Routes in Australia for selected grade

Climb the centre of the highball slab up to the undercling pocket and hidden jugs at the top.

Start on the incut holds on the rail.

The Slab between 'Child of Love' and 'Sexy as a Turd'.

Sit start on the low break 2m right of "Sexy Direct". Slap up to the sloper and out to a jug. Traverse up and left on good holds to finish up "Sexy as a Turd".

A stunning highball arete that feels serious for the grade. Stand start at the base of the arete and follow the line. If you get halfway up and decide you're not having fun it's easy enough to step off onto the adjacent rising boulder.

Sit start to the left of D'artagnan. Left hand on high left crimp and right hand on low right crimp (starting foot hold of the V2). Make a big right-hand move into the jug slot and traverse rightward along the lip to finish up D'artagnan.

This line can also be exited directly at about V1-V2.

Some link-ups are hardly worth recording, but this one is notable because it avoids the cruxy moves of each route, leaving amazing sustained climbing around grade 22 with bomber pro the whole way. In fact, you'd be hard pressed to find a better 23 in the Grampians.

Follow Dance of Life to the horizontal break 10m below the top, step L 3m, and finish up the lovely well protected blunt arete of Clean Sweep. Needs double ropes to do it in a single (ultraclassic) pitch. Has also been done by going further L along the break to Dinosaurs Don't Dyno.

A heady megaclassic ... but also a brilliant consumer-friendly 22 if you lower off the bolts at the top of the flake (25m). Start as for The Seventh Pillar. Follow R-tending line of weakness for 18m to the major roof-capped horizontal break. Swing L into the rounded flake crack and up it. Bolts at the top protect the crux, which is followed by 8m rightwards runout to the horizontal (gear). Traverse 10m further right along this to rap rings (22m rap, can just barely lower off with a 60m rope). Extend all gear before the bolts, otherwise the flake is a real rope eater and rope drag will be hideous.

Climb The Seventh Pillar LHV to the top of the flake, clip the bolts, gaze rightwards at the rising, unprotected traverse, and say 'take'. Lower off with mixed feelings of guilt and relief.

Note that if you aren't cleaning your gear off this route by the sun comes around (~2pm), you will likely get gear stuck (no matter how experienced you are at placing/removing gear). Oftentimes no amount of hammering or cursing will remove the gear... only for it to lift out the following morning without the need for any coercion whatsoever. So if you get gear stuck, either shrug and consider that it was worth it to get on this route, or get back up it early the following day.

The old 15mm long (!!) bolt was replaced 2011.

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Spurt Wall' bouldering traverse, at the obvious juggy chalked L leading flake.

Warmup route of the crag. Fun scoopy moves and a nice pump. Three RB's.

Easy tick - more like a bolted boulder problem.

Hard start then reachy moves on pockets. The bolts are all in the wrong places. 3 FHs.

Sandy rubbish at the far right end of the crag. It has a few ok moves but the aesthetic value is very low.

Left most problem. Sit start and move up to the good edge in the break, then gaston and undercling your way out the lip to an interesting mantle. Classic.

An independant and direct line right of 'Slot Machine'.

Awkward sit start off the raised platform from two good large pockets, then up directly via more pockets (clue - gaston) to lip jug.

Sit start on the left, follow wavy cracks up on lovely slopey holds.

They shall not perch.

Start: Start 5m R of 'The Rubicon'.

This is a sport route after you do the first 5m of Zeus on trad. Start as for Artemis, but from the 1st bolt go 5m further L to narrow ledge. Great sustained moves up orange flakes and L over roof, onto the long pumpy headwall, finishing at a lower-off. NOTE: a 60m rope is probably NOT enough to lower off (a 70m should reach, but check first!).

Furthest most problem right of Nelly. Potential for more problems exist in the same area.

Broken looking holds right of 'Click'. Very low sit-start.

Choss!

Sit-start on the low flake and small arete hold - then up via a 'triangle' pinch hold to the big break. Originally given V4.

