Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
27 | ★★★ The Seventh Banana
A good aid climb turned into a great free climb. The first pitch is worth a star or two in its own right and is justifiably very popular with Taipan virgins. Start 25m R of The Great Divide, and 8m R of The Chick is Trouble.
FFA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson FA: FA Nick Reeves, Dave Mudie & Steve Due (alt), 1975 | 55m, 2, 6 | |||
26 | ★★★ Sirocco
Another classic up this unlikely looking section of cliff. The crux at the start of the second pitch is ridiculously hard, and can be quite demoralising. Some prominent international climbers have suggested up to 8a for this move! It is also enjoyable, and far easier, to either (a) pull on that one bolt to reduce the grade to 25M1, or (b) freeclimb around to the R past the 1st bolt of Father O then back L into Sirocco before the 2nd bolt of Father O. Start about 20m R of The Seventh Banana, and 3m L of The Seventh Pillar.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1989 | 52m, 2, 5 | |||
26 | Father Sirocco (linkup)
Some consider this a route that isn't worth recording; others consider it to be better than either of the two original routes that it links! It is easier than either of the original (sandbagged) lines - maybe that accounts for its popularity. Start up Father O to its second bolt, then traverse delicately left to join Sirocco's second bolt. Finish up Sirocco. | 30m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★★ Father Oblivion
Extraordinary moves on immaculate rock. If you're picky you might deduct a star due to the numerous rests, and the bouldery crux start being several grades harder than the final 25m. Tougher than many Taipan 26s, but easier than Sirocco so it can't be 27 ... can it?! Often repeated using only the bolts with some 6-8m runouts, but most people also use a couple of wires and cams. Start as for Sirocco pitch 2, delicately to the horizontal break at 3m (cam). Step R then up cruxy wall (2 RBs) to ledge. Step R to RB, up the juggy scoop (wires), then veer L to stance below roof. RB on lip, then a long reach/dyno gains the delightful grey headwall (3 RBs, cam). Lower-off (30m+ to ledge, tie a knot in the end of 60m ropes, or 48m to the ground). Rebolted ~2006. A great 25ish variant avoids the crux past the 2nd bolt by moving L below it, joining Sirocco for a few moves then rejoining Father O above the 2nd bolt. An independent start has also been done off the ledge, its protected by tiny trad and, instead of sharing the first few metres of Sirocco p2 off the L end of the ledge, it goes up and a bit left from the middle of the ledge to the 1st bolt of Father O. FA: Simon Mentz, 1991 | 52m, 7 | |||
27 | ★★ Pythonesque
A good option if you think Father O eases off too much after its crux. Start as for Father O, until just past it's 3rd bolt. Now head up the R side of the scoop, through bulge past 2 FHs and 2 RBs (thin crux direct past 2nd RB - deduct a grade (and maybe some self respect) if you deviate L around this bolt into Father O) to break. Trend R from break to top. Take cams & wires. If that's not enough harder climbing for you then throw in the worthwhile direct start, from the middle of the belay ledge and heading up L (good tiny trad) to Father O's first bolt. FA: Will Monks, 2013 | 35m | |||
27 | ★★★ Mirage
Variety! The famous HB dyno route as immortalized by Simon Carter's photos in the early 1990s. Take a full rack up to #2.5Fr, including Aliens, RPs, and sling runners (and/or double ropes) to minimise drag. Start as for Sirocco.
FA: Malcolm Matheson (pitch 1), 1990 FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013 | 35m, 2, 15 | |||
26 | Snake in the Grass
Goes left from 7th Pillar LHV to finish at the top of Mirage P1. FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013 | ||||
26 | Slytherin
Start from the ground as for The Great Affair. Trend diagonally L past 2 new bolts to ledge. Continue L and up 7th pillar LHV flake, then finish as for Snake in the Grass to Mirage ledge. 3 cruxes separated by rests. FA: Graeme Dick, 16 Jul 2016 | 30m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★★ Sidewinder
Another excellent 15m variant to Serpentine. Follow Serpentine pitch 2 for 12m until halfway up the fridge hugging. Trend R and up past bolts to loweroffs (30m to 1st belay, 52m to ground). The loweroff is somewhat diagonal - be careful not to end up hanging in space. FA: Scott Walter, 2000 | 30m | |||
27 | ★ Naja pitch 1
| 25m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
26 | ★★ Snake Flake
A strenuous single pitch, mostly superb 22-23ish but with a distinct hard section. It takes the main arete-like thing bounding the L side of this large red scooped out section of cliff. Start on the elevated ledge, 3m L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up.
