Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Jaffle Wall | |||||
22 | ★★ Hold Tight
FA: Peter Daish, 2000 | 50m | |||
21/22 | ★ Toxic Shock
Cliimb through roof and slightly right leaning crack line. Decent can be via Cup Cake rap chains. | 27m | |||
22 | Exciting New Menu
| 15m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie The Ramparts | |||||
22 | ★★★ Expiry Date
| 55m | |||
22 | ★★ Remnant
| 120m | |||
22 | ★★★ Nemesis
| 130m | |||
23 | Nemesis Variant Finish
| 49m | |||
23 | Kunua
| 20m | |||
22 | Repertoire
| 30m | |||
23 | ★★★ Jenny Craig Moonarie Summer Camp, Activity One; The Endless Pitch
The true FA reckons its a laugh that the FA details merely reflect who wrote the guidebook. FA: "Stuart Williams & Jared McCulloch", 1992 | 45m, 1 | |||
22 | Phoenix
| 110m | |||
23 | ★★★ Goblin Mischief
The quintessential moonarie classic and an absolute must do! Incredible, sustained and engaging climbing on perfect stone. Start through roof then traverse left past a fixed pin, take a deep breath and begin questing up the proud arete for what feels like an eternity. Double ropes essential. | 50m, 1 | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Callitris Corner | |||||
23 M0 | Final Call
| 27m | |||
22 | Small-time Politics
| 20m | |||
22 | Be Stiff
| 30m | |||
22 | ★ Back Burner
| 18m | |||
23 | ★★★ Be There or Be Square
| 50m | |||
23 | ★★★ Grope Session
You could make this route more sustained by stepping left at the big horizontal to finish up Metal Storm. | 40m | |||
22 | ★ metal storm
If you're not up to doing the crux first pitch of Grope Session, you could use Metal Storm as a grade 17 approach to the good looking grade 19 second pitch of Grope Session. FA: rob baker | ||||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Great Wall Area | |||||
22 | Rats Tooth Start
| 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Eat or Die
FA: Rob Baker & James Falconer | 45m | |||
23 | Upstairs Downstairs
| ||||
23 | ★★★ Against the Wind
| 45m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Infirmity
| 45m | |||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land
Bring a double set of RP's | 45m | |||
22 | Icy Calm
| 34m | |||
23 | Limited Action
| 50m | |||
22 | Only Child
| 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Devil's Advocate
FA: James Falconer, Rob Baker & Benny Carrick, 2004 | 50m | |||
23 | Bowl Me Over
| 20m | |||
23 | Arapiles Crack
| 50m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Northern Group | |||||
23 | Throw a Six
| 50m | |||
23 | Into the Black
| 60m | |||
22 | Pump it or Lump it
| 25m | |||
23 | Let's Play it Safe
| 25m | |||
23 | Stomach Pump
| 25m | |||
22 | Ik
| 40m | |||
22 | ★★ Left Idle
Square cut arête. Two alternate starts, traversing in from the left or just right of the arête. Up past four spaced bolts and a modicum of gear. Single bolt lower-off or continue easily to top. | 25m, 4 | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Crag X | |||||
23 | Pom's Folly
| 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Flake of Fear
FA: Steve Pollard | 20m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Lower Tiers Frannys Point | |||||
23 | Refugee
| 35m | |||
23 | Forty Bastards
| 20m | |||
22 | Big Kahuna Burger
| 20m | |||
22 | Vivaldi
| 25m | |||
22 | Thor Ring
| 20m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Lower Tiers Goat Crag | |||||
22 | LSD
| 20m | |||
23 | ★ Capriole
| 15m | |||
23 | Go at It
| 12m | |||
22 | Caught Kidnapping
| 20m | |||
23 | Finger Lickin' Goat
| 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Bone of Space
| 20m | |||
23 | Goatenberg
| 12m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Lower Tiers Heller | |||||
22 | Catch 22
| 10m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Lower Tiers Wave Wall | |||||
23 | ★ White Pointer
| 25m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Lower Tiers Woodwind Wall | |||||
23 | Pining Away
| 18m | |||
23 | Scoresby Finds an Odd Thong
| 20m | |||
22 | Triumph of Youth
| 15m | |||
22 | The Clarinets are Coming
| 15m | |||
23 | Instrumentation
| 15m | |||
22 | Phallic Cymbal
| 15m | |||
22 | Penis Envy
| 20m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff Moonlight Buttress | |||||
22 | ★★★ Bad Moon Rising
Direct line 2m L of Red Dwarf, just R of center of red wall. Finish L of block. FA: Tim Macartney-Snape & Michael Hillan | 16m | |||
23 | ★★ Red Dwarf
Direct line on red wall 3m L of EOTH. Finish to the L of the summit block. FA: Michael Hillan & Tim Macartney-Snape, 2008 | 18m | |||
22 | ★ Getting Sirius
Up the crack L of the arête for 3m, then around the arête and climb the face near the thin crack. Hard to place wires and cams. Double ropes. FA: Colin Reece & Nick Wigg | 17m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side South East Upper Tier Stomtrooper Sector | |||||
