Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Hell's Canyon West | |||||
FR:5a | ★ Screaming Khorovats | ||||
FR:5b | ★ Cheese and Wieners | ||||
FR:6a | ★★ Ignorance
Reachey moves toward the top. | 12m | |||
FR:6c | ★ World Famous Nobody
Mellow moves leads to a rather exiting crux towards the top! Bolts to a two chain anchor. | 12m | |||
FR:5b | Estragon and Sisy Bolts
Short, fun and a bit slabby. | 12m | |||
Ohanavan West | |||||
{FR} 5b | ★★★ Tapas for Breakfast
One of the better easier routes in the area. As per usual it's a bit dirty, bit the movements are great and it's one of the few routes on this side of the river that doesn't start over the water. If you are proficient at jamming (hand and fingers) it will feel super cruiser. Gets shade most of the day! | 20m | |||
{FR} 5a | ★★ Acid
Follow the line of bolts up a slab to a ledge. traverse the ledge left, ignoring the bolts up and right, then climb up to the anchors... | 18m | |||
{FR} 6a | Acid variant
If you want more of a challenge in the Acid route, at the ledge instead of going left go straight up. A steep boulder problem with tight jams and lay-backing up the crack will bring you to the same anchors as for the route out left. The right variation goes at around 5.10, depending on hand-size. | ||||
{FR} 7a+ | ★★★ Something From Nothing
Somewhat sequential climbing on pockets brings you up the wall with rests right where you need them. Near the top the character of the climbing changes nature and you are forced to grab some rather small crimps on the steepest part of the wall. Have your belayer clip into the low bolt by the boulder and belay there. Note on First Free Ascent: The first free ascent of this route was sniped from me by a couple of visiting Russian climbers who ignored my red tag. FA: unknown Set: Luca Keushguerian, May 2020 | 21m | |||
Project
Work in progress | |||||
{FR} 6c+ | ★★ World on Fire
An aesthetic climb with a memorable crux! An easy and less steep start leads up to harder and increasingly pumpier climbing to the final overhang where you must dispatch a puzzling, and committing final crux. One of the best at the crag for sure Set: Luca Keushguerian, Sep 2020 FFA: Joseh DeGeanto, Oct 2020 | 21m | |||
{FR} 6b | ★★ Fishing for Freedom
This is the left of the two bolted lines going over the water. To access Fishing For Freedom it is currently best to rap in from above and either set up a TR where the belayer is on the other side of the river, or to pull your ropes are you rap. Or you could try to swim there and get established on a very small ledge. Either way you're probably gonna get your rope wet. A polished start on incut side-pulls leads to easier terrain and a nice ledge rest. When ready fire up the arete on sloping holds and pockets. End on an awesome ledge. Be careful not to blow the first few moves or you might end up in the water!! | 27m | |||
{FR} 6a | ★★★ Sandstorm
A water polished start leads to a thought provoking crux. Easier climbing brings you to the top. If bolted routes could feel adventurous this one definitely does! While is it a bit dirty the position of the route is stunning! Towards the top the belayer will lose sight of the climber and because of the close proximity to the river it will be hard to communicate. So make sure you have a plan before you leave the ground. A 60m will get you down easily! | 27m | |||
Ohanavan East | |||||
{FR} 6c+/7a | KSM | 12m | |||
{FR} 5a | ★★★ First Born
The left most route Bouldery start leads to easy but fun movement in a corner with stemming and good edges and jugs. | 12m | |||
{FR} 5a | GR | 17m | |||
{FR} 5c | ★★ Crack for Cheese