FA: Malcolm Matheson (originally starting up Invisible Fist - he added the direct start through the roof with Jacqui Middleton & Neil Monteith on)., 2003 | 25m, 4 | |||
26 R | ★★★ The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight)
A few pieces of gear down low on the easier sections. Probably the most popular route on Taipan - not least because of it's spoodgy grade and the quantity of shiny stainless steel! Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up, below a well-chalked slabby thin flake. Clip some cams as the start is easy but delicate and unprotected.
FA: Gordon Poultney & Chris Jones (p1 Jan 1996). Extension: Kilian Fischhuber 3/8/2012, 1996 | 26m, 2, 7 | |||
26 | ★★★ Fisting Party (Link-Up)
A link-up of The Invisible Fist into the top pitch-and-a-half of World Party. One of the greatest single pitches in the universe for anyone with the stamina. 'Almost' a sport route (15 bolts) with only two medium wires being optional on the entire route. Climb Invisible Fist to the 2nd last ring, then step right (FH) into the slopey rightwards traverse of World Party pitch 2. Finish up pitch three of World Party. Rope drag is ok if you use extenders and roller-biners appropriately, but could be horrendous if you don't. FA: Neil Monteith, 2006 | 50m, 15 | |||
26 | ★★ Jumping Viper
Start on the elevated ledge, 4m R of the boulder and 2m L of a small tree. The wall between IF and WP, then finish up IF past it's last bolt. If you're not as long and strong as Rhys, its still a good 26M1 by pulling past the jump. The extension out the scoop/roof to the lip has 2 very old bolts in it and is an open project. FA: Will Monks (26M1 & pulled past the jump), 2000 FFA: Rhys van Gastel, 2013 | 28m, 7 | |||
27 | ★★★ World Party
1
21
20m
2
27
13m
3
24
20m
The stunning final pitch is one of the very best on the wall. Before you get there, there's a hard crux on the 2nd pitch. The hanging 2nd belay is best avoided by linking pitches 2 and 3, while pitch 2 is easily worked from the ground if you have a recalcitrant belayer. Start on the elevated ledge, 7m R of the top of the boulder and just R of the small tree, at a short fat flake on the slab.
FA: Peter Cresswell (1), Andy Pollit (2 & 3), 1990 | 53m, 3, 9 | |||
27 | ★★ World Party Pitch 2
FA: Andy Pollit | 12m | |||
26 | ★★ Forked Tongue
A rising traverse line across a major feature linking Anaconda into Mr Joshua. Start at rap chain at end of first pitch of Anaconda. Climb Anaconda's 2nd pitch for 3 bolts then scuttle right (2 UBs) into white cave. A good alternative is to head R from Anaconda's 2nd FH and heelhook up the diagonal bulge (pre-extend the 1st UB). From the cave, go-go-gadget span between scoops to reach juggy flake. Swing across this (large wires/cams, or just run it out) then up final scoopy headwall (UB) to join Mr Joshua pitch 1 at it's last bolt. Backclean, or get some idiot to second then rap off (38m). FFA: Toby Pola FA: Equipped & dogged by Neil Monteith, 2005 | 25m, 8 | |||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua
The brilliant first pitch is one of the most popular at Taipan and was a very impressive effort by the young bumblies Jared and Simon. Often cited as the best 25 in Australia. Pitch 2 is far less popular, but still excellent. Start from the R-hand end of the ledge, 4m R of Anaconda's flake. Set a belay, or belay from the ground.
