We add an anchor on the right side, for top rope use. The large crack/chimney in the middle of the wall. 1) Grade 15, 6 bolts. 2) Grade 20, 8 bolts. NOTE: New anchor on the right side for top rope use of the first pitch. Added new bolt at the beggining to make it safer for begginners.
21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.
This nice climb starts a few meters to the right of the route "My Big Toe". There are some run outs in this route. The route was done by climbing and bolting from the bottom without prior establishing of bolts bias the use of a top rope.
Set:Lina Schneeweiß, Tilmann Hartmann, Emilia Schönherr & Paul Grotheer
30m (G3) Climb the steep crack (mostly G2 and G3). When the holds run out, make a hard traverse (G3) left and up on small knobs. Move back into the crack and up onto a stance about 5m below the roof.
30m (G2) Traverse right on small holds to a recess which yields some protection. Continue railing to the end of the roof. Move up on the right to an easy traverse line back left. Where this ends (directly above previous stance) drop down and rail into the flared open book on the left. Climb this with difficulty and then onto the face above and through rightwards to a large flake. Climb this to a stance on the left.
30m (F3) Climb the recess on the left to a grassy ledge where a scramble to the right leads to easy ground and convenient abseil trees.
The climb starts 10m to the right of where the boundary fence
terminates against the rock face. This is about 100m to the right of
the start of Hanglip Frontal.
25m (F2) Ascend the steep recess to a ledge on top of a protruding
spike.
20m (G1) Continue up awkwardly on thin holds, move over to the left
and climb up to some chockstones.
25m (F3) Continue up to a small tree under an overhang. Climb the
recess above and exit out to the left. Move diagonally left then up a
recess to a stance.
30m (F2) Climb the recess above to just below overhangs. Traverse
awkardly left around a bulge until it is possible to climb up
diagonally right then up through a break to a stance at a small fig
tree.
45m (F2) Ascend the corner above for 3m then traverse right about
6m. Climb up to the grass band. The top section goes up the very
prominent recess which goes straight to the top (to the right of the
leaning pillar). Beacon.
25m (F3) Climb up on left then back right into recess. Climb a
small overhang (fixed peg below) and continue up passing a smooth open
book until reaching a cave.
22m (F3) Climb out on the right side of the cave then up to a
ledge.
40m (G2 A0) Climb the recess above, move slightly right then back
left into upper recess. Climb delicately up to under an overhang. Pull
up onto a narrow ledge using one aid handhold (A0). Continue
delicately up to a small open book. Move up then right and through a
crack to a ledge. Climb up a crack then diagonally right to a ledge
beneath an overhang.
25m (G3) Move up and strenuously climb the overhang. Continue up
the stepp recess (F3) until it is possible to climb right and up to a
ledge.
This short route is on the west face of a large boulder on the true left of the valley directly below the cave. Standing in the cave, the boulder is below (south) of the striking, bulgy wall, directly across the valley. The route climbs the A-shaped corner.
15m 20 After Tricky take-off, climb corner to rail. Finish up left on jugs.
Start about 125 metres right of the base of the descent ramp. The initial cornercrack
is situated 30 metres right of a large right-facing dihedral, and 15 metres left of
an orange slab capped by an arch.
42m 17 Climb the corner-crack for a few metres, and continue up the rightleaning
break to a ledge. Step off a short pillar on the right, turn the overhang,
and traverse left to move up to a stance a few metres beneath a long roof. One
is now a couple of metres left of the start.
25m 20 Climb diagonally left over red rock, then rail left around an arête using a
dubious looking block. Climb up and right to a steep recess which is used to pull
through the roofs to a ledge on the right.
40m 19 Move up the left-leaning ramp from the left end of the ledge to beneath
the overhang. Traverse right until able to pull through the overhangs. Climb
diagonally leftwards, then blast straight up the grey face (not much pro) to easier
rock and the highest ledge, a few metres beneath on obvious triangular roof.
40m 17 Move up a couple of metres, then right to cross the prominent lefttrending
gully-ramp. Climb diagonally right to gain a short chimney which is used
to reach ledges above.
45m 17 Walk right a few metres. Climb up and traverse left to the arête beneath
the left end of a large roof. Climb up and right to negotiate the bulge above the
roof. Climb the crack and continuation corner above, then move right and up into
a shallow alcove. Exit left and climb a corner to a small ledge on the left beneath
a large roof.
35m 19 Traverse right beneath the roof, around the arête to a narrow ledge. Go
right until able to gain the diagonal break leading up leftwards, through a small
yellow wood tree. Continue traversing leftwards around arête (some way out in
space) then climb a grey recess to a stance.
45m 18 Move left and up, and traverse back right into a recess. Climb up to a
crack, which is climbed past a small tree. Keep left and climb up until able to rail
right to easier ground. Continue to the end of the rope.
A sustained climb on excellent rock, which ascends between LEFT FACE and
GREAT GULLY. Start 15m right of the leftward slanting recess about 80m right of
the alternate start of LEFT FACE, and 80m left of the GREAT GULLY. Start at a
boulder below a prominent tree 25m up, which is just to the right of a large overhang
stretching leftwards to the leftward-slanting recess. The first two pitches may be
avoided by scrambling (7/10) up the recess to the large grass ledge.
