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Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Europe 794,398 routes in Region

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.479899, 71.925640

1.1. Albania 262 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.114593, 20.210315

summary

Beautiful landscapes with infinite climbing potential that has yet to be explored.

description

The community in Albania is small and enthusiastic and tries to promote and finance their activities by organising an annual climbing festival in October. They maintain a website with general infos about sport climbing in the country at climbingalbania.com. At the time there is no guide book available, but they are in course of developing new crags and adding topos to 27crags, which helps in their financing.

Further information on Albanian rock climbing is available in an essay by John Ely from 2002 „Rock Climbing and Mountaineering in Albania: Photo Essay and Guide“.

access issues

Please contact Climbing Albania before bolting any new routes.

history

Sport climbing is a relatively young sport in Albania, kick started only around 2010 by the German Geoquest expedition, which involved local climbers to establish a bigwall route on Maja e Harapit in the North, as well as a centrally located crag at the Bovilla reservoir near Tirana.

1.1.1. North Albania 3 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.115218, 19.924747

1.1.2. Central Albania 135 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.260106, 20.013468

1.1.3. South Albania 124 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.390865, 20.219999

1.2. Andorra 550 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.544353, 1.600571

1.2.1. Sector Juberri 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.440947, 1.494993

1.2.2. Sant Martí de Nagol 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.474808, 1.493166

approach

Aparcar a la zona blava de la carretera nacional i pujar per l'esquerra de les barreres de contenció. Seguir la tertera dins del bosc fins a la paret.

1.2.3. La Margineda 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.484359, 1.487101

1.2.4. Riu d'Enclar 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.495462, 1.492460

description

Ideal for very hot days. You can get wet in the river.

approach

1.2.5. Solà d’Enclar 76 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.501584, 1.503035

description

1.2.6. Pilar Mingo 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.503392, 1.506475

access issues

approach

S'hi pot accedir de 2 maneres:

1.Aparcar al cementiri de Santa Coloma i seguir el camí que porta a les vies d'escalada del Solà d'Enclar. Continuar fins passar el sector Santa Coloma fins arribar a una zona on el camí és força vertical i trencadís. Girar a esquerra sortint del camí just abans de trobar una cadena fixada a la roca. Seguir el camí no gaire marcat que puja per la vall. *Caminar 50 metres. Hi han algunes marques vermelles que indiquen el camí. La paret del pilar Mingo és a la dreta. La primera reunió és veu des del camí de pujada. La via amb les seves variants són una mica més a baix.

2.Caminar fins al final del camí del Rec del Solà. Seguir caminant pel camí que porta a les vies d'escalada del Solà d'Enclar. Un cop passada una cadena fixada a una gran roca (aquesta cadena és l'última) girar a la dreta i pujar pel camí trencadís. Llavors seguir les mateixes indicacions que les de l'altra aproximació a partit de *.

1.2.7. Piràmide 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.505363, 1.504916

approach

1.2.8. Llastra de l’Obac 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.502450, 1.522706

1.2.9. Sant Antoni de la Grella 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.528052, 1.520605

1.2.10. Erts 82 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.557804, 1.494673

1.2.11. Roc dels Palinquerons 0 routes in Crag

description

Quatre o cinc vies per a nens

1.2.12. La Pastisseria 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.564016, 1.531286

approach

1.2.13. Encodina 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.624643, 1.523481

description

La zona d’escalada del sector d’Encodina es troba a uns 2,5 km abans de l’estació d’Ordino Arcalís, des d’Andorra la Vella.

Compta amb 13 vies d’escalada i la seva dificultat és de 4+ a 6c+ (mitjana-alta). És una zona d’escalada d’alta muntanya (1.850 metres d’altitud), de roca de calcoesquist amb una mica de liquen. Està orientada al nord-oest i el tipus d’escalada és de placa i dues grans fissures. A causa de la seva exposició i alçada, es recomana fer-hi escalada en època primaveral i estival.

Hi un cartell al peu de cada via amb el seu grau.

approach

1.2.14. Creusans 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.633440, 1.477276

1.2.15. Arcalís 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.623661, 1.485928

1.2.16. La Birreria 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.512448, 1.552314

approach

1.2.17. Roc de la Guilla 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.514297, 1.559030

approach

1.2.18. Agulles d’Engolasters 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.515911, 1.573308

description

Ambient de muntanya amb magnífica vista de la vall d'Andorra. Totes les vies estan reequipades amb parabolt M10 per la FAM, l'agost de 1998.

approach

1.2.19. Fissuròmetre 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.517828, 1.578849

1.2.20. Boulder de Coll Jovell 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.510377, 1.569162

1.2.21. El Carcamanyà 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.523527, 1.563244

1.2.22. Prohibit 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.527931, 1.564317

approach

1.2.23. L'Oral Superior PASSIÓ VERTICAL 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.528159, 1.566593

approach

10 minutos

1.2.24. l'Oral 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.527991, 1.567211

1.2.25. Vall de les Agols 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.502541, 1.602785

1.2.26. Clots Fondos 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.554870, 1.622917

description

Vies equipades amb parabolts. Totes amb reunió de cadena + anella.

-Zona molt tranquil•la i salvatge -Bon peu de via -Ideal per al mesos d'estiu -Orientació N-NE -Alt. 2.250 mts

approach

1.2.27. Meritxell 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.555423, 1.585747

approach

1.2.28. Riu Urina 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.559263, 1.583917

description

Es troba a 1.150 metres d’altura amb orientació sud-est. Les vies estan equipades amb químics.

access issues

Warning: next to the waterfall it is easy for stones and rocks to fall!

approach

1.2.29. Mur Cascada de Les Moles 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.572227, 1.615354

summary

Canillo, 30 November 2020.- The Comú de Canillo has reopened to the public the climbing wall of the Cascada de Moles, after a repair that has lasted approximately two months.

description

The climbing wall of The Cascada de Moles is open to all audiences every day of the week except when the weather conditions do not allow it.

history

The facility was built in 1992

1.2.30. Roc dels Coms 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.622356, 1.637263

description

Sector d'alta muntanya

approach

30 minuts fins al refugi dels Coms de Jan i 30 minuts més fins a peu de vies

1.2.31. Juclar 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.607602, 1.722635

1.2.32. Escola, Caos i Totem 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.524421, 1.735887

summary

Sector a 2300m d'altura. Ideal per a dies calorosos. Algunes vies tenen molt de liquen.

approach

1.2.33. Pic de Ríbuls 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.509891, 1.674486

1.2.34. Pic de l'Esquella 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.519411, 1.744037

1.2.35. Pic Negre d'Envalira 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.519642, 1.725090

summary

Pic Negre d'Envalira

description

Sector con algunas vías clásicas para subir el Pic Negre d'Envalira

access issues

En invierno es una estación de esquí

approach

Se accede por una pista que sale justo donde hay las taquillas de la estación de esquí. Siguiendo las pilonas del telesilla, veremos rápidamente un canchal que nos lleva a pie de via. Se ven las chapas.