FA: Pitch 1 Jared McCulloch & Simon MentzPitch 2 Jared McCulloch 18-10-1989, 1989 | 50m, 2, 12 | |||
27 | ★★★ Mr Que
This linkup provides an easier way to do Tourniquet p2 as a single monster pitch from the ground. Climb Mr J p1 to it's 2nd last bolt, slopy traverse R to middle of black streak (cams), spicy up black streak into the spacious cave. Join Tourniquet pitch 2 up the arete. | 45m, 10 | |||
26 | ★★★ Mr V
The easiest way to do Venom p2. Climb Mr J until 5m above it's crux, then take the jug traverse R to join Venom p2 and follow this to the top in one mega pitch from the ground. | 50m, 11 | |||
27 | ★★ Rattler
2 bolt boulder start to RS. Classic!! | ||||
26 | ★★★ Rattlesnake Shake
Ho hum, just another fantastic Taipan route. You'll be shaking on the slab section! Continually bouldery climbing split by good rest stances. Start as for Venom on the ledge 15m off the ground. Traverse right as for Kaa pitch 2 (small-med cams), past the black streak with 2 FHs (don't clip them, that's Rattler), almost to Kaa's second bolt (don't clip this either!). Straight up grey streak above past 6 FHs and a fixed wire up high. Route finishes in large cave at rap rings (35m to the ground). You need a 60m rope to (laboriously) tramline back to the belay, or a 70m to lower off to the ground. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 35m, 7 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Not Too Bad
Underrated and sustained. Graded 27 for many years although Simon originally thought it was 28. Some people love it and some people hate it. Six u-bolts and an exciting runout at the finish. The last bolt was added ten years after the first ascent to stop a potential 14m fall! FA: Simon Carter | 18m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★ Bottom Feeder
Up Menstrual then head right past a few more bolts, should be more popular but run out at the crux. FA: Garry Phillips | 18m | |||
26 | ★★ Nights in Venice
Start below twin pockets. Lunge to jug. 'Excellent' top crux. A climb worth a good look. Equipped by Simon Ozolins in the mid 90s, but with a crappy start a bit further right (indicated by 15a in the topo). Start: Start where the Menstrual tree used to be (3m R of the new Menstrual start). FA: Kent Paterson & early, 2009 | 16m, 8 | |||
27 | ★ Sticky Fingers
Climbs Garry's old project up and left from third bolt on Weak Boy past a cool boulder. Was a bolting (and glueing?) controversy, with a dodgy SIKA hold. Start: Start as for 'Weak Boy'. FA: Garry Phillips, 2000 FFA: Simon Young, 2013 | 15m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★ Weak Boy
Short + soft + bolts = popular. Climbs better than it looks. Rebolted 2013. Start: Start 4m R of Dial-a-Lama. FA: garry phillips | 12m, 5 | |||
26 | ★ Custard Chucker
The direct version of Weaky Boy, less slopers and more pockets! FA: Simon Young, 2013 | 12m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★ This Spurting Life
Soft tick if you can crimp. Bouldery climbing from start to finish. Three FH's. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994 | 12m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Closed Spurt Wall (Bouldering) | |||||
V6 | ★★ Miss Muppet
Sit start a couple of meters to the right of the end of the 'The Spurt Traverse'. Start on small edges heading up an left to the good pockets and final victory jug. | ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Afterglow Boulders | |||||
V6 | ★ Bossanova Roof
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Between the Sheeps | |||||
V6 | Kamikaze
Should be obvious due to the name, the nature of the crux, and the whereabouts of the 30ft slab under the final move. Sit start and make a HUGE move out of a RH pocket undercling to the massive jug out on the lip, either direct or via the intermediate sloper. What ever you do - don't come off the match! | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Remains of Sheep
A variation, but one of the best lines here. Starts as for 'Chas Remains' to the 3-finger pocket, then gaston right and continue rightwards past good pockets and a pinch, finishing as for 'Between the Sheeps'. A great 13-move pumpfest. Watch the landing on the final move. | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Between the Sheeps
A direct line out from the start of When We Were Kings to a 'thread' undercling, then big move out to the large pocket, then finish directly (same finish as for 'Remains of the Sheep'). Watch the landing! Note: The original write up finished as for 'Chas Remains' and was given V7. | ||||
V6 | Family Loss
The name becomes apparent as soon as you take position in the sit start (there's a tree between your legs). Awkward low start then up via crimps and a fantastic finish jug. | ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Tyger, Tyger
Burning bright. Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'. A burly start leads into the corner which takes you to the roof, which has three manky pitons (and bomber gear). From here there is a tough move at the lip and 2 FHs before the lower off. FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 20m, 5 | |||
27 | ★★ Inkido Roof
This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls. Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1993 | 12m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Wildsides | |||||
V6 | ★★★ The Beginning of a Great Adventure
Blue Mountains-like rock and style. Sharp, crimpy, steep and a great landing. | ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Closed The Snake Pit | |||||
V6 | ★★ Attack of the Killer Drop Bears
Another dynamic problem. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★ Thinklite
