Routes in Australia for selected grade

Named for the people who insist that this be a separate climb from the original because it isn’t a sit start. Exactly the same as Penis Cling, just don’t sit to start. Instead start with your left on the far foot and pull on awkwardly, crossed under with your left hand, and completely locked on your right shoulder.

L0, R3, L4, R5, M5

Hard press move made slightly easier by starting using small foothold high and left the start hold. Just keep reaching. Looks unfeasible but works.

Bowels of the Devil finishing up For Sissies. Probably where BotD should have finished.

Start on the big hold. Often wet.

Dylan Soin

Silent Bob into High Up Over Yonder.

Start with one hand on the round blob in roof 1.5m back from jug and one hand on the jug. Smear hard and climb into Silent Bob.

Start on Elliptical jug of Blinky Bill, move directly out to the slot jug, grab any pocket and go big to the letterbox jug of Mr Smiley to finish as for Mr Smiley. Never done a move quite like this outside so hard to grade. Could be harder?

Link Bill Smith into Mr Smiley then climb up I've Got My Tie On

Start from the crimpy underclings (as for 'Spooged') and link into 'Hands Off My Detonator'

Travis B

Dylan Soin

Hands Off My Detonator. Campussing. 2 known ascents. Sharik Walker 2nd ascent.

Low start to Hands Off My Detonator.

Sit start to Travis starting from a matched crimpy undercling under the roof (same as for 'Re-Detonated').

Travis B.

Start on the ultra slopey sloper just above the lip. Move up to the next slopey rail, then left to the right-leaning slopey rail then straight up.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis Peter

Whilst made to look easy by some, this climb can be bicep destroying. Bring out your big guns.

Sit start under roof, progressing directly up through pockety edges and using the undercling with your left hand to do a powerful move directly up to rail.

Any other sequence not involving left hand on the undercling is one of the Steve Austin Variants.

Climb Steve Austin then reverse Burst and finish on the jug.

Bursting campussing. Yes, thats right. No jug as for usual Bursting rules.

Link into and finish up Buge.

Obvious dyno on the walk down wall.

Link Primordial Soup into Voodoo Child.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Start as for Agent Orange and finish as for Anthrax

Start Grimacing and finish up Voodoo Child.

Start left hand in corner and right on a sloper. Climb the arete to the slope at the top of it. Traverse right utilising edges, slopes and a big undercling, to a ramp. Mantle to some good holds near the break.

Damien Alexander

Tyrone Clements

low start just right of the arete, left hand in deep pocket and right hand on thin edge. Make a big right hand move to the side pull and continue up, top out as for 'the express'

Start on right hand side of The Express roof on twin 2 finger pockets & punch out left following the arete/lip all way round to mantle same as The Express.

Start as for Shariks Roof and finish up Onramp. Going all the way of course.

Starts underneath the roof on the shield as for Flabulous. Gain the break, trav left to the start of Strangest Things and go directly up. Might be easier for people shorter than me but it felt pretty similar to Flabulous to me.

Sit start on the shield under the roof. Move up to the breaks then big move to the top.

Mattias Braach Maksvytis

Start as for Kukkurdì then follow the underclings. Exit as for SRBD.

Straight exit of SR. Big move on sharp holds.

Looks insane, mostly due to the slopy pumpy holds at the end. Start at the very LSH of the crag, crank right for 20m on amazing holds before launching into "" for a pumpy finale.

Patrick John

Starting right of The Contender and traversing left on small holds to finish on the last move of the Contender.

Start with left hand in pockety feature and right hand on sloper in low break. Move up to the lip and mantle.

Unique. Start on the next set of holds under the rooflet and make your way up to obvious break before doing large deadpoint/dyno from poor feet to juggy lip. Finish matched at the top of the wall.

Start as Beast breaker but bust out left from slots and finish left. Can be broken with a high heel but v9/10 grade comes with big left gaston.