1.3. Austria 33,376 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.625839, 13.341824

summary

Endless crags in the Eastern alps and the foothills of the alps offer climbing for everyone in every season.

description

Crags and areas are listed and managed according to the Alpine Club classification of the Eastern Alps (see also: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpine_Club_classification_of_the_Eastern_Alps).

A map of areas can also be found here: http://www.bergalbum.de/uebersichtskarte_ostalpen.htm

1.3.1. West 13,879 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.172015, 11.166882

summary

Western Austria represents the 2 provinces Tyrol and Vorarlberg, a very mountainous region with endless climbing possibilities and excellent infrastructure.

description

A substantial part of the Eastern Alps is located in Vorarlberg and Tyrol. From a climbers perspective it is probably hard to find an area with more variety and options on such a small area. World class bouldering areas can be found next to world class sport climbing areas, multi-pitch climbs line alpine peaks and cliffs and there is everything, from family friendly and easy climbing to lines at the top of the grade range.

With Innsbruck as its biggest town and climbing mecca Western Austria is a must visit for every climber.

Topos and climbing information for some areas in Tyrol can also be found here: at http://www.climbers-paradise.com

1.3.2. Mitte-Nord 5,192 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.034609, 13.707346

1.3.3. Mitte-Süd 2,847 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.832213, 13.782726

1.3.4. Ost 11,458 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.784049, 15.538761

description

A lot of climbing is happening in and around Vienna. Within a 2 hours radius you will find mostly limestone crags (some gneiss also can be found in the danube region of Wachau) offering everything from slabs to overhangs, short to long climbs, remote to busy crags, single to multi pitch and so on...

Main crags are Peilstein, Hohe Wand, Höllental and many many more...

Information Sources / Topo Guides:

If the weather is bad Vienna offers a lot of indoor climbing possibilities (just google for climbing gym vienna...) - currently around 10 major climbing gyms exist in and around the city.

1.4. Belarus 0 routes in Region

1.4.1. Minsk 0 routes in Crag

1.4.2. Скалодром "Вершина" 0 routes in Gym

description

1.4.3. Скалодром 0 routes in Gym

description

1.4.4. RCTKUM 0 routes in Gym

summary

There are not too expensive accommodation. Webpage (Russian) it is easy to translate by any online tool http://rctkum.by/fullservice/Turbaza It can help you to rent a room for visiting Minsk.

description

This is the first indoor gym in Minsk. For a long time it was the only one place where national climbing championship took place. But now it is forgotten. By the way, for now it is the cheapest gym in Minsk. It has all facilities for indoor climbing. The heigh of walls is 5 meters. There are walls with different angles (from vertical to roofs). Unfortunately gym has lost attractiveness for most of local climbers. But for thuse who need a place for systematicaly treaning - it is still the one of the best variants.

There are some routes on Climbzilla https://web.climbzilla.tk/halls/178/routes https://web.climbzilla.tk/halls/1243/routes

approach

It is easy from National airport Minsk via taksi (about 25 Euros). The address is Minsk, Lukyanovich str., 18.

1.4.5. Skalodrom Trapeciya 0 routes in Gym

description

1.4.6. Vitebsk Climbing 0 routes in Gym

description

1.4.7. Byk 0 routes in Gym

description

1.4.8. Спортзал школы 23 0 routes in Gym

1.4.9. Plato 0 routes in Gym

description

300 square meters of bouldering wall, MoonBoard,comfortable warm-up area with all needed equipment, locker rooms with showers, comfortable resting area. Dog-friendly

https://plato.by/

approach

Адрес:

Минск, ул. Куйбышева 22 Вход через 6 корпус

1.5. Belgium 6,251 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.516063, 4.449482

access issues

1.5.1. Wallonie picarde & Namur 3,186 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.298406, 4.119434

1.5.2. Liège 2,357 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.485413, 5.662153

history

1.5.3. Luxembourg 608 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.979531, 5.477518

1.5.4. Brabant & Brussel 51 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.789950, 4.540119

1.5.5. Vlaanderen 49 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 51.098980, 4.198856

1.6. Bosnia and Herzegovina 1,288 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.846063, 17.677008

description

Climbing is slowly recovering in this country. Halted for about a decade by the war, a new generation of climbers has been opening crags and bolting routes.

This resulted in the publication of the magnificent guidebook (see Guidebook Section) which is not only a great guide to all crags in the country, but also a wonderful tourist guide.

access issues

Most Bosnia and Herzegovina pages are unavailable at this time but should be restored soon.

1.6.1. Rest of BH 1,057 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.057699, 17.567145

access issues

Bosnia and Herzegovina pages are unavailable at this time.

1.6.2. Nahorevo 53 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 43.906792, 18.420639

description

Cliff seen off across the valley from the road to Skakavac, after passing Muharemovic Restaurant. A tall limestone wall split by a very steep roof.

approach

From the village of Nahorevo (43.910174, 18.410058), turn right (downhill) on a little street across from the shop and cross a little bridge. Continue straight uphill, then take the second left, a hairpin turn, up a very steep paved hill. Continue up the dirt road through farms to the parking by a huge boulder and a stream (43.910395, 18.422288). Continue on foot across the stream, past a metal gate. Walk 10 minutes down the dirt road, then turn left uphill to the cliff.

1.6.3. Blagaj 114 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.253077, 17.918512

summary

Varied climbing area with over 200 routes developed by locals.

description

Varied climbing area with over 200 routes developed by locals.

To help support maintenance and access consider donating through the orange boxes near the Eco Center.

approach

Start from the Eco Center in Blagaj and follow signs.

1.6.4. Pecka 64 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.326447, 16.892287

summary

A well developed area with pocket climbs.

description

A well developed area with pocket climbs and various other styles between.

Most of the crags are in the sun all day and exposed if it's windy.

The rock is overall good quality throughout the area.

access issues

Parking is on a farmer's land. Please respect the area and remove all trash and waste when you leave.

1.7. Bulgaria 5,323 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.762920, 25.421573

description

Bulgaria is a country in South East Europe, with an area of 111,000 sq km, which offers climbing areas of all types:

  • bouldering,
  • sport climbing
  • traditional (up to 200 meter routes)
  • ice climbing (only in winter)
  • DWS.

