Routes in Australia for selected grade

“The last laugh should last forever”.

Start: The steep slab about 5m down right from ‘Moral Decline’. Marked and with a bolt anchor at the start.

Up the slab past 4 bolt runners to chains on the ledge.

A superb line up the left arête of the dome, giving sustained hard climbing.

Start: At the base of the dome on the left side. Either Abseil in or do 'Labour Force'.

Up the left aide of the arête past a bolt runner then swing around right and up past three more bolts to top with another bolt at top. Tie off trees on mainland for anchor.

Start on jug under roof, move out and left and up

Great rail and right start hold, glassy starting feet

Start hanging on the nostrils

Technical face climbing on incuts and then intricate arete and wall to get to the top of the boulder. Classic. May be easier/harder but who knows how to grade blunt arête slab cruxes?

Start as for left arete but continue lip traverse

Straight up cracked Face

Start: The arête immediately left of ‘International Womens Year Cracks’.

Extremely technical climbing up a blunt vertical arête.

Up past three fixed hangers to a slight rest and a small cam placement (Alien or TCU). Continue past a fourth fixed hanger to top.

Belay off tree further back.

Same start as C.F.J, at the vertical side-pull (above second dish) reach out right to a good crimper on the face, top out using a high left killer crystal.

Mantle at large hold for left hand into scoop

Line of edges up high face (top-rope problem)

Hard at top but with a good rest in the middle

Obvious. a little scary

Impossible! Mantle on large edge at head height.

Crimps on face up to loose flake on slab

Sit start then up into the flakes and traverse left until the crack turns vertical.

Start on glued hold, move up and balance your way through thinness to mantle

SDS

The start flake has recently broken off, leaving the problem much harder. It still awaits a post-break FA.

Up groove from edges to slopers

Dyno to sloping lip from large edges

Start as for 'L'envers du decors' then up to crimps at break and on to the arete to finish up 'Thumb Power'

In welsh means "sloping lands", and is the name of a local river. funnily enough originates from Gwynedd where i was last working. Basically, poorly protected first moves gets you to a piton, then the crux.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638935338/

Up the arete on the west side

Sit start on same jug as for Crystal Caves but climb straight up via undercling and side pull. Another great problem on featured rock.

Abseil down from tree with sling at top of dome down about 15m towards dead tree. Look for 2 bolt anchor with rings beside tree on small ledge. Abseil again from anchor 20m to slab.

Route takes the orange vertical face on thin crimps to a slight bulge with incipient seam through it. Once through bulge angle eases to anchor.

No bolts are in place yet, just the anchor.

First problem on lower boulder section. Sit start on 2 low sidepulls. Pull to rail then high, sharp crimp on right, before moving powerfully left to good ball and top out.

Starts 2m right of large crack on lower boulders (Mosquito Coil). Desperate hands up arete to top out.

Old project from 2009. Sit start on the arete, up some tough thin moves to a final lunge for the top.

Sit Start as for Power Monkey but move out left near the top to small v groove hold.

The problem avoiding the groove and crimp near the top. Sit start with tough move to pull into under-cling, then slap up right and up for dirty mantle out right.

Wild slap to hard lock off and then mantle out right to avoid groove.

The highball mega problem, trend up left on pockets

Sit start, up using two glorious side pulls and a sharp crimpy top section. Top out to the right of upper boulder.

Same start as VengaBus but with mantle finish on upper boulder.

Start as for Roofed Boulder Traverse finishing via Tw'oofed.

Sit start as for The Altar finishing via Tr'oofed.

Climb Traverse The Apricot moving straight into (no dawdling!) and finishing via Pip & The Apricot's Arete.

Start as for Obiwan' finish as for Kimono.

The cleanest line on this rock, this project has the potential to be an excellent line. Intended as a stand start on opposing side pull crimps and super obvious foot hold. Move left around the buldge to link onto XA for the top out.

Start up the Inside Out ledge, but keep going all the way around the top side of the cave on the honeycomb rock and finish up B3.

