Routes in South Australia for selected grade

As for Slave to the Widm to the horizontal, then traverse left following the break to the end.

On the southern side, up the smooth wall to the horizontal. Continue up the hanging corner.

The wide, crooked crack which leans right in the middle of the wall.

Right of the TWTC Sit start on large slopey edge, trend left to gain high arête, top out right of chock stone. Watch the landing.

Begin as for Flash Nick From Jindavik, but traverse right at the horizontal to a corner and up that.

Climb the slab using LH arête.

Stand start on slab uphill from D.M. Boulder. Climb the middle.

Climb the slab using RH arête.

Sit start, then climb the crack up the rounded corner.

Sit start, then climb the crack right of Donovan.

Sit start with RH pocket and LH sidepull, climb the slab.

Overhanging wall with slopey features right of descent gully. Sit start on slopers, climb to the top.

Sit start in the obvious crack in the middle of the boulder. Climb through glorious moves on solid rock to gain a large, flat, jug edge at 6m, finish here. Relatively flat landing.

The middle overhanging scoop-runnel. Climb the scoop, step right under a small roof and exit.

Start as for 'Flash Mee Dick at Jindavik', but traverse right at the horizontal to a corner and up that.

Layback straight up the central crack starting at the signpost.

The juggy layback crack around the right side of the boulder looking from the track.

Unprotected and undercut arete between S...nake and SJC.

Stand-start on the good diagonal ledge, up onto good small sloper hold and top out.

Or possibly both. Stand start on the blankest section of the boulder, using shallow sidepull crimp and left-hand smear in feature to right. Slap up to sloper top and up.

Start on the left hand side of this boulder on a good rail, throw a heel up next to your hand, move right to the arete and finish up with the same mantle as Spearhead.

Start as for Frog legs and traverse up and right along the rail, top out.

Sit start at right end of wall with undercling and edge on face. Traverse left to the middle of the wall and top out on jugs.

Sit start as for Rainbow Paddle Pop, then traverse all the way to Frog Legs and up and out.

This boulder (Shane's Boulder) and the following 3 problems are on the first small boulder located along the stretch.

Sit start on big jugs on leftside of boulder, straight up and out

Start matched on obvious jug in the prominent crack on the Southern side of the Salmon Boulder. Follow the crack up, step out onto the face and top out to the right of the bulge.

The right hand line on the eastern side of the boulder. Start on the low crimp rail, bust your way up to the glorious sloper jug and find your way to the top.

On the edge of Oyster Pie, awesome climb and a lot of fun! The crux is the bulge 4m up!

4 m right of 'Guns Get Down', Narrow crack

Start up Dr Dre to the break (3m). Ensure you listen to your tutor regarding whether a lock is pinky up or pinky down, then layback and finger lock your way up the seam. Super fun!

An amazing outing up the seam and corner! A very spicy lead and just as enjoyable as a TR. Bring micro nuts for the first half.

Stem across to large footer and pre-place a good #3 BD nut before launching up the seam (options for smaller back up nuts also). Boulder problem leads you left into the corner, another foot or so allows for some micro nut placements (Kong#2 and BD#4, smaller options exist also). Up fun corner with solid gear, mantle, and up final short crack. Great!

Corner 5m R of Watchful Eyes then the headwall on the R.

Same start as for RBTT. Delicate moves up slab, gain good holds in crack and fire up the nose with good jams and a tricky exit out through the right crack.

Start 6m L of Never Never Land and follow 3 bolts (take care clipping the second) to join NNL at the step. Abseil off the 4th NNL bolt if you like.

Stand start, head up the face on good crimpy edges

Stand start and head up the slabby scoop. Fairly high but the landing is as nice as you could hope for, and the rock appears excellent. Reversing the climb is possibly the easiest way down, although descent may also be possible on the side towards the fields if pads can be moved

Match hands to start with right foot on sloping wall to the right, pull up into the crack then to the top.

Sit start in big crack with large side pull and right foot in crack. Move out left to nice Weaco's.

Traverse entire lip of Weaco Boulder left to right

Novelty traverse. Sit start on right side, heel hook your way to the other side with a tough mantle.

Sit start on shark tooth jug, out through jugs, tough mantle at the hole

Sit start on black undercling pockets, up face/arete.

Sit start matched on giant flake, out to 3 finger pocket, up and mantle.

Stand start on big sidepull flake and up, high but fun!

Large crack on left hand side, stand start at the bottom. Worthwhile!

Start as for Pocket Crack and traverse left on crimps into Chopped Nuts

Sit start LH in mini jug and RH on side pull, follow seam left and mantle out.

Sit start LH on good break, RH on side pull, straight up crack.

Sit start in crack 1m right of Morning Ray, good ledge for feet. Up crack to top.

Stand start on huge jug, nice moves to a big horn on the lip, mantle.

Sit start at the bottom of the crack, quest upwards and mantle. Large pads help. Great fun!

Same start as Cotator Ruff, straight up and right

Sit start on sidepulls and up.

Sit start in crack hidden behind large boulder. Layback your way up, fun movement!

LH variant

Tall and high quality jug fest! Located on the large overhanging wall, it sits behind a sloping boulder that follows the same angle of the problem so this keeps the landing very manageable.

Scramble down to the very bottom (or duck in under the boulder from the right side) and climb your way out, super fun! Can be some pooled water at the bottom after a big swell.

RH variant

The tallest side of the toilet block furthest from the water

The tallest side of the toilet block closest to the beach.

In the deep cave round the corner from the eastern end of Penguin Point beach. Sit start on the column, move up the unexpectedly pleasant holds to the horizontal lip, then continue left traversing out onto the left face. FA finished in a somewhat nondescript jug shown in topo (just before the rock becomes extremely sharp and generally unpleasant). Really nice, steep technical climbing at a low grade

It takes the line above SF climb past a rusty hunks of steel ( WARNING DONT FALL AS THE HUNK OF STEEEL WILL OPEN YOU RIGHT UP) follow up to the top

Up 2m R of Death, just L of a tree.

Holds are peeling off the wall, better get in fast, before it becomes unclimbable.

3 bolts with two side by side and one at the top

2 bolts with home-made fixed hangers on the stained stone follow straight up to finish

A traverse start at WTP and follow up to second bolt the traverse across to TAF and finish at top of TAF

On the north-most wall near the walking path. More powerful than it first looks - stand start on big jug on right of column, near the metal girder. Climb up and left, without touching anything beyond the arête. Careful not to startle the locals as you top-out.

Start matched on two edges and make your way up through an unlikely crimp rail and top out. You can finish at the jug too if you don't want to top out.

Sit start with hands matched on large jug. Head straight up and top out.

Start as for 'Orquidea' and when at large edge veer left and top out as for 'Rosa Right'.

Start with your left and right hand on sidepulls. Then move into crimps, following the line up the left-hand side of the slab.

Climb the centre of the slab.

The narrow wall and arete just L of Breathless to a double bolt belay.

Straight up the layback flake to the chains (or beyond).

Bolts L of Gladiator, stepping into that route to finish.

Takes the overhanging line just left of the corner (marked). Climb through the overhanging start (crux) to a stance just under a small roof, then reach out right and climb into the opposing corner. Continue up the line to a layback finish and chains.

Starts on the right side of the small cave at a jug and finger pocket (left of the start of 'Pussycats'). Traverse right past a large sloper and block undercling to a rest beneath the start of 'Sardine'. Keep traversing right via sidepulls to drop down onto the large jug at the start of 'Japetus'.

Start: Follow Barrud Dur to the roof, then nip back right under this to a crack, which is climbed.