Map of climbing areas (in Bulgarian) : http://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?smap=1 (also some topos)

Some area descriptions: http://climbing-in-bulgaria.blogspot.de/

1.7.1. Belogradtschik 1,107 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.540993, 22.734479

1.7.2. Bozhenitsa 170 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.996181, 23.828105

1.7.3. Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave 98 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.182818, 24.076106

summary

Big cave with two entrances, that has two big holes in it known as "God's eyes".

description

Big cave with many routes, bolting is safe but sparse, the cave goes up to 40m and there are a few climbs that go through the eyes. There is climbing for everyone from 4s to 9s. The cave is a fun playground, but could be intimidating if you are a beginner.

If you are coming here bring knee pads for the harder routes.

The cave seeps so wait a few days if you are to climb here after it has rained.

access issues

To ensure the safety of everyone, when climbing during the weekends, climbers are urged to avoid the sectors that are close to the path, namely: "Pop folk" (south entrance - left side), Nepobedim (middle part - right side), Kak shte gi stignem (middle part - left side), and El Choro (exit - right side). Instead use the sectors: Hip Hop (south entrance - right side), Black Metal (after the entrance - right side), Sever (exit - left side) - without the section with "Pchelichkata Maya", and Podarak (outside the cave).

approach

One of the easiest approaches ever, put the GPS coordinates and park at the south entrance of the crag.

(43.17479, 24.07461)

https://youtu.be/W_L5SaYFGzQ

where to stay

Camping at the entrance to the cave on the rolling green hills. There are a couple of shepards who move their animals through the area. They are nice and it is normal to offer them a gift or some Rakija (alcoholic spirits) and they will often give you some of their homemade cheese or milk. There is also a nearby alpine hut or you can stay in a guest house in Karlukovo.

Make sure to bring water and food with you at the crag. There are no toilets so clean up after yourselves.

ethic

Keep a low profile. Don't camp in the cave. Don't light fires in the cave, avoid climbing in the cave on weekends. No climbing between 6pm and 7am so you do not disturb the birds and local wild life. Do not bolt or draw on the rocks.

1.7.4. Lakatnik 511 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.087121, 23.385976

1.7.5. Pirin 70 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 41.652488, 23.527132

1.7.6. Pleven 180 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.318137, 24.677353

1.7.7. Plovdiv 151 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.076169, 24.793879

1.7.8. Rila 833 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.194797, 23.553754

1.7.9. Ruse 185 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.566788, 26.108447

1.7.10. Sliven 140 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.622760, 26.379972

1.7.11. Smolyan 45 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.627517, 24.626095

1.7.12. Sofia 469 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.711590, 23.115276

summary

The capital and largest city of Bulgaria. At least five indoor climbing spots within the city as well as rock climbing/ boulder spots at the outskirts of the city towards Vitosha Mountain.

where to stay

Plenty of hotels, hostels, as well as couch-surfing opportunities.

1.7.13. Sredna Stara planina 213 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.718009, 24.791970

1.7.14. Varna 196 routes in Crag

Summary:
Deep water soloing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.329281, 27.552217

1.7.15. Veliko Tarnovo 353 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.153870, 25.418364

1.7.16. Vratsa 602 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.174243, 23.555491

description

The biggest climbing area in Bulgaria. Offers sport, trad and mixed routes up to 400 m.

access issues

where to stay

Camp at the grassy areas on the right and left as you drive up through the gorge. Water is available at a spring on the left camp area.

1.8. Croatia 5,966 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.445535, 16.431620

1.8.1. Istra 1,376 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.126918, 13.840985

1.8.2. Kvarnerski zaljev i Lika 1,056 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.978359, 15.055583

1.8.3. Dalmacija 3,030 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.427937, 16.560594

summary

Dalmatia is a narrow stripe of Croatia located at the east shore of the Adriatic Sea, stretching from the island of Rab in the north to the Bay of Kotor in the south with Split as major city.

description

All of Dalmatia offers great climbing and also deep water soloing along the coast and on the islands. Split is a major hub for climbing but anywhere in Dalmatia the next climbing spot is not far.

1.8.4. Sjeverna Hrvatska 504 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.712304, 16.423636

1.9. Czechia 86,395 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.738969, 15.331464

summary

description

Guides, routes and topos:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Database of routes, locations and map (czech).

  2. Skalní oblasti ČR: Route database and information about current moisture conditions and restrictions (czech).

  3. Lezec.cz - Czechclimbing.com: Climbing guides with topos, ascents (czech).

  4. Javaanes.cz- Crags in Moravia, climbing guides, topos (czech, ).

  5. Euroclimbing.com: Topos and some climbing guides (czech).

  6. Goat.cz: Topos and some climbing guides (mostly) in Moravia and Silesia (czech).

Information about climbing:

  1. Lezec.cz: Information about climbing in Czech Republic (czech).

  2. Czechclimbing.com: Information about climbing in Czech Republic ().

  3. Euroclimbing.com: Information about climbing, equipement and new routes (czech).

  4. Horydoly.cz: Information about climbing and other outdoor activities (czech, , )

  5. Horyinfo.cz: Information about climbing, equipement and new routes (czech, , , ).

Maps:

  1. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, Crags and climbing areas map, Climbing restrictions map.

  2. Horydoly.cz: Crags, huts, indoor climbing, tourist information map.

  3. Javaanes.cz: Crags and boulder fields map (Moravia and Silesia mostly).

  4. Horezdrar.cz: Crags and climbing areas map.

  5. Geoscience map - Czech Geological Survey: Geological informations and maps.

access issues

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

ethic

Rules, principles and standards

Rock climbing in the Czech Republic is regulated by the rules, principles and set of standards for individual areas and crags. Please respect local traditions and rules.

