Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | |||||
22 | ★ Cricket Bats in a Box
Poor pro. The right side of the cave to a sickle flake, then left. Start: Below the R side of Melville's Cave. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988 | 25m | |||
22 | ★ Red Right Hand
Bring some painkillers. Starts in the second cave (Nick Cave) through the obvious weakness in the roof with one bolt. | 10m, 1 | |||
22 | ★★ 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro
Fun roof climbing, past a slightly spooky block. Starts in Nick Cave, on the right hand side past two bolts and finishes up headwall at a sling anchor. | 14m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | |||||
23 | ★★ Sagittarian
Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past a bolt, onto easier ground. FA: Peter Millington & Adrian Jones, 1969 FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 12m, 1 | |||
22 | ★ New Wave Wanks
Start up 'Slip Knot', then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs. FA: Phil Bigg & Chris Shepherd, 1983 | 15m | |||
23 | ★★ Little Thor Direct Finish
After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket. FA: Toshihiko Hijakata, 1988 | 5m, 1 | |||
22 | ★ A New Toy
Bouldery crux. Up crack 2m left of 'Problematic' to bulge and bolt. Onwards. FA: Stuart Hickson & Allan Wilkie, 1982 | 15m, 1 | |||
22 | ★ Problematic
The short bulging crack on the right-hand side of the north-west-facing sheer orange wall. FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ Traverse
| 10m | |||
V3 | ★★ V3 pocket problem
| 5m | |||
23 | ★★★ Brain Death
Follow the wide crack the whole way up. FA: Henry Barber | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Brain Death - Piker's Variant
| ||||
V3 | ★★ L
| 6m | |||
V3 | ★★ D
| 6m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall | |||||
22 | Boogie Boogie
A miniscule direct middle to Oogie Boogie. Straight under the DRB anchor. FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 2 Nov 2015 | 10m | |||
22 | ★ Asteroids
Starts at the same corner as for Popeye, then steps up and right to a higher V-corner. Pass the bulge using the big pockets, then higher to where the angle eases. From here you can either traverse far left (to 'The Wizard of Id' abseil station), or veer right up the dirty weakness (to 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' abseil station). FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1981 | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Vogon Destructor Fleet
Start right of Asteroids, head up to small V in overhang below bolts. Follow bolts through bulges, then 2 bolts trending right through head wall to shared anchor with 'Hyperspace Bypass'. FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 17 Oct 2015 | 20m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Hyperspace Bypass
Up short corner 2m right of 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' to bolts, then up right line of bolts in head wall, finishing left to shared anchor with VDF. FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 2015 | 20m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Hyperspace
Shallow corner then R through bulges. Start at bushes R of 'Asteroids'. FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1981 | 20m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble | |||||
22 | ★ Pinpricks Of Blood
Long moves between good holds. Start direct. Size 3 Camalot handy. Finish right onto the arete. FA: Douglas Hockly & Paul Deacon, 2009 | 10m | |||
23 | ★ Wingspan
Start on arête up and left past bolt up to break 3cam then straight up to top of head wall small wires, then finishing out right on arête and up to high anchor | 10m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | |||||
22 | ★ Blasphemy
Start at the arete just L of 'Christian Crack'. Up the corner on the arete, trend right past FH, before landing on the ledge. From here you work your way back right, and the theory is that you finish up the arete, but inevitably the holds lead you further right, such that it feels contrived to avoid finishing up 'Christian Crack'. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979 | 15m, 1 | |||
22 X | ★ No Wall At All
A low bolt then try not to die above that. Start: Start between 'Spasticus' & 'Nero'. FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1981 | 12m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin | |||||
23 | ★ spiderman savior
| 7m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully | |||||
23 | Valley of the Deformed Pork Salesman
Caveat emptor! Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'. FA: Mike Law & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 20m, 1 | |||
22 | ★★ Light Fingered
Struggle up the good line. Start: Start below the obvious grey wall just before the gully narrows below crack that widens. FA: Mike Law, 1977 | 25m | |||
23 R | Wub Wub Direct
Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete. Start: Start 2m R of LF. FA: Mike Law & Ian ANger, 1983 | 30m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks | |||||
22 | Fingersmith
Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete. Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack. FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989 | 16m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | |||||
22 R | Mongolian Rabbit Shit
Unprotected black streak, then corner. Start: Start ~20m R of ALG. FA: Jon Muir & Russell Chudleigh, 1984 | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | |||||
23 | Ratatat
Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor. FA: Glenn Tempest, 9 Nov 2016 | 15m, 1 | |||
23 R | Luxury Item
Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out. Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork. FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Inquisitive Creatures
Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR. FA: Goshen Watts, 25 Jan 2020 | 23m | |||
22 | ★★ Glory Rodent
The awesomely steep line is made easier by a few faceholds. Start: The first steep line you get to on the L wall of KRGRF. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1976 | 20m | |||
23 R | ★ Kookenhagen
The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. Carrot has been replaced by a bolt Start: Start R of KR. FA: Rod Young & Mike Meyers, 1982 | 20m, 1 | |||
23 | Of Mice And Men
Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left). FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Oct 2016 | 15m, 1 | |||
22 | Maternity Wear
Sustained face and crack with good wires. Start: Start 3m R of K. FA: Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey, 1982 | 15m | |||
22 | Furry Bathtubs
A "V", then a sickle. Dodgy rock and gear. Not worth a star. Start: Start R of MW. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mike Law, 1982 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Purple Denotes Bruising
Fingery moves. The original crap bolts were replaced in 2003. Start: Start R of FB, beneath the huge chockstone above the gully. FA: Mike Law & Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 10m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | |||||
23 R | ★ Even More Moves
A heady lead. From the ground, the upper half of this route may look like a straightforward pleasant crimp ladder, with its rows of appealing parallel horizontal edges; it's best not to expect the route to deliver on that expectation. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985 | 12m | |||
22 | ★★ Free Admission
Straight up well protected wall. Start 1m R of Even More Moves. FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981 | 12m | |||
22 | ★★ Easy Does It
After some powerful moves off an undercling, a fixed hanger is soon within reach. Siddle up and rightwards (to another fixed hanger), then finish up the seam. FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981 | 12m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Spasticus Autisticus
It is possible to climb into Retardation but you can suspend the disbelief and stay on the wall. The climbing sends you rightwards after that anyway. Mistakenly named Austisticus Spasticus in Simey and Glen's guide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6isXNVdguI8 FA: Mark Wood, 2005 | 17m, 3 | |||
23 | The Other Route
Stick clip U-bolt. Take a running jump off the end of the ledge and leap for the jug. Simultaneously, get your belayer to take in about 5 metres of slack however seems apt. Then climb the crack. Start: Start off the R end of the ledge. FA: Mike Law & Malcolm Matheson, 1983 | 25m | |||
23 | ★★ Dead Metaphor
Link up of Skydiver to Sustained Metaphor. Start up Skydiver until the horizontal weakness at about 8m. Go L along this to the groove on Sustained Metaphor, and up this to the top. Great sustained climbing. FA: Unknown | 25m | |||
23 | ★★ Beside Myself
Start: Start 1.5m R of S.
FA: Mike Law & Greg Garnham, 1982 | 30m, 2, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Myself
Up BM to it's first bolt. Head right to another bolt, some hard moves and finally BM's anchor. FA: Gareth Llewellin & Jessie Rushbrooke, 4 Jan 2015 | 10m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | |||||
23 | English Ethics LHF
As for EE but span L to the jug on the prow and up the prow to finish. Start: Start as for CC. FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1989 | 15m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress | |||||
22 | ★ Pwocol Hawum
Take the same starting diagonal crack as 'Wascal', but continue another two meters before going up. Start: Start as for 'Wascal'. FA: Mike Law | 10m | |||
22 | ★ Cry Hawum
An enjoyable combo with just a couple of metres of new climbing. Has been top-roped before. Up 'Cry Baby' to above its first bolt. Thin moves across L (good wires) to surmount the crux bulge on 'Pwocol Hawum'. FA: Glenn Tempest, 18 Apr 2015 | 12m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | |||||
23 | Ferrari in a Chevrolet World
Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'. Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'. FA: Roland Foster & Dave Vass, 1989 | 12m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area | |||||
23 | ★ Thanksgiving Sunday
The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer. Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'. FA: Chris Peisker, 1977 | 12m | |||
22 | DC 10
The obvious bottomless crack. Originally put up by 'building a scaffolding' of rocks to stand on and reach the first jug. Went unrepeated until 2001 when Chris Jones onsighted it without the aided start and called it 'It's A Bird It's a Plane'. Now given 27 in the latest guide, however has been climbed by a simple dyno off the deck, reducing the grade to probably around 23. Start: Start left of 'Kryptonite Krack'. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (22M1 with batman start), 1981 FFA: Chris Jones., 2001 | 10m | |||
23 | ★★ Kryptonite Krack
Prance up the inverted trench, exit L. Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge. FA: Greg Child, 1978 | 14m | |||
23 | ★ Auntie Florrie
Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish. Start: Start R of S. FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980 | 15m | |||
23 | Clark Kent
Finish direct. Start: Start as for AF. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1979 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | |||||
