Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Di 28. Mai 2024 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
6c |
★★ Masl ap ston tako
![]() | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
A variation with its own crux being the traverse to pass to trafos, nice one.
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7a |
★★★ 1-2-3 niaou
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Did it last year, avoids the first blank boulder problem of mpampatzianiki and has some amazing moves on the arête.
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Di 28. Mai 2024 - Paliochori | ||||||
Kremala | ||||||
7a |
★★★ Megas trapos
![]() | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Did it last year, amazing finishing overhanging crux.
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Di 28. Mai 2024 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
7a |
★★ George costanza
![]() | 35m, 17 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Did it last year nice one used knee pad
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7a |
★★ One kick
![]() | 35m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Done it last year, hard crux on the top with some hard to clip draws and some quick decisions.
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7c/c+ |
★★★ Vivere pericolosamente
![]() | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Did it last year, went directly on the first crux ,i think its a bit easier than 8a, 7c/+ is my suggestion.
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Mo 20. Mai 2024 - Nestani | ||||||
Voulomeni | ||||||
6c |
★ Κόμπλα
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice bouldery route, even though the bolting is dense, in the crux its intimidating for the onsight making you do the crux unclipped and having to clip the next bolt once you are almost over it. Its seems though that there used to be a bolt just at the right place so you could have some sense of security while doing this slabby move but it was rebolted?? in this way. Anyhow go for the os if you put the quickdraws from the adjacent route 😛
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Mo 20. Mai 2024 - Lagada | ||||||
Aloni | ||||||
6c |
★★ Hrisomallon Deras
![]() | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Did the crux but bailed afterwards didn't want to climb on a polished corner in this heatwave and with committing run-outs.
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6b+ |
★★ Kremasmenos Tragos
![]() | 25m, 11 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Last of the day could have gone but was to tired to stay on the holds waiting for the person on the left to stop stepping on the shared holds that i wanted to go...
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6b+ |
★★ Gerokoutsouris
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Did the crux but misread the last part and went to a blank part, the best of the easiest of this sector.
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6b |
★ Xeroelatos
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★ Gut | |||
5b |
★ Shake It
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5b+ |
★★ Moro Mou Sorry
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mo 20. Mai 2024 - Lagada | ||||||
Petsanes | ||||||
6a+ |
★ Lykos tou Ragia
![]() | 30m | ||||
Dirty and very close to its left neighbour, i would put the bolts more to the right so people would climb directly into the overhang making it harder but much better.
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5c |
★ Lykourgos
![]() | 20m, 10 | Durchschnitt | |||
Dirty and very close to its right neighbour
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5c+ |
★★ Leonidas
![]() | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6a+ |
★★ The 300
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
The best of this side if the crag
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6b+ |
★★ Dionysos
![]() | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6b |
Orea Eleni
![]() | 25m | Durchschnitt | |||
To do a 6b you need to bypass the crux to the left on the adjacent route, if you stay in the route expect a hard 6c
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6b |
★★ Menelaos
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
6a+ |
★★★ Ermione
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
So 10. Mär 2024 - Solomos | ||||||
6b+ |
★★ Grifos
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6c/c+ ~6c |
★★ Antonis
![]() | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Slabby climbing, a foothold broke and lost the os. 6c/+ according to the bolter seems more appropriate
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6c+ |
★★★ Tsaperdona
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Very very beautiful.
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Sa 9. Mär 2024 - Solomos | ||||||
6c+ |
★★ Enigma
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A bit vegetated at parts and no chalk plus a main hold was blocked by dirt-wasp nest, so very hard to read for the os. Cleaned it and left chalk so good for the os now,at least before the next rain,but hard comparing even with the 7a's at the right part of the crag.
Beautiful wall climbing though.
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6a+ |
★★ Filandia
![]() | 24m, 14 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
6b |
★★★ Trabakoulas
![]() | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
6b+ |
★★ Grifos
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
The main hold at the end of the crux was blocked by dirt nest and had to bail at the os, all cleaned now.