Accept and make yourself familiar with:

  • principles of sport climbing (climb with the help of your own strength only, don't use artificial aids, etc.)
  • principles of first ascents and installing fixed protection
  • competence of regional climbing commissions of Czech Mountaineering Association (list)
  • prohibition of creating and chopping holds
  • which type of removable climbing gear is allowed and don't damaging rock (roped knots, slings, ufos vs. friends, wires, hexes, nuts and cams)
  • possibilities of using chalk (strictly prohibited vs. tolerated)
  • restrictions resulting from weather conditions (e.g. prohibition of climbing on wet rock (eventually hours or days after rain or during winter)

Rules:

  1. Rules of climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia (czech)

  2. Rules of climbing in rock areas of the Czech republic (czech)

  3. Rules of climbing in Jizerské hory area (czech)

1.9.1. Střední Čechy 5,964 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.958638, 14.515284

description

1.9.2. Jižní Čechy 4,033 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.103491, 14.362212

description

"Jsou to kvaky, ale pěkný" - tak lze výstižně popsat zdejší lezení slovy horského vůdce Víti Nováka. I proto Jižní čechy nemají knižního průvodce (kromě bouldrů v 'Loučovice'). Tady na TheCrag naleznete ucelené skalní topo i s informacemi kde parkovat, a které skály stojí za to. Ať už pokedete do kterékoliv části, vždycky se najde něco k lezení. Na svoji příští dovolenou v Jižních Čechách tak určitě přibalte cajky:)

Aktuální informace a spolulezce najdete na Horolezení jižní Čechy a Bouldering Jižní Čechy

Níže najdete krátký výběr toho nejlepšího:

Sportovky:
'Bechyně' s s luxusně odjištěnými cestami je snem každého sportovkáře. Níže na jihu je několik parádních možností v 'Skály u Českého Krumlova'. A opomenout bychom neměli ani 'Skály u Strakonic'
Tradiční lezení:
Výběr je tady skutečně velký. Slavné jsou 'Jickovice' u Písku, známé jako český Yosemite - tady si zalezete ve spárách, které jsou výborně dojistit. Legendární je také stěna 'Sokolčí' u Kaplice. Nad řekou vltavou se tyčí pěkné 'Skály u Domoradic'. A pokud se vám stýská po jizerkách, velmi podobné lezení najdete na 'Choustník' kousek od Tábora
Bouldry:
kamenů jsou tady opravdu mraky. Největší oblastí jsou 'Loučovice', slavné pro každoroční lezecký festival a lezení na tření po oblých chytech. Nedaleko v 'Skály u Prachatic' a zbytku 'Šumava' je k dispozici spousta dalších oblastí. 'Skály u Jindřichova Hradce' jsou plné bouldrů a neustále vznikají nové. A zapomenou nesmíme ani na 'Údolí Lužnice pod Táborem'.
Pro rodiny s dětmi:
Na lano 'Bechyně', 'Besednická hora', 'Havraní skála', 'Barevná skála', 'Stráž', 'Hradiště'.

Na bouldry 'České Žleby', 'Ceská Kanada', 'Kalovy u Sušice'

Zajímavá místa:
'Štamberk' - lezení okolo zříceniny hradu, a to jak na laně (sportovní i tradiční), tak bouldry

'Ďáblova prdel' - na tomto netradičním skalním útvraru potrénujete spárové lezení

'U Lannova kříže' - bouldry v lese na kamenech opracovaných lidmi

'U Mamuta' - méně známé skály v malebném místě nad řekou lužnicí s krásnými cestami a místem na kempování

'Balvan u knihovny' - šutr přímo v centru českých budějovic, raritou je, že už jednou změnil svou lokaci

'Skály na Kleti' - unikátní lezení ve výšce 1000 m.n.m

'Podskalí' - přírodní bouldrovka s unikátním průvodcem z 90. let

access issues

S lezením nebývá problém, je jen pár zakázaných lezeckých oblastí, hlavně v Národním Parku Šumava

where to stay

Jižní čechy jsou turisticky velmi populární a všemožných ubytovacích možností je spousta

ethic

Nic speciálního

history

Leze se tady už dlouho, například v 'Jickovice' už okolo roku 1920. Písečtí lezci svůj lokální průvodce vydali v roce 1956. První větší průvodce se objevil v 1968 - Nepískovcové skalní oblasti v Čechách. Následován byl Horolezecký průvodce českobudějovické oblasti z roku 1980 a v roce 1986 aktualizovaným průvodcem po nepískovcových skalních oblastech. Od té doby knižně vyšel jenom průvodce na 'Loučovice' v roce 2019, ale vznikl taky nespočet menších pdf průvodců pro různé oblasti.

1.9.3. Západní Čechy a Krušnohoří 11,697 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.951433, 13.119821

1.9.4. Severní Čechy 42,376 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.679013, 14.487925

1.9.5. Východní Čechy 14,147 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.203248, 16.085410

1.9.6. Vysočina 2,057 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.478056, 15.768296

summary

The Vysočina region is a hilly area in the middle of Czechia. These hills are known as Bohemian Moravian Highlands

1.9.7. Jižní Morava 2,682 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.082941, 16.492981

description

South Moravian Region

Guidebook - 2019 - SKÝPALA, Vladimír a WOLF, Vladimír a kol. Moravské skály III. Jižní Morava. 2019. 272 s. (czech)

1.9.8. Moravské pískovce 1,091 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.134998, 17.809715

description

Guidebook - 2018 - SKÝPALA, Vladimír a WOLF, Vladimír a kol. Moravské skály I. Východní Morava. 2018. 190 s. (czech)

1.9.9. Severní Morava a Slezsko 2,348 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.968174, 17.818959

description

Moravian-Silesian Region - Wikipedia

Guidebook - 2018 - SKÝPALA, Vladimír a WOLF, Vladimír a kol. Moravské skály II. Severní Morava a Slezsko. 2018. 216 s. (czech)

1.10. Denmark 1,234 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 56.248453, 11.716720

1.10.1. Jylland 90 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 56.488302, 9.773679

1.10.2. Fyn 1 route in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 55.235037, 10.435420

1.10.3. Sjælland 63 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 55.291089, 11.937156

1.10.4. Bornholm 1,077 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 55.184650, 14.903554

summary

description

"Bornholm on the Rocks", 2nd edition 2020, Karsten Kurz, Geoquest, ISBN 978-3-9819515-6-1

1.10.5. Bunker 0 routes in Boulder

description

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_I8ZmNXysg

1.10.6. Lundestenen 0 routes in Area

description

1.10.7. Hundborgstenen 0 routes in Area

description

1.10.8. Rommel 3 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 56.259463, 8.130406

description

Old WW2 bunker. Made of small rocks and concrete.