22 | ★ Strombeante
Roof above 'Togrul Khan' past two BR. Inadvertently retrobolted after the FA. It's a bit necky getting to the first bolt. The direct start from the bottom of the wall has been done (Smith Hoskins, 4/5/96), as has the sit start (!!) (Hoskins, 14/5/96). Start: Start above 'Togrul Khan'. FA: Geoff Weigand & Peter Croft (both solo), 1986 | 10m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Fixed Smile
Short variant to 'Togrul Khan'. Climb right arete, either from left or right past fixed sling (which was originally fencing wire!). Start: Start just R of TK. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 12m | |||
23 | ★ Predator
Bouldery. Start: Start off boulder underneath roof. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 15m | |||
22 R | Perry White
The badly protected seam right of 'Daily Planet'. Start: Start 2m R of 'Daily Planet'. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 20m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | |||||
22 | Contraction
Start up the ramp of BS, then the flake. Tricky up small corner on the L. Start as for B. FA: Kim Carrigan & Robin Miller, 1982 | 20m | |||
23 R | Beasley St
Start just R of C. Boldly up face to bolt. FA: Guy Cotter & Steve Howden, 1981 | 20m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area | |||||
22 | ★ Cassandra Direct
Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'. Start: Start up 'Cassandra'. FA: C Peisker, 1978 | 23m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Pain Street
While this is very nearly a sport route, it's important to place gear past the last bolt to avoid a nasty swing into the slab if you fall off the crux. Start: Start as for 'Cassandra Direct'. | 15m, 7 | |||
22 | Warts and All
Through bulge, BR, tend a bit L but don't join 'Cassandra' until the diagonal ramp. Start: Start 3m R of C. FA: Louise Shepherd & Heinz Zak, 1985 | 18m, 1 | |||
23 X | Unguarded Moments
Up the middle of the face - no pro. Stay L of the arete (which is taken by the upper part of It'll Never Fly). It is 19 but probably no easier (!!) to take a flying leap across the chasm from Cassandra's 1st belay to the halfway break! Start: Start on the R wall of the gully, opposite PW. FA: Chris Shepherd & Malcolm Matheson, 1982 | 40m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||
23 | ★★★ Orestes
You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version. Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.
FA: Jim Newlands & John Bennett, 1966 FFA: Kim Carrigan (1st pitchand LHV 13/3/84), Glenn Tempest (2nd pitch & 8/76), 1979 | 40m, 2 | |||
22 R | ★★ Plimsoll Line
Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck... Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'. FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter & John Moore, 1968 FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area | |||||
23 | Curved Air
As for Muldoon for 10m to the cave, then steeply out to slot, and up L into crack. Best descent is to use the Fail Safe DRB, otherwise continue up Muldoon to its rap anchors. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Dave Moss, 1979 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||
23 | Crows in the Snow
Start on the L side of Collision Course Wall, at the top of the V-slot the trail takes, beneath a short L curving flake. Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Finish up any other route to get off. Poor rock and gear. FA: Paul Tattersall & Chris Shepherd, 1982 FA: (described finish added by Kim Carrigan & Malcolm Matheson), 1982 | 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Collision Course
Start 5m L of Agamemnon. L-facing orange flakes 1m L of shrub, to striking large holes under roof. Move 1m left to breach roof at obvious under clings, then up face past old peg on the right, drift left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors (30m). FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Little, 1979 | 30m | |||
23 | Guessing Game
Reachy. An old route that starts as for FF to the 2nd FH then keeps traversing across to CC. Superseded by FF. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (variant by Mike Law), 1981 | 40m, 3 | |||
22 | Love that comfort
The start of Love That Pain, escaping up Necrophiliac. The rock is a bit dodgy at the start and the gear is fiddly but the climbing is OK. FA: Douglas Hockly, 2014 | 24m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle | |||||
23 R | Blood and Iron
Reachy. Start: Start 4m L of SD, below little gumtree poking out of cliff. FA: Tim Day, Nick Neagle & Craig Roberts, 1992 | 30m, 1 | |||
23 | Pick Pocket
Up face, over pocketed roof, then up R to hole. Start: Start under the arch. FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Tattersall, 1982 | 30m | |||
23 | Throw Me No Beers
Up the patch of orange rock, 2 BRs. Start: Start on the tiny outcrop which is downhill from 'Steel Delinquency' Pinnacle, and which faces the same way. | 12m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Trench Rawfare
Trench Rawfare - It'll leave you raw! Offwidth/Roof trench on the right hand side of Steel Delinquency Pinnacle. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Finger Prince. Go up cave roof and out. Rappel Anchors installed at top of climb. Offwidth Size Dependent!! FFA: Chris Ferre, 12 Jan 2018 FA: Chris Ferre, 12 Jan 2018 | 12m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks | |||||
22 | Ghosts
Good mini-route. Start: Start on the L arete of the 3rd blocky pinnacle. FA: Nick Neagle, Tim Day & Craig Roberts, 1992 | 12m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle | |||||
23 | Strings Attached
