Routes in Australia for selected grade

Left of shake your trees. LH in sidepull pocket RH in big flake. Pull on and head straight up.

Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'.

Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor.

The furthest left route on the small cliff. Pleasant climbing straight up.

Ringbolt then 4 FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off.

Start: At the belay anchor at the top of Troposphere's second pitch.

Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join 'C Section'. Very fun; wish it was a whole route using similar moves as the start.

A wild jaunt up some unlikely looking territory that deposits you on Halfway House ledge. Nice climbing movement with placements where you need them on some really amazing rock. Leader should be solid at the grade to avoid an epic. Take two racks of cams, one set of wires and rp's.

Start right of Rubicon and 3m left of Clemency below orange cave.

1. 15m (16) Climb delicately trending slightly leftwards heading for sloping block at small ledge at base of vertical wall. Some solid placements if you search around. Trad belay at base of block. Note: beware large detatched block to right of belay.

2. 15m (19) Mount block and dont miss RP placement at chest height before balancing straight up the wall on sidepulls and high feet heading for left side of orange cave. Trad belay in large crack on left end.

3. 15m (17) Step left from belay to lip of cave and head straight up through steep blockiness on great rock until you reach Rubicons' first bolted belay on left.

4. 20m (Crux) (20) Step right from belay to steep groove right of arete and straight up. This pitch has some fantastic movement on great rock. Head straight up staying right of the arete to belay from small crack at back wall of orange alcove.

5. 10m (20) Trend diagonally left up headwall to surmount large bulge 5m right of Rubicons exiting moves. Hand traverse the lip until reaching a spot to mantle onto ramp. Head left to belay from Rubicons' final bolted belay.

Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner

Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join Tenacious D to finish.

Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner.

Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip anchor on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'.

Start: Shares first bolt with Elite Rebuplican Guard. Caution: Clipping the first bolt can be difficult if you have a short reach.

A quality moderate sport route featuring mostly big holds but also harbouring a technical crux. Head slightly R and roughly follow the line between orange and grey rock clip five more bolt's to anchor. Steeper than it looks.

4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade.

Start: At the "D", directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up, 2m L of Guenevere.

Climb 4m up to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge and clip FH. Steep corner through bulge, then follow up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge with DBB from here you can continue up the Tested Twistical variants.

1. 30m (19) Start as per PC, up crack on good gear to overhang, then straight up through the shallow chimney on scant holds & gear, to gain ledge above, then trend Right along this to crack corner & belay.

2. 32m (13) Up the obvious crack corner, beautiful laybacking, bridging and wall climbing & solid gear. Gain a small stance where Faith crosses wall and belay off tree/bush.

3. 32m (12) Traverse R and up continuation of corner, to finish on ledge & TB. From here, head up Right, across a vegetated scree slope, to join the Caves Route below Trojan.

3m L of Remains Of The Day.

1. 30m (18) Trends ever so slightly left. Awkward and a wee bit exciting with long runouts. Scamper quickly up easy ground to single ring and double ring anchor.

2. 30m (17) Trends quite a way towards the left, avoid the ancient relic carrot and hanger at about half way. Mind the choss before the belay.

3. 20m (20) Up through some bad rock to small roof, left and up with balance and strong manoeuvres to once again encounter easier ground above the bulge.

4. Pitch 4 options: 4a) 35m (17) Wander right off the belay, up the steep gully and skirt under overhang then continue up using a couple of chimney moves or brave the face out to the right. Up slab to step left onto stoney ledge, up through the shrubbery to belay on right hand end of bushy ledge. This pitch is very wandery and should not be rappelled. 4b) 28m (24) From belay, head straight up and over slab passing a single ring and chain belay. Continue left up the tricky overhanging corner and pull the lip with a few punchy moves. over the lip head right through shrubbery to a DBB on a bushy ledge.

5. 25m (16) Up from belay avoiding the 'less than inspiring rock'. Move across left to gain easier ground around a gentle corner.