1.11. Estonia 360 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 58.713093, 24.980517

summary

description

1.11.1. Tallinn 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.447762, 24.937428

1.11.2. Ellandvahe kivi 26 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.460222, 25.137569

1.11.3. Kärga kivi 13 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.568680, 25.764356

1.11.4. Jaanukse kivi 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.474769, 25.366930

1.11.5. Mardimiku kivi 15 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.576085, 25.727689

1.11.6. Augu Suurkivi 13 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.502445, 25.302018

1.11.7. Jaani-Tooma Suurkivi 10 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.600518, 25.771767

1.11.8. Majakamäe kivi 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.605031, 25.922702

1.11.9. Ehalkivi 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.549738, 26.587846

1.11.10. Matsikivi 8 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.608849, 25.904787

1.11.11. Tagaküla Suurkivi 8 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.541373, 26.592594

1.11.12. Aruküla hiidrahn 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.361129, 25.080437

1.11.13. Tammispea 7 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.560291, 25.817060

1.11.14. Joomakivi 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.652377, 25.735905

1.11.15. Linda-Neitsi 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.356484, 26.076707

1.11.16. Tiirukivi 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.633603, 25.759499

1.11.17. Malusi 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.601813, 25.322993

1.11.18. Mustoja 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.584840, 26.198633

1.11.19. Kaarnakivi 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.580422, 26.275919

1.11.20. Sorrukivi 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.642881, 25.747808

1.11.21. Põdraniidu kivi 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.516571, 25.480828

1.11.22. Majakivi 2 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.583094, 25.575856

1.11.23. Tammneeme Tiirukivi 17 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.537941, 24.896098

1.11.24. Pahkla Suurkivi 18 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.211996, 24.876085

1.11.25. Kelvingi 11 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.553116, 24.827437

1.11.26. Õpiringi Suurkivi 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.393513, 24.632742

1.11.27. Eerikukivi 9 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.588012, 24.761203

1.11.28. Astangu käigud 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 59.400174, 24.627722

1.11.29. Raudalu 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.370883, 24.755418

1.11.30. Rahumäe 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.393548, 24.716595

1.11.31. Naage 26 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.404990, 24.340481

1.11.32. Neosti kivikülv 10 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.371285, 24.084263

1.11.33. Lohusalu 11 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.387263, 24.205325

1.11.34. Leetse Saunakivi 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.369000, 24.134399

1.11.35. Pallaste 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.359041, 24.072460

1.11.36. Aidakivi 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.390151, 24.240830

1.11.37. Põõsaspea 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.223866, 23.514496

1.11.38. Põllküla 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.336860, 24.155076

1.11.39. Truumani kivid 6 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 58.987874, 23.613298

1.11.40. Vahase saare hiidrahnud 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 58.143090, 22.475211

1.11.41. Jaagu-Mihkli hiiekivi 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 58.622982, 23.666054

1.11.42. Väkra Hiiekivi 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 58.455170, 22.838360

1.11.43. Põrgukivi 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 58.903601, 22.188647

1.12. Faroe Islands 26 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 61.977991, -6.845693

1.12.1. Norðradalur 26 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 62.049757, -6.954265

description

Klintri veggurin í Norðradali er partur av streymoyarsyllini, Norðradalur er fyrsta klintri øki í Føroyum har fleiri klintrirutur eru boltaðar, fyrstu leiðurnar vóru boltaðar í 2013, byrja var at boltað í vestara endanum á vegginum sum sæst á myndini niðanfyri, og ætlanin er at gera fleiri rutur á vegginum longur eystureftir, Norðradalur hevur eisini fleiri rutur sum ikki eru boltaðar, sum kunnu klintrast á egnum tryggingum.

The crag in Norðradalur was the first crag to be bolted in Faroe Islands. The first routes were bolted in 2013, it is the routes on the west side of the crag. The crag also has a number of naturally proteced routes which have not been bolted. The rock type is basalt, and the crag is on the geological formation streymoyarsyllin (the streymoy sill).

For further information, see https://www.faroeclimb.com/forari/nordradalur/

access issues

The crag is on the farmer's land. To access the crag via the farmer's land, please bring DKK 20 per climber and place it in the white box at the gate when walking to the crag. Please follow and respect all signs on the fences and gates. Do not go climbing between 2 November to 31 December (both days included), as it is hare shooting season in the mountains.

approach

Turn left at the farmer's house and continue to the locked gate. Park the car along the road, don't drive into the grass.

1.13. Finland 8,388 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 64.092476, 25.575094

summary

Most of Finnish crags are found in Southern Finland, below Jyväskylä.

description

27crags https://27crags.com orginates from Finland so it has most topos, much more than the Crag, but no all.

Finland is the land of Nalle Hukkataival who made the first 9A boulder, Burden of Dreams. There is also lots of hard sport and hard trad too but humble Finns sticked to humble max 8c+ grades.

Rock climbing season in southern Finland is about April-September for most people and April-November for passionate climbers. In Southern Finland in some south facing crags might be possible to rock climb year-round if you don't mind the conditions - temperature is below freezing in winter. In Lapland bouldering season starts in May and Lapland's rope climbing season starts at latest in June.

Some recommendations: Helsinki area, Tampere area, Kustavi for trad.

approach

Approaches in Finland varies often from 1 to 15 minutes.

where to stay

Finland's "Everyman's right" law allows camping quite freely - do not disturb anyone. See https://www.nationalparks.fi/everymansright

Most Lean-to Shelter and Wilderness Huts maintained by Parks & Wildlife Finland are free to use. See map https://www.retkikartta.fi/?mapId=26491 (Layers - Excursion Services - Huts, Shelter, Saunas etc.) and information https://www.nationalparks.fi/huts .

1.13.1. Lapland 98 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 67.842765, 25.541433

summary

In Finnish Lapland there is not many cliffs so only 20-30 rope climbing crags. Few big bouldering areas and some smaller bouldering areas. Korouoma is the place for Finnish ice climbing.

description

Bouldering season in Lapland is from May up to November. Start in April if snow showeling is done. In April-May the approach is longer and is best done with skis.

Sport and trad season in Lapland is June to October.

Lots of mosquitos mid June to September-ish - long clothes and mosquito hat are a must!

See https://27crags.com/ for more crags.

1.13.2. Oulu 596 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 65.046060, 26.101081

1.13.3. Jyväskylä 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 62.264458, 25.763262

1.13.4. Satakunta 878 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 61.582343, 19.772919

1.13.5. Pirkanmaa 606 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 61.682142, 23.746432

1.13.6. Ostrobothnia 2,594 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 63.035124, 22.229240

1.13.7. Proper 1,252 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 60.522220, 22.939029

1.13.8. Uusimaa 1,490 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 60.317961, 24.993093

1.13.9. Olhava 74 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 61.185957, 26.839213

summary

Best trad crag in Finland? One of the highest cliffs at least. Very beautiful setting with forest, lake and good climbing.

approach

Closest parking: Saarijärvi parking lot, address: Kuismantie 990, Kouvola. One hour walk on a gravel road, much less with a bike. (61.196738, 26.880646)

where to stay

Camping just next to crag. Drinking water 200m away from well.

ethic

Locate in national park so respect the nature.