The speckled face which may have a fixed wire. Start up around L of FP. FA: Chris Shepherd & Warwick Baird, 1982 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Finger Prince
Flake, L past PR into small techie corner on arete. Finish L up flake or straight up. The direct start is 23 with a BR, and uses the original footholds as handholds. Start at the L arete of the FP pinnacle, 2m L of TT. FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan (Direct Start by Nick White & Andy Pollitt), 1990 | 15m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle | |||||
23 | ★★ Iron Void
Start off the boulder and L and up the great face which swallows heaps of small wires - if you have the stamina to find the placements! You can also approach the same line by doing the reachy start of IVV. FA: Tony Dignan & Geoff Little, 1979 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Guideline
The fine line L of the slim tree. Start on small orange face which is below and faces the same direction as the Flashing Blade. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979 | 8m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle | |||||
23 | ★ A Plaything For the Missus
Fingery up to BR, R across SO, and up past 2nd BR. Start up L of SO. FA: Ross Meffin & Kate Thomas, 1992 | 15m, 2 | |||
22 | Flabby Tourists
Small flake, face, small overlap then tend R. This route looks almost entirely unprotected. Start at the yellow wall which is above and R of Frenzy. FA: Jim Thomas & Mark Moorhead, 1982 | 8m | |||
22 | Tanglefoot
Start just R of F. The low red wall capped by a roof is taken via bouldery face moves then a crack. Finish up groove. FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor (aid), 1968 FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1976 | 36m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | |||||
22 | ★ Private Detective
One concerned father hired a private detective when his daughter started seeing Chris! Not that well protected. Start R around the arête from C, 3m L of Stentor's 3rd pitch. FA: Glenn Tempest, Lincoln Shepherd & Chris Shepherd, 1981 | 12m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | |||||
22 R | ★ Aardvark Original Start
The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish. FA: Peter Lindorff & Chris George, 1974 FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1975 | 18m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | |||||
23 | Quiet Time
A good pump in the Organ Pipes? Start left of Diapason, 2m right of Ejaculation, beneath obvious overlap. FA: Hoskins, Wilkins & Pritchard, 1995 | 20m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | |||||
22 | Wyrd Left Hand Variant
Undercling past first roof and continue up crack for 5m. FA: Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey & Mark Moorhead, 1982 | 35m | |||
23 | ★ Sissy Bars and Super Freaks
Start just right of Wraith. Great moves on thin face, cruxy past second bolt. Finish straight up or traverse L to finish up The Wraith or Tannin. FA: Ant Prehn & Jon Muir, 1986 | 30m | |||
22 R | Friendless
Good climbing with hard start and finish but gets few ascents and is sinking beneath the moss. The finish is quite scary. Start 2 metres right of Tremulo at seam. FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran.., 2000 | 40m | |||
22 | A Concerted Effort
Beautiful rock but a bit contrived. Start as for Discord.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, Chris Baxter (alt) & Kim Carrigan., 1982 | 45m, 2 | |||
23 | A Concerted Effort Direct
| ||||
22 | Whiteman's Country
Hardly a recommendation. FA: Freed by Malcolm Matheson.., 1981 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ Over the Nose of the Bunny
Sit start. | 2m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area | |||||
22 | ★ Traversalotomy
The slabby wall opposite Star Search and the main wall. Step on and up, to travers the bulge left to the last small deep wire, then up through crux to continue up slightly right to top. takes thin gear, small to medium wires, and slings. FA: muki woods, Jae Zhong, Kane Hendy & Constantine Dritsas FA: muki woods, 15 Apr 2020 | 15m | |||
23 | Little Aesthetics
Lovely line that has been inadvertantly retroed. The obvious line on the left wall. Up obvious crack stepping right, up, then right again. FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1995 | 10m, 1 | |||
22 | Mark You've Changed
"A good little route with a flake not unlike that on Moby Dick". Follow flake on righthand gully wall until it peters out. Traverse 2m L, then up face, tending R to easy arete. FA: Chris Shepherd, Allan Wilkie & Malcolm Matheson, 1982 | 18m | |||
23 | ★ Golden Triangle
May start as for Mark You've Changed and then provide a direct finish to that climb. Or MYC may be just left of this. Needs another look. Start at the lefthand of the flakes leading to the inverted V. Up the obvious right facing flake then right ward on thin holds to a balance crux passing a bolt, then up to the anchor. FA: Lachlan Hick & Muki Woods FA: Lachlan Hick & muki woods, 2007 | 20m, 23, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | |||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy
Great sustained moves up intermittent pods in the crack and directly through the small roof. Beware a slight runout at about 6m which doesn't leave much room for error. Start: Start just R of the pillar/pedestal. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Keith Lockwood, 1974 FFA: Henry Barber, 1975 | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Quisling Direct Start
Harder than it looks! Small wires and smaller holds. The tough thin crack just right of Squeakeasy leads into Quisling. FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb & Peter Mills, 1981 | 22m |