Routes in Australia for selected grade

Stand start on the ground in between the two boulders, slab-it-up to the top.

Alt start to SOC, starting in a stand with high RH positive pocket and LH small sloping pocket. Punch left untill you reposition yourself on the arete. Finish on SOC with a high committed mantle. Do not touch the tongue orchid above.

Start standing with LH in jug on the arête and RH in an undercling, at full arm’s length, with high feet. Move straight up on both sides of the blocky feature, with good holds on the left and slopey ones on the right.

Sit start on a good left hand side pull and a right gaston in the crack. Pull on and bump right to a slopy side pull and move left to a small but positive crimp on the face. From here, sort feet and move right to a sloper, then left to positive crimps up high to top out. Gets its name for some interesting foot beta that makes the start much easier.

Start half a meter to the left of Shark Repellent Bat Spray, also with the same style of start, matched on a good sloper.

Start 1m to the left of Robin on good right hand hold and left heel, go straight up and slightly right.

On the outside face of the cave, next to a orange water streak, begin stand-started with two smallish crimps. Weight your foot and statically pull on (jumping to the jug from the crimps without statically pulling on is a v1). The topout is abit poopy with a large plant living there.

Sit-start then up corner using crack.

Stand-start up slab to the left of the cave (start left of the tree)

Stand-start up the tall slab (left-side of boulder)

Start by climbing through a giant hueco on the right side of the cave and then straight up to mantle.

Start as for Overhead Transparency but half way up the fridge bust left and up the poopy slab.

Sit start. Both hands on lip of silly small cave. Feet to left on flat wall of cave. Mantle out. Beware loose holds on and above lip of cave. Beware falling down slope below. The name says it all for this silly climb.

Up slab with nice high feet, until up high, where you give Jesus the wheel and leave the rest to him.

Start to the right of Choose Wisely with good feet to start off with. Up really nice slab, climbing through the thin flakeline.

A link up of all the problems on the boulder. Some awesome stepthrough moves that make you feel like a slab pro. Step up Choose Wisely, then immediately traverse right up and across Slab King Pro, then tell Jesus to take the wheel, finishing up this.

Sit start on small LH pocket, and good RH. Boulder on the right is out. Climb the arete. Make like a Pandanus and up up up!

Stand start on the far left lower crack crimps. Traverse the crimps and horizontal cracks around the right arete for an easy slab top.

A nice clean crack climb, its about an inch wide.

Sit-Start to the left of the cave entrance and follow the obvious holds along the lip. Finish as for Too Soft. Beta- https://youtu.be/AhPA2D2BDb4

Straight up just to the right of small cave, take care with the top out.

A Traverse from start of Fox cross under Raven finish on single pocket

As for Brave Heart, but get scared at top and scurry left between boulders for an easy escape.

Sit start with hands on a big flake, then up to crimpy rail. Mantle up and reach for a big jug for easy top out.

Stand Start left of W.B.Y.H.B with incut LH hold and RH undercling. Straight up to pleasant pockets and a high top out on slopes above.

Start both hands in obvious bowl on left hand side of slab. Finish straight up.

Starting with the left side pull up to the rail, mantle finish.

Jump to slopey rail and mantle. A stretch beforehand is advised.

Longer version of Redbank Gillete Mach 3 that traverses further up the lip.

Grab the lip, find the good sloper and mantle.

Start up left hand hueco and finish straight up for an easy but committing problem.

Sit start with left hand in obvious low pocket between predominant flake and black log. Straight up to finish the same as 'Not a V1'. Holds right of the thin seam leading up the wall from the pocket are out.

Sit start on the jug of You're Too Old To Be A Jedi. Traverse left onto slopers then up one level to the shelf above. Continuing traversing left until you join Horned Banthas half way up. Finish on final hold of Horned Banthas.

Start on good flake at the start of the crack in the wall, straight up past crack line to horn finishing on jug just above.

Starts same as Gravel Pit, except head right and finish as for TIE Fighter.

Staring at the tree to the left of Obi-wans Revenge. Easy start from a scoop to a commiting sloping mantle topout

Sit-start on the left side of the cave looking outside- on obvious flat jugs. Move across the low line of jugs into a drop down move onto a shelf. Traverse across untill linking up into ROT.

Start in the middle of the lip on two jugs and a very high R Heel. Crank up and climb the steep ledges to finish on the highest jug in the roof above.

Start just to left of the Cherry Ripper start (when facing the back of the cave), with both hands and right heel in a jug. Traverse left onto the shelves and finish as for Rats of Tobruk.