1.13.10. Punkaharju 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 61.634840, 29.132411

summary

A steep DWS venue but you'll be rewarded with your private sauna.

description

Some of the most difficult DWS routes in Finland. Long approach but worth it. A barge with a sauna was installed in 2020 and will hopefully still be there when you visit (bring your own wood!).

approach

Long and potentially difficult. Follow the blue path marked on trees. It's best to approach from the West or by boat. Take care!

1.13.11. Karkaus 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 61.384769, 27.292939

1.13.12. Devil's cave 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 61.444286, 29.226108

1.13.13. Haukkavuori 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 61.485702, 29.218304

1.13.14. Sarajärvi 3 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 61.514897, 29.200050

1.13.15. Pöllyvuori 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 62.517356, 26.756213

summary

Mostly trad, but also three sport routes coming some time.

Topo https://27crags.com/crags/pollyvuori

1.13.16. Åland 674 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 60.222726, 20.044574

summary

Åland is one of the most popular bouldering destinations of Finland. Excellent boulders in stunning landscape and lots of potential for further development.

approach

Ferrys from Stockholm, Helsinki or Tallin. Flights to Mariehamn. Most bouldering sites are in the north of Åland around Geta.

where to stay

There are various campsites on the island, but probably the best is to rent a timber hut. To stay in walking distance to the boulders take one in Soltuna.

1.13.17. Louhos 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 60.900338, 26.647391

summary

Old quarry. All sport because rock quality.

1.13.18. Reventeenvuori 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 60.939780, 26.263520

access issues

No climbing on left after 6pm.

1.13.19. Moisseenvaara 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 62.946139, 30.014157

description

Sport and trad routes around 25 meters and up to 34 m (Risto Reipas, trad).

See topo in 27crags https://27crags.com/crags/moisseenvaara/

approach

1.13.20. Rapionvuori 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 61.570121, 27.863979

description

High (25m?) trad cliff. https://27crags.com/crags/rapionvuori

approach

1.14. France 108,602 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.205053, 1.485338

summary

Croissants, seas of sandstone boulders and scenic limestone sport crags.

description

France is a highly sought-after destination for climbing, and for good reasons. From classic sport crags to scenic multi-pitch adventures just above the water or 4,000m up an alpine peak, there’s a something for everyone here, all year round. And then, there’s the unforgettable food!

As a rule of thumb, the quality of climbing gets better and better as you go South, with some notable exceptions.

For bouldering (‘bloc’). About an hour away from Paris, Fontainebleau is a world-class bouldering area with more than 30,000 sandstone boulder problems. To the West, in the Bretagne region, you’ll find granite boulders right by the beach, such as in Pen-Hir and Kerlouan. In the South, check out Targassone, Annot, Ailefroide and many more.

For sport climbing (’escalade sportive’), there’s no shortage of world-class crags. Start with the classic areas such as Le Saussois, Les Calanques, Le Verdon, Buoux, Volx, Chateauvert, Orpierre, Mouries… and then head to the more ‘futuristic’ falaises such as Ceuse, Les Gorges du Tarn, Saint-Léger du Ventoux, Orgon, Les Gorges du Loup... the list goes on.

For trad climbing (‘escalade en terrain d’aventure’), head to Annot, le Vercors, but also Les Gorges du Verdon or even Ceuse.

Deep water soloing is also worth a mention with Les Calanques, La Ciotat, Les Gorges du Tarn, Les Gorges du Verdon and La Piade being hot spots in the summer months. Watch for tourists when jumping off!

Last but not least, climbing is also well developed in French islands such as Corsica, la Guadeloupe (Caribbeans) and l’Ile de la Reunion (Indian Ocean).

Bonne grimpe!

===

A few useful words:

  • Hi! | Salut!
  • Thank you | Merci
  • Please | S'il vous plait
  • Can you help me? | Pouvez vous m'aider?
  • One beer please! | Une bière s'il vous plait !
  • Climbing | Escalade
  • To belay | Assurer
  • I'm looking for a belayer | Est-ce que quelqu'un peut m'assurer?
  • Where is the climbing area? | Où se trouve le secteur d'escalade?

access issues

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

ethic

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

1.14.1. Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes 17,671 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.509479, 4.553165

1.14.2. Bourgogne-Franche-Comté 4,797 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.228765, 4.803323

1.14.3. Bretagne / Breizh 3,284 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.242395, -3.147570

summary

1.14.4. Centre-Val de Loire 162 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.647856, 1.274466

1.14.5. Corse 2,571 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.213950, 9.013148

1.14.6. Grand-Est 4,766 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.787361, 5.812274

1.14.7. Hauts-de-France 508 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.058263, 2.564923

1.14.8. Île-de-France 30,685 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.676822, 2.535735

1.14.9. Normandie 1,049 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.066331, -0.208780

1.14.10. Nouvelle-Aquitaine 2,067 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.960847, -0.689006

1.14.11. Occitanie 11,771 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.675368, 2.192982

1.14.12. Pays-de-la-Loire 1,550 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.313812, -1.525966

1.14.13. Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur 27,721 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.044426, 5.969330

1.14.14. Overseas France (links) 0 routes in Region

description

'Guadeloupe'[11748451], 'Guyane'[11738923], 'Martinique'[11748499], 'Mayotte'[754647468], 'Nouvelle-Calédonie'[323241615], 'La Réunion'[754647516]

1.15. Germany 105,559 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 28.049580, 15.485544

summary

Beautiful landscapes, safe travelling and a lot of culture to enjoy.

description

Germany is a country in west-central Europe, that stretches from the Alps, across the North European Plain to the North Sea and the Baltic Sea.

Elevation ranges from the mountains of the Alps (highest point: the Zugspitze at 2,962 metres (9,718 ft)) in the south to the shores of the North Sea (Nordsee) in the northwest and the Baltic Sea (Ostsee) in the northeast. Between lie the forested uplands of central Germany and the low-lying lands of northern Germany (lowest point: Neuendorf-Sachsenbande at 3.54 metres (11.6 ft) below sea level), traversed by some of Europe's major rivers such as the Rhine, Danube and Elbe.

Other databases:

1.15.1. Norddeutschland 271 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.608319, 10.192453

1.15.2. Mitteldeutschland 2,939 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.568057, 12.349891

description

Not blessed with too much natural rock formations, Germany's Central East still offers some hidden gems like stunning aretes in shutdown quarries or deep-water-soloing over crystal-clear water.

