Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Relentless compression problem with a powerful squat/sit using R crimp and L pinch/slope. Gaining the lip grants you the experience of a ridiculously committing and tricky mantle up the small corner. Grade needs confirmation V8 or V9.

Alt-start (sit) on R crimps for same/harder grade.

Oliver Rickford

Climb RP and then blast right out of the off width into the pebble belt. finishes the same as Di Brenender Mush Don Mordor project. Gonna be awesome, get on it.

Start up the bolts to the right of Reverse Psychology. Linking into RP after the 4th bolt following thin seam. Hard!!!

Climbs the smooth wall straight above Fruit Bat.

Even better than the original line!! The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy!

Go from UFO all the way through to bring back the kneebar. Insane bouldering.

Mat Eaton's futuristic Line. One of the king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts then climbs into the cave to the lower off anchors.

Climb up and across Evel Knievel for about 7/8 bolts, until the obvious large break landing you at esoterics jugs. Finish up Esoteric Agenda, long slings will ease drag.

Prime to fifth clip then across the top of evils rest cave and back into no pants. Creates a sustained link with new upper crux.

The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia.

Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!

What a thrilling route! Start as for EWNP, traverse slightly right at the second bolt, then ascend past 3 new bolts before re-joining EWNP. This avoids the no hands rest on EWNP, resulting in a more sustained route of continuous climbing.

Start up Thiller, climb across to 'Bite The Hand That Feeds' and to the chains.

Up Thriller till the second last bolt and then step right into friction addictions hard ending. Super pumpy classic.

Start-up Gladiator, after the crux, climb leftwards on to Taking Care of Business variation, at last jug enjoy a hard low traverse left into the crimpy ending Friction Addiction. This route is fantastic with a great mix of climbing and is a classic link-up well worth doing.

Fantastic climbing on solid rock with exceptional moves. Start at the same point as Taking Care of Business and head right onto a small shelf – slightly tricky. Then head directly up into the obvious feature, semi-dangerous clip (ground fall potential). This is followed by some tricky moves to a cruxy dead point and easier head wall.

There is a bolt under the lip over the right side to protect the start.

A visionary route by Frey Yule and a brilliant gift to Coolum crag – thank you Frey for all your great routes at the cave!

Start right of Sceaming for some Mad roof climbing, join into 4 metres for the finish.

Start at lowest possible rail and blast straight up through steep terrain on small holds.

Stand start on double underclings with marginal feet and make a few strenuous moves up and left to finish on central jugs

Sit start and up very thin crimps on near vertical wall

Regrade proj due to holds exploding.

Start in the small cave on the good rail and try not to dab the boulder behind you!

Start on the obvious juggy holds, one move straight up before heading out right into mono territory. very committing line with less than perfect landing bring a couple of pads.

Corey Batten

Start on Made to Stray but instead of going straight up bust out left along the obvious crimp rails, head up once the crimps start turning slopey, finishing up on the big round hold over the lip. Keep your feet OFF the cave floor and boulder to the left. Feet above vegetation line. Starting on Pray to Stay is an unsent pumpers dream line

Beta: https://youtu.be/IGYyt1fR_A4

Start Matched on the crimpy flat hold on the bottom left of the boulder near the detached rock (watch your head) stay along the arete and finish on the top jug rail before mantleing over.

There may be another line possible that mantles earlier. but for Hammer Head climb all the out right.

Beta for clarity: https://youtu.be/BNXb8dtM5IQ

Start left hand on the same hold as Land Of Shadow and Right hand on the Lower of the two right hand side pulls. One FU move to glory.

rubbish rock down low. Be gentle with the start hold, if it breaks the climb will be totally different. hard to grade this one feels easy sometimes, absolutely impossible other times.

Note: the FA was done doing the final dead point with feet up on starting hand holds (not from the bottom band of rock on the ground) it may or may not be possible from the low feet and may or may not change the grade.

Start on the bulge with right hand finger lock thing, The big attached lower rock(s) are in.