Sit start at the base of the cave. Out along the lip using the fallen boulder for feet to get started. Keep going around the corner then up and over the blunt nose. The bouldering version of Ghetto Superstar.

The obvious line with the big reach up from the sloper and sidepull. Possibly reachy, definitely a bit unique.

Same sit start as BNPOC but head straight up. Video: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cz0YRlaPpY4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Low start matched on jug under boulder, up trending right through small eye and the larger eye above under the lip. Nice V4 when done as a stand start. Video https://www.instagram.com/p/CaEY9L4JaOw/

Crag classic. Start far under cave on two jugs facing the direction of climbing. Fun short V4 when done as a sit start from below the arete. Video https://www.instagram.com/p/CaEY9L4JaOw/

Very balancy, a gift from Jace Piper

5 U bolts to Wiregate loweroff.

4mts R of Praise the Lord. Hard.

Start on jug rail in cave, bottom rock excluded, up and left to mega jug. Traverse left through righteous crimps, huck to sloping rails on the lip then top out direct for a wicked finish.

Start as for Callistemon but head directly up into the dish without using the features on the right. Crafty toe hook and Slimpers

Sit start R/H on slopey sidepull and L/H low inside on the face (compression) big move up to crimp edge then climb original problem

Sit start on crimp and gaston crimp, move up through small crimp edges to gain the sloper slot, then out right to sidepull edge before smacking the slopey top to mantle directly above sloper slot.

Climb 97% mitch free, but move left to the small cave on the steep wall. Head straight up from here to lower offs at very top!

Weird and wandery (with some interesting rope-management challenges) but tackles some nutty terrain on the best rock here.

Start as for Rehabilitation, but instead truck left for days to a cave-rest. Then switch gears and throw yourself at the power-endurance headwall, moving left at the last bolt to climb the arete on its right side to gain the anchors.

Up the thin slab then veering left near the top.

The extension to Leech Seed. Start as for Razor Leaf, traverse right using the thin flake rail to meet the start of leech Seed then finish as this problem.

Start as for Bec De Corbin and move left staying low on the flakes before joining the start of Kukri, up the flake then right along the lip into the top of Bec De Corbin.

Low start on far left hand side of the boulder before the tree. Move up and right after gaining the matchbox shaped pinch mantelling and topping out.

Start as for Odachi but at the lip traverse all the way right into the top of Bec De Corbin.

Shared start with 'Whale Oil' but moving right along crimps and slopers to awkward mantel just left of the finish of 'The White Whale'.

Shared start with 'The White Whale' but slapping out and up the arete and mantling to top out on the right hand side of the cave.

Sit start as for 'Pak Choi' but move directly up along crimps and sidepulls. Keep right of 'Pak Choi'.

Sit start on the left hand side of the boulder on sloper and blocky crimp moving up left to larger bulge and topping out.

Stand start on the left hand side slopey crimp rail. Following this rail up and right keeping off of the lip until after gaining the high crimp and topping out.

Sit start on the right hand side of the boulder with left hand on pocket under the arete and left hand on crimpy pinch. move up and left to top out as for Tàijí Quán.

Hard to grade, need a second opinion but somewhere between V6 and 8.

Start left handed on the same start hold as 'Beef Tongue' tight hand on a blocky side pull on the inside of the little cave part of the boulder, glue you feet on the slap directly up the knob feature mantling and topping out.

Brilliant. Sit start with a left hand undercling and right hand on the arete as low as possible. Adds a few moves to join the stand, with one tricky move out to the left arete.

Start matched on the lowest left facing sloper moving left and up to gain small horizontal crack then up over the lip with either a high foot or jump.

Sit start under the L/H roof as for 'Jade Emperor'. From the sit gain the good slopey rail, a low traverse right gains the good jug then top out via the mantle exit.