Steep start up wall with big moves leads to thin face. 4 ringbolts and double RB anchor.

Sustained techy thin climbing up orange wall on perfect rock. Five RB's. Rap off ring and chain.

Sit-start on large flat jug under the roof (same start as for Strammamax) - then head left around onto the face - and up crack weakness.

Good looking sit-start problem near the RH arete leading up to an obvious jug.

Same start as Cock Toe, traverse left and ride the edge of the toe to top out.

Why? Balancy face 3m R of 'Rosy the Riveter' to steep, R-leading horizontal crack. Perhaps you traverse R here. Who knows? The description doesn't say.

Hard crux. Bridge up using a convenient tree about 12m right of Talk Of Mad Women and onto the wall. Hand traverse right to avoid all of the big loose blocks sitting on the ledge and up to FH. Hard crux past FH then more easily straight up juggy wall past another FH to belay at double FHs above 'Spice Islands'. Walk off right to rap anchors above 'Lord Jim' to descend.

Keeps your interest.Hard start and exciting, pumpy moves on the bulge. Start in centre of wall, about 10m right of 'Roaring Forties'. Pull off boulder onto wall, FH, and crank hard to reach break. Left a fraction at 2nd FH then back right and up to mailbox slot (vital large wire). Motor up and left on the headwall, hoping that the hidden 3rd FH will be staring you in the face when you peer over the top of it. Pull up and continue with a big runout to double bolt anchors. Walk right to chains above 'Lord Jim' to descend.

Glorious juggy rock on the headwall after a couple of moves that are much easier if you're tall. Screwgate for 1st FH, #1½ cam between 3rd and 4th bolt. 5 FHs. Start 11m right of Spice islands below left side of orange streaks. Hard bouldery start past bolt, teeter past second bolt then motor up wall. It would be wise not to touch the fragile flake up right of 5th bolt... but there isn't much else to use, so take care.

Finish direct up the thin face above the juggy crack.

Start: Start as for 'Tootsie'.

As for 21CSM for 4m then move L to the next line.

Start: Start as for 21CSM.

Direct up the thin face to seam.

Start: Start as for W.

From boulder into crack and through roof.

Start: Start 2m L of F&C.

It's had 2 stars for 20 years and received absolutely no attention...so off they come.

Start: Start 13m L of 3D.

The first ascent was complicated by a large detached flake that was encountered at the end of the crux. Now it's just good fun.

Despite being a bit of a squeeze job, it's an excellent (toprope for most) problem. Even thinner gear than Soweto. Cams, thin wires and long slings keep it sane but scary.

Start: Start just L of 'Soweto'.

Climb the arete to the horizontal break. Move L and climb the crack in the centre of the face.

Start: Start on the block at the R end of the 'Wall of Fools'.

Start: Start just R of Razors Edge.The face past 2 bolts and for a better finish take the L side of the head wall. The 2 rusty 8mm carrots have been replaced with 2 x stainless expansion bolts and slightly R of their the carrots positions (more in tune with the line of holds and out of reach of Razors Edge).

Up for 1.5m, step R, then up L to follow seam then onwards.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Bowler' by the pine tree.

Diagonally R to pockets then up.

Start: Start 1.5m R of RA.

Takes the line up the proudest section of the orange wall. Climb pumpy overhang to the roof, R a few moves, then pull up and traverse spectacularly back L along the lip of the roof, and up.

Standing start. Up wall on side pulls and layaways to a pinch at 5m, then 'hero' jugs to the top. Fun! Spooky.

Start as for Too Much Candy when it heads back right head out left to a good hold in the streak then up

Sit start then up left via rail to pocket then up wall above veering slightly back right. Traverse off right or up through spooky gargoyles.

Climb the underbelly and out to the left of the Echidna! Sit-start as for Echidna's Nose with LH low on left arete and RH on good crimp. Stay low and make tension-y moves out left to the juggy flake. From here, make a hard move to the good crimp rail, and then powerful moves into the scoop. Finish up trending left. Eliminates obvious broken ledges and pedestal ledge.

