Oceania Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Oceania 119,252 routes in Region

4 1 3 5 2

1 Australia 2 Aotearoa / New Zealand 3 Melanesia 4 Micronesia 5 Polynesia

Summary:

J

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Seasonality

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -3.649215, -0.023521

1.1. Australia 97,277 routes in Region

4 5 7 9 6 3 8 2 1

1 Victoria 2 New South Wales and ACT 3 Western Australia 4 Queensland 5 South Australia 6 Northern Territory 7 Tasmania 8 Norfolk Island 9 Christmas Island

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -1.793767, 137.682251

summary

A continent of crags, diverse in terms of rock types and climbing styles. Explore the sheer endless climbing opportunities here on the world's largest rock climbing and bouldering platform.

description

I love a sunburnt country, A land of sweeping plains,

Of ragged mountain ranges, Of droughts and flooding rains.

I love her far horizons, I love her jewel-sea,

Her beauty and her terror – The wide brown land for me!

theCrag and Traditional Custodians

In the spirit of reconciliation theCrag acknowledges the Traditional Custodians of country throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their elders past, present and emerging and extend that respect to all Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples today.

First Nations Information

Australia is made up of more than 250 different and distinct Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander groups, each with their own culture, language, beliefs and practices. Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples are the first peoples of Australia, with current research revealing that this continent has been occupied for more than 60,000 years prior to colonisation. They are the world’s oldest surviving culture; cultures that continue to be expressed in dynamic and contemporary ways.

1.1.1. Victoria 21,067 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -36.648855, 145.526126

1.1.2. New South Wales and ACT 40,786 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -32.806142, 150.150172

access issues

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

1.1.3. Western Australia 7,340 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -23.832558, 120.633381

1.1.4. Queensland 13,001 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -0.255930, 146.290993

description

Queensland. While not offering the world class crags such as Blue Mountains in NSW or Grampians in Victoria, what it lacks in volume it makes up for in variety. We have more varied rock types and styles within a day trip of Brisbane than any other capital city can boast.

history

Old guides for the region can be found here:

https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1P1Ut0VPUQw1CELlOCcQ5OGDjzXBtZHXa

1.1.5. South Australia 5,087 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -0.624324, 136.842221

description

South Australia has a rich history of rockclimbing. The main text cited and used for routes in Areas 4 to 9 is:

Badenoch, P.R. and Adams, L.M., 2017, Rockclimbing around Adelaide, Ed. 2.

For current South Australian climbing news: http://climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/

1.1.6. Northern Territory 1,082 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -19.280702, 133.508429

1.1.7. Tasmania 8,896 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -1.231106, 146.180058

access issues

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

ethic

Crag Stewards

Many Tasmanian climbing areas have Stewards assigned as a point of contact for safety or access concerns.

For more details and the list of Steward emails please visit: http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Introduction+to+Tasmanian+Climbing

Statewide Ethics

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted​

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday

https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

1.1.8. Norfolk Island 0 routes in Region

1.1.9. Christmas Island 18 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Deep water soloing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -10.485634, 105.632908

1.2. Aotearoa / New Zealand 21,432 routes in Region

1 2

1 Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island 2 Te Waipounamu / The South Island

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -40.571369, 172.606089

description

There is lots of great climbing and bouldering right across New Zealand.

1.2.1. Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island 5,944 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -37.930964, 175.507994

1.2.2. Te Waipounamu / The South Island 15,488 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -43.556077, 170.568000

1.3. Melanesia 355 routes in Region

4 5 7 1 2

1 Fiji 2 Nouvelle-Calédonie 4 Papua New Guinea 5 Solomon Islands 7 Vanuatu

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -10.516399, 161.483990

1.3.1. Fiji 2 routes in Region

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: -17.879144, 176.732947

description

The Fijian mainland and its surrounding islands are host to a small number of climbing locations (mainly bouldering), the rock here is not great and conditions sweaty, but not to deter those who are willing.

1.3.2. Nouvelle-Calédonie 172 routes in Region

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -20.524792, 164.485161

description

Climbing is relatively new to New Caledonia. With the island being one big 500km long mountain range and a bunch of keen French climbers now resident here, this will no doubt be a space to watch for Aussies wanting an island climbing holiday in the future.

The main area is the limestone at Koumac on the West Coast in the far north of the island with the beautiful Grottes de Koumac and Roches De Notre Dame. Although Hieghene on the north end of the notrth end of the stunning east coast promises a wonderland with a vast amount of limestone cast towers and faces not unlike parts of Thailand.

http://vertikaledonie.com/

1.3.3. South Pacific 86 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

summary

Big orange walls with an atmospheric feel.

access issues

Easy if you have a private yacht

approach

By sea

where to stay

In a resort

ethic

If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for lots of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision. Avoid damaging any vegetation in this area. No dogs or camping.