1.15.3. Berlin 1,269 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.510256, 13.409399

summary

"Dickes B – Kletter- und Boulderführer Berlin - Brandenburg", 3. Auflage 2023, Gerald Krug, Geoquest Verlag Halle, ISBN 9783948622084

description

Despite the complete absence of natural rock formations, Berlin still offers some remedies for the vertically-addicted: artificial climbing walls, gyms, chiselled bunkers and semi-legal buildering. With more than 100 places to climb, you should be able to get pumped.

A nice overview of all locations can be found at http://www.klettern-in-berlin.de (in German).

An excellent guidebook is "Dickes B": http://www.geoquest-verlag.de/?q=node/77

1.15.4. Brandenburg 676 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.465259, 13.416782

summary

"Dickes B – Kletter- und Boulderführer Berlin - Brandenburg", 3. Auflage 2023, Gerald Krug, Geoquest Verlag Halle, ISBN 9783948622084

1.15.5. Oberlausitz 1,713 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.250346, 14.530018

description

small crags or cliffs of Eastern Saxony

1.15.6. Zittauer Gebirge 2,006 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.844676, 14.741620

description

online route database: http://fizig.de/

1.15.7. Sächsische Schweiz 22,005 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.914560, 14.125178

summary

THE birthplace of free climbing: A lifetime of climbing with stout ethics among stunning sandstone towers - not for the faint hearted.

http://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elbsandsteingebirge

description

Die "Sächsische Schweiz" ist Bestandteil des "Elbsandsteingebirges". Das "Elbsandstein Gebirge" beinhaltet als 2. großen Teil die "Böhmische Schweiz". Allgemein werden zum Gebiet die Sandsteinfelsen gezählt. Am Rande des Gebietes kommt es zu Überschneidungen mit Ergussgesteinen.

Ein Teil des Gebirges gehört zum Nationalpark mit entsprechenden speziellen gesetzlichen Reglungen. Inzwischen werden durch die Behörden auch weitere Gebiete zur "Nationalparkregion" gezählt und gesetzliche Reglungen auch auf diese Gebiete ausgedehnt.

The Elbe Sandstone Mountains with their German part (Sächsische Schweiz = Saxon Switzerland) and the Czech counterpart (České Švýcarsko - Czech Switzerland) have long been a epicenter of climbing development (see History).

Today, luckily, the masses avoid the area mainly because of its grim reputation and stout ethics (see ethics), which require solid climbing skills, some modesty or someone giving advise on the route - even better, all of these. However, with roughly 1100 free standing rock formations and about 20000 routes to climb, this area is a must for the adventurous climber. Late spring till early autumn is the best time for climbing, although the enthusiast may also enjoy south faces on sunny winter days. These will be too hot in summer, but shady faces can always be found.

The standard guidebook is the 6-volume "Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz" by Heinicke. Route descriptions in compacted German only. The alternative "Kompakt-Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz" uses a cryptic sign language which is non-language specific. The "Topoführer Sächsische Schweiz" has only limited coverage, but lots of topos. The newest addition is the „Elbsandstein Plaisir – Kletterführer“ by Panico. This guidebook caters to beginners and visitors, with maps, topos and comments on the various climbs. But it only includes a very limited amount of routes.

If you don't have a local friend that can tell you if that VIIa is really VIIa or actually feels like VIIIb with ground fall potential, check http://www.teufelsturm.de with a huge route database and invaluable comments on many routes (in German, but with straightforward icons) or visit https://elllocesaqui.wordpress.com/ for a good overview in english, specifically designed for visitors. A comprehensive introduction into the local climbing slang can be found here: http://www.joergbrutscher.homepage.t-online.de/sandbag.htm

Other helpful websites are listed below. Most are in german, but they still provide a good overview for first time visitors. Especially helpful are the following websites, which recoomend nice, easy and beginner-friendly routes.

http://www.on-sight.de/gebiete/index.html?elbsandlist.html

http://www.wuestner.de/klettern_list.php?type=einf

http://www.reinoehl.de/landschaft/schweiz/klettern1_1.htm

http://www.rissanstiegsfreunde.de/site/Vorstiegsempfehlung.php

http://db-sandsteinklettern.gipfelbuch.de/gebiet.php?gebietid=19

Or watch this helpful video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jd3Gx9FzOA

Further informations: (only in german) http://www.nationalpark-saechsische-schweiz.de/besucherinformation/klettern/ https://www.bergzeit.de/magazin/klettern-saechsische-schweiz/ http://www.allgaeu-plaisir.de/klettern-im-elbsandstein-gebirge/

access issues

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

approach

The area is best reached from Dresden by commuter trains running every half an hour from Dresden (30 - 45 min). Depending on your destination, you can then continue by foot or use buses for the more remote areas, for which a car might be more convenient when you plan to return in the late hours. The more frequented areas are better avoided by car at the weekends, as lots of hikers can occupy the little parking the is. There are not many real roadside crags - be prepared to walk from 15 min (e.g. Falkenstein) up to 2 h (Hinterer Zschand).

where to stay

Being a popular tourist destination, many villages boast boarding houses and smaller hotels. The Sächsische Bergsteigerbund, a subdivision of the German Alpine Club, maintains two huts (Ottomühle and Saupsdorf) which generally require reservation (discounts on membership). Camping may be permitted at the alpine huts (charged) or on the camping ground in the Kirnitzschtal (NW of Bad Schandau). Traditionally, climbers used to bivouac at the walls under overhangs (Boofe ['boa-feh]). This is still tolerated in designated places (Freiübernachtungsstelle) There are 54 of these Boofen (https://www.wandern-saechsische-schweiz.de/wordpress/boofenliste/) Tread extremely lightly, as anything else endangers this compromise: no fires, no littering, dig a hole. Every summer the discussion about closing these bivouac sites rises again, so PLEASE sleep exclusively in the designated places and Leave No Trace.

ethic

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

history

The Elbe Sandstone Mountains are probably the birthplace of modern freeclimbing and certainly one of the most historic climbing areas you can find. Not counting the Bronze-age settlement on Pfaffenstein nor the occassional remains of castles of robber-knight on some summits, climbing here dates back to the mid 19th century.

In 1864, gymnasts from Bad Schandau ascended the Falkenstein. While their style (using ladders, thrown ropes and pick-axes) saw a few imitators, it soon became clear that what we today call "free-climbing" is the way to go. Oskar Schuster and Rudolf Fehrmann were among the driving forces to formulate the Saxonian climbing rules, as they still stand today (see ethics): no climbing onto anything "a cow could ascend" (ie only true summits), no progress on artificial holds, placing bolts only as the last resort. This visionary abstinence, born from a mixture of elitarism, boldness and an eye for conservation issues alike, helped to form a climbing standard that was unrivalled in the world for decades until the 1970ies. Milestones like Spannagelturm Perrykante (VIIb) by Oliver Perry-Smith (1906), Wilder Kopf Westkante (VIIIa) by Emanuel Strubich (1918), Frienstein Königshangel IXa by Fritz Eske (1965) and Amselspitze Schallmauer Xa (Bernd Arnold) are still testpieces for modern climbers - especially when you would climb with the equipment of the respective era.