Sit or squat start low on right side of cave looking in. Traverse up the lip till just before the tree and top out.

Stand start on the left side of the arete of “The Powerpuff girls” with LH Gaston pocket and RH arete. “What we do every night pinky, try to take over the world”.

Sit start from the rock below the boulder . A few small holds perfectly sized for your hands, good feet to start and a decent pinch. Work your way up using the arête. Watch your head on the tree branches as you get to the top.

Stand start on the east side of the boulder. Use the right side of the crack and poor feet.

Adding in the left face makes a V1.

A bold lead. Thin, strenous and poorly protected moves feature throughout this route up the face just right of Century. This was graded 17 but if you go directly up the face it's easily 21. Maybe some holds have come off, it's not the best rock, and the gear is very poor. Easily toproped off the chains though.

Absolute class! This fine sweeping corner is one of the best routes on the cliff. The climb offers magnificent bridging and laybacking, with strenuous thin hand jams and locks just to make your day! Superb protection the whole way settles the nerves... a little!

Classic face climbing. The thin seam takes you to a good stance at half height. Up the strenuous corner and airily onto the face. Continue shakily on (mostly) good holds. Poor gear to start and a few further moments of fiddly gear and friable rock. Easily to the top. Rap chain on the ledge.

Wander (probably roped) up gully right of Condor towards top of MPFC belay at base of left facing corner. Up this, then up finger crack and offwidth (which you can't see from the ground), left of the orange corner of Fawlty Towers. At ledge, step out right up finger crack. Scramble up to lookout to get off.

Shaky climbing on friable holds. Up the bottom crack of YUTV to a ledge. Lean out R and clip the bolt. Step down and traverse out R to the arete. From here, bowel quivering moves lead past another bolt, and some questionable RP's to the top.

Really good, but very short. Boulder up the shallow corner on small gear to the ledge. A few moves up the grunty corner take you to the next ledge. Carefully up loose gully to DMEG anchor or a short down climb to some rap trees.

The super thin finger crack to the right of DMEG. Short and pumpy, the difficulties are over within a few moves. Rap as for DMEG.

Hard to find. Starts high in the mank below (R as you face the cliff) the tourist lookout. Climb up a short crack on a small orange faced buttress. From the horizontal, launch directly up the face.

Crappy and dangerous. The corner found on the L side of the dark buttress to the R of DSEB. Up this and then traverse off L.

One of the most impressive lines on the cliff. Bridge up the line until the pillar stops. Step into the crack and blast up the ever widening crack. Chock stones and large gear can protect the top body chimney adequately.

A good way to avoid the body chimney of Erg. Step L into a short finger crack and blast up this to the top. Quite good.

Classic off-width thrashing up a glass smooth overhanging crack line... surprisingly unpopular really! Finish up a finger crack. It is very difficult not to step on or kick your gear out of place on the way up. Football jersey, jeans and knee pads are optional! Climbed by Ted Cais and Ian Thomas with one rest and avoiding the direct finish in July 1973.

A long sustained pitch up a striking line from the thin and steep start to old fashioned thrutching up the top third with good rock throughout. Quite a good route to go and beat yourself up on. Either climb down to the Whistling Kite chain or up and across to Blood, Sweat and Tears.

Start up LOTF until you can step left to corner formed by the pillar to the left. Up this hoping today is not the day the pillar falls down, then series of cracks above before exiting left out of chossy alcove. Save at least 1 big cam (3 or 4 camalot) for top crack you can't see from ground.

Surprisingly good long pitch. Starts with great finger locking, then steep hands, then funky 3d work around an offwidth to a final thrutch. Take multiple 4 and 5 camalots.

Probably the toughest 20 at Frog if you can't climb off-widths! Disregard this if you have a foot-long beard and 20-year-old EB boots in your possession. Up the brilliant hand crack to the off-balance, off-width through two bulges. Big cams keep things sane. Really impressive climbing!

This route no longer exists as it fell to the bottom of the cliff. Description here for historic purposes.

A two-move wonder right off the ledge, but what a hell of a way to start the climb! Desperately thin moves to a stance, sigh of relief and gear, easily up the fist crack to finish. Should be more popular.

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

False advertising at its worst. This route looks to be one of the most proud and stunning lines Frog. It isn't! The broken ramble to the corner then goes to a tricky corner problem with a seam for RPs etc on the L face. Most of the gear would hold...Maybe! The crack above is a bit of a light at the end of a very long, dark tunnel.

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

The arete just R of Worthless. This route starts just to the L of the semi-detached pillar. Cool moves up the arete are quickly forgotten by looking at the very dodgy bolt. Easy moves up the corner to finish.

