Routes in Tasmania for selected grade

Probably the hardest route on the Pipes and a magnificent line, taking the arête and wall to the R of of Icarus.

Access via a 30m abseil from rap station above the slab that caps Battlements Column, to the Middle Battlement (top of pitch 2 of Battlements).

A reachy and powerful boulder problem at half-height offers some amazing moves in an outrageous position. A finger-sized cam can be handy to protect the post crux section.

SDS the right hand arete. Stand start is ~V3

Start low on steep pillar with a high heel cam, move up and out via burly climbing. It was originally climbed without the heel at V11.

Sit start the double crack feature of the hanging sword, climb out and up the sword.

Links Space Invader in to Storm Trooper, a very sustained piece of climbing.

Starts as for Rambo but heads direct.

A fun linkup. Start as for Blood Letting then reverse The Turd Burglar and finish up Yoshimi.

Start at offwidth/chimney and head steeply right

Start as for number 5 (V3) move left around arete to finish as for V4. Crux is past the arete.

Sit start up to big sloping break, lots more slopers chalk makes them look amazing

A short hard route starts on the ledge to the left-hand side of the cave(left-hand side when looking out of the cave).

A hard and classy route even with its close proximity to fat finger. Start on the same start holds as fat finger but break left immediately on small left trending flake to the lip. Mantle and continue to top. Avoid using holds/Block on fat finger off to the right when climbing and mantling as this is its own isolated route.

Arete eliminate(variant of Fantastical Wham) Hard line using everything other than the Arete.

Up the right arete on beautiful holds.

Stand Start - The Antichrist can be split into two easier problems, split by the large jug in the centre of the traverse. The first half climbs at about V7, and can also be done at a slightly harder grade in reverse. The second half can be done at about V8/9.

Stand Start - Big jump out to lip from two crimps.

Stand Start

Project - Start at back of cave directly in from the big jug, near the Oonga Boonga grafitti. Hard moves out the roof to the jug on the lip, and then even harder moves straight up to finish. The two halves have been done individually, both at about V9

The main face with two cracks spilling down it. Start with the left hand in the three-finger pocket and the right hand on the edge at the bottom of the crack, bust up using underclings and side pulls. There is a direct sit-start to go using two sloping edges on the face below.

Hang Start - Undercut face on far left of boulder to sloper finish

The king line for this crag, non stop intense climbing from the ground to the anchors.

Right hand finish, maybe slightly harder.

Start at the back on double underclings at right hand end of the first roof section (4m left of the climb "Caligula"). Climb out and right on large pinches and slopes to finish on the jugs around the corner

Sit-start deep under the roof on juggy undercling feature around 1m right of the undercling start of 'Flakey.' From the jug, head out to slopers of 'Campuseis' and finish as for 'Flakey.'

At the very top of The Gonk is a spell binding corner. From the top of The Gonk rappel from a double bolt belay onto a ledge which is the top of The Life of Meaning. The crux is well protected by cams and the second half of the route is sparsely protected with small wires and potentially ball nuts if you have them.

Exiting the corner of Tekken to join Balance of Evil via. a two move V9 boulder problem.

Closed Project atmo.

Climb the Tooth Fairy until the big hanging flake at half hight and then break out L past a bit of a kung fu pinch move. Powerful crux section.

Same start as Entrée but go direct. When the route steepens, the hard climbing begins! (skip dogging bolts on redpoint). To some jugs. Then go and get it. A very nice and sharp hold. Head out L to reach the chains. Come Get Me!

Water polished granite. Climb Me. This gem of a climb is a must for people who like climbing good routes. A hard boulder to get to the 4th draw will keep the masses away, and the mantel at the top will keep the boulderers crying. Good conditions help.

The obvious crack splitting the wall 5m left of Simply the Best.

Probably the best trad climb in Tasmania.

A grade 30 slab. Does anything more need to be said?

Hard man power endurance up a fantastic line. Stay out of the corner.

Climbs the right arete of the main face in its entirety. Reportedly quite nails.

Start same as Project Slap but after establishing the slopey crimp, traverse out left on tiny crimps and knobs to the arete and mantle to topout.

SS on the arete and throw upwards through bad holds to topout

SDS with the jug and crimp. Pop out to the sloped crimps and knobs on the face then Pop to good topout holds.