The downhill facing arete. Sit start in the slopey jug hole and follow sidepulls and a mono to a desperate top out out right a bit. Nails at 5

A low traverse along the sloping edges on the face that finishes as for "The Aquarius". Stand-start with hands matched on the good edge on the right and head leftward along the sharp-angled slopers/crimps without using the lip for your hands. Make hard moves to the side pull on "The Aquarius" (at the arete) before using the lip to mantel. Somewhat contrived but fun.

A variant of "Dead or Alive" that avoids using the big hueco and stays a little more left and climbs then faint rib. Take the low R/H side pull, cross left hand to the golden pinch then make a hard move with your right to gain a another match box looking pinch. Finish matched on the ledge. Classic Norwegian power!

Start: Sit start on the R/H cave wall as for "we'll never make it out alive"

Follow the low rail right, press up into the pockets in the little roof then gain the feature on the face. Move up to the break below the boulder on top by either a big move right or by using the thin little pinch out right. Tops out over the right side of the block. Super!

Start: Sit start "matched" farthest left hand end of the low rail.

Start: Sit start as for 'Rigor mortis' on low underclings. Fire up right for the tufa feature, match it and finsih straight up to the ledge.

Climb the little prow to finish as "dead bolt" Avoid the twin pockets right or moving left low into the roof.

Start: Sit start below the little prow

Sit start as for happy pyramid, and traverse low right to large span move, not using any of the higher jugs in the cave. Then finish for dead and alive.

This problem starts as for the Established line but heads left, reversing the start of Extended line to gain the big rounded hole. Confused yet? I am.

Now move around to the left face and fire up for the top of the groove to top out.

Start: As for Established line

Sit start low in the back of the cave and follow out the obvious line of incut edges to the big horn. Slap around to the slopey top out. slighty easier if you finish a bit over right but often wet.

Start: At the back of cave matched on first incut edge

Climb up and right on super slopey features avoiding the crack on the left. Classic subtle sloper pulling

Start: Standing 1m right of the hole just before the rooflet, starting with a slopey R/H edge

Sit start as for Road Side Assistance. Follow the crack to the right and up same as Ridin on the Bump Stops.

Sit start low using bad holds on the arete. 'Snatch' the little break on the right hand face then up.

Start: This problem climbs the little sharp arete on the block just to the right.

CLOSED PROJECT.

Access

Starts from ground level. To access walk 20m past the overhang on lunch ledge to DUB below grey face with undocumented sport routes. Abseil ~25m down vegetated slope to cave (fixed rope advised). Next abseil is right (facing in), from DUB, ~25m to small ledge. Another ~25m abseil from DRB to ground.

1. 25m (Project) - Up the face to orange corner, traverse left under small roof then straight up open book corner. DRBB.

2. 25m (26) - Upwards through thin crack (crux) and a long move, then continue through easy runout. Climb through excellent orange wall with pockets and mantle bulge. Up the slab to DUBB.

3. 25m (Unknown) - Existing route finishing at steep slope. Route information and access back to lunch ledge TBC

Start as for 'The last post', joining 'Run for your life' after the roof

Starts 8m L of Monkey in the Soul at the L end of the cave at a double bolt belay. Move R across the overlaps up into the corner than further R across yellow hanging wall, out to the lip and up to rappel station. 1 fixed hanger and 6 rings. A good one in the wet.

Traverse in from the R to the steep weekness and up passing a huge incut. Rap anchor.

Steep climbing to finish at the "Swine Traverse" anchors.

10m L of Saggitarius and just before The Box. Hard start up to the roof then up and around the lip onto the arete. Finishes as for The Box. Bolted by Julian Hurrell and Paul Riviere Feb 2016. FA by Julian May 2016.

Left end of cave, stick clip first bolt to protect start, up to break #1 & 1.5 camming device then up steepening wall. DBB.

Start on smooth slot at the beginning of the left hand arete. Climb the arete all the way out to finish topping out the same as Sloths in the attic.

Start and finish as for ‘Slugs on the wall’. Move up to left hand slot and right hand flat side pull. Yeet to the break and mantle over. No feet on the wall to the right.