Start at the small corner R of Sabrasucker. Bridge up this to a desperate little move onto the ledge. From here motor up one of the best and most pure cracks there is at Frog to the next ledge. It is best to get off here by stepping L through the chimney and rapping off as for Sabrasucker. If you must continue, add 20m, take off all the stars, lose all the enjoyment of the last 20m and thrash up some pretty ordinary climbing to the top.

The long groove 1m right of IP requires numerous crack masteries to get to the top! Up to the bulge, passing this on the R. From here up a long and desperate off-width like corner, stepping L at the top. Gear is adequate.

The first half of this climb is quite difficult with a very acrobatic and strenuous crux. Above this is a pretty average crack that steps R around a rooflet. The final crappy groove can be avoided by climbing the L face.

A good variant finish for PP. A beautifully exposed arete just to the R of the final groove on PP.

The first route ever climbed at Frog! Good bridging with adequate pro despite appearances. Excellent technical chimney climbing at the top as it narrows to a body crack. It helps to keep all your gear on a sling on your L hip! The first ascent actually skipped the top chimney by going L onto the face.

Brilliant. A desperate little move out of the cave sees you to a stance. Blast up this to a difficult thin section at half height. Grunt up the top to the ledge. Constantly interesting with bombproof gear all combine to make this route deservedly popular!

Really very good and deserves to be more popular. Originally done as a solo. The small dark wall to the left of COC offers enjoyable and classy face climbing. Yet another top rope candidate as the climbing should really not be missed. Take off a grade if you're tall!

The arête left of OA, one old carrot, #1 RP essential

Up Lape to the top of the pillar (you have already been warned). Step R and up the arete, then good pro and moves in the crack above. The move off the pillar is hard and unprotected.

An amazing route that is a must do. Up the tricky start to a ledge. Step L into the bottomless chimney, doing some funky moves up the corner. A desperate bulge at the top of this groove provides loads of excitement, as well as the crux. Flop with much joy onto the ledge. Belay is possible here. A tricky move off the ledge gains a small crack which eases off very quickly. Up the obvious line above to a ledge and rap rings.

Quite good. Up the initial corner to a hard move onto a ledge. From here, thin locking and classic bridging bring the top to hand.

This pump fest provides some of the best and most sustained crack climbing on the cliff. Blast up the unrelenting crack in the steep corner. The crux is unfortunately above a ledge at 2/3rd height with a good chance of hitting it, then easily to the top.

Tobin Sorenson did this in his sandshoes as his first route at the cliff.

Very nice! From the ledge at 2/3 height on CC, step R onto the arete. Super stylish moves and exposure past a bolt , and then into a small cracked corner at the top.

Marked by the initials "AA" for Artificial Aura, which was the climb's actual name (so named because it looked so ridiculously hard, but actually went quite easily). The route, however, had been named Cock Crack, and through the ages, no doubt due to Alzheimer's, alcohol and drug abuse, the names were swapped and Cock Crack was re-born! Climb the widening hand crack to a stance. Up the wide section by chimney moves or very classy and thin bridging to where the crack closes again. Motor up the brilliant crack and arete on super holds to finish. Big gear essential. Finish at the chains for Infinity.

Don't fall on this extremely under protected route... gravity will definitely win! Up Harlot for a move or two, then up the arete. Really classy moves, and quite enjoyable climbing. It's a pity the piton used on the first ascent didn't stay in! Some pro can be found in the crack around on the L face, but it won't help much if you fall near the top.

Brilliant face climbing up the thin face on the far L of the ledge. Despite appearances, protection is excellent throughout the whole climb (provided you have RPs), and it is a must do at the grade.

A better variant finish for OG. At the start of the last groove on OG, step R and climbing the thin crack up the face. Be careful as the first few moves are completely unprotected and you could be reduced to a whimpering mess with the technical and exposed moves above.

3 very different hard sections. Start at the body crack about 8m R of OG past tree to ledge. Difficult moves up thin hands/fingers crack leads to a rest at a tree. Easier hand crack to desperate exit and an anchor here would really make this a worthwhile route. In the meanwhile, suffer up the last grotty 3m then traverse to Satyricon's anchor.

This long-neglected corner offers brilliant bridging and jamming up a long sustained line! Bridge up the initial corners to the cave at 2/3rd height. A hard move around this to the top, and many celebration beers at the "Doogs". Rap chains on the pillar.

Put a high runner the start of Satyricon, then step R onto the arete and up. Pass 2 very lonely and dodgy looking pitons, then climb the wall above.

