Routes in Australia for selected grade

This problem is contrived Start as for 'Climbing the Knuckles' but moving across left into the under clings, working your way into the start of 'Jailbreak' and to finish up that problem.

Desperate sloper mantle problem. Sit start on low buldge, move into sloper rail and press up.

Sit-start as for Slapped Up! Traverse left on good slopers before making powerful moves up.

Start as for Rapuntzel, solve an interesting slab traverse to join into CF, finishing up this.

Powerful climbing with a truly evil start, up thin flake to overlap. Looks good, bolts may need replacing. The second pitch could be an anti-climax though.

Start: Start on wall left of prominent orange off-width corner at left end of crag.

1. 25m (27) Thin flake crack into shallow corner (4 FHs) and a grey scoop (BR) and one more FH. Step left and go up short wall to ledge.

2. 25m (17) The wall above, veering left.

Sport route up smooth Arapiles like bulges. Start 5m left of Traitors gate at ferny seam, up past 3 FH to head left to corner then up past 2 more FH to lower off.

Looks can be deceiving. At R end of cliff, (5 metres L of Catch It), up left facing groove/corner to lower off. 3rd Ring is hard to clip.

Climb up Encorder Ici to the 4th bolt to jugs over rooflet. Make a big move to slot past bolt and continue rightwards to jugs and lower offs on Mothers Day project.

The obvious shallow corner. Starts from the ramp which is accessed from the right hand end of the cliff.

Start as for The Magic Shroom. Move left after the 1st FH. Desperate mantle to finish.

12m left of Champagne And Novocaine. Painfully thin and deceptively difficult climbing past 3 FH's.

The steep blunt arete to the R of Body Heat.

From the extreme right-hand end of the Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blase ledge reach up to clip the first BR, then head out right to reach the arete. Up the left side of this.

Looks good.

1. 35m. Start as for Diamond Dogs Direct Start. Up DDDS to its fourth bolt then straight up, through the traverse line of DD, and the headwall above (fixed hangers) to a double ring belay.

2. 45m. Step L and up into a thin flake (bolts). From the top of the flake, hard moves right up a series of edges. Up leftwards (bolts) to drop down left around the base of blunt arete and up into the gully to belay.

A rough/crystalline, flaring, diagonal crack... hmmm! Starts at the double rap ring at the end of p1 of Manhattan Project.

1. Up face (FH) to the right-leaning flared crack. Up this and thin crack (many cams and wires) to where it peters out. Up bulge (FH) to a small ledge. Up short wall (BR) to gain another ledge. Follow this for approximately 20m until an exit is possible.

One of the best single pitches at Mt Buffalo. A 'must do'. Right of 'Dressed to Kill' and 'Winnie the Pooh'. Abseil 50m from the top of 'Iron Maiden'. Starts at a double bolt belay at the base of a closed corner. Stem up the corner, step L into another corner, continue stemming up this to a few problematic moves out onto the left shoulder of the corner. Continue up to a flake then the slabby blunt arete and the top part of Iron Maiden. 10 bolts plus the top bolt of Iron Maiden

Stunning! Below LGL. Rap in, climb out via the arête, slab and think crack past FHs (20m) Finish up LGL.

Brushed streak (not so brushed any more) on left end of upper part of North Wall. Starts at bottom of second abseil on Comet Ramp at a small flake corner.

P.1... semi hanging belay on 1 carrot, 1 FH and 1 chain loop

P.2. 2 carrot bolts, 5FH's plus natural gear. This pitch was brushed 12/01/2022, but could do with more.

An outstanding, sustained and varied free climb that challenges the full gamut of granite styles. This is a distinctly more approachable prospect than the other free routes on this end of the wall consisting of generally easier cruxes, fewer run-outs and less small gear. The route follows a logical line of features incorporating sections of the aid routes Knocking on Heavens Door, She, Clouded Queen, Ozymandias and Strange Ritual. Most pitches include a mix of natural gear and bolts. Take a standard rack up to a 3 Camalot including some micro cams, small and medium wires.

1. 27, 35m. Start as for Knockin’ on Heavens Door and Free Reign in right facing corner. Continue up this for roughly 8m then move slightly left and over bulge. Continue up the right facing features above the initial corner until it becomes possible to climb rightward across a sequence of underclings toward more sustained climbing and a mix of bolts and natural gear placements.