45m 16 Climb straight up to a slight arête and climb this, passing about 5m to
the right of the prominent tree, to a ledge on the right. Climb the face above,
bearing slightly left to stance.
40m 16 Head straight up then left near the top, to the vast grass ledge from
which the leftward-slanting ramp of the middle section of LEFT FACE starts.
Walk leftwards across the top of the leftward-slanting recess mentioned in the start,
and scramble up from a point 30m further left (about 20m right of the start of the
ramp). Scramble up 10m and then 8m right to the foot of a prominent rock slab
leaning against the face, leading to a small overhang 6m up.
45m 19A2 Climb left-hand edge of slab for 3m. Swing right and climb slanting
crack to overhang. Step back down and right to crack at right-hand side of slab.
Climb to overhang past some loose flakes, and continue up shallow depression
above using two aid points. Climb delicately to a rail. Swing left and up into
corner and move up 2m to stance. Move diagonally right for 2m to crack which is
climbed for 2m before swinging back left on small holds and moving up the
shallow corner to below small overhang. Climb overhang crack above (crux -
originally aided) and continue up and slightly left to awkward resting place right
of two small trees. Step left on detached block and move up to ledge between
the two trees. Move diagonally up right and continue up small recess to stance
on the left.
25m 19 Hand traverse right for 8m to prominent leftward slanting recess. Climb
this, past an overlap on the left, to stance. Continue up leftward slanting recess
to ledge below smooth face. Stance on the left.
40m 20 Traverse 8m right to first recess through face above. Climb up 4m to
small overhang and step left to base of shallow recess above. Move up, swing
right on small holds and climb up awkwardly to a resting point (crux). Continue
up recess above to stance on comfortable ledge above tree.
35m 19 Step right and climb up to crack on the left of large slab. Climb crack
and continue up shallow depression above (crux) to where angle eases.
Continue up another 5m then traverse left for about 8m to tree in main recess.
Scramble up leftwards along bushy ramp and continue leftwards on exposed but
easy rock for about 80m to point just before shallow recess leading up from below.
55m 9 Climb up on right-hand side of recess until able to traverse across it and
continue traversing leftwards over pleasant rock to the top.
LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake.
45m 16 Climb to bottom of flared chimney crack. Step across right to a little foot ledge and pull up. Traverse 1.5m right then ascend face, moving diagonally left as high as possible. Traverse about 8m left to below hanging block. Ascend crack system 2m left of hanging block. Climb face in steps diagonally right to good ledge.
35m 17 Climb up to narrow roof. Traverse 8m to the right. Continue hand traversing 6m to end of traverse line. Pull overhang and climb face to good ledge.
45m 16 Climb slightly diagonally right for about 15m. Traverse left for about 5m via pull-up on block. Follow recess line diagonally left to Grassy Ledge.
Walk to pillar on left of ledge and scramble up to base of crack forming right side of pillar.
30m 15 Climb crack to top of pillar. From top of pillar, climb up another 3m to a good handrail. Hand traverse left for about 15m to a good ledge. The rap chains are hidden by a grass tuft near the stance.
35m 20 (17A1) Climb up via small ledge to bottom of recess (the only one cutting through this face). Use aid (one knife) to get to crack. Follow crack for 5m using another aid point to reach small ledge above. Climb up for 6m and then diagonally left to block (mostly aid climbing with a few free moves). Climb diagonally out right to sloping block. Continue straight up to narrow ledge (originally 3 pitches). This ledge leads leftwards to the Jungle Ledge bivy site.
35m 14 From end of pitch 5 continue up shallow groove for about 10m and then traverse diagonally right to big block.
15m 20 (17A1) Twin Cracks Pitch: Ascend crack left of block with some aid moves, to the left side of the pillar. Continue to top of pillar.
35m 19 (17A1) Climb off-width crack above the ledge (use one sling for aid just below the ledge). Follow chimney-type recess to ledge and stance on right.
20m 12 Climb diagonally right into gully above. Scramble 10m through trees to mouth of deep cave.
40m 14 Climb slabs on left to broken ground.
30m 11 Fight 10m to chossy gully and climb same to top.
Notes:
A #4 Camalot and #4 Friend or equivalent are useful on pitch 8.
FFA:Jerry Linke, H Zangerl, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1981
LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the
highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake (as for
HEY JUDE).
45m 16 Start up the flake and move right at 5m. Climb the slabs trending left to a
flake/crack. Climb this then up and right on good holds to a ledge.
38m 17 Climb up from the right hand edge of the ledge for 8m through small
roof. Amble up another 30m to stance directly above the previous stance on a
good ledge.
30m 15 Climb up on good but improbable looking rock. Trend right and then
stance at the back of the Grassy Ledge (blocks).
Walk to major pillar on left of ledge and scramble up to a ledge at the base of the
right facing corner formed by the pillar.
30m 15 Climb the crack to top of pillar. From top of pillar, climb up another 3m to
a good handrail. Traverse left for about 15m to stance at chains (hidden by a tuft
of grass).
