite inviegeling)	Sport 10m, 4	Durchschnitt
Fr 31. Mär 2006 - Motatapu Valley
Riverside Beginner’s Slab
	14	★ Right Ascension	Sport 10m, 4
	16	★ Generation X	Sport 10m, 3
	15 14	★ Occupational Therapy	Sport 10m, 4
	15	★ Super Size Me	Sport 10m, 4
Mi 2. Feb 2005 - Twin Stream
Half Moon Slab
	17	★★ Moon Rise	Sport 80m	★★★ Klassiker
first taste of TS perfection. An 80m intricate slab. Best ¨16¨Ive ever done

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Begehungen in Neuseeland als Onsight von Vanessa Wills

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