2. 27, 50m. Follow the obvious right facing sickle-shaped tips layback until it peters out and leaves you in apparent blankness. Solve the puzzle then continue for 30+ meters up the shallow open scoop with many block holds and carrot bolts.

3. 27, 40m. As for pitch 5 of Free Reign up interesting weakness’s past aid belay and fixed hanger then continue up slab and slightly left over small overlap with powerful, thin climbing past two more fixed hangers. Finally, step right into crack and chunky features that lead to large ledge system on Ozymandias original to belay with two #2 Camalots.

4. 22, 35m. As for pitch 6 of Ozymandias Original. Follow obvious crack to the left and up through steepness to the sloping ledge and triple bolt belay.

5. 27, 50m. Follow the traverse pitch of Ozymandias Original pitch 7 for approximately 5 meters until it becomes possible to climb straight up a series of positive cracks toward the large, steep right facing corner above. Continue up corner until it becomes a roof and it is possible to clip a fixed hanger straight out the roof. Climb past this and over the headwall for the last of the routes' difficult climbing. Enjoy the wild position and hard climbing beneath your feet! Once a large ledge is reached either belay from here to break pitch into two or pick your way through the wide climbing to the top of the cliff.

Fix a rope from the top of the first abseil in order to exit the route. From the chain at the top of the slab immediately behind (west) of the top of Queen Victoria pinnacle, abseil 40m to reach the notch behind the pinnacle. From the outer edge of the ledge on the north side of the pinnacle, abseil from the chain, down the route to a grassy ledge. Up the finger crack and seam, past a peg runner (not in situ) to the base of a corner. Up this and slab to the chain (belay).

Laybacking up the crack with a couple of foot holds on the left.(sitstart)

Starts 2 or 3m right of 'Redbacks'. From the extreme right end of the ledge, make an exposed few moves up and right and follow the bolts up just left of the arete. Toward the top, angle up leftward to gain the 'Redbacks' belay.

Starts on sloped edge after last crimb and traverses only a couple of meters along the edge until the tricky mantle will bring you up to the top!

Classic! This is the 1st boulder on river right about 50 metres downstream from the bridge and ascends the stepped overhung orange face. Sit start using the chockstone for feet and pull hard off dual side pulls to get off the ground.

Start 1 metre right of Caddis on very small sloping holds and high right heel hook on small edge. Big move left into huge hole, then finish as for Caddis.

Start as for Doughboy. At jugs continue up the line to where the seam peters out. Head out R (crux) on tiny crimps and then up. 6 FHs.

The start of Project C.

Start in the chimney on the R of the orange wall. Traverse L across the orange wall and finish up Rolling In The Hay. Unfortunately this problem lost a starting hold in the chimney and is waiting to be re-climbed.

Start as for Sexy Mexican Milkmaids. Traverse left to big hold in centre of wall then finish as for Rolling in The Hay Direct Start.

Green holds

Pink(?) holds

Red holds

Grey/brown/beige-y/sandy holds

Blue holds

Red holds

Desperate

Sit start. Overhanging face right of the arete including Arete for left hand only once pulled on. Watch your head!

Sit start with pocket for LH, RH on slimps or undercling. Arete is out. Powerful pull on then drive to lip.

Sit start back of the roof. Out to the tip of the nose without using the positive holds on the left face of the nose used by LB9 or the right side lip. Powerful and technical but surprisingly not too hard.

Traverse the line of blocks using blocks 7 and under minus the bottom 2 rows. #traverse

Traverse the wall on the City side of the road only using the blocks 5 and under. #traverse

Traverse the wall on the city side of the road using blocks 6 and under minus the bottom row. #traverse

Traverse the line of blocks using blocks 7 and under minus the bottom 2 rows. #traverse

This route is a linkup comprised of 4 routes. Start at the start of "Lockdown Balance Training" then traverse right through to the holds "Menage a trois" then right through "Bon voyage" then through "Sort yourself out".

The link between the first two sections is the "Donut day" route. This is a fairly long route and definitely tests endurance - linking all the individual sections with some pump does increase the difficulty somewhat.