1.3.4. Papua New Guinea 1 route in Region

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -4.650015, 149.912479

description

Very little climbing appears to have been done in recent times. Heaps of opportunity here for the adventurous and dedicated. Watch this space...

access issues

Access must be arranged with local landowners as 90+% of land is customary and some cliff tops or caves at base of cliffs are burial grounds so completely off limits. Expect to pay compensation for all access

where to stay

Expensive hotels in the cities. Some guest houses in towns, anything else should be arranged through a local guide

ethic

No bolts yet

history

A guide for Port Moresby was published in the 70's by Keith Ross and Andrew Webb. At least half the Hindenburg wall was climbed by speleologists. There has been climbing in the past few decades but nothing seems to have been recorded.

1.3.5. Solomon Islands 0 routes in Region

1.3.6. Piccadilly rainforest 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

Spicy and fun trad climbing

approach

60 metre rappel fixed line. bring ascenders!!

1.3.7. Vanuatu 0 routes in Region

1.3.8. Telopea 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

Premium quality lines

description

Guaranteed good time

approach

Rappel from the top or approach from the bottom of the cliffs. Access to Telopea is via short traversing pitch from an elevated ledge of ferns. After rounding the first arétte you will find two bolts, the belay for Onward and Upward. To access the rest of the routes, follow the fixed ropes around a second arette to a larger ledge.

where to stay

On board the ships prow

ethic

Minimal impact

1.3.9. Coral Sea 83 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

summary

If you know you know

1.4. Micronesia 1 route in Region

6 1 3 4 7 2 5

1 Guam 2 Kiribati 3 Marshall Islands 4 Federated States of Micronesia 5 Nauru 6 Northern Mariana Islands 7 Palau

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 6.253902, 158.571616

1.4.1. Guam 0 routes in Region

1.4.2. Kiribati 0 routes in Region

1.4.3. Marshall Islands 0 routes in Region

1.4.4. Federated States of Micronesia 1 route in Region

Summary:

Lat / Long: 5.554991, 149.995282

1.4.5. Nauru 0 routes in Region

1.4.6. Northern Mariana Islands 0 routes in Region

1.4.7. Palau 0 routes in Region

1.5. Polynesia 187 routes in Region

9 7 3 1 10 6 2 4 8 5

1 American Samoa 2 Cook Islands 3 French Polynesia 4 Niue 5 Pitcairn 6 Samoa 7 Tokelau 8 Tonga 9 Tuvalu 10 Wallis and Futuna Islands

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -15.842199, -152.234938

1.5.1. American Samoa 0 routes in Region

1.5.2. Cook Islands 3 routes in Region

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -15.595814, -162.258717

1.5.3. French Polynesia 102 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -12.282885, -144.218841

description

The weather conditions, the poor quality of the rock, and the remoteness of mountaineering techniques in the land of surf have left many of these remote island peaks unclimbed.

French Polynesia (/ˈfrɛntʃ pɒlɪˈniːʒə/ (About this soundlisten); French: Polynésie française [pɔlinezi fʁɑ̃sɛz]; Tahitian: Pōrīnetia Farāni) is an overseas collectivity of the French Republic and its sole overseas country. It is composed of 118 geographically dispersed islands and atolls stretching over an expanse of more than 2,000 kilometres (1,200 mi) in the South Pacific Ocean. Its total land area is 4,167 square kilometres (1,609 sq mi). Source Wikipedia

1.5.4. Niue 0 routes in Region

1.5.5. Pitcairn 0 routes in Region

1.5.6. Samoa 0 routes in Region

1.5.7. Tokelau 0 routes in Region

1.5.8. Tonga 82 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -20.028950, -175.443063

summary

The Kingdom of Tonga, in the South Pacific ocean, consists of 169 islands, of which 36 are inhabited. The island of Eua has a rapidly growing sport climbing scene which began in 2016.

description

For more information on the climbing on Eua and guidebook, please visit http://tonganrock.org/

access issues

The majority of climbing is on the King’s estate and access is a privilege granted by the King’s Office, not a right. An access arrangement has been negotiated but could be withdrawn at any time by the King’s Office.

Before climbing on ‘Eua, all visitors must agree to the Disclaimer (http://tonganrock.azurewebsites.net/climbing/climbers-registration/) and pay a land management levy of T$20.

You must also agree to abide by the Climber’s Code of Conduct (http://www.tonganrock.org/climbing/climbers-code-of-conduct/).

approach

The beautiful island of ‘Eua is just a 10 minute flight or 3 hour ferry from Nuku’alofa, which itself is just 3 or 4 1/2 hours flight from Auckland or Sydney respectively. Alternatively, you can fly to Nuku’alofa from Fiji or Samoa.

where to stay

There are four main accommodation places:

• Ovava Tree Lodge has eight units, there is also a small area where camping may also be possible and you can use their kitchen for a fee.
• Hideaway Resort has around twelve rooms.
• Taina’s Place has bungalows and a campsite.
• Deep Resort which has four units.

ethic

All bolts are titanium 110mm x 10mm glue in P-style ring bolts. The resin used in 2016 and 2017 was Hilti HIT-HY 200 R.

1.5.9. Tuvalu 0 routes in Region

1.5.10. Wallis and Futuna Islands 0 routes in Region