Routes in Western Australia for selected grade

Start as per 'Fricticious' but continue rightwards in compression to topout instead of transitioning to the scoop.

Sit start with low left hand guppy and right handjam. Rad problem up atypically blocky granite. Scary due to landing.

Sit start on the bulge and up the arete to the horizontal break. Escape right to top out as with #3. Direct is still a project. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kNgo_J81jU&feature=youtu.be

Sit start matched on the flat rail on the left. Rad sequence with awesome features. Most of the difficulty is in the opening moves to gain the undercling. Has been toped out wedged between the fin and the face. (Andys original FA was done as a drop off, and the top out was added by Clinton Martinengo in 2016). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ma-CBohLw5g

Sit start on the poor crimps and low foot. Big throw to the arete and then follow the arete right and up. Second problem in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drTyjLhY7Ds

High-ish start on left hand edge and a right hand crimpy pinch.

Sit start, desperate to slab. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqRHTXd_WQ8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FK9MmnXPE4Q

Sit start with crimps. Shouldery sequence to gain the start of 'Freestyler'

Sit start under the slight belly in the rock. Head up to small dimple crimps.

Sit start and squeeze your way up the features to gain the two good sidepulls. First move is the crux https://vimeo.com/225080096

Squat start on underclings, explode up to jug pinch.

Stand start. Work your way up the arete with funky footwork and small crimps on the bulge.

Toe hook beta: https://vimeo.com/219173746

Heel hook beta: https://youtu.be/gHHdgVHfAkM

Same starting jug as 'Eyes on the Pies', but uses a series of gastons to climb directly up. Slightly sketchy top-out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxyN0rOWyG8

Start on the flake - trend right to right hand sidepull. https://vimeo.com/183770584

Sit start the right arete with sloper and low right crimp.

Smack the lip, spin your way through the tensioney traverse and bust out the glorious finish of Body Battle

Low start matched on the chalky pinch holds (same start as 'Haystacks') and up the middle of the boulder with long move to crimp, avoid trending too far left into 'Haystacks'

Sit start with good blocky right hand and left hand undercling. Paste feet on the fin then powerful moves and up to topout to the right. https://youtu.be/8jyx4KfHrUg?t=173

Big and proud! Stand start with hight right hand and low left sidepull, then up the obvious feature. Sit might go - looks bulk hard. https://vimeo.com/298400655

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/some-new-lines/

Savage Crimpy Traverse. Sit start V-Juice and traverse right to finish up jugs.

Julz

Gavin C

Sit Start of V-juice into Mr Bump. Powerful and Technical.

Originally graded v9/10 by the FAer but alternative beta has been found which might make it slightly easier.

Gareth W

Liam D

Julz

Sit start. Blast up and right. Fucking hard.

Mitch W

Sit start right hand in the left most of the two pockets and left hand small crimp. Big move to the lip.

Robin (Last problem in the video)

A free version of Learning to Fly (though the exact line goes more straight up than LTF)

Logan's description in 2011:

"Finally freed the direct line of bolts Richard kindly put in straightening out Learning to Fly 23 (A0) on the back wall of Mountain Quarry. Has a pretty hard boulder prob at the start (where the A0 move is on LTF) and then another hard boulder at about 3/4 height where the line has been punched straight up over a triangle feature instead of traversing way around right. Hard to grade since its really just two seperate problems which felt about V6/7/8ish? each to me. Be good to hear some comments from others who have tried it."

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/05/unchipped-route-in-perths-big-chip-and.html

WARNING: Same issues surrounding rockfall as the rest of this section of wall (I believe this has lost at least one bolt since the FA)

Logan's description:

"Got the project up the middle of Skywalker wall yesterday (7/3/2011). It was chipped and equipped by Mark Wilson and i got his permission to do it. It starts left of skywalker and goes up the thin face to where the corner block of skywalker used to be. It then goes through the overlap and finishes up premature evacuation. It is awsome technical fingery climbing and a full 30m. Gives your forearms a good pump. Needs some others to attempt it to give an idea of grade as i am not too sure. Could be 28 or 29 but i am leaning towards 29.:

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/03/death-star-29-mountain-quarry-perth.html

Visioned by Gerard Chipper in the 90’s? Equipped by Jarrod May in 2003. FA Jarrod May 2003. Once described as ‘looking like a pile of horse cum, but actually climbs really nice’

Cardio Funk into Sweet Pea Link Up

https://youtu.be/VrKDYfNDYus

**The right hand hold at 1:41 in the video has now broken off. The line still goes though.

Adds a couple of hard cool moves to another Woody classic. Big rock ledge below is out.