6. 25m (14) Up and gingerly step left across gap continuing up and then right avoiding the hanging blocks, very easy ground to the top of the ridge, look for the Airtime rap and belay hangers over on the left, they are on vertical rock under an overhang. Don't climb any higher as rap becomes problematic from here. You would also need trad gear to continue to the top on the top pitch of Airtime.

Ten sport draws are sufficient however two additional long or extending draws would help to smooth out rope drag in places. Take a 70m rope if intending to link pitches.

Rap using one of the options:

A) Rap back down route.

From Airtime anchors rap by walking backwards along tip toe ridge trending slightly to the right (looking back up the ridge) to the bushy ledge anchors at the top of the 4th pitch. Rap from the top of the 4th pitch by walking back left i.e. down the alternate (24) pitch not down the (17) pitch, you can rap to the 3rd pitch DBB by doing it this way. From the top of the 3rd pitch rap to the top of the second pitch, you'll have to rap past the rap anchors due to the overhanging nature of the terrain, climb about 2 metres back up to the DBB. From here you can either rap to the ground via an intermediate rap chain half way directly down or continue rappelling down via the 1st pitch by rapping to the end of your rope and carefully walking 10m to the right to the DBB anchor of the 1st pitch. Due to the rappels being not straight down be mindful to not let go of your rope when anchoring in at DBB's. You should only need one 60 metre rope for climbing and rappelling if you follow instructions.

B) Down Airtime Over Pumicestone.

2x 60m ropes required. Straight down the bushy gully for about 40m. Then small belay ledge on left. Straight abseil to hanging belay under a tiny overhang on right. Then rap to ground.

First Contact begins 5m L of Banished For Infidelity. 7 FHs, lower-off.

2m L of FC. Shiny silver FH's, finishing at the slightly lower, visible anchor.

4m L of Insurrection VS. Thuggy off the ground. Straight up and through the overlaps. Slightly L, slightly R. 8 FHs, lower-off. Harder than LOAJP.

3m L of NMS, starting up on little platform. Stickclip. Tricky little start, then smooth sailing through mini roof and up blocky wall. 8 FHs, lower-off.

An old school adventure with everything you know and love about Tibro - marginal gear, questionable rock, weird slabs and plenty of exposure! The name is a nod to the pioneers of yesteryear who encouraged us to put this route up in traditional ground-up style, as well as a reference to the relics found enroute which suggest it was attempted and abandoned some decades previous.

Gear: Single rack to #3 Camalot with doubles/triples in microcams such as X4's or Aliens. RP's, ball nuts recommended. Double ropes and a VERY solid leader mandatory.

1. 30m (15) Start approximately 20m left of Airtime Over Pumicestone. Climb left facing corner, trending left and up to bowl. Gear improves as you go. Tree belay with ancient tat from abandoned attempt.

2. 65m (20R) Might only be a 18/19, but the grade reflects the serious nature of this pitch. Up and left from the belay to an old piton that appears to have been the high point of a prehistorical attempt. From here, an airy traverse takes you rightwards across the "Diving Board" feature on very marginal gear and occasionally horrific rock. Keep trending right and up to a small arete with committing moves upwards to a PR. Keep climbing to a ledge, then up the short technical corner with bad fall potential. Thank your chosen deity as you arrive on an easy slab, following this leftward with spaced gear to a tree belay. Option exists to split this pitch with a semi-hanging belay at the base of the slab.

3. 55m (17R) From the belay, a rightward traverse with tremendous exposure and spaced gear leads to a shattered corner. Up this on spooky rock and thin gear to a chimney. Climb this, following a natural weakness to a bushy alcove with a natural belay.

4. 50m (9) Up unprotected but easy slab with a bit of bushbashing. At the small headwall, take the gulley to the left then follow the line of least resistance to the top of the vegetated pillar. The line then merges with Airtime Over Pumicestone.

Descent: Either finish up the excellent final pitch of Airtime over Pumicestone (Grade 19, 40m) or carefully follow the vegetated ridge down and right to a DBB under a small alcove. Three rappels with 2x 60m ropes will bring you to the ground.