Up past hole 2m right of Raisa. Two carrots.

The slick and rounded crack with a very thin start.

The prominent left-trending crack in the middle of the block. Up to horizontal and onwards through offwidth crack in cap-block.

The obvious hanging arete; standing start (careful rock is loose).

Sit start just R of DG Classic. Up to rail; then up to 2nd rail to top out.

Obvious cracked arete R of Offwidth. Sit Start.

May be harder now than the FA. The spectacular steep arete L of Orpheus. Up the arete past 2 FHs, then hard moves up and R to jug and FH. Up the R face into the cave then L to the arete. Continue up the arete and finish up Chuck Solids. Rebolted with permission of the FA May 2022.

Steep and intense. Start 1m R of the base of the chimney (same as for The Razors Edge) Hard up to the 1st RB, and then slightly L past a 2nd RB before finishing up the top crack. Rebolted July 2022

Originally 24, it probably still is. A great pitch all the way, despite the 2 chipped holds. If they bother you, it should be possible to eliminate them.

Start: Start 2m L of Grimulace.

2m right of Snail on a Razor blade with 2FH's. Some strenuous gastons lead to a thin crimp rail.

Roman Warfare 27 “The first ascent required an army of support to fight his way up this feisty number” Don your armour, put some plumes in your helmet and quest up the arete, conserve the small shrub for cover, regroup your troops at the ledge where the fun begins. Stalk your way up the balancy face to ambush your enemy. Beware of booby trap loose rock in the roof let. Check for previous soldiers shin skin, leg hair and blood at the lip, mount your horse and gallop up the arete to victory. R side of the Spintrian arete to the ledge then the L wall of the Golgotha corner over the roof and up the R side of the arete to DBB loweroff

Start as for 'Redex Irlont Sudano' then continue straight up when Redex goes Right. Continue up the very thin face to the crack and loweroff. Started life as a 24, some holds fell off, given 25, lost some more…… and is now very thin. Rebolted May 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria

Start from cave 3m R of 'Veni Vedi Vici'.

Up face then R to ledge. Up the arete. Stick clip first bolt and clip bolt of climb left if you want this to feel like a sport routes, otherwise bring gear.

Starts 2m L of 'Fuel the Fire'. Sharp at least 26, probably 27.

4 RBs - Rebolted June 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria

Start RH on low lip, LH on juggy pocket (old tick) ie all except hard first moves of Southside. Up into the Hull via a cool sequence. Was probably solid at the grade at V5... now V6 after the best hold on the lip got kicked off!

PS then SR extension. Adds a grade.

'Elevator door' stand start with the HD gaston right hand and left on the opposing gaston crimp (see start hold topo). Technical moves up left trending flake to jug (horn and jug on right are out). From jug traverse left to finish as for SR using that problems undercling flake jug. Was a bit mean at V5.

Start matched on finishing jugs of the Radness. Sequency traverse right to gain the seam at start of RTK. Finish as for that problem. Essentially a longer start.

Sit start with RH undercling and LH crimp. Make a challenging deadpoint into the seam out left before continuing up through some hugging and barndooring.

SDS matched on the lumpy jug. Edge and dish on the shield and then array of equally poor features above.

Alternately can start on jugs of the Inbetweener, traversing left to NE prow start holds to link with Underground Resistance at V6 (dotted line - aka Short Circuit).

Ultra low start to OTFD with LH on obvious low layaway and RH on ear below start edges of OTFD. 2 hard moves to gain OTFDs start, finishing as for OTF, GSFP2 or Migration.

The crew reckon the start has to be a 6. Hard sit start at face between SOOHC and SOOHS with good LH layaway and low RH undercling/layaway. Tough moves to gain edges on lip and cool easy mantle.

Outstanding! Adds 4m of V6 to Migration. Start up TCOIA then left via edges on FTS to join Migration via excellent technical sequence. Lip of Boulder and jugs on detached block are out.

Adds 10m, a thought provoking traverse, a new gr25 crux, 1.5 grades and a pretty dicey clip to GA. As for SH to third clip (extend for drag) then before gaining layaway jug marking the end of its first crux traverse right clipping low ring then a difficult move or two to gain GA at its second hold (don’t step off... that’d be dumb). Climb all of GA, being careful not to spill its first clip (which might be ok with a sharp belayer).