SS on the face crimps or undercling on the right side of the face and climb up.

Start right hand at the bottom of the same crack feature to start the previous problem and left hand on a good hold at the bottom of the bulge. Make an off-balance move to gain a small sharp crimp and then 2 more hard tension moves to the top

Somewhat of an eliminate. Start as for Mars but move rightwards off a small crimp (avoiding the obvious jug to the left used for Mars) and slap out to the right side to top out

Start as for Sideshow, once hitting lip, traverse right for several metres via bad slopers to gain better terrain for mantle

Physically more like V8 climbing, but given the seriousness of the landing you might as well give yourself the 9 points. Start on the obvious right-facing sidepull about 1m right of the corner and climb straight up using the left corner and crimps with some right hand sidepulls. Blowing the crux likely will lands you in the hole full of brambles. If that happens, at least know you weren’t the first.

Sit start as for Good Pud and head straight up

Sit start with right hand flat crimp and left hand glorious pinch. Head up through bad holds to big committing finish move.

The left arete of the steep boulder. Sit start following the line of compression holds to top out on the left side of the slab. Looks like a super quality line

The next line of edges up to a sloping topout. Sit start on large rail using edges to reach the lip

Distillery Creek's answer to Powerslave. hand start on good low left arete. Big moves to opposing sidepulls, and mantle over the lip.

Start as for premium larger immediately head right pocket/pinch of Strong Arm Bitter. Exit as for Strong George or Strong Arm Bitter

Sit start on the two good sidepulls and punch up into Strongarm Bitter

Stand. Start low on the arete and move dynamically out with a big span to join American Visions.

Stand start on the two touching gastons, hard moves trending leftwards to the top. Stay away from the arete

Sit start low, left hand on flat sloper and right hand just next to it on okay slopey edge

Stand. Start LH layaway at chest height - to moves out R

The slightly overhanging rounded arete straight off the path on the right hand end of the buttress. A hard start and 2 bolts of somewhat dirty rock leads to a horizontal break. Then sustained, powerful and technical climbing on excellent rock through 3 more bolts to lower offs.

The hardest open project in the Gorge and possibly the hardest line in the gorge if it goes. Takes the blank left face and sharp arete to DBB

Start as for Unnamed Arete and head up and left around the corner to the starting holds of Jumper, then finish as for Jumper.

Historical ascensionist advise taping the tip of the left index finger in order to use the invisible link which is a tiny sharp spiky edge.

Up the face underneath 'Scrubba Dub' Start LH on small sidepull nub and RH on terrible sloper indent. chockstone foot probably has to be in for it to be possible.

Sit Start with right hand on low sidepull sloper and left hand under the arete on a dimpled sloper. A brutally hard compression move will find you at the starting hold of Urak-Hai - finish as for that.

Left start to Secret Hideaways, right hand on crimp, left hand on arete and up via slopers

Great compression line on the back of the Island Boulder. Squat start right hand on a good horizontal crimps above head height and left hand on the good pinch down low.

Currently broken right hand start hold, problem has not been repeated since and is considerably harder Only a couple moves of hard pulling, but quite powerful. Start RH on the reinforced crimp in the middle of the face (now a lot smaller) and LH squeezing the Left side at about the same height or just below where some small ridges are visible. Make a move up the left face and throw for a good hold out right near the lip. Finish with an easier, but ungraceful top out. Very nice compression problem.

Start matched on the large crack/ledge at move out right to some crimps. Make a big move back right to a slanting crimp rail and then dyno for a jug up over the top. If you miss the dyno you're liable to take a nasty fall down into a hole. The first ascentionist filled this potential hazard in with logs and branches before covering it with pads, Unfortunately floods and 12 year old kids who like playing with sticks seemed to make short work of his efforts, so there's a good chance you may have to rebuild the landing.

Powerful thin climbing through the bulges

Start low on the arete and head up laybacking the arete and avoiding rocking over onto the easy slab.

A great looking project starting all the way underneath and slightly to the left, almost in front of the small boulder. Some apposing pebbles and hard compression might get you into a nice looking pocket before trying to latch the pebble jug(stand start foot hold) and heading all the way up the arete.

The mainline through the cave.

The right line through the cave.

There is the potential to start at the far left of this boulder and traverse into Hideout, will be tight to avoided dabbing the ground and could be very hard.

A non existent route.

Firetail