45m 20 Climb past peg (17A1) above into recess. At top of recess, move
through left break (17A1) on to face above. Trend left and then right to reach the
right end of the Jungle Ledge.
55m 18 20m above the ledge are two chimneys. Head for the right hand one and
climb it, then continue past a good ledge up and right and then left to chains.
45m 18 Climb chimney to chains.
30m 13 Scramble out and up to chains.
Stay roped for the scramble to the top.
Notes:
This route was opened as a fast but pleasant outing basically using the rap
ladder in reverse (from the Grassy Ledge upwards!). It climbs parts of HEY
JUDE (pitches 1 and 4), EIGHT MILES HIGH (pitches 2 and 3),
SCATTERLINGS (part of pitch 6) and HALF MOON (remainder of pitch 6 and
pitches 7 and 8).
Pitch 5 was originally graded 18, for this route, but is grade 20 for HEY JUDE.
20 is a fair grade.
About 50m right of the pillar marking the start to LAST MOON is a prominent
overhang about 4m up, increasing in height and size towards the right. The route
starts just to the left of this overhang and takes a line trending slightly to the left, to
below a small line of overhangs about 60m up, which are surmounted on the right.
Start at the base of a short arête, just to the left of the overhang.
30m 18 Climb arête for 4m to ledge and continue up and delicately left, to
resting place just below short steep 4m face right of the crack. Climb up with
difficulty (crux – originally climbed with aid) to ledge, and continue up crack
above for 5m. Traverse 4m right, then move up and back left to small stance in
corner.
30m 16 From stance, traverse 2m left, then climb steep, slightly recessed face
and awkward groove above until able to traverse diagonally left to below steep
crack/recess. Climb this past and continue up some dubious rock to small,
exposed stance about 9m below and to the left of the small line overhangs.
30m 16 Climb crack above stance for 4m, then traverse 8m right to 4m below
the overhang (exposed). Climb up steeply to a crouching ledge below overhang,
then traverse 3m right to where overhang narrows. Climb straight up to ledge
and continue up to short, steep face above to a ledge and comfortable stance.
30m 11 Climb diagonally up right past short section of loose rock. Continue
diagonally rightwards to stance on ledge below short crack where rock steepens.
25m 14 Climb the crack, then step delicately right at the top. Continue diagonally
right to below short, steep face, then traverse right into awkward overhanging
recess breaking through the face. Climb this (strenuous) and continue up and
slightly left to stance in open recess, just below where it steepens again.
30m 16 Step left from stance and move 6m up steep recess until able to step
right onto the lip of overhang directly above stance. Traverse 3m right, then
move up and right on to easier rock. Climb recess above to where it steepens
and continue up with difficulty to small overhang before moving left to stance on
a grassy ledge.
30m 16 Climb 8m diagonally right, then straight up to a steep crack, which is
climbed to a resting place on the right. Climb continuation crack till it is possible
to make a spectacular move left. Move up and further left to comfortable grassy
stance below imposing, steep, red face (possible bivi site for two).
45m 18 Climb face above on good grips, moving right higher up and then back
left past a steep section to ledge below prominent steep crack. Climb crack
(strenuous towards the top) and continue diagonally up left on a steep face
above, to where the angle eases. Stance in small recess.
15m 7 Climb diagonally right over ledges to stance below small tree in a corner.
(It is possible to traverse to the left on to LAST MOON from this point).
35m 14 Traverse right on steep rock to an arête, then move up steeply to where
angle eases. Make a long traverse right over knobbly face to a small recess
where an uncomfortable stance is made just below where the rock steepens.
30m 16 Climb recess past a very steep section to where the angle eases.
Continue up and slightly right to the base of crack in smooth corner leading up to
overhang. Climb the crack, then traverse right to ledge to the right of the
overhang. Continue diagonally up right over smooth slab to below short,
awkward recess, which is climbed to large, guano-filled ledge 5m below a very
steep, narrow chimney. (ANCIENT DUST OF AFRICA shares parts of this pitch).
100
35m 20 (18A2) Climb the steep crack (4 nuts for aid) into the base of chimney
and continue (very strenuous) up this to where the shortly before an overhang.
Climb up the overhang, then move awkwardly out to the left on to on exposed
face. Continue diagonally out to the left, then up to a stance on a big ledge
below a large band of overhangs.
35m 10 Walk 15m right along ledge, past the end of the overhang, then climb up
and back to the left able to scramble to the top.
The first 4 pitches climb between THE RAZORS EDGE and BIG CORNER, and the
remainder of the route is located between NEW MOON and THE RAZORS EDGE.
About 25m of climbing are shared with NEW MOON high up. Start at the platform
about 10m below and left of a tree growing out of the wall, below an easy break.
35m 16 Climb the crack to a ledge. Continue up the left-facing dihedral, and then to the highest ledge on the right.
25m 10 Traverse/walk right.
35m 16 Follow the left leaning ramp until a short traverse leads along a ledge on the left.
40m 14 Climb diagonally left towards a tree at the top of a right-facing corner. Stance on the ledge above and left (directly above the start of the route).