Sit start matched on a right facing under cling. Make some difficult moves to gain the two shallow pockets on the lip heading slightly left to the break. [Note that the right jug pocket in "Lektra Ice" is off]

Furthest Line on the left of the cave away from all the rest. Sit start matched on the round hold about a meter and a half towards the back of the cave. Make some burly moves directly out the cave to gain a hug jug before mantling the face.

Byron Glover

Peter Jeavons

From good double underclings punch up to the sloper rail and finish as for Anger Management.

Start sitting at the obvious jugs on the LHS, move across the lip utilising various underclings in the roof to summit via the Big Book LHV. Funky, interesting and unlike anything else in the area that I know of!

Straight up small crimps, big move to finish.

climb the first 2 bolts of narcosis, then bust right to the lip of slip, slop, slap. clip the bolt and finish up slip slop slap!! great fun!

Start: as for narcosis

Relatively easy climbing to a desperate boulder problem crux (~V9). Most of the recent ascentionists use a different (easier) crux sequence to the original ascentionists and the grade might be coming down soon.

Extension of "Sexy is the Word".

As for either WT or SITW. If beginning up WT, trend leftwards to join the traverse on Skin to Skin, get your ass up to the cave at the chain on top of SITW. From here wind the biceps up and punch out along the roof flake until a chain anchor around the lip. Could be the best roof climb in Australia. Awesome!!!

White Trash into Tramp Stamp via the project bolts.Then just keep on trucking. Slightly harder version of Tramp Stamp original.

The best bits of White Ladder. Historic, the first 32 climbed in Australia by an Australian.

Daniel Fisher

Rose Weller

A long link-up worthy of mention as it covers some amazing country. Start up Dude Food, to go through Vogue and up Church Of Christ to anchors. Head right across Turn Your Eyes Insane to finish up Hopelessly Devoted To You anchors.

The original line. From Meet The G anchors, climb around rooflet onto upper face to high anchor.

The really obvious and desperate looking arete that overhangs the boulders, just left of Caribbean Beat Master. Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

Links 'I Want To Be A Pumper' into the finish of 'The Crotty'.

Links 'Stargate' into 'I Want To Be A Pumper'.

Harder start than the previous problem but the same big throw to finish.

Start as for ‘The Crotty’ and finish as for ‘I Want To Be A Pumper’.

Start as for Frosty and at 3rd bolt move leftwards towards the small cave directly under the roof, blast directly through roof.

Bit of a debate about the grade, seems 32/33!! Start as for Frosty, at the major break where frosty continues upwards, veer left via some awesome bouldery moves.

Start as for Parasite past the crux the head left through El Maco to finish up the crux of Frosty.

Parasite into the finish of El Maco via the cool 'la rose' move. Sustained.

Same first move as Brown Badge, then head right to finish all the way up ANS. Originally bolted by Rob Lebreton

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

One for the Kneebarers, starts a few metres left of Cheese Gobbler up via a couple powerful moves and cruxy kneebar into the quality roof and head wall.

Climb meta to the last bolt then head left to the ‘jug’ rest on baby cheeses and do it’s final crux before finishing up the big cheese.

Start on 'ankles away' then head right through multiple roofs to a ledge before the unique 'bowl' crux and final roof. Wait for a dry spell and take some long slings.

Start up Cheesemonster. At the break traverse right a few metres to join Non Dairy Cheeselike Substitute, and finish up that.

Start up WBTM, traverse right into "Strike of the Silver Fox" then continue right through roof for a few more meters before turning the lip and finishing up head wall.

Start on the undercling and move up to the two crimps, then a long move to the first break. Head left to the rail then back right to the break it's "only" V10.

Start on the big break then LH cross-over to pocket and bust RH to break. Match and then long move with RH to gaston the slot, LH up to the 3 finger pocket and jump around the bulge, control the swing and finish matched on the jug just up and right. Australia's first V10 and still the benchmark.

Start way right on the two obvious holds, traverse left to join Monkey Grip, and finish up the problem.

Stand Start matched on the giant pebble/loaf. Make some hard moves via a 2 finger pocked. Finish matched on the huge jug pocket at head height.