F is for friends who do stuff together U is for you and me N is for anywhere and anytime at all Down here in the deep blue sea

Start bunched on low edges, aiming for high sidepulls and mantle

Start under the huge bulge and make a long move to a decent hueco, supporting crimps will get you in to position for the tiny face crimp over the bulge, from there make a huge move to a decent crimp on the face and continue crimping powerfully until victory jugs await you.

Start in a sit start- with the obvious large side pull and bust some incredibley powerful moves that lack footholds into No Mans Land.

Start as for Red Hood's Revenge, climbing into the reverse of Bane to exit the cave and blast up and right to finish as for Electric Bat Mobile. An undoubtably worthy villain for the Bat

Pull onto top of flake and make very hard Gaston onto prominent edge. Match the edge and throw for the lip of the cave, drop onto the lip and manle out. Very very committing line which requires experience and lots of pads/spotters.

Perhaps an extremely hard sit start could be added or a link in from when pigs fly via the crack.

Start matched on small crimp 1m L of ZZ. Shoot to crimp in the roof. From here, the hands follow only the thin crack until you reach the catch hold from the ICCCY dyno. Link into ZZ to finish and top out. Easier variations likely exist where the hands deviate from the thin crack. FA used only the crack for hands.

The middle/left line on “Superhard wall” from the big slopey pocket straight up. The tiny crux crimp has been broken since its original ascent by Oliver Miller. Has now been resent by Sam Bowman in it's new harder state.

The thin crux gaston hold is continually breaking and reforming.

Sit start as for NC on the left side looking out of the cave. Blast along the lip on the left to a stopper Steep Crux. Top out on buckets above next to the small tree. The only line that can escape the cave

Start off the pillar below WK. Grunt up the initial off-width with a shaky cam keeping things sane. A line of bolts leads the way up this route with stunning positions and insanely classy movement throughout. The top section is quite run out, and very thin.

Climb adams proj until the 6th and then throw back right into the end of pepperoni. Great power climbing.

Climb the relentless thuggery of Channing Potatum to the rest. Instead of finishing up LAMOP, pump your way across the traverse of Dr Pepper. Finish up that route.

The original start to Desperado!

Start up Terminus for 4 bolts then head left and grab the Dinglebop then reach up and put your fingers into the Krumbo. Once through the boulder chalk up with a bunch of Shleem as you are now on Desperado and still have a fair bit of climbing to go. Now power all the way to the top making sure to find the rests as your Fleeb juice will be pumping! Continue to the anchors and be a master of the Plumbus.

High first bolt, start up corner just right of homer. Uber thin face climbing.

Sit start down low on big flake feature. Head straight out then left on some slopey features to finish as for H.C.

Extension to V6. Start as for V6 and keep climbing past finish hold to top out cave. Currently the only problem to top out cave. Some good spotters and a surplus of pads are definitely desirable.

Sit start on the arete with a lousy orange LH side pull, and RH pinching the arete. Up the arete initially before making hard moves right- finishing up improving holds- to end in the last good pocket in the roof where the holds completely run out.

For a mega-proj, it is possible to swing back to the lip from the jugs in the roof, and the moves up the headwall go at insecure V3/4.

Gold Coasts hardest open project boulder problem that exists so far. The sit start to “The Golden Hour”. Adds a number of extremely difficult long moves. The top out is v4- do it for the full tick.

Sit start on jugs formed by the crack. Traverse right on tough holds into the start of “Déjà Hues” and top out as this. Was sent by a visiting comp climber at V8/9, 5 years ago- sand height dependant.

This line sits ~10m right of Helmet.

Sit start in scoop with hold in rooflet and first slot in seam, straight up. The holds are all there but the feet are marginal to say the least.

Top still needs an aggressive wire brushing.

Start on two thin crimps before powerful shoulder move into high gaston. Traverse left once at lip to top out left of the vegetation growing on top of the boulder.

Start on the jug of Vlad the impala before moving right into harder faster through some bad slopers and a very large move

Stand start with crimps at head height. Powerful move up to edge.

A contrived mega dyno for those who want an extra challenge, For this one it’s the same as The Warped Wall but this time considerably harder as the side pull is out for the start. Go straight to the jug.