50m 11 Traverse left, up, and left to belay at the grassy base of a right-facing dihedral (THE RAZOR’S EDGE crosses here).
45m 16 Move left around the corner, then climb generally left and up, to stance on a good ledge in a right-facing dihedral, 5m below a roof.
45m 16 Move out left beneath the roof then climb straight up the face, past an overlap, to belay 3m below and right of the apex of a large pillar/flake.
30m 20 Climb up from the top of the pillar, then diagonally left. Climb the left-hand crack to a ledge on the left.
45m 18 Climb up on the left, and continue through an overlap to reach easier
angled rock. As for NEW MOON, traverse right and up to a steep crack which is
followed to a stance on the right.
35m 20 Climb the smooth V-corner, traverse right and across a smooth slab, then move up to a ledge (NEW MOON climbs the corner crack above). Traverse right until able to move up to a stance (the monster dihedral avoided by THE RAZOR’S EDGE lies below).
40m 16 Climb slightly rightwards, leftwards, and then straight up to reach
scrambling territory.
Walk past the Moon Area, go through the boulder squeeze, past the start of
RAZORS EDGE until the face steps back. Up and left are two big open books. The smaller left hand one is BIG CORNER. The massive right hand one is MALEBOCH. Scramble up and diagonally left for a few ropelengths, as per BIG CORNER, to get to a squeeze-through flake. BIG corner heads up left from here, while MALEBOCH heads right.
60m 15 Diagonally left across the rightward-sloping ramp, into the corner. Follow the corner up right to some trees. Continue past the next steep section to belay in the forest below the main corner/gulley.
50m 18R Climb the corner/gulley passing some offwidth sections. Above the last offwidth move right around the overhang and belay just above this.
30m 14 Climb the corner to belay below the next obvious offwidth section.
45m 20R Climb the offwidth to the roof. Step right around the roof to the next bulge. Pull through the bulge, past two bolts to a small ledge. Continue straight up the offwidth above to a tree belay (no pro) or walk left to end of narrow ledge and ascend a face to the tree.
30m 14 Continue up the gulley. Veer left behind the massive block and chimney up past a peg to the top (as for BIG CORNER).
Notes:
The bolts and pitons are dodgy and the route is spicy.
Use the nearby rap route (described elsewhere) to link this route up.
FA:R.F. Davies, P. Scott, H. Liebz, B. Penzhorn & 4 September 1960., 1960
Starts a few meters up 'Four Man Gully' on the true left hand side just to the left of a tree, opposite 'Sidewinder-Direct'. About 15m above are fairly large overhangs.
20m 20 Climb the scooped face for 3m, then climb up to the right until one can traverse right to the arete. Move around this, and climb the corner above to a foothold stance where the rock steepens.
25m 17 Traverse left to the edge of nothing, up and out of sight, to easier ground ledges lead down leftwards to the 4-man chocks). Climb laid-back rock to belay comfortably beneath the final steep section.
Walk up 'Four Man Gully' and start climbing at the first overhangs.
4m 20 Climb up on the true left to a ledge leading South (i.e. on 'Skeerpoort').
40m 8 Walk along this ledge to a stance where the ledge ends. This is the top of 'Rattler'.
15m 13 Climb up easy ground to a large stance from where the impressive brown overhanging face can be seen. The next pitch gets to the base of this face.
15m 20 Traverse right for 3m to a corner. From the corner move right, first on small holds then to a jug. From the jug climb up diagonally right to a stance in another corner. The overhanging brown face is up and to the right.
25m 17 Climb the corner. Move 1m left where the line diverges. Climb past a large roof, which is on the left, by lay-backing a flake. Stance on easy ground.
Note:
Pitch 4 makes it "worthwhile".
FA:George Mallory, Steven Mallory & Peter Lazarus, 1983
Start in the descent gully on the left (west) side of the 'Eureka Buttress', opposite a large tree, the trunk of which forks 8m up (the tree is at the foot of the other wall of the gully.)
20m 20 Ascend 6m, traverse 8m right to base of steep crack which runs up slightly overhanging wall. Ascend crack 8m (5 pitons) to small stance on sloping grey/orange slab. Piton belay.
12m 19 Traverse 5m left, either high or low to crack. Ascend crack 4m. (5 pitons) A good move is made from the last piton over the overhang to the bottom of a flat, more easily sloping slab. Ascend 3m up slab to small piton stance.
15m 19 Ascend face and recess above stance to a double stepped square overhang. Climb the overhang at its right end on the line of the recess (2 pitons). A mantle shelf brings one to a comfortable ledge.
12m 8 Ascend diagonally right. Piton stance.
22m 10 Diagonally right up ramp to the point where rock steepens and becomes red again. Stance on comfortable ledge. (Pitches 4 and 5 can be combined if preferred).
18m 13 Up 6m, going initially left, then traverse 5m right above and past stance, ascend to level of traverse beneath overhang. Traverse right to stance in chimney.
18m 10 Up chimney to ledge.
6m 13 Walk left to block under the roof. Swing left and ascend a short steep section through the summit overhang. (As for finish of 'Birdbrain')
The route is to the left of 'Poacher'. It starts in almost the same place as POACHER but climbs up a mild corner approximately 13m left of POACHER'S crux pitch. A wide ledge which starts in the gully ends directly above the corner.
