★ RedTide 16

A grand adventure across the length of POW at around 2/3rds height provides mostly easy climbing a spectacular position. The sense of adventure is enhanced by spaced protection and some fragile rock. Although bolts have been used to supplement protection on harder sections and some belays, the easier climbing can be quite run out. And while it is mostly possible to climb on good quality rock, there are many thin flakes and fragile features that should be avoided. The leader and seconder should be equally confident at the grade and be prepared for a long day. POW gets full sun for a large part of the day.

Escape can be made from a number of double bolt belays along the route, although rings are only installed at the end of pitches 11 and 13. It is also possible to escape upwards after the first waterfall (pitch 7) by joining the second pitch of Whacko Jacko (14). It is possible to re-join the route from any of the other routes described on the cliff.

The route involves crossing two waterfalls which are usually dry by late spring through summer to early autumn, but are obviously weather dependant. It is easy to check the condition of the waterfalls by continuing along the walking trail.

Start at left end of the main wall see topo.

1. 60m, Grade 6 - Up, trending right of ledge to belay off cams in groove.

2. 50m, Grade 10 - Up easily to the red tide line, then start traversing. Pass one bolt and belay at the next on the blunt arête.

3. 56m Grade 6 - Continue traverse past one BR to a 3-cam belay.

4. 55m, Grade 8 - Traverse right. Belay 2-3m past a corner using cams.

5. 55m, Grade 8 - Traverse right. Step down onto a bushy ledge for a cam belay

6. 55m, Grade7 - Follow the plates right to to a DBB before the waterfall.

7. 55m, Grade 13 - The Waterfall - follow the bolts across the waterfall, then step up and around the arête for cam placements. Cam belay when the rope runs out (you should be able to see your belayer)

8. 58m, Grade 3 - Easily R to DBB

9. 58m, Grade 8 - R past shallow corner and DBB before runnel.

10. 60m, Grade 14 - Step down and across the runnel. Easily to bolt on arête then run-out to next arête for SBB + cam/nut.

11. 35m, Grade 16 (crux) - R past shallow corner and around pillar. Step up onto dinner plates to clip next bolt, then step down and R to next. Move up and R again to get to clean slab. Mantle down a body length to easier traverse, then clip higher bolt to protect the second. DRB belay.

12. 58m, Grade 11 - R around the arête. Slightly down and R across the bowl, then down and R again to DBB on a big horizontal fin just before the waterfall. Note at this point there is a line of bolts that crosses the waterfall at a higher level and leads to a rap station (grade 18). This line does not continue. Instead, Red Tide now loses some height to follow easier ground to the base of the smooth Kon-Tiki Face.

13. 60m, Grade 10 - Second Waterfall - Climb down L side of ledge, place a wire and traverse into and easily across the waterfall, losing a couple of meters to gain an easy traverse line on the next wall. Continue R (FH) to reach the base of the Kon-Tiki face. Continue past DBB (Ripples, 20) to belay at DRB (Ra Ra Ra, 20)

14. 56m Grade 15 - The Fragile Pitch - R 8m then step up (bolt?)and continue R another 12m. Step up again (FH) and more easily R to DBB

15. 59m, Grade 8 - Climb down 2-3m, then right across a runnel (FH). Continue easily to good sloping stance, SBB + cam.

16. 59m, Grade 2 - Obvious traverse line to SBB (+ cam)

17. 59m, Grade 6 - The Horn Pitch - Sling the phallic horn on your way to the large bushy ledge. SBB + cam.

18. 52m, Grade 12 - The Turret pitch and some vertical climbing! -Up shallow groove (no pro) then between the horns to a shallow corner (FH). Up the rounded arête to the final, well protected exit crack.

Descent - The Grampians Peak Trail is approx 50m back from the edge of the cliff.

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

• Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

• Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

• Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

• Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

• Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

• Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

• Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

• Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

• Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

• Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

• Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education