22 | ★★ Cold War Arms Race
Follows the obvious left trending crack on the face 10m right of Calmer Suture. Rise up and assume a difficult stance. Once gained, turn hard left and persist despite increasing difficulty. When you’re as left as possible, drive head-on into the inevitable struggle. Enjoy a period of relative calm before the final difficulty creates some internal battles. | 25m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side South East Upper Tier Jabba Sector | |||||
23 | ★★ Jabba
Start at Jabba’s feet and ooze through the rolls, reach out to the white fingers on the right of the roof then follow the arête and cracks above. FFA: Tim Smith & Adam Clay, 2013 | 20m | |||
22 | ★★★ The Sith
If you do one route here make it this one! Immortal. Through the middle of the overhanging face with a bit of everything. Sting in the tail at the final seam. FFA: Jack Mattinson & Tim Smith, 2013 | 18m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side South East Upper Tier PatO Sector | |||||
22 | ★★★ Exploding Galaxies
Stellar climbing with an audacious move up the arete to the hanging corner above. Start as per Talon in the chimney then break left to the obvious white jug. Place your gear then head out to the arete. Hidden key placement left of the arete (#3 stopper) in small crack. Immortal. FFA: Tim Smith, Garth Wimbush & Adam Clay, May 2017 | 20m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side South East Upper Tier The Corners | |||||
23 | ★★ Heart of Stone
Up the hand crack, over the heart shaped block, take a breath on the ledge, then launch up the thin seam to the top. FA: Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson, 2013 | 18m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff The Dark Side Backstage Area Yin Yang Wall | |||||
23 | Yin Yang
Up the middle of the wall. The difficulties come early on. The first pitch was ended on the large ledge halfway up the wall on the first ascent. FA: Tim Smith & Adam Clay, 2016 | 50m, 2 | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff Moralana Wall | |||||
22 | Pale Rider
| 20m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Buckaringa Central Gully | |||||
22 | A Definite Possibility DF
| ||||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Buckaringa Piton Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ Nun's in Black Leather
| 27m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges The Knobs Golden Knob | |||||
V3 | I'll Scratch Your Back
Sit start on the undercling at right side of boulder, head up through a series of slopers and directly through the tree FA: Ben Dickson, 5 Jun 2020 | ||||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak Half Way Boulders Turtle Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ The Pink Power Ranger
Sit Start as for Theo's Warm up but head directly up and then right via crimps to a juggy top out. | 3m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak The Saddle Drab Queen Boulder | |||||
V3 | Nameless Line
Sit start on the slots, traverse up and left via more good rails to mantle out. | 3m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak The Peak Lady Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Earl Grey
Sit Start matched in port hole feature. Bust up and left to sloper on large horizontal break spanning the length of the boulder. Follow it left until you meet 2 fat ladies and finish for that. FA: Laurence Judd, Apr 2021 | 7m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak Hueco Wall | |||||
23 | Your Mother's Milk is the Devil's Drink
Move up corner at left end of wall (marked by a bright yellow streak) past a bolt. Continue with caution out right along the first horizontal break where good friends offer protection. FFA: Robert Oliver & Matt Adams, 1994 | 12m, 1 | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak Contrasts Wall | |||||
23 | Little Devil
5m left of Contrasts. Follow corner to roof, traverse right (2 bolts). FFA: Robert Oliver & Matt Adams, 1994 | 15m, 2 | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak Wall of Evils | |||||
22 | ★ Evil Angels
The left hand line on the wall with a hard start that took some bouldering. Somehow gain the horizontal then up to a poor rest at the base of the vertical crack. Fire up this to step left to an easier finale. FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ A Serenade to a Cuckoo
Right of the Matt Adams project and left of the top access flake is an overhanging and mildly flaring crack. FFA: Matt Adams, Mark Witham & Stuart Williams, 1990 | 10m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak Leaning Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ Chilli Tickle