Unknown sport route on the right side of Cave 4.

Start just right of the 'T' for Trojan. The access pitch to In Between Dreams and Summit Sutra. Balance start to some stemming moves.

1. 30m (20) Bloody awesome. Really well bolted and keeps you thinking all the way. There's an optional large wire or 0.75 cam if you're having trouble getting to the first FH. As for Big Empty for the first three bolts, then break out right and follow the line of FHs leading up and right to DBB.

2. 15m (18) Cross over Short and Sweet (reach out left and clip Walk the Line's first FH with a long sling). Head up Circlet clipping its first RB. Instead of reaching left to clip the second RB, continue directly up the wall past two FH's. Follow big holds leftwards around the arête and up (FH) until you reach an anchor in a grand position. From the anchor, it's 35m rappel to the ground or two raps if you stop at the pitch 1 anchor.

A proud line. Start by scrambling up onto vegetated terrace 25m right of Line of Credit, then walk off left end of terrace 3m to tree. Belay out of wide crack. Double ropes essential. Up left around bulge, then up to first of three black FH's. Up and left to ledge (big gear). Right off ledge to horizontal break in superb marble-like stone, then back left to FH. A long undercling move, then up to last FH. RP's take you up the ever steepening wall, then a good wire and a thankful rest on easy ground. Slab to chains. Well protected with careful placements.

Groove/crack to its end. Up wall trending right to S crack and double hanger anchor with quick links. Small to medium gear. Well protected along the route and before the cruxes.

Start 2m R of Old Elvis, unmarked.

A popular line that follows 5 FHs before trending L to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Old Elvis.

10/15m left of Sideshow Bob. One hard move. Shares anchors with Fairy Floss.

An adventure route up an interesting section of Tibro. Take some long slings and 14 draws and either a double rope or trail a second rope if rapping (40m rap). Optional #3 C4 Camalot or medium hex, although most leaders will be confident running it out or slinging ironwoods in the absence of gear. There are some run out sections and there are patches of poor rock, interspersed with sections of fun and exposed climbing.

Access: From the old climber's carpark, take the right fork of the Tibrogargan track, heading north. Follow the track until you reach some chairs and a picnic table, after which you'll ascend some steps to find a small trail leaving the main track on the left. Follow this to the base of Candy Mountain. The Ross Miller Route starts directly above this small crag. To access this ledge, head left uphill until the rock face turns back in to form an alcove with a large tree in it. Scramble up the rock on the right-hand side of the tree and traverse right for about 20m. You will find a leftward trending gully with bolts on the headwall directly on its right-hand side. The route begins here.

Route:

1. 25m (18) Up to FH then tricky moves right to 2nd FH, follow the line of FH's avoiding suspect rock as necessary.

2. 25m (15) Typical Tibro face climbing following line of FH's, when you reach the ironwood bushes, clip the abseil re-direct sling and continue up and left to the anchor.

3. 20m (11) Head up the obvious corner directly above the anchor (optional gear) to the tree (sling), continue up the corner to the next tree (sling) then delicately step right and head up to FH on headwall then continue up to anchor.

4. 25m (18) Up following FH's right of blunt arete.

5. 25m (19) Engaging climbing following FH's into corner and out onto top face, continue up to anchor.

6. 15m (13) Climb slabby section following FH's trending left in the second half to anchor at base of head wall.

7. 15m (19) Left off the belay to first FH then cruxy moves for a couple of metres past FH's to anchor avoiding the crumbly holds.

8. 30m (16) Follow the line of well-spaced FH's to anchor, stop to peer into the madness of sport climbing in cave 5 on the way.

There are various descent options, including:

• Continue climbing slightly left and up unprotected but easy climbing and good rock and either rappel left into Cave 5 or down the Caves Route chimney then descend the Caves Route, or

• Traverse right along ledge to scrubby bushes and the 5th anchor of SBB, climb its (unprotected) 6th pitch and walk off, or

• Rap back down the route in 6 pitches:

  1) 30m Straight down to previous anchor (top pitch 7).