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Sa 6. Jan 2024 - Zaloggo | ||||||
Koloneta | ||||||
6b+/c |
★★★ The strugglers
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Another newbie, a classic to be tufa fest with an easy to spot crux and easier moves on the rest of the route. A bit harder than its 6b+ neighbour to the right so 6b+/c .
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5c+/6a |
★★ Lepista nuda
![]() | 18m, 7 | ||||
New additions to this wonderful crag, the easiest so far but very beautiful nevertheless. A good intro for the sector.
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Do 28. Dez 2023 - Pietra di Bismantova | ||||||
Sasso Diamante Sasso Diamante | ||||||
5c |
★★ Mano Bianca
![]() | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5b |
★ Ciap
![]() | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
6a |
★ La guida
![]() | 10m | ||||
6c |
★ Ale' Ale' Ale'
![]() | 10m | ||||
Too hard for a 6c
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Do 28. Dez 2023 - Monsummano | ||||||
Cava Rossa | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ La setta dell' 8a
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
6b |
★★★ Caterina
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
5c |
★★ Fessure oblique
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
5b |
★★ Les Diables
![]() | 13m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
So 3. Dez 2023 - Merenda | ||||||
Kato Merenda | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Fidelio
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
6a |
★★ Francky Wild
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6c+ |
★★ Mary Popins
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sa 2. Dez 2023 - Solomos | ||||||
6b |
★★ Trypitsa Ext.
![]() | 45m, 15 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
5b |
★★ Trypitsa
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6c |
★★ Gripi
![]() | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
The last jug before the anchor needs cleaning with a hammer cause it's blocked from wasp nests.
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5c+ |
★★ Lais
![]() | 26m, 13 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
6b+ |
★★ Mavri Apolafsi ext.
![]() | 28m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5b |
★★ Mavri Apolafsi
![]() | 14m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Do 20. Jul 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Deos lower | ||||||
7a schwer |
Morchella esculenta
![]() | 25m, 11 | ||||
A long and enjoyable route right on the edge of the canyon on a magnificent place, with lots of endurancy moves that culminate at a hard rock over to get over the lip and to the final slab. Hard
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Sa 15. Jul 2023 - Parnitha | ||||||
Korakofolia Main Wall | ||||||
7c |
★★ Thima
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Lost the trail and did 40min approach instead of 10 at maybe the hottest day of the summer (40 degrees at the crag), decided to try this one😛😛 did most of the moves most of the crux was impossible in this heat....at least we had korakofolia all to ourselves in a summer day a rarity but makes a lot of sense.
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Do 13. Jul 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Deos lower | ||||||
7a/a+ |
Einai exthros mou
![]() | 20m, 9 | ||||
A hard traverse right after the crux makes for the grade 7a/+
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6c/c+ |
★★ Einai filos mou
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Some morpho moves at the crux
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7a |
★★★ Tsipouro probatina 8a se ena mina
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Another short beauty
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7a+ |
★★ Verpa bohemica
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Power endurance
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6c |
★★ Verpa conica
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Shortie but unforgiving
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6b+/c |
★★★ Los zombies hippies
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Very beautiful cruxy finale on pockets
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6b+ |
★★ Primula vulgaris
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Endurancy first part and cryxy finale
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6b/b+ |
★★ Art Vandelay
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Hard start to cruxy water groove
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Do 13. Jul 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Natural mystic | ||||||
7a/a+ |
★★ Blocololopoulos
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
a hard power endurance crux a bit morpho 7a/+
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Do 13. Jul 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
6c |
★★ Mikros timpanistis
![]() | 30m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
long and enjoyable moves on tufa territory
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6a+ |
★★ Mikros timpanistis (first part)
![]() | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
an airy crux on good holds nice one
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7c |
★★★ Madly dangerous
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
one of the best power endurance routes i have ever climbed, 2 very diferrent parts with minimum rest and very beatyfull moves a must.
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7b |
★★★ Leno in pericolo
![]() | 15m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
The first crux of vivere pericolosmente, a hard slab on very thin long moves on small crimps and ver bad feet. Not classic cause its a bit morpho thus the slash grade.