The large crack right of F.O.T.B. Trad gear with chains to finish. FFA: Unknown | 20m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak The Point | |||||
23 | ★★ The Barren of Bottom and his Bulbous Butt Bung
Crank through a tough start then head left at the left-curving slopey arête up the white/orange wall for a cruxey finish. Top out to chains. Robert Brooks CLOSED PROJECT 2016. FFA: CLOSED PROJECT | 15m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★★ Fajita
Left of Sooky is a left to right leaning diagonal, follow this to the roof, traverse left a few meters under the roof to better holds, then over the bulge to a hands free rest. Continue up the short wall past a bolt to the chains to finish. FFA: Caleb Steer & Robert Brooks, Oct 2016 | 20m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Missing Pet Piñatas
The face and arête right of I.G.T.B.F. FA: Mark Witham, Shaw Callan & Greg Burke, 2003 | 20m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak El Dorado Faces | |||||
22 | Plodged Ring
If you get too close it bites. Mike strained hard on this climb that the following day he woke up with hemorrhoids! 5 metres right of the corner is an overhanging rightward leaning crack. FFA: Mike Broadbent & Tony Barker, 1991 | 20m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak The Devil's Playground | |||||
23 | Stiletto
Another tester, though this one has less holds and less angle. Pad up the centre of the little black wall across the gully left of Slippery Shlong. Soloed on FFA. FFA: Paul Francis, 1988 | 9m | |||
23 | Slippery Shlong
The steep problem arête at the left end of this wall. Soloed on FFA. FFA: Stuart Williams, 1988 | 7m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak Pride Rock | |||||
V3 | ★ Wet Beanie Kids
From the main entrance of the cave turn right and down one step. Start matched on the very low good jug. Follow the overhang up to pockets and top out on good holds up and right through the small opening. Stay clear of the low block. | ||||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak The Mecca | |||||
V3 | ★★ The Legend Of Roy
Under the overhanging 45° arête, sit start with RH large pinch and LH small crimp (on face). Slap up to a sloper and climb the arête to top out on good holds. FFA: Robert Brooks, Oct 2015 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Pichi Richi Caber Toss
Stand start with two hands on the big sloper and work directly upwards. FA: Andy McKilliam, 28 Aug 2016 | 3m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak Barefoot Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★ Dorky Corkies
Sit start under shelf with 2 large edges, climb the black and orange slopey rails to the top. FFA: Robert Brooks, Oct 2015 | 6m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak Big End Rock | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Wet Eyed Charisma
Climb Wet Eye Spry to the top of its runnel, then traverse right into Col Charisma and top out. FFA: Robert Brooks, Sep 2016 | 6m | |||
V3 | ★★ Col Charisma
An old Colin Reece top rope conquest. Stand start in the runnel right of W.E.S., gain a slopey rail, then step right around the slight bulge to top out. FFA: Robert Brooks & Ryszard Barone, Aug 2015 | 6m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Gibraltar Rock | |||||
22 | ★ Goodbye Cruel World
A voyage up (most) of the steep S face passing two bolts (not placed by me!) FA: Paul Badenoch, 2002 | 28m | |||
South Australia Eyre Peninsula Closed Red Rock | |||||
23 | ★ Caught in Slips
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986 | 25m | |||
23 | Flibbertigibbet
The strenuous diagonal crack 3m from the L end of the wall. (This sounds like a free ascent of the previous route, possibly before the bolts.) FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986 | 25m | |||
22 | Stratagem
Much tried in '76. Several metres L of G a diagonal line leads to a roof-capped slab. Go to it. FA: Colin Reece & Neil Smith, 1983 | 16m | |||
22 | ★★ Strategem
Much tried in '76. Several metres left of G a diagonal line leads to a roof-capped slab.Go to it. This was assumed to be a different climb when first attempted by Wimbush & Garrett, with the description below given: Airtime likely on this one. Start at the scoops marked with GA at the bottom and follow the overhanging flake and corner up to the roof and then traverse right to top out. Take some micro cams to protect the traverse. FA: Colin Reece & Neil Smith, 1983 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★★ Charlie Goes Surfing
Begin L of the graffiti and a few metres R of M. Dash up the overhanging wall R of the shallow rib following bolts. Over the nose to an easier finish. FA: Dave Brayshaw, 1984 | 15m |