Even whispering the name of this route has struck panic and fear into the heart of many an aspiring leader. Up the ever widening off-width to the L of SA. Specially cut lengths of pipe were originally used to protect this visionary route. Big Bros and large cams (and plenty of them) should keep the Grim Reaper at bay nowadays! Jeans and a footy jersey would be a handy addition to the rack of any would be ascentionist.

A very popular route, and deservedly so. Up the classic line on superb finger locks and jams to an easy but grotty chimney finish. To rap, either use chains on SA (left) or YGH (right). Easiest way is the tree directly above the route that will get you back to Warlock ledge with a 70m rope.

Direct start to Warlock.

A short little variation of DOTJ. Instead of climbing the short organge corner, climb the R underside of the ear shape that makes the R wall of the corner. Not much better, and pretty contrived.

If you wish to log this climb, please do as at Odin II. This climb was regraded to a 21 after the "magic block" was dislodged in June 2017. Odin remains as a historical relic, to record the ascents of those who did it during the "magic block" era.

This classic climb used to be the test piece for all budding rock gods in the 1970's. Up the initial orange crack system to a stance below the "magic block". A tricky move above this into a narrow groove. The hand and fist crack above keeps you puffing the whole way! Hard for the grade.

Take care with all the hanging blocks in the vicinity of the roof.

Odin without the magic block (as of June 2017) seems a fair bit harder. Take some 4 camalots.

Take care with all the hanging blocks in the vicinity of the roof.

A complete classic; this climb used to be the test piece for all budding rock gods in the 1970's. To view ascents logged before the magic block was dislodged, you can still find them under Odin. To see what the climb looked like with the magic block in situ, you can see Rick White climbing it here (but don't blow your onsight!):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYqm_qZ1e6Y&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR3bqLX1KnC0UEmAvpLarEGnEXlhRK_U6-RZlFBWgPxpP-I8KH5hOHLlhco

A bit silly and contrived, I think the original is better. Once above the roof, step back and L and up the arete past a bolt and a piton, finishing up Odin.

The dark, smooth corner to the L of If is a direct start. Up this on very thin gear with no real worthwhile pro. Continue as for If. A serious proposition for those just leading at the grade.

An absolute classic test piece locking and jamming problem. A hard start gains a stance at 2m. From here, climb the unrelenting corner with excellent gear, stances and locks. Keep plugging and moving like a punch-drunk boxer, as the lactic acid build-up ever so surely creeps up on you. There are just enough stances and holds to keep you from being reduced to a whimpering mess. A DBB can be found above the ledge as you top out.

A R to L girdle, but fun for a change of scenery and direction! Up SO for 5m, then step L to the 1st piton of If. Edge across Decade, and bridge with much trepidation into Odin level with the large jug and flake. Across and up into Thor, as far as the overhang, then traverse onto the Warlock Ledge and off.

Brilliant! Start up the off-width to a ledge at 4m (alternatively, you can start up HG for 4m and then step L onto the same ledge). From there up the awesome finger crack with excellent face holds and locks to a thin crux at half height. From there, up the hand and fist crack to a ledge. Go up the broken corner at the back and right to double rings. Bring second rope to get down.

This climb has some really nice moves on it. Unfortunately, it also has a huge loose boot-shaped rock at 1/2 height. The loose rock and poor pro continues above this. Flop onto the same ledge as for TGBBGPM. Although it looks like a classic, there are far better options on either side!

Absolutely classic, although your calves will hate you for your efforts! So named because Barber somehow managed to miss this fine line on his "tick every classic in sight" tour of '75. Enjoy the crack work and bridging moves up the long corner with superb gear throughout. Top out to Conquistador ledge rap chains, you will need two ropes or a single 70m to get back down.

If there is one route that simply must be done at Frog... this is it! Possibly the most magnificent outing at the grade ever! Jam with joy up the initial crack section to a stance at half height. From here, a hard move on finger locks in an overhanging section brings the world's most welcome jugs. Motor up the classy finish with moves that would make anyone look stylish! Rap chains can be found on the ledge.

This daunting line is simply magnificent. Up the twin cracks on locks and jams that would leave a poet short for words. From here, continue up to where the cracks merge to form a single, steep, fingers to fists crack. A hard move to the ledge provides a classic sting in the tail.

Not as good as the previous 2 routes. Although the actual moves are fantastic, there are far too many loose blocks and holds to make this climb enjoyable. Dodgy pro can also be found in abundance; if you're into that stuff, you should love it!