Steep Compression.

Start on the two pinches with feet on the kicker then out compressing the prow. Awesome and unique for Perth! http://vimeo.com/28534112

Park on the side of the road. Up the hill trending leftish for about 10-15 minutes to the cliff face. On the left side.

-32.1350370, 116.0700440

Probably unclimbable these days.

Stand start. Make your way up the Aretes to a desperate top out. https://vimeo.com/248145245

Tall and proud. https://vimeo.com/324435910

Awesome compression line starting low on jug and sloper. Squeeze up andd exit left through scoop.

Sit start in the crack. Trend right from the crack. Rad sequence.

Andy

Up obvious amphitheatre/groove. Technical highball slab with a massive dyno to finish. Classic. Easier the taller you are. https://vimeo.com/182053235 https://vimeo.com/233165991 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCy6TkelCc4

Sit start on creaky flake. Up and left to join the stand

The face, avoiding bridging with the back rock. Fun if climbed in the right spirit

Long moves to crimps

Sit start low with crimps. Up the overhanging face starting on good holds and to crimps. Shouldery and powerful climbing with a sketchy landing. Awesome! https://youtu.be/jj51LHD2UDg

Start on the weird hole then up to the slab. Morpho, scary.

Crack undercling then up face.

Steep horizontal crack.

Start on slopey pinches with feet low, then bust out to the lip while holding the banana-hammock. Starting with feet high earns you Pebbles Variant.

Andy

Lying down start as for 'The Cougar'. Out to the jug and straight up from there with a tricky mantle!

Matt

SDS right at the back of the roof (If you think you are in the right spot keep crawling under), compress the fridge feature for 2m then out to a slopey top out. Contrived line - climbed as a compression, using the 'crack only' is considered it's own line out the cave.

Julz

Start as for 'A Glass Cage of Emotion', then come out left through the scoops to gain the jug and top out as 'The Cougar, Right'. Starting at the scoop earns you the V6 midstart.

Instead of starting squeezing the boulder start as far under as you can (ends up just next to the start of A Glass Cage of Emotion) and traverse into the sit and you're away. Adds extra pump - maybe adds a grade to each of the potential exits.

Sit start. Up the highball arete avoiding escaping left.

Sit start in the back of the low roof matched at the low 'arch' feature. Out on good holds staying tight to avoid the dab. Absolutely magic! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2wDCBt5fzE

Sit start low on undercling. Compress and slap to the top.

Sit start on small edges. Right up the middle of the face on tiny crimps...Sketchy landing with the ledge.

Sit start with good RH pocket. Up arete.

Cool compression problem! Stand start squeezing on both sides of the block and compress your way to top. Start left hand on a positive edge around the middle of the prow and right hand on a dimple around the right side of the prow in line with the left edge.

Julz

Cool feature near the water on the right as you walk in. Sit start on the pockets then jump behind you to the slopey lip.

Sit start then up. Hard.

Start as 'The Deluxe', but instead of heading up the face on crimps come to the left face to some committing moves with pockets to finish.

Low start with left hand in the slopey dish and right hand on the lowest of the flakes. Perfect compression moves into a crimpy finish. One of the best in the South! https://vimeo.com/104841442

Start as for 'The 3 Star Boulder, loop back through 'La Petite Astuce' to finish up the far left face. One of the best lines on the boulder - making good use of most of the features! https://youtu.be/gu8YAlNXmyU

For the ending the obvious protruding rock feature underneath you is out for feet

Start on juggy undercling down low and move right before big moves at the lip. https://vimeo.com/104922569

Stand start on undercling on the left and cross up to good edge and out right to a jugged up topout. https://vimeo.com/156231039

Stand start on the right and follow the blocky features on the lip of the roof. Compress your way to a big cut loose move near the end and transition to the face, do a couple easier moves up and rightish to gain the flat finishing jug up high.

A drop off and a tad contrived - but awesome powerful movement on good holds.