20m 17 Climb onto a 2m buttress to start. Move diagonally left into the corner. Up this to 4m below a roof. There is a smooth slab on the right.
18m 20 Climb diagonally right up the slab to a rail. Above is a 2m bulge. Ascend the bulge on jugs to stance on a ledge.
15m 13 Walk right along the ledge then ascend a few meters to stance below a steep broken face.
20m 20 Climb technically up the face. The stance is directly above the previous stance and is gained by pulling over a bulge to a ledge on the right of the vague corner. There is a large roof 5m above.
20m 20 Traverse left to stance in a corner on easier looking rock.
30m 19 Climb the corner above, exiting left at about 5m. Continue up diagonally left to the top.
FA:Tarquin Holt, Chris Lomax & George Mallory, 1984
This route is situated on the left-hand wall of the large recess and to the left of the routes 'Fee', 'Fie', 'Fo' and 'Fum'. Scramble up about 6m to an obvious roof. The route takes the right-hand crack of a dual crack system which runs through the roof. The crux is getting past the roof, but good protection can be placed at the lip.
20m 20 Hand-jam strenuously through the roof and ascend for about 3m. Traverse left for about 4m to the corner. Move around the corner onto an exposed face, then diagonally left up the face to a cubby hole stance.
This climb is the direct start to 'Purple Rain'. It takes the impressive overhanging recess with the large tree half way up to an overhang, 25m upstream and on the same side of the kloof as 'Late Breeze'.
18m 20 Climb up a short slab to the overhang. Move through the overhangs using 3 fixed pegs for protection. Continue up the open book above to belay in the tree.
18m 18 Climb up the open book to a crack in the overhang. Move through the overhang to a ledge.
30m 17 Moving slightly left on the ledge, climb the crack through the bulge onto a large ledge. Move right to the arete and climb this to the top.
Notes:
Pitch 2 and the first part of pitch 3 are shared with 'Purple Rain'.
Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined.
Before he made the Statue of Liberty disappear, David Copperfield first practiced (very successfully) on the pegs on this route.
This climb is situated just downstream from 'Brothers in Arms' on a buttress just as you come out of the 'Brothers in Arms' enclave.
25m 20 Climb up the middle of the face (sparse protection) with the crux getting off the ground. Continue up the face avoiding a ledge on the right arete. Reach the ledge with a tree and continue up the dihedral to a small overhang. Exit to the left and scramble to a ledge.
15m 10 Climb back to the left of the large overhang. Traverse right onto the lip and climb the arete to a large ledge (Camp Six).
15m 17 Traverse left from the stance. Move up to a short open book below the overhang. Continue up to an overhang. Move left through the overhang and follow the face to the top (good exposure).
Notes:
The first pitch provides good climbing with limited protection.
The stance on top of pitch 2 is very similar to Camp 6 on the nose of El Capitan, Yosemite.
A 3 stars climb can be created by climbing the first pitch of 'More Goofy Than Mickey Mouse' and then finishing up pitches 2 & 3 of 'Charge Of The Light Brigade' .
This climb is situated just downstream from 'Brothers in Arms' on a buttress just as you come out of the 'Brothers in Arms' enclave.
25m 20 Climb up the middle of the face (sparse protection) with the crux getting off the ground. Continue up the face avoiding a ledge on the right arete. Reach the ledge with a tree and continue up the dihedral to a small overhang. Exit to the left and scramble to a ledge.
40m 17 Instead of moving right at the overhang, climb straight up the face past an overlap to a ledge. Move left into a downstream facing open book. Climb this, moving out left near top past a tree then up short face to top of crag.
This climb ascends a fine crack on the wall just upstream of 'Late Breeze' , between the arete ('Dingbats Himalayan Epic') and 'Cold Fact'.
30m 20 Ascend the steep face to a good ledge (19 5m) (small wire protection). Continue up easier ground to a ledge and small tree just 1 to 2m left of a larger tree. Climb the steep face above (crux). Follow easier rock to a large ledge and belay.
Ascends the fine slab that forms the left-hand side of the 'Late Breeze' corner. Start 3m left of 'Late Breeze'.
35m 20 Ascend a leftward-leaning crack system until it is possible to step right on to the slab proper, above a small overlap. Protected by friends in the horizontal crack, make hard moves to a good resting ledge. Continue up in the same line, following a shallow recess 2m from the arete, until level with a hollow-sounding jammed block. From here traverse left on to the arete (crux of 'Pick Of Punch') and climb the last few meters of that route.
This route starts about 50m downstream of the start of 'The Thread'. It ascends the crack around the corner on the left of 'Who Was That Masked Man'.
To reach the start, climb a large boulder to the flat, sloping ledge at the bottom of the descent ramp on the true right of the kloof.
30m 20 Climb the vague crack line for 7m and then move slightly left. Continue up past a number of small ledges to a broad ledge with tree belay.
30m 19 Move up and left to an open book. Climb the open book to easier rock. Continue up the easy face to the top of crag.