  2) 40m Straight down to anchor at top of 5.

  3) 40m Down into free air and then scramble left to anchor at top of pitch

  4) 20m Straight down between the trees then scramble left on the ledge to anchor at top of pitch 2, be careful of loose blocks and small rocks here.

  5) 25m Traverse out right underneath ironwood bushes and clip rope through permanent sling and biner to redirect abseil (missing as of August 2018, rap straight back down to anchor at top of pitch 1 or it may be possible to reach the ground on a 50m rap.

  6) 25m To ground and scramble out the way you came in.

This is a modern incarnation of the historic North-East Buttress route. It does cross the original line in several places, although the original route remains largely undisturbed.

Access: From the old climber's carpark, take the right fork of the Tibrogargan track, heading north. Follow the track until you reach some chairs and a picnic table, after which you'll ascend some steps to find a small trail leaving the main track on the left. Follow this to the base of Candy Mountain. Around 15m past the right hand side of Candy Mountain is a vegetated weakness faintly marked NEB.

Start up easy buttress about 10m left of vegetated weakness. "Sbo" marking has disappeared, but the route can be identified by a fixed hanger just left of a small tree at around 6m in height.

Gear: Fully bolted route with some runouts, except for 20m on pitch 6. Single rack to #2 Camalot, focus on small wires and cams. All DBB for belays, some rust on mallions but still functional (as at Aug 2018).

1. 28m (10) Easy climbing up buttress (Grade 4) to FH at 6m (left of small tree), continue up into gully passing another FH to awkward DBB on R face.

2. 30m (13) Go left off belay to FH, follow line of FH and a wire just before DBB.

3. 30m (15) Straight up following the FH's to DBB.

4. 45m (16) Nice long pitch with FH and gear, with a tricky move around a smooth mottled rock section to DBB on ledge.

5. 20m (13) Easy climbing right off belay, following FH's into vegetated gully with a DBB or optional tree belay.

6. 30m (20 crux) Hard stemming moves with protection improving as you progress up the crack. When crack veers right 30 degrees, escape the nastiness by boldly stepping right onto the face, enjoying the abundant fresh air and with relief clip the FH, then past another to DBB (admire old belay hardware to the right from a bygone era).

7. 32m (16) Step left off belay under manky block to FH, then straight up following more FH's (passing rusted relics of the past) with a cruxy move near the top, DBB.

8. 32m (10) Scramble up to NE shoulder and belay on tree or walk right 10m to 5th DBB of Sunburnt Buttress and climb unprotected final pitch to DBB.

Descent: Tourist Track or Caves Route (4x raps), or as for Blabbermouth/Sunburnt Buttress. Do not use Caves route raps if you left shoes at the base of the climb as this variant requires a lot walking between rap points.

Start at the 'Rock Garden' chimney at R end of alcove, 10m L of the 'Peeping Tom' pillar at 'Shadow Glen'. Marked with a small square.

1. 28m (18) Climb up the 'Rock Garden' chimney for a few moves then step R and follow line of FHs to DBB.

2. 34m (16) Follow FHs traversing L (line of FHs going R then up is 'The Chris Mann Route') across 'Rock Garden' to DBB shared with 'Blabbermouth'. End of this pitch is very run out without trad gear.

3. 25m (19) Straight up past 3 FHs then traverse directly L following more FHs to DBB. Due to traversing involved, the second needs to be confident.

4. 36m (16) Follow FHs L then up to DBB.

5. 45m (14) Gradient easing now. Well-spaced FHs (can supplement with occasional trad placement) to DBB.

6. 20m (10) Solo up short easy wall to DBB at top.

1. 28m (5 bolts). As for Sunburnt Buttress.

2. 26m (6 bolts). Step right from DBB and up past several bolts and optional small cam and hidden wire out left (extend). Step right to clip another bolt then up trending slightly to the left to finish on ledge next to bush. DBB.