One move wonder down low.

Start: The overhanging blocky crack 10m right of 'Buckshot'. Finish up the left leaning juggy crack to ledge.

It's short but desperate. One of the only true finger-cracks in the area.

Start: The overhanging thin crack 3m right of 'Crazy Da Must Sing' and in the centre of the crag. A large hold snapped off a few years ago, making it one grade harder, and giving the belayer a fair injury, but it could've killed him 30cm to the left.

A contrived and pointless bouldery start leads to a good variant finish to 'Greyhounds In Space'.

Start: Start 3m right of Greyhounds.

Squeezed in.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Airplay', just left of corner.

A pumpy rising traverse that barely gets more than five metres from the ground. Some would call this a highball boulder problem.

Start: Located on wall opposite 'Bolt Action'. Start at left end of wall in alcove at well chalked slopers.

Can be finished either by stepping left to easier ground (20) or gently right to high jug (22).

Start: Start as for 'Pump Action' but continue straight up wall.

Links 'The Flying Emu' into 'Float Like a Butterfly'.

Sustained steep climbing on big incuts for most of the way. One of the driest routes in the Hollow Mtn area, until the last few metres. One grade harder than 'Sting Like a Bee' and one grade easier than 'Amnesty International'. Start: Furthest left route on the main pocketed wall, with RB's. Watch out for the ledge fall potential up high due to the block on the left.

Climb the overhanging sharp crack system, then a great juggy headwall. Stick clip 1st bolt.

superceded by direct. Original wandering line best forgotten

traverse left from 3 bolt on tyrants past 5 U's to anchor.

One of the best grade 22 sport routes in 'Victoria', even though the start is very close to being a retrobolt of CWT. Seeps heavily in the dead of winter, although the key holds can be dryer than they look. Rebolted and extended 2017

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Sting' Like A Bee on small ledge.

During or after rain a waterfall tumbles over the cliff directly below the Crankstart Amphitheatre. If it isn't flowing, start climbing! The newer sport routes on either side have effectively retrobolted a fair portion of this route.

Start: Starts a metre to the right of 'The Tyrants Grasp' but on the ground level.

Just right of waterfall

One move wonder up the middle of the pillar.

Start at the very left end of the main wall, below and immediately left of the hanging right-facing flake-corner (Western Ayatollahs). Climb up a short flake to clip the first fixed hanger then up the short, shallow, overhanging, right-facing corner to a bridging rest at the second hanger. Tend up right then up the knobbly overhanging face past another five fixed hangers to the rap chains on the ledge about 5m below the top of the cliff.

Start: Start at the steep flake on the left side of the wall. Up the flake to traverse right 5m at the obvious horizontal, then the line above to the top.

The original, and still one of the best. Take a normal trad rack.

Starts at the thin seam with a fixed hanger.

Stand start to climb arete. (I presume this was first done long ago)

Highball on jugs.

Start with a dimple on the arête and the horizontal seam on the right face. Follow the slopey holds to the top.

Sit start just right of Buck Deluxe, matched on flat sidepull.

Excellent rising line starting on Gas jugs drifting u and left to high finish.

matched sloper sit start

Sit-start onto light overhang connecting odd holds.

Sit start low on arrowhead flake and undercling edge. Throw up to ledge and then top out up slab.

Start as for The Cleaver and make the burly slap for the ledge. Traverse right on slopers and top out via the razor jug.

Start W/ left hand on good sloper, right hand on arete, move up through sidepull and underclings to mantle past the chockstone.

Sit start low on a crimp and input edge. Climb the central line up the technical slab to top out over its peak. A classic for the grade!

Sit start under the roof at the obvious juggy ledge. Sit start at the obvious juggy ledge. Move up to flakes in the roof and left to mantle over the ledge.

(Make sure the head is protected from the rock behind by a pad or close hand)

Sit start to the right of Exposed.