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Sa 8. Jul 2023 - Kanjon Resave, Beljanica | ||||||
Opservatorija | ||||||
6b |
Aj ti
![]() | Durchschnitt | ||||
Lost in the upper part had some choss and need cleaning , very beautiful first part
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7b+ |
★★ Galileo
![]() | 9m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Did all the moves apart the first draw that was wet
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6a |
★★ Tiho Brahe
![]() | 9m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Very beautiful route unfortunately wet in parts
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Do 6. Jul 2023 - Niševačka klisura, Svrljig | ||||||
Ždrelo Crvena ploča | ||||||
7c |
★★★ Agonija
![]() | 11m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Very nice wall climbing, tried to get an idea of the difficulty. Did the second easier part foumd out most of the moves in the first one, impossible to do them in this heat.
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Do 6. Jul 2023 - Sofia | ||||||
Vitosha Kominite Goren komin Iztochno krilo | ||||||
4b |
★★★ Roshavoto
![]() | 45m, 15 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Led first pitch
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Di 4. Jul 2023 - Kostenets | ||||||
Nad patya | ||||||
6b+ |
★★★ WiFi
![]() | 16m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Saw some locals trying it anf gave a flash try. Sometimes is better to trust your initial thoughts cause i saw them trying to do the crux from the right side that is a very hard beta and definitely not 6b+. Instead my thoughts where to stay on the direct to left side.
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6a |
★★★ Gushter v kosata
![]() | 17m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Very very beautiful especially in thr arete
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5c+ |
★★ Defitsitna radost za naroda
![]() | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Long and enjoyable
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6a+ |
★★★ Hotel Kalifornia
![]() | 30m, 14 | ★ Gut | |||
Very average and slimy first part but amazing laybacking second.
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Di 6. Jun 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
7b |
★★★ Papa al.
![]() | 10m, 5 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Finally this highball went down, 7a+ if you have the flexibility of a yoga teacher like the first ascender, 7b for "normal" people. But for me very very hard i don't know if it were for the very bad conditions or if this route was just a bad nemesis for me. Gave it so many tries like i would in a route above the 8a grade and in the end the send try was a very bad one i had to dig very deep and it never felt easy as it would normally feel in any other route after so many tries.
Hopefully it ended and now i can focus on some harder projects that will go down in less tries😁.
As for the climbing a superb marble highball if i graded as a boulder i would say 7A. Kneepads are needed
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So 9. Apr 2023 - Orbetello | ||||||
Canne d'organo Settore Grotta | ||||||
7a |
★★ Senza via di scampo
![]() | 14m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A bit confusing but when you find the right beta very nice, felt easier.
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6a |
★★ Via dello scampo
![]() | 90m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice route
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Do 23. Feb 2023 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon The raccoons | ||||||
7a |
★ Schaeffer
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★ Gut | |||
The direct variation of the crux of Cyril sneer, a hard 6B+ boulder prob. on a small incut but slippery crimp. Needs cold temps and maybe harder for the short.
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So 22. Jan 2023 - Parnitha | ||||||
Fyli Climbing Park Alogopetra area Pano Alogopetra | ||||||
6c |
★★ Koulouvahata
![]() | 27m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very nice wall climbing
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6a+ |
★★ Kolosseo
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice one
|
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6c |
★★ Babylino
![]() | 12m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Didn't read it well , but wouldn't have gone cause of the very polished footholds at the crux, found a beta fir the crux without the polished section.
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Sa 21. Jan 2023 - Ermionida | ||||||
Thermissia Castle Venetian Wall | ||||||
6a |
★★ In the Red Corner
![]() | 18m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Strange start helps if you're flexible and then a really nice crack.
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7a |
★★★ The Leading Edge (direct)
![]() | 14m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
A hard traverse on smears to reach the arete, could have gone if it weren't for the heavy winds
|
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Sa 21. Jan 2023 - Ermionida | ||||||
Katafyki Ravine Welcome | ||||||
6c+ |
★★★ Sidestep
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
6c on thd free local guide, really nice crux moves on the overhanging corner, easier after that but enjoyable
|
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7a |
★★★ Savage Girl
![]() | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
7a in the local free guidebook, very nice climbing with 3 cruxes with the late 2 on desperate wall moves.
