Routes in South Australia for selected grade

Climb the bolted crack above the Meditations belay and continue up and across Meditations when that route is reached.

Sit start on low twin undercling blobs, fire through good holds to large underclings. Monster throw to lip then a technical exit left and up slab. Classic!

Climbs the initial boulder problem start of Olympus, then breaks left through the main roof (instead of avoiding it - see 'Olympus') to join 'No Mustard On Withdrawal' at its crux. Continue up headwall then trend right to arete and climb to the Gladiator chain.

Starts as for Fred Radford then takes the Following a Feltch finish, ending at the chain of Gladiator.

The hardest route in Morialta. Boulder problem start through low roof above boulder (stick clip bolt shared with Olympus), 2m left of Pussy Cats. Join Following a Feltch through big roof then cut back right around arete via another bouldery sequence. Finish at loweroff shared with Kiss My Brain.

IP to the roof, then traverse left through Payneham, past North Terrace and head through the roof of Strolling/Crossroads direct

First line of bolts on your left as you enter the Hole. Stuart Williams with the vision and Sharik Walker with the send. Originally graded 29. V10 if you boulder it.

Filipino Path boulder then traverse leftwards to the chains on Come Out Fighting

Filipino to the 2nd good pocket, then left through sidepull to finish at the Shining Path padlocked chain.

Originally established by Matt Adams, short extension to the circus street chains later added by Sharik Walker. Takes the very overhanging pocket line just left of the marked Stugang start.

Stugang Extension past the hard gaston move, finishing on the Circus Street jug.

Stugang Extension into the finish of 'Wormhole'.

Start up Scartrek, then finish up Diplomacy at the shotholes.

Sit-start on undercling/pocket between Stugang Willich and Diplomacy (currently has a chalked S below). Head left through right-hand hold to gain a good left-hand undercling. Move up through a right-hand crimp to gain the first pocket on Scartrek with left-hand and finish as for this route. If you cross under to Scartrek pocket and finish up Stugang take 9. Three stars FA Trent Searcy 2021.

Start as for Diplomacy and head left into Scartrek to finish.

aka the start to The Wormhole Search. Just left of Diplomacy gain reasonable sidepull (RH in Diplomacy pocket) then gaston awkward pocket to press up and left into thinner 3-finger (often wet). Lunge for the jammed block in roof, then Diplomacy jugs.

Ultra Pleasure Vibe to the Circus Street jug.

Climb the 'Scartrek' boulder problem. Just shy of the Stugang shotholes, move into a big undercling and then grab the Stugang 'Extension' gaston hold with your LH (as a sidepull). Perform the biggest drive-by in the world and gain the 'Circus Street' traverse line. Finish as for 'Stugang Extension' ie. take a rope! Probably 30.

Start: As for 'Scartrek'.

A variation on UPV. Instead of starting as for Scartrek, start as for Diplomacy. At the 'blob', gain big undercling and punch out to the sloper. Reach into the Stugang Ext gaston hold as a sidepull, then dyno for the Circus Str jug. Finish as for 'Stugang Extension'.

Start as for Scartrek into Diplomacy but head right into big undercling then out to sloper and Circus Street horizontal.

aka. 'Dr Strike' 'Extension'. 'Dr Strike' to the chain, then link into Nirvaoxyne finish.

Strike Circus to the chains at the cave entrance.

Stugang Ext to the Circus Street jug, then reverse Strike-Circus into Gorgeous Guys and finish as for that route.

Alternative name for SGF. Not an independent problem. Description was as for NILF.

Starts under main roof on reasonable undercling (RH) and poorer undercling (LH). A very powerful 5-move problem. Pop LH to intermediate ‘breadloaf’ pinch, then big move out to the pocket on the lip (LH again) – catch the breadloaf as an intermediate (RH) – then up to jug in the Aftertaste traverse line and finish as for CHinese Nuggets. V8 as a crouchstart but take 9 points if you start seated on the lower holds.

Start as for 'Twist & Shout' but keep traversing right across slopers then up into the good undercling. Work your feet out, then head up and out (through blade jug) to the finish sloper of Twist and Shout.

Start on the jug under the overhang. Make a move up and then traverse right on low edges and continue as per Pogger.

Start 'Very Low Traverse' into 'Bicep Buster' and finish as per route.

Climb all of Black Hole, then back out via Nightmoves finish. 28-30 move marathon.

Start matched on BDTH undercling. Break up & right to flat slopey edge, then right gain into gaston press. Push up into bad undercling and cross LH to the good dish of Nightmoves. Finish in the black hole up and right. A unique sequence for this cave.

WYLRO to the 2nd to last move (flat RH edge) then TAC crux move into Are You Feeling Lucky.

History’s cloudy but first bolted in early 2000’s with home made hangers. Recently re equiped. Climb easy face to traverse line. Move around bulge through a tricky clip to chockstone under final roof. Thin holds gain the slab above to lower off anchor.

1 historic hanger left on route but not needed for line. First accent was to original double hangers on the lip of the roof but since extended above head wall for a better finish.

Same start as for Redemption. At the end of horizontal traverse head directly up through marginal holds before mantling over roof. Finish at Redemption anchor.