Stand Start in the dish undercling scoop, move up and left via some bomber edges to sloper. Continue left and finished matched at the bottom left sloper of the giant scoop. Can be climbed into the scoop via big pocket for full value.

Dyno

Small flakes up the consistently overhanging wall. Looks about grade 1 million ! Closed Project until 2023

Stand start on a flat left hand edge and a low right hand pocket. Smear feet and move up dynamically then up again and exit left.

Sleep Orca exiting direct via a committing throw. Absolute classic.

Start low on flat edge and big pinch. Do a few moves and exit to the lip as early as possible. OG beta didn't use the pocket but probably same grade if you need to use it.

Start at tree right of corner, using pocket then straight up to roof and traverse left under roof and up shallow corner to ledge. Technical corner work then follow line to crux moves at very top . . . 'Cull The Sac' variant. Climb past roof and up to ledge at half-height ~23. Sling-horn to lower, then flick it off to retrieve.

Start as for Rhythm Method but follow the right hand line of rings up the wall after 4m. Rhythm And Stealth is a rad boulder problem on top of another boulder problem with chunky moves and fingery holds. Quite a nice solid number if the weather is not so good but jugs in the cold.

Start as for Mr Meaner for 3 bolts then move a bit L. Sustained crimping for about 10m of independent climbing, eventually joining the top flake of Mr Magoo. Continue into Super Goo to the top of the cliff.

Very sequency and originally graded 33 with consideration to modern climbing strengths and a loss of old school techniques. However it seems the modern climbers' old school techniques were underestimated. As a result most ascentionists consider the route to be about 30, with a few different sequences possible. As more people tick the route, the consensus grade will average out.

A crag classic. Originally bolted and chipped by Kim Carrigan, this was the first route after Giles' Hairline 2000 to be climbed. The climbing on this landmark route is typical of the Blue Mountains. (Chipping is by no means a theme of the crag and is actually limited to this route. This route gives no justification for further manufacturing here or anywhere else in the Blue Mountains.)

Garth

A great line, fun moves and quite sustained.

Supposed to be the easier variant to Mr Tickle, some people lacking adequate forearm fitness actually find it to be harder. Start as for Mr Tickle but traverse left and finish up Hairline.

Bouldery and gymnastic with an engaging thought provoking finish. Needs a very alert belayer on the start moves as the too-low 1st bolt barely keeps you off the deck if the start holds are wet and you spooge off the (otherwise easy) move.

Another early classic. Enjoy. A few long draws will be handy.

A nice long excursion, some say easier than 'Some Kind of Bliss', some say harder. Great rock and position all the same.

Start: Start as for 'Some Kind of Bliss', go right after the 1st bulge.

A couple of bolts up high need replacing.

An excellent route that offers consistently difficult climbing in between large jugs!! Mandatory climbing at grade 26 in between the top 4 bolts, culminating in an all out dyno at the 2nd to last move, cementing the route's classical status and guaranteeing an exciting crux. 20 meters right of Phil's project, at the base of the wall's obvious flake system. Batman start

As for Heatseeker to the first crux above the obvious break. From here break left and follow the slopers, pinches, crimps and jugs. Oh, and pockets!! Up the awesome baked red wall that only red ledge offers.

Rad rad route, up some of the best rock around. Quality bouldering with jugs to seperate the difficulties, and a sustained finish. A great toilet bowl feature, batman or climb the mud to the first bolt.

Good value route with 3 Boulder problems of different styles with easier climbing around them. Hardest route on the wall.

The hard man line of the crag. Looks amazing.

Start from the cairn and head up and across the right face to rejoin the arete at half height. Boulder up leaning arete to finish above the small roof.

Start 3m right of Kitten Mittens behind the large rock at cliff base. Head up and left to join the last few bolts of Tiger Cat.

A similar linkup to Tiger Vinyl, but stays in Love Cats all the way to Beta Vinyl then takes Beta Vinyl to the top. Doing it this way avoids some of the zigging and zagging that TV has.