Feel free to use the sloper to top out once you’ve sent the epic first move. Once again top out if you want. Adds nothing but is really really satisfying

The starting rail doesn’t exist anymore as of 2023.

Super fun boulder sequence into confusing fuckery.

start standing in front of the tree then head slightly right and upwards to some punchy and super rad climbing

Sit start in big groove and then make your way out of the overhang on cool groove features and then some very small holds at the lip. Looks possible but who knows.

The extension to "Kendra's Roof", continuing past the mushroom via a roof crux and then up a desperate slab above the terrifying drop away landing.

Start at the bottom of the big flake deep in the cave. Up and out via cool pockets and edges. Cave classic and also the hardest established problem at Bowen.

Start low compressing between good hold and sidepull. Slap your way up the prow and mantle using big scoop jug.

Start just under roof on good sidepull and undercling, work your way up and out through big moves on good holds.

Sit start under arete with good LH edge and slopey RH crimp. Compress your way up the arete before making hard throw for RH edge under lip. Finish as for Black Swan.

Sit start in back of cave in ‘corner’ with pair of slots in crack. Follow crack up and to corner then out to cave's perimeter via big move. Work to top via series of holds along lip. Top out using upper slab holds.

Sit start under roof on an undercling and low left facing edge. Out via good rail to a big move from the sloper into TOA, finish as for this.

Start on wide edges with a left heel hook. Puzzle your way through the abundance of gastons and the assortment of edges and underclings to reach the lip and the tricky mantle that awaits. Finish rightwards up the tall slab.

Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. There's a rock in the way that could be moved by a couple people.

Sit start on edges. Make your way right and up through a big deadpoint, finish up thin crack.

Stand start on pinches

Start off block, head straight through the roof to a big move before veering left and up. The top is very overgrown so feel free to use a vine to mantle. Amazing boulder!

Face just right of Morning Glory following tricky gastons for a rounded mantle for top out. Watch your head on the large dead tree.

An outstanding hard line.

A mega classic! Start just R of "Skippy With a Smile" with your LH on a high pinch and RH on a terrible slopey scoop. Up via small holds and two hard moves. If you jump start to right hand razor and skip the hard static start it's a V8.

An inspiring line with powerful moves. Start off the obvious RH ear and the crystallised LH sidepull.

Hard move on face with slab over the lip keeping it interesting, trends upward right on the slab. Might need to move some pads around. Another great line put up by Andy Lampard.

SS 1m L of ‘High Society” awaits a ropeless ascent. Super low start that traverses in from the L below ledge is an open project.

SS for “High Society”

SS on LH flake. Powerful movements.

Start on first boulders face to gain the bottom of the boulder sitting above, follow up crack like feature and up. Requires some commitment.

The line up the 45degree wall with a big move to get to lip, easier terrain after. Take lots of pads.

Up to the double kneebar for a rest before last boulder problem.

The extension of Short Kraken.

Next level effort! The extension to Transcontinental, climb that route and keep cranking.

True king line of Stuart, all the best parts mixed into one route! FFA was done from ground rather then from the anchors of P1 on Midlife Crisis.

A direct start to Mainstage, one main boulder right into where it all kicks off. The start of the route isn't so hard.

Slightly overhanging face climb on thin often chossy crimps. Two bolts and anchors added Jan 2018 for top half.

This is one of the original lines put up by Zimmerman. Original line used just the right layback seam, but would effectively make it an eliminate. the first move to the high layback puts you body in a position to use a compression move off of Reverie, then climbing both seams to the blank section. The Crux is from here to the top as originally described, But is considerably easier than the original grade of V9. Regardless, this is of equal quality to Reverie and is a must do. (Original description = Just to the R of "Highball #1" is a V9, with the crux at the top (start at the break and go up via lay offs to a thin section).)

A clean line on exceptionally solid rock with intense crimps and pockets.

Slightly over hanging face, start on the lowest point of obvious rail (slightly flexing be careful). Definitely use a pad on the slab for when climber is topping out.