A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1.
South-West cluster
34 in Area
- 1.1. Butt Face Boulder 7 in Boulder
- 1.2. Moby Dick Boulder 14 in Boulder
- 1.3. Fascination Boulder 11 in Boulder
- 1.4. North of South West 2 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. South-West cluster 34 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -29.842433, 151.741198
description
After the building turn right and drive carefully straight south
access issues
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
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1.1. Butt Face Boulder 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -29.842547, 151.741380
description
Broken/split boulder featured with cracks on the western side of Moby Dick boulder.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Butt Crack
Sit Start. Into crack and up. | V1 | 2m | |||||
| 2 |
SW5
Mantle | V0 | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ Organ Donor
Sit Start. Hug boulder using obviious underclings and side-pulls and work your way up awkwardly using laybacks and toe/heel jams to SW5 matle features. | V3 | 2m | |||||
| 4 |
Cunningham Jnr.
Sit start and mantle onto start holds. Up over buldge on crimps. | V0 | 2m | |||||
| 5 |
★ SJW
Start at flake as for OHC but mantle onto it and up | V1 | ||||||
| 6 |
★★ Opera House Crack
Sit start layback off large flake. Traverse Left into base of chimney crack. Up crack to top. | V1 | 3m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 |
★ On a Pedestal
Sit start the leaning face off the sloping block and mantle direct. Dodgy landing | V0 | 2m | |||||
1.2. Moby Dick Boulder 14 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -29.842580, 151.741440
description
The largest obvious boulder in the southwest cluster which from the east side looks vaguely like a sperm whale.
approach
Drive in past the toilets, and head right into the paddock.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Moby Dick Traverse
Traverse crack from far right until left arete. | V0 | 10m | |||||
| 2 | ★★★ Blow Hole Ascension | V6 | 6m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Whale Scale
Glued on hold near top. | V5 | 5m | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ MDT Drop
MDT into Thirst Drop? Crux is the transition into the chimney, seems the natural finish to MDT, great boulder! | V0 | 13m | |||||
| 5 |
★ B's Knees
Wall on right side of Thirst Drop? chimney. Stand start inching your way to the break if you can't reach it from the ground (no standing on pebbles). Mantle the break and topout via the mossy slab and crack for the tick, don't fall here! | V0+ | 4m | |||||
| 6 |
★★ MDT extension
At the end of the traverse, set yourself and grab the finger jug above the traverse line on the arete, then mantle to top! | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Thirst Drop?
Sit start for the tick. Up the chimney (MDB descent route), topout via the tail-stem chockstone. | V0 | 4m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 8 |
★ Whale Tale
Awkward bulge | V1 | ||||||
| 9 |
★★ SW16 Surly Steve and the finger bang
Finger bang surly Steve in his rocky eyeballs to glory. SDS with two shallow monos wide apart, up to crescent. | V1/2 | 3m | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Surly Steve Bites Back
Pop to the high crimp, grin through the pain, and punch straight up the face to glory FA: Tim Nicholson, 9 Apr 2022 | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 11 |
★★★ MDB Craic
Sit start and work your way up the offwidth on the Free Willy side of MDB, classic! | V0+ | 3m | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Porth Ysgo
Great moves to mantle or rock up onto the flat jug. Find a way to top out without touching the block behind you FA: Tim Nicholson, 9 Apr 2022 | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 13 |
SW6 - Missing dorsal
Up the side of the whale | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Free Willy
Sit start low and left on obvious jug, move up and right through features to pocket. Continue right into crimps in dish, big moves up and right then mantle. Probably done a while ago. FA: Alan Ezzy | V6/7 | 4m | |||||
1.3. Fascination Boulder 11 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -29.842667, 151.740892
description
S11-S15 are around the back of the boulder use original black and white toppo until there's photos and descriptions, not nearly as good as the front side of the bloc as you approach it from MDB.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ SW9 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Fascination
A Font like experience? Right of SW9, start around the "India" feature, uppity and mantle! | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
★ SW10
Start at the highish crimp/flake about a metre right of Fascination, taking care not to break it at certain angles. Trend rightward via not as good holds, then up to rockover and mantle on the low angle slab. Felt hard for the grade. | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 4 |
★★ SW-19-Traversee
Starting hand holds as for SW9, feet sans base-plate, traverse right via edges and crimps to finito via SW10. A soft touch? | V1/2 | 5m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Fascination Traverse
Start on side-pulls on far end of slab right of SW10, traverse left and finish up Fascination. | V2 | 5m | |||||
| 6 |
★★ SW-9-Traverse
Start as for Fascination Traverse but continue traversee left to finish up SW9. | V2/3 | 6m | |||||
| 7 | ★ SW11 | V0 | ||||||
| 8 | ★ SW12 | V0 | ||||||
| 9 | SW13 | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 10 | SW14 | V0 | 3m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 11 | SW15 | V0 | 3m | |||||
1.4. North of South West 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -29.842288, 151.741434
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ SW7
Nice holds, bad landing | V1 | ||||
| 2 | SW8 | V3 | ||||