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre The Plaza Strip | |||||
26 | ★★ Exile on Main Street
Super techy grit slopes, mid height rest and cool finish. Optional #3 Camalot on long sling above crux. FFA: Josh Grose, 2012 | 20m, 5 | |||
27 | ★★★ From the Womb to the Tomb
Powerful corner climbing at its best. Start about 20m right 'Technorganica' around the right side of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb starts about 2m right of corner, climb up to horizontal crack, traverse this to gain corner proper. Continually powerful moves up corner to exit it on the left then traverse back right over the top of it to DB lower off. 'Extension' is an open project. FFA: adam demmert, 2010 | 15m, 5 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Citadel | |||||
V6 | ★ Penguin
| 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Left Penguin
| ||||
V6 | ★★ Scary Monster
Isolated highball problem away from the main 'Citadel'. | ||||
V6 | Silica Superhighway
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Cave Club | |||||
V6 | ★★ Full Cream
A direct start to 'Skim Milk' - finishing as for that problem. | 4m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Windjammer Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Abandon Ship
A direct route up the smooth orange wall. Several huge dynamic moves, and is very well protected despite appearances. Rebolted 2017. A hold may have come off this route making it harder FA: Steve Monks, 1995 | 25m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Loversleep Cliff | |||||
26 | The Rainbow Serpent
FA: Pete Stebbins & Andrew Stevens, 1991 | 9m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Bowler Boulder | |||||
27 | ★ Slit Your Throat
The FA was nearly stolen by my younger brother Daniel who fortunately fell off after the crux. Start 3m R of The Fear of Music. The thin face to a very thin and hard boulder to reach the break. Step R a move and take the R side of the headwall to the DRB loweroff. The old carrots and hangers have been replaced with Fixe ringbolts 3 Mar 17 (Is this Slit Your Throat as per http://vicclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Grampians-update.pdf )?? FA: Matt Brooks, 1990 FA: Matt Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1993 | 15m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Closed Gun Buttress | |||||
27 | ★★ Crazy Da Must Sing
Excellent climbing with a very technical finish. One of the only Scott Camps projects that he actually managed to get up! FA: Scott Camps & Peter Griffen, 1988 | 18m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Battlescarred Blocks | |||||
26 | Bolt Action Directe
The original line (24) traversed left and then back right, avoiding the dyno. The direct version powers straight up past 3 FHs. FA: Brain Grey & Steve Chapman, 2002 | 10m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Amnesty Wall Area Amnesty Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Minor Threat (Link-up)
Starts as league of Nations, Goes into UN, then finishes as good fight direct. Some linkups are pretty lame, but imho this is f#cking ace. | ||||
26 | ★★ The Good Fight Direct
Fantastic boulder sequence to finish off a great route. FFA: Kent Paterson, 2012 | 25m, 9 | |||
26 | ★★ Peace Keeper
Eat your spinach for the top! | 23m, 8 | |||
27 | ★ Freedom Fighter
Bloody hard finish which can be done two ways. Start: Line of FH's up black seam just to the right of 'Amnesty International'. FA: Matt Brooks | 25m, 10 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Amnesty Wall Area Crank Start Amphitheatre | |||||
26 | Blood Diamond
Starts about 3 or 4 metres right of 'Sendero Luminoso' and a couple of metres left of the easy stuff. Up the wall past a fixed hanger to the horizontal break. Move a couple of metres left to a pocket and head up immediately right of this through the bulge past a second fixed hanger. Trend left to join 'Sendero Luminoso' at its fourth bolt and follow that route to the top. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael O'Reilly, 2008 | 25m, 6 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty B1 Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Transcience
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V6 | ★★ Puppet Master
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Gas Boulder | |||||
V6 | Gas
Crux slab hold may have broken. | 5m | |||
V6 | Liquid Skin
| 4m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main B4 Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★ Mary Mohito
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Rocks on Blocks Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Emerald Arête
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Zoolander Area | |||||
V6 | Blue Steel
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Shotgun Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Riding Shotgun
An area classic that is more technical than it first looks. Sit start on good holds in the low seam and climb up and leftwards, making the most of a variety of challenging slopers! If you use the line of sidepulls and underclings going out right at the start, then you are on the right-hand variant V4 (but you won't be the first to be mistaken!). Phyllis climbs Riding Shotgun! FA: Corrine Gwyther, 2000 | 3m | |||
V6 | Death and Decay
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Andersens Slabs | |||||
V6 | Feverish
| ||||
V6 | Esteria
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Seduction Wall | |||||
V6 | ★ The Crucible
| 4m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main The Russian Bull Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Russian Bull