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Mi 18. Jan 2023 - Aliakmonas | ||||||
7a |
★ Karagiozis/Karagiozakos
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Followed the chalk and lost the os, a bit slippery and polished crack. Later found much easier beta than the one used for the crux but due to rain and cold didn't give a proper attempt.
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6b |
★★ Moggolian street
![]() | 70m, 20 | ★ Gut | |||
First pitch only 5c
|
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So 4. Dez 2022 - Nafplio | ||||||
Kato Kosmos | ||||||
7b+ |
★★★ Kerberos
![]() | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Even though i was very tired i went to see it bolt to bolt to check the grades of my f.a. back home. I managed to do all the moves and would have gone second max third try if i was at 100%. Amazing route on tufas not that hard to os if you have thd power.
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6b+/c |
★★ Hermes
![]() | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Lost it cause the rope stuck at the tufa otherwise very good.
|
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6c |
★★ Hades
![]() | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Another classic, amazing moves on tufas.
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6c+ |
★★ Acherontas
![]() | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Hard to os + no chalk but i read it good and did the crux but didn't have the Juice necessary to finish it after 7 days climbing in a row so i lost it at the last moves before the anchor. Amazing route tricky to os but no that hard overall a must for sure.
|
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5c+/6a |
★★ Samsara
![]() | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Very beautiful
|
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Sa 3. Dez 2022 - Parnitha | ||||||
Fyli Climbing Park EPOS Fylis / Mikri Varassova EPOS Fylis | ||||||
5c+ |
★★ Iliovasilema
![]() | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Again felt easier but real nice
|
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5c |
★★ Panselinos
![]() | 21m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Felt much easier but nice
|
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6c |
★★ Arpages
![]() | 30m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Hard to os specially if you follow the chalk, found easier beta after i fell. Not that hard considering that the rest of the route is easygoing but harder than the other 6c of the sector.
|
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Fr 2. Dez 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon The raccoons | ||||||
6a+/b |
★★ Mr mammoth
![]() | 30m, 16 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
The latest addition at "raccoons" sector, long and enjoyable with crux on long moves on jugs.
|
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Di 29. Nov 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon Tekmon Main | ||||||
7b+/c |
★★★ Unfazed
![]() | 32m, 11 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Really hard to grade this one, hard 7a+ till the last bolt and with a hard very technical boulder problem that finishes with huge foot-off swing on sloppery/slippery "jugs" to get to the anchor. For sure very morpho and my style totally so will leave it at 7b+/c for now.
|
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So 13. Nov 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon The raccoons | ||||||
5b+ |
★★ Sophia tutu
![]() | 12m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A new addition, slab start to pocketed wall. A good warm-up for the sector or a good route for the first lead.
|
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So 13. Nov 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon Tekmon Main | ||||||
7b+ |
★★★ Tony the Tiger
![]() | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
A contender for the best route of the crag: slab and tufas start to hard crimpy first crux to overhang on good holds with desperate balancy slab finish second crux to overhanging finale... An amazing route that needs finger strength, good footwork/flexibility and endurance.
|
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So 25. Sep 2022 - Pades | ||||||
First Area middle | ||||||
6b |
★ Nimo
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★ Gut | |||
Hard slab bouldery start then easier slab.
|
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Sa 17. Sep 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
6b 6b/b+ |
★★ Tsoumpa flor
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Bolted this one for the boulder problem in the start, a marble delicacy. After that a very easy slab to the anchor.
|
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Sa 17. Sep 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Kremala | ||||||
6c |
★★ Verliga
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Starts with the first 2 bolts of tsoukarela and then continues to the left. A hard but with beautiful marble features middle part with a crux involving a small 2 finger pocket.
|
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Di 13. Sep 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
7a+ |
★★ G.furnaris
![]() | 30m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very hard bouldery start and unfortunately very morphological for the short every other alternative beta is very very hard. One of those routes that u enjoy only when u send and never try again.
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