3. 45m (12 bolts). Step right from belay and head straight up past 3 FH's, stepping left around the arete at the third. Continue up arete passing assorted trad placements and bolts, finishing at "The Perch" belay.

Pitch 3 can be abseiled on a single 80m rope, otherwise you'll need to join two 50 or 60m ropes to abseil pitch 3.

"A tribute to urban development". A great sustained slab that has been recently updated with 4 additional bolts and an independent finish. Starts 10m right of Highlander at clean slab with line of FHs that splits onto two lines about 10m up. Brick Boxes takes the left line and has a bit of a spicy traverse left at the crux. The rap chain is hidden from below. The '90s version of this route was the first "sport route" on Tibro despite it involving soloing to the current 4th bolt and finishing right to shared anchor of The Black Planet.

Nice climbing on excellent rock with only a brief crux - substantially easier than Brick Boxes. Shared first 3 bolts with Brick Boxes then take the right line of bolts. The rap chain is getting rusty but is still fine to use. The '90s version of this route was missing the first 3 bolts. Yikes!

Start 5m L of 'Southern Cross'. Marked "WH".

A difficult move to clip the 2nd bolt. A hold may have come off since the original grading of 18? Regardless, holds are there and just need to be found. Goes well once you know the sequence. Rebolted 2014.

Best route on the pillar - sustained. Start 2m to the R of & 2m down from 'Afternoon Delight'. Stickclip high first bolt from ledge on the left but start the climb down right. 3 shiny new RBs to lower-offs. Retrobolted (with permission) 2015. Take care clipping the 2nd bolt, as there has been at least one ground fall.

Starts in the same ravine as 'Claustrophilia', at it's opening - hidden above the vegetated corner 15-20m R of 'Trench Tactics'. To find the ravine either climb up the easy slab from below (dodgy trad), or walk to its top from above 'The Cave (closed)' and rap down.

Stickclip 1st FH then use tree to gain start jugs. Up past 2nd FH, #1 or 1.5 SLCD placement and 2 more FHs to rap station.

Start as for 'Serenade For Rings'.

Don't clip the retro BR at the top of the 'SFR' slab. Instead head R and up past 3 RBs. Finish at the anchors shared with 'SFR'.

Start 1m R of 'Sticky Fingers'. Up slab to shaft. Up this with awkward placements to ledge. Clip FH and blast through bulge. Continue up shaft on RP's, small wires and a FH to ledge. Finish directly up 'Hex Heaven's flared corner.

Marked 'BD'. Bold face climbing up the blank wall with only small RP's as protection. Once past the first 10m, it eases to fairly juggy climbing and a tree belay.

Start: About 10m east of Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Below flared shallow chimney.

1. 20m. Up chimney.

2. 30m. Bridge up corner and up. Comments: Quite interesting. Harder than it appears from below.

Start below highest section of cliff with orange-white headwall, about 15m L of 'Rumble In The Jungle'.

Start where track from carpark reaches cliff, just right of the eponymous 'hanging garden' of ferns on the cliff. 2m L of 'Hijinx'.

Fun pumpy moves up overhanging wall past FH, BR, BR and FH finishing at DBB.

Obvious tessellated wall & arete just a few meters R of 'Hijinx'.

Preclip 1st bolt by leaning in from ledge to R but start direct. Crimpy moves up smooth face past BR, FH and BR to DBB. Harder if you avoid holds on arete. The terrible original anchor is still in place as some old crap on carrots, please use the newer chain anchor to the right.

The proud right-trending arch/roof starting at the far left of the crag. Place gear in the crack on the left of the climb all the way to the anchors. Plenty to choose from. Avoid using any bolts. The FA used a full set of cams from micro to #6, plus some nuts and hexes, but you might be braver. Crux is the last few metres. Bolted top anchor. Rap or belay down to the 1st Maiden Voyage anchors, then rap to the base. Or rap as far as you can (tie end knots) and scramble down the rest.

Starts at the 1st anchors of MV. Up and veer right, then follow bolts up to DBPG anchors. Fun, slabby mental game. Descend as per DBPG.