Tackle steep and chossy terrain for a few bolts until you get to a good stance under a bulge. Climb straight up the bulge for 2 bolts on somewhat hard-to-see but good edges (you need to find them between all the lichen.) Finish up on easier terrain. The bolting is a bit funky on this one. I'd recommend long draws on the first half of the route to prevent rope drag up top | 15m | |||
{FR} 5b | ★★★ Awesome Foundation
Bouldery start leads to an easy slab then a ledge rest bellow an overhang/ bottomless arete. Surmount the overhang by doing a super cool move out right to the arete! | 12m | |||
{FR} 5c | ★★ Invisible Pumpkin Seeds
A bit wandering, but one of the best at the crag! Bouldery climbing brings you to a somewhat dirty mantle above the 2nd bolt. Compose yourself then tackle the bulge above for 3 bolts of steeper climbing on big pocket/jugs to get to another ledge. Clip a few more bolts on easier terrain to gain the anchors. | 15m | |||
{FR} 5b - 6a+ | ★★ Pedigree
Climb the crack in between Crack for Cheese and Middle Finger. | 15m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Middle Finger Salute
Climb up the pocketed face using the right arete. Easy climbing leads you to the last bolt where you have to make big move. Don't blow the last move or you'll swing into the arete.. | 14m | |||
{FR} 5c | ★★ Leave your sanity at the quicklink
Climb up the shallow corner to a pedestal out right, then climb the face and left arete to a brief ledge rest. When ready tackle the last 2 bolts of steeper climbing using pockets, jugs, and the left arete. Try not to deviate too far to the right at any point or you'll find yourself on harder terrain with less flowing movement. | 12m | |||
Dilijan Bisetktor The Empress Slabs | |||||
{FR} 7b | ★★★ Lichen My Whistle
Awesome climbing with multiple cruxes and a little bit of everything. FA: Luca Keushguerian, Aug 2019 Set: Val Ismaili & Kim McGrenere, Aug 2019 | 20m, 9 | |||
{FR} 7b+ | The Cat Ear Project
Difficult opening moves leads to technical slab followed by a tough boulder problem that gives way to easier terrain. Consider stick clipping the second bolt from the ground. You need a 70m rope to get down. FA: Kim McGrener, Aug 2019 Set: Kim McGrenere & Florence Wallace, Aug 2019 | 35m, 15 | |||
5.12d | Bullet Through My Flow
Consistently tricky moves leads up the steep part of the immaculate slab. FA: Graham McGrener, Aug 2019 Set: Florence Wallace & Kim McGrenere, Aug 2019 | 12m, 5 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Knucks For Lucks
Tricky face climbing leads right and up the steep slab. FA: Graham McGrener, Aug 2019 Set: Graham McGrener, Aug 2019 | 18m, 9 | |||
5.12a | ★ Big Red Villis
Start up the right facing corner. Head up the right leaning crack, pull over a bulge to a slab finish. FA: Graham McGrener, Aug 2019 Set: Kim McGrener, Aug 2019 | 20m, 11 | |||
5.10a | Mergelane
Start up Big Red Villis, but head right before the bulge to the anchors of Highway to the Comfort Zone. FA: Kim McGrener, Aug 2019 Set: Kim McGrenere & Graham McGrenere, Aug 2019 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Lil Swolie
This Burly rock climb will get you jacked. Watch out for a hidden pocket halfway up. FA: Graham McGrener, Aug 2019 Set: Graham MCGrener, Aug 2019 | 15m, 7 | |||
5.10b | ★ Pulling Shapes
Climb past the corner to a moon shaped crack. A reachy boulder problem takes you to the last three bolts of UWC Rocks. FA: Kim McGrenere, Aug 2019 Set: Val Ismaili & Kim McGrenere, Aug 2019 | ||||
UWC Rocks
Climb a series of low angle slabs and jugs. Easier to clean on toprope. FA: Kim McGrenere, Aug 2019 Set: Kim McGrenere, Val Ismaili & Florence Wallace, Aug 2019 | 25m, 11 | ||||
Dilijan Bisetktor Shady Water Gully | |||||
5.11b | Out of Jur
Start with a sharp boulder problem and continue up awesome climbing to the anchor. FA: Kim McGrener, Aug 2019 Set: Kim Mcgrenere & Peter Rosso, Aug 2019 | 22m, 9 | |||