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SVs start at the same grade.

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top. Now best to finish direct to BGAEs new anchors. Soft touch.

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder. Who changed this to 27? Tell em they're dreaming! May have been mistaken for the direct but the original was always (26).

Yet another linkup: Start on Bop, traverse into Satanic Verses like for Satan Said Dance, but instead of following Satanic Verses to the top, keep traversing up left from the largish sloper-sidepull ledge via Between Good And Evil, finishing on the Left Hand of Satan. Probably been done before? Nice homogeneous difficulty from start to top.

Start up Bop for 3 bolts, then move down and left into large pocket on SV. Finish up Satanic Verses Direct. Easier than SV original and HS original, but very nice. Traversing left higher (above the large pocket on SV) is an excellent and more sustained variant also at 26. A large nut can be placed after the last bolt if you don't like the run out to the top.

Another link up for when you have finished the rest. Climb Broomstick to jugs. Extend third bolt then traverse right to join the crux of HS original. Once through the difficulties finish as per Boogie RHV. More sustained than HS original. Could be closer to 27.

Depravity into Wolf Variant.

Variant finish to Hollow Screams Original eliminating the jug and flake to right of the arete. Cool climbing and spicy runout makes this a fun way to stiffen up Depravity, The Howling or Hollow Screams Direct without changing their grades. Becomes the main event in Day of the Wolf. Gain the undercling mid crux in HSO then climb direct up arete/face to gain the hanging scoop (jug and flake to right out - and out of reach). Finish up Voodoo People headwall.

HSO to mid crux then Wolf Variant Finish.

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP. Crux bolt replaced 2015 after the original glue in started to move!

Sit start out of the wombat hole on sharp edges (left one well left under fallen tree... if you start on the 2 close edges take a grade off). Hard moves up and slightly right via sharp crimps to exit left of nose goblin (you never make it as far right as the slope). The left hand lip of the boulder is also out.

Low sit start 1.5m left of NG jugs at poor left hand slimp and obvious flat cut edge for right (if starting with the incut crimp on right hand give yourself solid V4). Hard moves via sharp crimps to gain the LHV of NG. Jugs on standard start out for feet also.

A variant to Airtime. A bigger jump to a better hold. Sit start right of Scar face using the same holds as Airtime (LH gaston, RH low crimp). Instead of dynoing to sloping lip, go big to the jug to the right (not the one below the top). Mantle finish.

Low sit start at right end of face on LH crimp layaway and RH crimp. Once your ass is off jack long to a slopey divot on the right up over the top. Might be easier if you have span. Might not.

PTYP sit first moves to edges then traverse hard right at same level (not up to large lay away or jugs in the scoop of PTYP) via some tech thin moves to gain blunt arete. Up via slopey edges to gain right end of scoop and up. Someone’s done some brushing here recently... who knows if climbed. Can be climbed from a low stand on the blunt arete at about V4 and will have a very hard direct sit start.

Obvious bulged prow/arete right end of boulder. Sit start on obvious low flake (gentle... it needs to be pinned). Tricksy feet to gain slopes then cool paste on edges and compression straight up the prow. A cooler harder variant will lip traverse right to gain the brilliant but easy hanging slab.

Open for business... The full traverse from right to left. SDS on Molly's big undercling, dropping down through start holds of Speedfreak, eliminating crimps on Toot, and finishing up 8 Ball.

The Entry to gain the arete then left via the early crux of speedball to gain Toot and up as for that.

Eliminate independent of arête and any holds left of seam below. Pretty goey.

The fridge shaped tower between baguette and Graf Spee. Very awkward sit start from flat hold and no lower block makes up the crux (and may be harder than 6... hard to tell as it took ages to sort beta). Then climb face and right arete (no jams) finishing up awesome pocketed head wall. Can be climbed using small edge on bottom block for feet at about V3.

Thin and super commiting! Instead of escaping left as per Moamyn's Manual, eliminate that problems finishing hold and continue straight up to the groove above via a small incut edge.

V6? Start as TFv4. Use the right hand on the undercling, reach up with the left on the left most edge and move up the head wall. Looks pretty sketchy.