Start is found by walking 50 m past mosquito wall. Track heads away from apron and when it ascends back up to rock apron walk left up tongue of vegetation to gain rock.

Quite the adventure was had on the first ascent. Ground up on sight, with a 10 meter slide on the descent by Tony Barten which was fielded by Hamish Ousby who then joined in untill the slide was arrested. (Note, descent is slippery in the rain.)

1 80m. 4 runners

Startup slab towards bushes. Break out left to avoid the bushy gully. Up steepening slab. Boldly looking for runners, at about 30 meters a runner appears. Continue straight up on crossly flakes and nonexistent foot smears for a bit. When all looks, bad remember the rule, climbers do not cry. Continue towards vegetated ledge, moving left at last instance, crossing water polished holds to gain vegetated ledge. Runners are noticeably lacking. Belay on nonexistent gear above vegetation.

2 30m

Move belay up to next island of vegetation. Easy climbing, no runners, no bolts, no belay, no fun.

3 55m.

Up the water polished slab moving left to bottom of crack. Gently up start of crack passing block balancing in bush. Try not to let it drop on your belayer on the imaginary belay below. The crack offers up a good runner above the block just as the the rock gets friable. A few jams, some lay backing, some edging gets you well above your runner and into the crux. Remember the rule, climbers do not cry! Struggle up the off widthy, chimney, thrutchy crack thing, for a bit until a handy chock stone presents itself which you can sling. Unfortunately, the top of said chock stone is just sitting there waiting to be dropped on the belayer on the imaginary belay. Remember Climbers DON’T CRY. Once past this continue up to second tree where a bomb proof runner was excavated from the dirt filled crack. You will see why you do not belay at first tree.

4 45m.

Up crack on the left with a good runner. Think its over. Ha! Move up slabs till able to place a runner. Now continue up the slab. It gets a bit thin, friable and that runner you thought was so good before now gets hard to see as it fades into the distance. Remember that rule from the previous pitches? Continue onwards. Soon the angle eases, the holds get better the climb ends. The runners still do not appear. To get off walk bush bash up ridge above till tourist track is gained.

It is actually quite good.

Start 20m right of Adventure Gardeners

Scramble up to right hand side of vegetated ledge, then scramble left to slab with lots of peeled flakes.

Named in honor of Mr Ousbys massive bruised buttocks obtained from a 8 meter fall on the first attempt at the route. Lovely purple blue and yellow. A fantastic effort by Hamish in establishing this route ground up on sight, placing bolts whilst hanging on for life. Destined to be a mega classic test route. Can be a bit run out in places.

1.55m Start is a very tenuous slab so it may be best to stick clip the first bolt.

Smear and edge up slab always trending slightly left. Passing 5 bolts to DB belay.

2 40m

Continue up and left of vegetation to steepening buttress above, move diagonally left past bolt then up crack and corner till able to step left to DB belay

3 55m

Climb right over crack to gain slab on steep buttress. Place a cam blindly in crack on left. Get your belayer to confirm that it is placed well.(this will let you know if you are good friends.) Up wards passing 4 bolts and gear till able to pull into cave at end of pitch. Room for 2 to bivy if your belayer proved there friendship earlier!

4 10m

Its all over. (Well sort of )

Out of cave hand traverse left for a few moves. Then up easily on loose shattered blocks.

Bush bash up hill till tourist track is met at right side of organ pipes then down the horror of the tourist track fielding questions all the way back to car

Start as for Satan Spawn. Up wall, diagonally R past FH to scoop. Up wall above (SLCDs/wires) to a stance and BR. A reach move to small crack (SLCD) and slab up to the L to chain belay of SS.

Easy block hop up to high first bolt then follow ringbolts to DBB. Fun, thought provoking moves. There is an optional med/large hex between 4th & 5th bolt but the climbing here is easy.