Sit start with right hand in good slot. Powerful move to gain the blocky jugs and quest up the face to topout.

Start on the far left of the boulder around the corner from Orange and traverse all the way to the start of A Crab Called Wanda. Really pumpy!

Nasty finger crack.

Sit start on good holds. Up through the slab slightly right of the black streak with small slopey holds trending right. https://youtu.be/quL16U84OFM?t=190

Start on the two crimp slots down low, and squeeze your way up the bulge to gain the jug shared with "Boomerang left". Climbs like a gem! Beware the uneven landing and swing out - pads (3+) and spotter(s) advised.

0:40 @ https://vimeo.com/680229826

Stand start in the break. Follow the good slots, then left and up towards the jug shared with "Unemployed". Tension required!

Highball. Sit start on low flake then up slopey holds avoiding the left boulder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXtav9Ae_I0

Sit start on crimps in left side of black streak, head up to the right.

Gaston Beta: https://youtu.be/zAKLD9-7Ryo?t=69

Long Beta: https://youtu.be/YolXXk1Cvv0?t=145

Sit start on rail and squeeze your way up the bulge to the crimp rail. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAKLD9-7Ryo

Highball arete. Awesome feature. Straight up using the arete and the right face. https://vimeo.com/198180131

Sit start on flakes then up the bulge. Stand start is V6. https://vimeo.com/28765825

Sit start on the crimps under the arete. Steep and thin...

Steep classic line. Short bouldery section leads to break, then up through the steep via a powerful sequence to gain big holds, then long moves to the chains.

Start with left hand undercling, right hand sidepull. Powerful and technical moves through the double prow. Highly visible so keep chalk to a minimum and respect the area (clean tick marks, rubbish...) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbtxuyRHWUA

Sit start on obvious inward facing rail on the right on the cave. Climb up good holds to a hard move through the crimps to gain the undercling jug. So good. the flat jug on the left (obvious crack dividing it from the roof forming a jug) is out, using it nets you V4 https://youtu.be/TjXbWMluEkM?t=210

Straight out from the back of the cave though edge system to gain a good pinch. Classic cross over move at the 2/3 mark from a right hand pinch to a good left hand pocket. https://youtu.be/TjXbWMluEkM?t=311

Start on the back rail then work your way out on roof edges to gain good holds. Big right hand bump from a jug towards the end. Pre-break beta: https://youtu.be/4OZTHPyzWns?t=7m12s

• A key jug has broken off. The climb has been re-opened in mid 2022 without this hold and goes at around solid V8 now. Post-break beta: Julz

Stand start on pockets and up the face. Couple edges and big moves! https://vimeo.com/286725327 @12:40

Sit start with left hand on the slanted pocket and right-hand on the arete. Slap up the right arete with classic moves- dodgy landing.

Stand start with jug. Long moves up the headwall.

Start on the left with jugs - easy moves right to a hard sequence to get out of the roof and topout. https://youtu.be/4OZTHPyzWns?t=6m8s

Cave on the corner opposite the lookout. Looks like there's a few lines that have been done. Names? grades?

Sit start with good rail. Up through fragile roof holds, spin feet first to gain jugs and then a committing but easy top out over the disconcerting drop!

Sit start at the base of the cave. Climb up the overhanging face avoiding coming out to the slopey lip early. Up using series of edges and pockets, then hard moves to gain the slopers and top out. https://youtu.be/sx1kxFwwJDE

Sit start at the base of the slanted prow on good holds. This line diverges from 'Pockets, Heels, Slopes - Low' by coming out to the slopey lip early rather than staying under the cave.

https://vimeo.com/268522102

Start deep in the roof. Follow the jamming obvious crack out.

The left hand line. Looks mega!

Sit start low in the back of the cave. Beautiful flowing sequence through the roof leads to a punchy crux at the lip.

https://youtu.be/Vvo8qi93MCU

Same rad start, but jag left after the roof for a balls-hard compression top-out, potentially a bad fall

Sds low in the roof. Link horrendously tensiony lower section through slots then slopey edges into the start of Skippy MS. https://youtu.be/ux8BU39L3NI

Start as for 'Through The Looking Glass' to the start of 'rage cage', then transition around and follow the juggy spine that runs along the lowest part of the roof, and finish on the first break of the face.

https://youtu.be/Atw5Ix07zkw?t=263