Pacific Ocean Wall Rock climbing 10 routes in crag

A grand adventure across the length of POW at around 2/3rds height provides mostly easy climbing a spectacular position. The sense of adventure is enhanced by spaced protection and some fragile rock. Although bolts have been used to supplement protection on harder sections and some belays, the easier climbing can be quite run out. And while it is mostly possible to climb on good quality rock, there are many thin flakes and fragile features that should be avoided. The leader and seconder should be equally confident at the grade and be prepared for a long day. POW gets full sun for a large part of the day.

Escape can be made from a number of double bolt belays along the route, although rings are only installed at the end of pitches 11 and 13. It is also possible to escape upwards after the first waterfall (pitch 7) by joining the second pitch of Whacko Jacko (14). It is possible to re-join the route from any of the other routes described on the cliff.

The route involves crossing two waterfalls which are usually dry by late spring through summer to early autumn, but are obviously weather dependant. It is easy to check the condition of the waterfalls by continuing along the walking trail.

Start at left end of the main wall see topo.

1. 60m, Grade 6 - Up, trending right of ledge to belay off cams in groove.

2. 50m, Grade 10 - Up easily to the red tide line, then start traversing. Pass one bolt and belay at the next on the blunt arête.

3. 56m Grade 6 - Continue traverse past one BR to a 3-cam belay.

4. 55m, Grade 8 - Traverse right. Belay 2-3m past a corner using cams.

5. 55m, Grade 8 - Traverse right. Step down onto a bushy ledge for a cam belay

6. 55m, Grade7 - Follow the plates right to to a DBB before the waterfall.

7. 55m, Grade 13 - The Waterfall - follow the bolts across the waterfall, then step up and around the arête for cam placements. Cam belay when the rope runs out (you should be able to see your belayer)

8. 58m, Grade 3 - Easily R to DBB

9. 58m, Grade 8 - R past shallow corner and DBB before runnel.

10. 60m, Grade 14 - Step down and across the runnel. Easily to bolt on arête then run-out to next arête for SBB + cam/nut.

11. 35m, Grade 16 (crux) - R past shallow corner and around pillar. Step up onto dinner plates to clip next bolt, then step down and R to next. Move up and R again to get to clean slab. Mantle down a body length to easier traverse, then clip higher bolt to protect the second. DRB belay.

12. 58m, Grade 11 - R around the arête. Slightly down and R across the bowl, then down and R again to DBB on a big horizontal fin just before the waterfall. Note at this point there is a line of bolts that crosses the waterfall at a higher level and leads to a rap station (grade 18). This line does not continue. Instead, Red Tide now loses some height to follow easier ground to the base of the smooth Kon-Tiki Face.

13. 60m, Grade 10 - Second Waterfall - Climb down L side of ledge, place a wire and traverse into and easily across the waterfall, losing a couple of meters to gain an easy traverse line on the next wall. Continue R (FH) to reach the base of the Kon-Tiki face. Continue past DBB (Ripples, 20) to belay at DRB (Ra Ra Ra, 20)

14. 56m Grade 15 - The Fragile Pitch - R 8m then step up (bolt?)and continue R another 12m. Step up again (FH) and more easily R to DBB

15. 59m, Grade 8 - Climb down 2-3m, then right across a runnel (FH). Continue easily to good sloping stance, SBB + cam.

16. 59m, Grade 2 - Obvious traverse line to SBB (+ cam)

17. 59m, Grade 6 - The Horn Pitch - Sling the phallic horn on your way to the large bushy ledge. SBB + cam.

18. 52m, Grade 12 - The Turret pitch and some vertical climbing! -Up shallow groove (no pro) then between the horns to a shallow corner (FH). Up the rounded arête to the final, well protected exit crack.

Descent - The Grampians Peak Trail is approx 50m back from the edge of the cliff.

Start 15 to the right of the distictive waterfall on the most prominent part of the face.

1. Straight up with adequate protection to a good belay ledge. 50m, 12

2. Up the steepening red rock past three FH to ledge, then easier ground (1FH) to big ledge at DBB. 50m, 14

3. Scramble another 10m to place cams in a horizontal break for a belay.

“Stillborn” – an aborted attempt on the wall, abandoned due to weather but written up either as an easy single-pitch route or for someone to finish later. About 50m right of Wacko Jacko there is a triangular boulder about 2m high, standing about 3m from the cliff, with a left-facing corner high above. Start here. Up 8m to a bolt, then continue up to a ledge and over easy ground to another steepening (bolt) then to a good ledge with two rings and a third hangerless bolt. Pro can be found in pockets with a rack of small to medium cams. Rap off.

Obvious clean-cut corner at the left end of the face. Start immediately under the corner line.

1. Scramble to ledge at 6m, step left into crack for protection and follow until level with the base of the corner. Traverse right 2-3m along the rib with hands or feet to reach the corner. (30m, 14)

2. Bridge up the elegant corner to the roof. Move right (FH) and carefully up the next little lichenous corner to another FH before moving left onto the arete to finish. (30m, 16)

Absorbing thin climbing on smears and ripples between TKTE and the moss streak . Start a few metres to the right of TTKE.

1. Easy climbing past five FH to DBB (25m, 10)

2. Step 3m right and carefully balance your way up the face. Don’t be tempted by the crack near the top; only join TKTE at the FH at the roof. Finish up TKTE. (11 FH, 35m, 20)

Launched in wet conditions which considerably softens the rock. Better in the dry.

1. Start 10m right of Ripples under the line of bolts. Follow the bolts to the DBB (6FH, 30m, 11)

2. Straight up the steepening face. A couple of small-medium cams can be placed before reaching the line of bolts. Move right once you’re on the big ledges to make a thin face move (crux) to finish at DRB (8FH, 30m, 17)

Lovely face climbing on good edges, although the crux is an alarming step with no hands. The fingertip ledge is a relief once you can reach it, but you still have to mantle it. Avoid shuffling left to the bigger ledge for the full effect. Start 7m to the right of BWR, slightly to the right of the bush on the ledge above.

1. Good quality rock scrambling with sufficient cams for protection to DRB (25m, 11)

2. Thin face moves allow you to gain a short vertical seam which is followed to a good foot rail. Traverse 2-3m left to reach more positive edges, then directly up the steepening face. Final moves as per BWR (8FH, 35m, 20)