This climb ascends the steep face situated on the left after one has descended the ramp descent (steep grassy sloping slabs). The start is found about 4m to the right of the climb 'The Serpent' and about 10m downstream of 'Recuperation'.
25m 20 Climb directly up to the bulge where a fixed piton protects the crux. Continue up a direct line to a tree belay.
20m 20 Move up to a higher ledge. Continue up the face (thin) to beneath the obvious overhang. Pull through the overhang (crux). Climb easier rock to the top.
The route takes the face of the squat pinnacle mentioned in 'KB One', slightly downstream from 'Pistol', on the opposite side. Start 3m upstream from 'KB One'.
35m 20 Ascend the face directly below the pinnacle easily to a ledge at mid-height. From the ledge move directly up the face of the pinnacle (crux). Holds improve towards the top.
15m 8 Ascend the pleasant face to the top, or scramble off to the left.
Starts 3m to the right of 'Circle Of Hands'. (i.e. 3m to the left of 'Waving Not Drowning').
25m 20 Start directly below the small overhang at 4m. Climb straight up (peg and rope sling for protection). Follow the crack above to ledge, thence move up the wall above, exiting to the left of the small overhang at the top.
This route is situated on buttress about 20m upstream of the meetspot, and takes the obvious crack straight out of the streambed. About 8m away from the rock face is a large tree (unique in Kranskloof) with a very thick trunk.
[20] 30m Climb the break on brownish rock to a small bulge about 6m up. Continue up the book above and exit right and then straight up to a tree .
FA:M. Brunke, Steven Mallory, George Mallory, K. Smith, J. Brown & D. van der Riet, 1985
Starts 2m left of 'The Cruise' on the edge of the ledge. A line of bolts will be seen on the arête to the right of the start.
40m 20 The dihedral which 'Foetus' partially takes is climbed in its entirety to give a long, superb quality pitch. The crux is the first 5m. Moving initially slightly left, climb up to a ledge at the base of an upstream facing open book. Ascend this (initially shared with 'Foetus') past one small overhang to belay on a small stance just past the second.
20m 17 Continue up the dihedral (slightly right) to a ledge. Traverse right a few meters and climb up to another ledge. Traverse back left to the arete (above the stance) and climb to the top.
Notes:
On pitch 2, if you take off leftwards from the first ledge, it is 19 (scarce pro). The overhanging groove just left of the stance, and stepping right onto the face about 3m from the top, is 20.
Now that the tree that was used to overcome the difficulties on pitch 1 of 'Tootie Rootie' has fallen down, one is faced with more severe problems. The 2nd and 3rd pitches of the route take the direct line instead of escaping to the left as the original route does.
25m 17 Climb the obvious corner just downstream of 'Right Slant' and 'The Swarm' until it runs out. Move slightly right and layback up a smooth corner to gain a large ledge. Move right to a nearby tree belay.
25m 19 Climb directly up on polished rock to immediately beneath an overhanging nose. Move right onto the steep smooth convex face. Climb this to a stance at the foot of an overhanging chimney which is capped by a roof 10m up.
20m 20 Climb the overhanging chimney to the roof. Traverse out left and continue to the top.
Variation:
This alternative which lies some distance downstream of the original start, makes the climb completely independent of 'Tootie Rootie'.
1a. 20m 15 Start just left of an overhang at ground level which lies 10m upstream of the end of the buttress. Climb diagonally left for 10m passing beneath an inviting crack to the base of an open book which lies 5m to the right of the crack used by the original first pitch. Ascend the open book until it is possible to move out right onto the nose. Continue up to a good tree belay.
This climb starts about 2m downstream of 'Pistol'.
[15] 20m Climb the steep overhanging wall on good grips tending rightwards 4m to a prominent pointed block. Continue up the cracks above to a good ledge.
Note:
A short pleasant route well protected. Abseil off good tree.
This climb ascends the buttress and obvious slab to the right of 'Supercalifragilistic Crack' and 'Expialadocious'.
30m 20 Climb the short open book/recess on the right of the buttress. Move left from the top of the recess and up to a small ledge below the smooth face (slab)
Ascend the face to a small ledge capped by a small overhang. Ascend the overhang and continue up juggy face to large grassy ledge.
40m 14 Climb the face behind the ledge taking the easiest line.
Takes the second shallow open book to the right of 'Supercalifragilistic Crack', flanked on the left wall by white coloured rock.
35m 20 Ascend open book to below overhang. Traverse left immediately beneath overhang to gain a second open book. Climb open book moving right beneath a second overhang. Continue up to large ledge.
40m 13 Traverse right from stance to smooth slab. Ascend slab keeping generally left of centre, moving right at the top.
Variation:
2a. 45m 15 Move left at top of slab up steep rock.
This route takes the first open book to the right of 'Supercalifragilistic Crack' i.e. between 'Supercalifragilistic Crack' and 'Expialadocious'.
40m 20 Climb the open book past the horizontal rail moving left onto the nose. Ascend the steep recess. Make 2 aid moves up the recess, then move leftwards onto a good ledge on the face to the left of the recess. Climb up the face moving rightwards to the nose on top of the recess. Continue upwards past a tricky mantle shelf to a good ledge.