Straight up to chains. (Yes, the second bolt of this and Excellent are very close, this may be fixed soon)

Left-hand extension to "White Castle". Step left at the anchors of White Castle and pull the rooflet

This climb starts off on the big vegetated ledge after climbing the first pitch of DIVINE COMEDY. We found the rock quality to be better this way and it finishes up a unique water runnel. The best time to climb on the south side is from April until August as it has all day shade. Because of the all day shade allow for significant drying times after rain.

The name for this climb is after an experience we had upon our FA attempt. We were walking around to the south side and almost at waynes world when 2 hikers appeared from the bush. "Is this the way to the general " they asked. We all look at each other puzzled " Do you mean the tourist track " I ask. "yeah you know, the general way up " they reply. We joked about it the rest of the day and the name stuck.

PITCH 1 Grade 19, 15m. From the pitch 1 anchors of DIVINE COMEDY start traversing right around arete following fixed hangers. Good to use an extender on bolt just around arete to stop rope damage if falling.

PITCH 2 Grade 18, 30m. From DBB climb up through chimney to ledge then follow flake feature up to DBB.

PITCH 3 Grade 20 From DBB climb straight up keeping the fixed hangers on your left until you reach water runnel feature in which you climb through the middle.

From the top of Pitch 3 you can scramble up to a vegetated area and go off rope. From here you can either follow the goat track left and continue on with DIVINE COMEDY or keep going left to meet up with the tourist track.

Start: 2m left of Super Size Me (carroted route), below the right facing corner. Nice, well protected face climbing. Up face, to first u-bolt out left, the up corner crack, passing 2 more u-bolts, chains up left, above Shanny.

Start: 60m left, down the hill from Chocolates, near some large blocks on the ground.

1. 45m - 14 Take the thin line, towards a right facing corner, above a roof. Up steep twin seams on scant gear, to a grassy pocket, continue up on improving gear, then trend right as the angle eases, to a bolted belay below the prominent roof.

2. 50 19 - Crux move right off the belay, into the corner above, following 3 FHs, to a good stance, then gear placements (left), up slab over loose flakes, trending left, to DBB.

3. 50m - Straight up the slab, look for a thin crack & the only gear on this pitch, up the comparatively easy slab to a large terrace & TB. NB: the rap slings are probably worn: take one or two with & abseil back down the route.

Sit start in groove with left hand on crimp on face and right hand on higher crimp in the groove (shorties may need to stack pads for right hand) Bust up through jugs and mantle out. For the full experience throw some dirt on the top holds before attempting the problem.

Stand start in the middle of the wall then head straight up.

Nice solid holds, using the tree makes it easier.

Start in the corner about 20m L along the cliff from 'Elfin' & 'No Biggie'.

Climb the corner then traverse R onto the face and up past 4 FHs to the anchors.

The anchors consist of 2 solid FHs with new stainless hardware for lowering. However, 3 old rusty mallions are still in place. Whoever has the chance/tools/inclination please remove them.

Feels committing, but once you do it's a shoe in.

Delicate start to easier finish

The Northern face of The Watcher boulder

Matt's route on the right side of The Watcher boulder. Originally tried in 2015, returned 5 years later with pads and spotters.

Sit start same as into the jungle and move right to climb up the juggy face. finish standing on the ledge

From the ledge beneath the jumping rock, up left through the Water dragons' perch, up up and away!

Set off from birds of paradise (V4) or Rainbow lorikeet (V1) and take the high road traversing the whole wall through the steepest part, exiting (exciting!) Onto the far shore with difficulty. Watch the poor landing in the beginning (spotter who's prepared to jump recommended!)

From the traverse of rainbow lorikeets up the right side of the wall -caution is needed as there are submerged boulders under the first part of the route. A spotter and care recommended!

From underneath the severe overhang at the far left of the pool - you'll have to swim or wade to this one - traverse right to beneath the jumping rock using all footholds (including submerged V1). Jump in or finish up one of the routes there. Named after a large silvery spider that leapt into the water and swam down - and down!!

From UV belay station traverse left upward following the ramp. Once over the bulge it's easy climbing to the anchor. This large ledge give access to the Dawn Wall above.