The obvious continuation of Lust that will have you burning for days. As for Lust to its final bolt then punch left to the hanging arete and blast up the outrageously steep headwall, don't drop the mantle!

The snake shaped line linking ‘Top Shelf Material’ into ‘Emphysema’ finish. Climb TSM past it’s toilet bowl crux, then traverse left under roof to finish on ‘Emphysema’ crux to chains. 70+ moves through face, slabs, roofs and cut loose crux’s over 14 bolts. Extend last draw of Stalagmite and all slab traverse bolts. Unclip final 2 draw as your being lowered off to minimise drag when pulling the rope.

Climb 'Soul Surfer' into 'Popping Bubbles' and top out as for this route. Pumpfest!

Sit start as for Bandersnatch, then head right past a small pocket to join the start of Breaking the Glass, then climb all of that problem to top out.

Direct line starting off sidepulls and surmounting the slab via small crimpers.

Sit Start On lowest breakline at the large black streak. Move up and right to higher breakline and follow it to the arete to finish up 'Wristy Business'

Sit Start as for 'The Shrike' and link into 'Positive Aspects of Negative Thinking'

Crouched start with RH on biggest edge in the breakline and LH on furthest LH edge. Bust a big move RH to the slopey pocket, then a hard press into a crimp in the face up and left. Use a good LH edge left of the Ground Control exit then move into that problems mantle finish.

Sit start on RH arete pinch and left hand edge. Climb the arete direct and Mantle out.

Sit start on right hand side of boulder matched on obvious sloping dish. Traverse left and finish as for the stand start.

Stand start and gain the initial small ledge. From here head up the left hand side on tiny edges and smears. Once at the good sloper follow it back into the centre of the slab and top out. WARNING: This is a 10-12 metre highball. A fall anywhere above half way will lead to serious consequences.

Alternative description: Multiple low percentage move slab (10 metres) relying on very small crystals, smears and one and two finger crimps. Crux at approx 6m totally relies on an extremely bad left toe smear that may only stick 1 time out of ten if that. No positive handholds throughout this section mean that your feet could pop at any time. Getting to the seam is easy, getting past it to a LH sloper side pull on the left arête is approx V5/6 in slab money (meaning technical insecure feet). From the LH sidepull to the ‘ramp’ is the crux (6 moves and potentially V6 in its own right if your feet hang around long enough to undertake a hand move). Final 3m can be done direct or traverse right then up via a V0 mantle press. Landing is pretty good however the fall trajectory will probably have you falling leftwards into the adjacent boulder/fissure. For a link on top rope possibly a grade of 28 applies. Quite a bit harder than Grampians highballs of the same grade.

Starts matched on the lowest section of the curb. Climb the curb to the top. Top out.

Start underneath the prow matched on a good undercling. Crimp, pinch and slap your way to the very tip and top out.

Sit start matched on the monster jug on the right hand side of the boulder. Traverse left on an assortment of large to tiny sharp crimps. Top out on the left hand side of the boulder when the curved horizontal arete ends.

Extension to Whosville. Traverse the sloping arete to the top and mantle out.

Sit start as for 'Prison Break'. Make the first move for this problem and head right, on slopers and mantle out.

Sit start matched on obvious good edge right next to good undercling. Big throw to weird box edge pocket thing and side pulls and edges to finish on jug just up from finish jug of CBTS. 1st boulder into the There Will Be Blood project.

The stand start to the Blood project. Start at the large jug in the crack in the roof, big move to crimps and then to a pinch, huge roll through to an ironstone flake and then into a difficult sloper section followed by the headwall. Heels, toes and anything goes! Many new holds have been cleaned and added, in and around the line making for a path of lesser resistance. Still very enjoyable climbing!

Sit-start 1m left of God Save the Queen and make some hard moves through pinches and crimps to gain the crack, then break right to a blind two finger pocket then a pinch into Pinch De Resistancé holds finishing as the standard Angelina's.

Calm Before the Storm in it's entirety to the big opposing jugs. Then via good right hand edge cross into crux hold of God Save The Queen. Finish as per this climb.

Link up of God Save The Queen to rest jugs of Angelina's, then take the Bulldozed link into the finish of Trident.

Link up. Start God Save The Queen to good jugs of Angelina's, then take the Bulldozed link to the slopers of Punch Drunk and finish as for that.

Sit start on RH gaston and LH sidepull deeper and left from Pinch de Resistance. Move to pinch and into undercling, into the pinch of Pinch de Resistance as an undercling and link into Angelinas PHD via a series of sidepulls, pinches and slopers. Seriously good flows and good core tension throughout. Crag classic.

Sit start with 3 finger RH undercling and good LH edge/pinch. Move through two obvious pinches of GSTQ with LH, then up right to a 3 finger slopey crimp via crimp intermediate, cross into sloper and then bust for the two jugs and finish as for Angelinas PHD.

Pinch De Resistancé start, moving through pinches to a positive crimp rail. A wide RH gaston gains the Angelina’s PHD pocket with a good hold that sets you up for another RH gaston on marginal crimps. Match this face and then finish up Know Better Learn Fast.

Climb Angelina's to its rest, then take a LH gaston and cross to a good pocket. Span up into the Punch Drunk slopers and go left to the Trident rest. Finish up Trident.