Routes in Middle East for selected grade

Old school (some may find it hard for the grade). A great eliminate! Sit start with your left foot smeared, left hand on the arete. Right foot smeared, and right hand on a low side pull. Right hand goes up high to a small scoop (1 finger will be solid, the others will kind of be crimped on top of it, or you could try to gaston it) then lunge for the top with either your left or right hand. The left foot smear is really bad so expect your foot to pop unless you keep good body tension

sit start with left hand on a small crimp, and right on a prom side pull and reach up to a big crimp that you can match. Make your way up using small crimps and maybe a mono out left if you feel so inclined. Get to a huge sloper at 3/4 heights, then make a big reach past the void to a small but solid pinch. Gingerly bring your feet up and slap the top and top out easily. The jug out right is off.

Climb the arete with a bit of exposure

Technical moves off the ground that move up into a pocketed face.

2-bolt anchor without a chain.

Bouldery start leads to easier climbing

They say it used to be a dry tooling route. Some may find a section between 4th and 5th quickdraws a bit tricky and slightly commiting as there are loose holds and a huge but slopy right foot. You'll find yourself in a good stemming position right after, though.

There's a 2-bolt anchor without any rings so you'd better clean the route on a top-rope and remove the anchor after topping out. It's safe as the shelf at the top is huge.

A steep start leads to a puzzling crux

Slightly overhanging and pumpy. A bit reachy at the bottom

The first pitch is classic face and crack climbing with the second pitch being chimney and off width. Pitch 1: Start on Knife and break left after the 2nd bolt onto the small ledge. Clip a bolt to protect the first crux and then move to the duo cracks. After the cracks clip the bolt and do a few harder moves. Keep it moving through the 3 m run-out to the 2 bolt anchor. (5.10a) Pitch 2: Move up the lie-back crack into the off-width. Chimney to ledge and finish on the 3rd pitch of Knife. (5.9)

One of the older routes and definitely an area classic. Bouldery start (easier if taller) leads to moderate pocket pulling straight up the face. A must do for the area.

Be prepared to have dozens of tourists stop and watch/take pictures of you!

Pockets and crimps on great limestone to awesome lie backing on a right facing flake.

Scramble up the blocks at ground level, to the thin and reachey crux then finish up on the last few bolts of Fire and Brimstone.

Great moves through steep terrain.

One of the first bolted routes at the crag. A bolt was added down low to eliminate a scary run out. A slabby route that demands your attention.

Climb the crack in between Crack for Cheese and Middle Finger.

A delicate start leads to fun laybacking up the obvious slots.

Climb past the corner to a moon shaped crack. A reachy boulder problem takes you to the last three bolts of UWC Rocks.

Great climbing on a variety of holds. Laybacks, hand jams, exposure - this route has them all. One of the best 6a's on the island.

Rebolted December 2022

The nice route up to the highest point on the crag. For the 6a+ grade climb slightly left near to top to join Egatiki. Finish direct (tricky for the short) and collect 6b.

A great route. The bulge at halfway is quite powerful and feels surprisingly committing for a sports route.

Great route on the far right of the sector. Ironic name as it is very pumpy for the grade (although cheeky rests can be made by scuttling right onto the arete proper). Undergraded?

A stonking route. A tricky start leads up to a brilliant flake and crack system. Finish up a short steep wall that has a bit of a sting in the tail. A classic.

Just around the corner from the previous route. Climb vertical wall with a ledge at 3m, more vertical climbing then slabbier ground to the top. 10

From a boulder climb the crack in the wall to a lower-off at the steepening.

The difficult moves at the second bolt are slightly easier on the left. Good balance helps.

A slabby start leads to a pumpy finale.

Varied and enjoyable to a beefy finale.

Multipitch with routes "Puza", "Kiwi", "Hera" possible.

There is an alternative stand for the belayer which reduces the height to 30m.

Grade, lengths and bolts are from the first pitch.

First bolt of second pitch are not visible directly from the anchor of the first pitch.

1. 6a 6a+, 25m, 8 bolts

2. 6b+, 36m, 10 bolts

3. 5c / 5c+, 31m, 7 bolts

4. 5b / 5b+, 31m, 6 bolts

The crux is after the second quickdraw - to place high right foot, stand up and take the undercling/pinch to the right.