3 Fhs on far left hand side of cave, lower off single RB.

The only non-steep warmup here. Stickclip. Stemming moves up past 3-4 bolts until it slabs out, then head well left to double rings.

A new warm-up option. Up TDLW for four UBs. Instead of traversing right as for TDLW, go straight up past another three UBs into the cave. Finish atop the diving board (double U-bolts). Lower-off.

DM with a batman start to the third bolt.

Toprope free version of The Dark Arts. Can toprope off the DBB atop Dead Bird Chimney.

The crack R of 'Winter Rages'. Anchors as for 'Winter Rages'.

1m left of Finding Adrenalin. Climbs the Line of black painted FH's. Finishes at anchor close to "snake Ledge". Small nuts, and a range of cams will see you to the anchors a few meters under Ill Gotten Gains.

To reach "Snake Ledge" via this route traverse left into Surface Complexity for it's last two bolts reaching the U-bolt anchor.

Start: Scramble up gully to find the first bolt. Belay here.

Some big gymnastic moves on monster jugs. Up the corner into steep terrain. Pull L onto the buttress at half height; watch out for loose blocks here. DBB on ledge just below "Snake Ledge". Using a 70m rope will get you back to the ground.

To access "Snake Ledge" Via this route continue up a further two bolts to anchor. Be mindful of scree.

Start at the next clearing ~20 m uphill from WWALTYNS beneath an obvious bucket jug. This route is the rightmost of a cluster of lines in quick succession.

1. 35m (20) Tricky start to first FH, then it's fairly straightforward, until you get to the third FH then it gets a bit cruxy until you're well and truly past the fourth FH, then continue up on a nice pocketed slab passing more FH's to a DBB.

2. 35m (14) Up passing two FH then navigate your way through the grassy scrub to third FH then continue up easy slab passing more FH's to DBB.

A bold lead! Intensity eases off once you gain the third FH.

Climbs the beginning of "Frequent High Flyers" and joins "The Green Hazy Cloud" at halfway.

Top route in the access gully.

Second climb from the left. Plenty of questionable rock and a big run out between the 3rd and the 4th bolt.

Face right of arete. Shares last bolt and anchors with Bruce. Can also share 1st bolt with Bruce, but isn’t required. 5FHs, 6FHs if using Bruce’s first.

Starts a few meters to the right of Bruce and Nemo. Stick clip the first bolt. A climb needing some thought.

Undercut start then up the steep left leaning crack. Break directly up the gently overhung white streak. Super solid features with good gear, shares anchors with Guam.

10min walk east of Sayonara Bitches along the cliff base, facing east. Stick clip first bolt. Start in centre left of cave and follow the obvious rib through the overhang onto the slightly hung headwall.

Delicately ascend through the large easy vegetated gully. Use long slings to reduce drag for 2nd half or break the whole climb into 2 pitches. Traverse right at the easy ground for 4 meters to the obvious crack. Plug in your gear and enjoy pro until about 3 meters from the top where you break left to easier ground. Tree belay. Easy walk to Katana. Very loose large stuff at top-out.

Climb the (somewhat green!) crack and flake L of enter the ninja, with some interference from the tree. Head L on the ledge and up the crack dissecting the bulging buttress. Take care with the chockstones and blocks up high to topout on ledge w/ anchors.

Arete RHS. High first bolt near arete. Somewhat engaging climbing requiring a steady hand. Should one be seized with fear, or suffer a sudden palsy up high, then disaster is imminent.

Starts uphill from ETN and climbs the wild scooped out overhang up high. Bit of a ramble, however, the top 6 metres is the steepest 20 you'll ever climb!

Straight up the centre of the chimney working your way in and out of a series of scoops. 9 hangers to anchors. Chossy start but gets better. Belayer wear a helmet!

Steep arete on pinnacle. What it lacks in length it makes up for with exposure and pumpiness! Use 1+mtr slings on anchors if lowering or alternatively abseil off to clean.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- December)