45m 17 Keeping on the left arete climb up to a good ledge. Continue past the ledge up a recess to the top.
The start is located approximately 15m right of 'Chim-Chim Cheree' in a smooth looking crack in a corner bulging out slightly 2m up. Cairn.
10m 20 Climb the first 5m using friction and jams until the grade eases off. Continue up to a tree belay below a large overhang.
35m 15 Continue up to the overhang and move out left and up to some ledges below a short wall on the right. Move up and left on the wall and then traverse right to the right-hand side of a large slab. Continue up to a large ledge. Tree belay.
15m 20 Ascend 6m to beginning of a shallow recess, where a vertically inserted piton was left. Move up to overhang. Then move left out of recess, up for 2,5m then diagonally right and up for 8m to a small stance. On this portion the grips were rather smooth. A "lifebuoy" grip is encountered however, which enables one to rest for a few seconds.
8m 15 At stance level traverse right 6m and descend slightly to share a stance with 'Shady Overhang'.
23m 13 Ascend diagonally left and up to base of recess (dead bush halfway when climb was opened) and exit left at top. From here traverse left and up to base of chimney-like recess up to a good tree belay.
The climb is on the polished face downstream of the practice belay pitch. There are large trees in the kloof in this area, which shade the lower half of the face. The upper branches actually brush the face in places.
[20] 12m
Ascend 8m on steep rock to an overhang. Climb the overhang at its least severe point i.e. via a shallow cleft which slopes diagonally up to the right. About 4 pitons (A2) were used in the opening ascent at the overhang. The pitch continues up diagonally right to a prominent ledge with piton belay.
18m 10 Traverse left to above first pitch and then ascend to stance.
This climb, which has a common start with 'Crescendo' follows an exposed line to the right of the high cave of 'Hospital Hill'.
15m 13 Climb directly up to a large tree 5m above the ground and then continue diagonally rightwards via a small overhang to a small ledge. Stance is common with 'Crescendo'.
15m 15 Climb the recess above the stance for 5m and then traverse left for 3m along an exposed ledge. A long pull up leads on to another ledge and then continue straight up the exposed face to a very small stance with peg and nut runner belays about 3m below the overhangs and 5m right of the lip of the cave.
22m 20 Step down 1,5m from stance and traverse left for 3m across the face to below a 2m recess capped by an overhang. Climb the recess to the overhang and make an exposed traverse left and then up to surmount the overhang. Continue up steep rock to a small ledge at the base of the recess. Traverse left for 1,5m and then climb the slightly overhanging face, initially on good holds, but getting poorer higher up to an off-balance resting place where a small nut runner can be placed for protection. Traverse left across the exposed face just above the roof of the cave and continue on off-balance traverse to the grey face opposite, where the angle eases. Climb easily to the top.
Start 5m upstream of 'Casualty Ward' i.e. at the upstream entrance to the cave which is several meters above the ground.
25m 17 Climb up to a recess and continue up to a roof 20m up. Traverse right around the arete to gain a ledge just above a small tree on the Apex face.
30m 20 Climb up diagonally right past a large loose block to a ledge then back diagonally left to the top of a block. From there move strenuously up to big jugs and finish diagonally right on smaller holds. Exit just right of aloes.
Note:
Steep sustained face climbing mostly on good jugs.
The climb starts 2m to the left of the "obvious crack" in 'Deception' first pitch, crosses the line of 'Hospital Hill' and finishes up the steep face to the right of 'Hospital Hill' top grade 20 pitch.
25m 15 Climb to top of open book. Move right and step onto the face on the right. Move around the corner and climb diagonally right for 6m to stance at a peg 2m below the steep recess of 'Hospital Hill' top 20 pitch.
25m 20 Traverse 2m right to beneath a short open book capped by an overhang. On the undercut right hand wall of this open book is an obvious horizontal crack. Reach up to the rail and climb up and to the right until you can stand out on the tip of the nose formed by the right wall of the open book (crux). Climb diagonally left for 2m then continue up steep face to the top bearing slightly right (sustained).
This is a steep short crack about 50m upstream of 'Lifebuoy' but on the opposite side of the kloof. It is about 20m upstream from 'Double Vision' and just before a very large tree.
[20] 15m Climb the crack in the red rock breaking out right at the top to a tree belay. Scramble off on right.
Starts just to the left of the very steep recess with roots coming down it, to the left of 'Pidgeon Hole' recess. There is some thick tree cover around the start.
[20] 25m
Climb a small steep recess for 5m to a rusty fixed piton. Traverse left for 1.5m and then diagonally up steep rock for 5m to a small block above which there is another fixed piton. Move up the steep shallow recess above for 1,5m and then move strenuously up right onto some blocks. Step back left into the shallow recess and move up to 1,5m below an aloe where there is a fixed piton. Traverse right for 1,5m and then climb steep rock to where the angle eases. Then diagonally right to a stance in the main recess.
[13] 21m
Climb the recess for 9m and then traverse left onto a large ledge. Move up from the left hand side of the ledge onto an open face and the up easier rock to a large ledge with a tree belay.