Climb most of 'Croatian Cow', keep traversing around the nose, to mantle onto the slab. FA: Team Austria | 5m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Andersens Consulting Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ This Way Up
Sit start matched on little input edges and a sidepull. Climb straight up to top out. Getting your butt off the ground is no easy feat. | 3m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main The Shield | |||||
V6 | ★★ The Shield
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Sydney Highrise Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Surrender Monkey
Sit start on big jug hole of Sydney Highrise and climb left to jug pockets and left again to smaller pockets to finish up French Toast Direct. | 5m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Discovery Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Discovery
Technical highball. | ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Bad Cliche Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★★ All Bets Are Off
Sit start on the right side of the scoop. Make a big move up the face to a crimp and big edge. Continue to the top. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ As the Crow Flies
Start as for Ass Backwards and move up to slopey features. Dyno from here up right to the worn white jug on the face....like a boss! Top out. (Good holds used for Ass Backwards, up from the slopey feature are out - besides why would you not want to do the dyno?) | 4m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Dali Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Phantom Cart
| 3m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke The Scab | |||||
V6 | ★★ Hot Mama Vibes
Sit start matched in bucket jug on left side of prow. Bust out right and compress up. S1m1an FA: Phil Neville, 2010 | 4m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke Apartment Block | |||||
V6 | ★★ Vicious Delicious
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke Shandy Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Gillette
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke Bridesmaid Walls | |||||
V6 | ★★ Running Man
Start with LH edge and RH slopey pinch. Traverse 3m right on the horizontal weakness and bust straight up the face on a crimp and chicken heads and an easy mantle. Fantastic line! | ||||
V6 | ★★ Ridunculous
Start at the good jugs near the left most of the big pockets. Cross to a deep pocket and jump for the lip. Careful of the landing. | ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke 3 Star Buttress | |||||
V6 | Telekinetic
| 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Platinum Flow
| 7m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Unknown Problems (to be sorted) | |||||
V6 | ★★ 45 V6 high
| ||||
V6 | ★★ 50 up wall L or R
| ||||
VB- - 10 | Unknown/Unticked - to delete
FA: Gav Portier/ Gilli Helbig | ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Wall Clicke Wall | |||||
26 | Slave Driver Saliva
A run-out excursion that will probably be more popular as a top-roping problem. Start: Start a couple of metres right of 'A Long Way From Verona'. FA: Gordon Poultney, Simon Mentz & Donna Bridge, 1996 | 25m | |||
26 | ★ Order Through Chaos
Put up by Corrine Gwynther FA: Corrine Saunders (nee Gynther), 2000 | 25m, 5 | |||
27 | ★★★ One Bed to the Left
Outstanding arete with some very technical moves. Rebolted 2011 (thank goodness). Start: 10m L of 'Clicke Crack' is the scarily exposed traverse which leads left to the main section 'Clicke Wall'. Start just L of the scary bit, under the L side of the obvious short arete. FA: Dave Jones. Bolted & attempted by Scott Camps., 1997 | 18m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Kindergarten Closed The Kindergarten (bouldering) | |||||
V6 | ★ Slaying Dragons
| ||||
V6 | ★★ Spicy Fingers
| ||||
V6 | Strawberries & Cream
| ||||
V6 | ★ The Kindergarten Scoop
The giant scoop 10 meters left of Gripmaster. Step into scoop gaining two well chalked under clings, walk up feet high and leap for rail. Needs many pads and spotters as it is committing and in serious ankle breaking territory. | 5m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Kindergarten Northern Caves | |||||
26 | ★ Our House, In The Middle Of The Street
Belay below the crack leading out right through the roof. When the crack gets really small go out to the jug to the left. Originally climbed as an M3 aid route. Who did the first free ascent remains a mystery. FA: Adam Darragh & Robbie Mackillop, 1989 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Tupameros Area | |||||
26 | ★ Hamster Roof
Another trademark HB roof climb. Shitty looking rock but climbs well. Start: The flaky roof on the right side of the terrace immediately above Gunboat Diplomacy's first pitch. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1990 | 27m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Sandinista Direct
Steep crack climbing. It's the finger crack straight up the headwall, starting about 18m up Sandinista. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992 | 30m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block | |||||
V6 | ★ Emory Board
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V6 | ★★ Fallen Cow
On the slightly overhanging face right of 'The Font Mantle' block. Sit-start (or crouched!) on a good horizontal jug, then traverse right (staying low) along the lip - then up around the nose to finish on a jug. | ||||
V6 | ★★ XXXX
Sit-start under the 'flat' roof just where the XXXX graffiti resides. Sharp pocket and hopeless edge, then up and slightly left, finishing as for 'Fallen Cow'. |