5.12d | No Country for Vegans
Boulder up past multiple cruxes to a cruisey slab at the top. Set: Peter Rosso, Aug 2019 FA: Graham McGrenere, Aug 2019 | 22m | |||
5.12b | Salad Fingers
Coming in from the left skips the first and hardest boulder problem on No Country for Vegans. FA: Graham McGrener, Aug 2019 Set: Peter Rosso, Aug 2019 | 22m | |||
5.13d | Flor
Start up easy slab then follow the blue streak up and left through the overhang and some delicate moves near the top. Extending a few draws might help. FA: Graham McGrenere, Aug 2019 Set: Graham McGrenere, Aug 2019 | 15m | |||
5.11d | ★★ Pressure Pump
Sustained and pumpy climbing with hard to find feet takes you past a V-shaped flake then up and right past a series of cracks before heading right around the bulge. FFA: Luca Keushguerian, Aug 2019 Set: Val Ismaili, Aug 2019 | 25m | |||
5.10c | ★ Drowning Ant Farm
FFA: Aug 2019 Set: Tad Karapetian, Aug 2019 | 20m | |||
5.10a | ★ Hydroponic Chilli Peppers
FFA: Peter Rosso, Aug 2019 Set: Tadeh Karapetian, Aug 2019 | 25m | |||
Dilijan Bisetktor The Nest | |||||
5.11d | ★★ Murder Rocks
Two easy bolts lead to a steep boulder problem, then continue up easier climbing to the anchor. FA: Luca Keushguerian, Aug 2019 Set: Luca Keushguerian, Aug 2019 | 15m, 8 | |||
Project
A hard bouldery start leads to a leftwards traverse on crimps before heading straight up on easier terrain. Set: Peter Rosso | 25m, 14 | ||||
Kaghsi | |||||
FR:5a | ★ Point
This is one of the easiest routes on the cliff and a good climb for beginners. Climb the obvious bolted line with big holds and sometimes smeary feet. FA: Luca Keushguerian, Aug 2018 | 11m | |||
FR:6b | ★★★ Let's Face It
A very cool face climb with a thought provoking crux. Climb up solid but hollow flakes trending right underneath a bulge. Figure out how to pull the bulge and regain your composure. A few long moves lead to easier climbing. Once you clip the last bolt, traverse right to a ledge with the anchor. FA: Luca Keushguerian & Florence Wallace, Aug 2019 | 14m | |||
FR:5c | ★★★ Kaghsi Calling
Climb up the beautiful easy slab to the base of the steep wall. Climb out right using pinches and sloping feet to get better holds higher up then traverse left and use the corner-crackand the occasional face hold until you're faced with a beached-whale-type-mantle onto the belay ledge. Technique will help you on this route a lot more than brute strength will. Looks a lot easier than it is. FA: Luca Keushguerian & Danniel, Aug 2019 | 14m | |||
FR:5c | ★ Wish you were near
Start up come choosy rock until you're underneath a huge block. Hand traverse then continue up the face on incut rails FA: Luca Keushguerian, Scream of soul team & Danniel, Oct 2019 | 12m | |||
FR:5b | ★★ Magical Mystery Route
An adventure sport climb! (if there is such a thing) Boulder up to a ledge and clip some bolts. then stem the chimney using the occasional jug and block as holds (the blocks appear to be solid) Get onto the large ledge then climb up the right side/ slab then back left to clip the anchors. | 18m | |||
FR:6a | ★★ Two Cups of Tan
Super neat slab climbing! Would get more stars if the bottom wasn't so dirty. Start by stemming between the wall and the big boulder. After the 2nd bolt go onto the face and climb up using a weird highstep and small sloping feet. Decipher another slightly puzzling crux to gain the last bolt then the anchors. FA: Luca Keushguerian & Daniil, Oct 2019 | 12m | |||
FR:6b+ | ★★ Kosmopoliturbo
Bring strong fingers for this one! Climb up an easy start and make a strange mantle on to the ledge. When ready climb up and slightly left on small crimps for a few bolts to a large edge. Make a few more big moves up and right to a big rail. Easier moves bring you to the top. FA: Luca Keushguerian, Oct 2019 | 15m |