Starts just to the left of the very steep recess with roots coming down it, to the left of 'Pidgeon Hole' recess. There is some thick tree cover around the start.
[20] 25m
Climb a small steep recess for 5m to a rusty fixed piton. Traverse left for 1.5m and then diagonally up steep rock for 5m to a small block above which there is another fixed piton. Move up the steep shallow recess above for 1,5m and then move strenuously up right onto some blocks. Step back left into the shallow recess and move up to 1,5m below an aloe where there is a fixed piton. Traverse right for 1,5m and then climb steep rock to where the angle eases. Then diagonally right to a stance in the main recess.
[19] 25m
Step back down left from the stance and traverse delicately left into the corner. Move up strenuously on good holds and continue up the steep corner to the large ledge. Climb the crack above for 3m and then step left on to the easier angled face which is climbed to the large ledge and tree belay.
Climbs the arête left of 'The Snare'. The first pitch starts about 25m right of 'The Snare'.
At ground level there is a small clearing in the trees directly beneath the orange face of 'The Snare'. To get to the start from this clearing, squeeze through between the trees and the cliff towards climbers’ right to the next small clearing. There are at least two alternative starts which are more direct: either climb the first pitch of 'The Snare', or 'Dome Face-Variation'.
20m 19 Climb the crack near the left side of the small clearing, either skirting the small headwall to the right or climbing it directly. Belay from the rounded perch above the headwall.
Scramble left to the base of the gully between the orange face and the main wall, and then up and left to an amazing platform beneath the left arête of the orange face.
30m 20 As per 'The Snare', climb just right of the arête, past fixed gear, and then stay on the arête to the small mid-height ledge. 'The Snare' goes right from here. Climb just left of the arête to skirt the tree on its RHS. Continue up just left of the arête to the top.
Descent: as per 'The Snare'.
A good, short route, ideal for a quick hit.
Near the far left side of the dome (before Chatter Gully) is a short blank panel of orange rock starting at ground level, split by two cracks about a meter apart.
15m 20 Climb the right hand crack, then move left near the top to gain a big ledge. Rap off a tree.
The climb lies in the middle of the upper buttress between 'Red Rooster' and GREY HEN. The climb goes up a clean well-defined corner which leads past a ledge 7m up. The climb finishes next to a prominent projecting nose on the top of the crag.
[20] 21m
Climb the corner gaining the ledge at 7m with difficulty. Continue up the corner to a large ledge.
[19] 20m
Climb the corner for 5m to where it steepens. Continue up the corner for 2m to gain a small ledge (strenuous). Traverse right across the face for 5m and continue up to the top.
10m upstream of the 'Beyond the Vertical' gully (obvious corner).
25m 20 Climb the corner to roof (4m). Peg under roof. Pull through on right and straight up wall above to right of recess. Move left at about 10m and follow obvious crack to top.
Climb the thin crack to a belay in a recess (shared with 'Donkerhoek Corner').
25m (16) Follow the finger crack behind the stance up. Climb left of a tree in the corner to a point below an overhang. Traverse right under overhang and go up right of it. Continue straight up to a grassy ledge. Tree belay.
When seen from the campsite on the opposite side of the river, the Donkerhoek Buttress features an impressive, light brown coloured slab that faces upstream at right angles to the river. This climb follow the finger crack roughly up the center of this face. Start about the center of the face below a prominent right facing corner.
[20] 45m Climb the right angled corner. At the top of this, step left and pull onto the slab. Pass 2 pegs then climb the very thin crack on small holds up the steep slab to the bulge. Move left and make a hard move over the bulge to gain easier ground.
This is a pleasant un-sustained route ideal for climbers new to this grade. Start 4m upstream and around the corner to 'Broken Corner'.
[20] 15m
Climb up on good grips until an off-balance position on a ledge is reached. Above are two crack systems. Avoid the crack system in the corner to the right and climb the crack up the centre of the overhang to easier rock above. Continue up to a good ledge shared with 'Simian Street'.
20m 15 Traverse right for 2 to 3m and then ascend the face moving diagonally right until forced right into the corner shared with 'Broken Corner' (second pitch). Continue up this corner to a ledge. Instead of moving right as in 'Broken Corner', move left into a recess. Climb up this corner to a good ledge and tree belay.
45m 8 Climb up recess above stance to a point where you can move left onto an exposed ridge. Continue up nondescript rock to the top of the crag.
Variation:
15m 15 Climb up to ledge as in the normal route. Step right into a corner which is followed to the same ledge as the end of the normal pitch one.
FA:Neil Margetts, Darryl Margetts & G. Lainis, 1987
The route climbs the line 3 meters left of 'Pumping Gibbon' i.e. between 'Hawk's Eye' and 'Red Corner'.
Scramble up towards 'Hawk's Eye' start and stance at two square blocks.
[20] 25m
Climb up 2m before traversing 2m right. Mantelshelf then continue up towards the 'Pumping Gibbon' open book. From the resting place here move 2m left and climb the crack to a semi-hanging stance 7m below the large roof.
20m 20,A1 Climb up to the roof and traverse delicately left to where a nut can be used to aid further across the smooth face. Continue up to the top.