Saxonian climbers like Fehrmann and Strubich also left their footprints in Alps. In the 1930ies, Fritz Wiessner brought Saxonian ethics to the USA, where it evolved to modern freeclimbing and finally spread over the world.

The two World Wars took their toll among climbers - but also the crags - a great part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains became part of Chechoslovakia, which made climbing trips for climbers crossing the border a little more complicated. During the Socialist era, free traveling to western countries was banned. Arguably, this may also have contributed to the rise of climbing difficulties: climbers like Karl-Heinz Gonda, Bernd Arnold, Mathias Gäbler and Manfred Vogel established benchmarks of their time. However, in the recent decades the strict gound-up ethic made the creation of climbs at the top end of the scale increasingly difficult if not impossible. Already, some first ascenders have been suspected to bend the rules; and debated routes have even been removed. Every few years, the controversy between traditionalist (defending the status quo) and reformers (wishing to allow climbing on currently forbidden walls and rappel-bolting) boils up again. So far, the tradition stood its ground, supported by the National Park administration, who also favours restrictive climbing rules.

Whatever the future may bring, with roughly 20000 routes there is a lifetime of climbing - and despite being considered "outclimbed" for first ascents long ago, some enthusiast still add some hundred routes each year.

1.15.8. Erzgebirgsvorland 1,112 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.986051, 12.901229

1.15.9. Dresden und Umgebung 2,055 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.169441, 13.680305

description

"Dresden geht steil - Sportkletterführer", 1. Auflage 2023, Lutz Zybell und Gerald Krug, Geoquest Verlag Halle, ISBN xxx

1.15.10. Erzgebirge 3,738 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.717798, 13.188072

description

Mittleres und Westerzgebirge "Glück Auf! - Kletterführer Erzgebirge" 2. Auflage 2022 S. Flemmig, L. Zybell, I. Röger, G. Krug Geoquest Verlag, ISBN 978-3-948622-06-0

Osterzgebirge: "Dresden geht steil - Sportkletterführer", 1. Auflage 2023, Lutz Zybell und Gerald Krug, Geoquest Verlag Halle, ISBN xxx -

Muldetal bei Freiberg: "Kletterführer Mittelsachsen" Author(s):1. Auflage 2021, Lutz Zybell und Gerald Krug, Geoquest Verlag Halle, ISBN: 978-3-948622-00-8

Bouldern im Erzgebirge: "Erzbloc - Boulderführer Erzgebirge, Chemnitztal und Vogtland" von Geoquest, ISBN: 9783981951554

ethic

https://www.dav-chemnitz.de/Klettergebiete

http://www.erzbloc.de

Bitte informiert und haltet euch an aktuelle Sperrungen, Zonierung und Verbote, sowie die im Kletter- und/oder Boulderführer ausgewiesenen Zustiege.

Auszug Kletterregeln Erzgebirge: "Der Gebrauch von chemischen und mineralischen Stoffen, die zur Erhöhung der Reibung am Felsen dienen sollen (z.B. Magnesia), ist generell nicht erlaubt, es sei denn für das Gebiet oder einen Felsbereich wurde eine andere Regelung getroffen und von der AG Neue Wege im aktuellen Kletterführer oder im Internet veröffentlicht". Im klassischen Gebiet Teufelsteine zu unterlassen. Quelle: DAV Chemnitz

history

1.15.11. Vogtland 1,403 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.662305, 12.121752

summary

Für das Bouldergebiet "Vogtland Bloc" im Vogtland gibt es einen kostenlosen Auswahlführer zum Downloaden: https://www.yumpu.com/de/document/view/63601192/vogtland-bloc-auswahlfuhrer

description

Die Kletterregion Vogtland umfaßt hier im wesentlichen den Bereich der vogtländischen Mulde und damit die nördlichen Teile des thüringischen und sächsischen Vogtlands. Das bayerische und böhmische Vogtland sowie die zum Elstergebirge gehörigen Anteile des sächsischen Vogtlandes bleiben außer Acht. Letzteres wird hier entsprechend der Gebirgszugehörigkeit separat geführt (http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/area/648011757).

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogtland .

1.15.12. Thüringisch-Fränkisches Schiefergebirge 156 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.487660, 11.493381

description

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Naturraumkarte_Thueringisch-Fraenkisch-Vogtlaendisches_Schiefergebirge.png

Thüringisches Schiefergebirge = several ranges of mountains which correctly do not belong to "Thüringer Wald", however often are aggregated together with it under this name

Fränkisches Schiefergebirge = Frankenwald

(Vogtländisches Schiefergebirge = ostthüring. Schiefergebirge: geografically seen as completly different region, however similar rocks. Part of Vogtland)

1.15.13. Fichtelgebirge 713 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.110564, 12.034437

description

Das Fichtelgebirge endet aus deutscher Sicht an der Grenze zu Tschechien. Der tschechische Begriff Smrčiny ist etwas umfassender und schließt das nordöstlich angrenzende Elstergebirge ein.

see https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/area/421095783

access issues

"Dreizonenkonzept" (see access issues of crags) (ohne Elstergebirge)

Zone 1: Ruhezonen, Klettern mit Seil nicht erlaubt, Boulder ist erlaubt, wenn nicht anders vermerkt

Zone 2: Vorrangzonen Naturschutz, Klettern auf bisherigen Wegen bis zum Umlenkhaken erlaubt, keine Neutouren

Zone 3: Vorrangzonen Klettern, Klettern und Neutouren nach Rücksprache erlaubt.

https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/zonierungen/fichtelgebirge/

where to stay

1.15.14. Obermainisches u. Oberpfälzisches Hügelland 108 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.751206, 11.799039

description

Zusammenfassung Obermainisches Hügelland und Oberpfälzer Hügelland.

Neben den Indoormöglichkeiten einige kleinere Klettereien und Bouldereien hauptsächlich an Sandsteinfelsen und in ehemal. Steinbrüchen.

1.15.15. Oberpfälzer Wald 161 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.610301, 12.437916

description

1.15.16. Gäuplatten - Keuper-Liasland 577 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.387289, 10.044371

summary

Nicht wirklich eine herausragende Kletter-"Region". Im wesentlichen .Indoor und einige Steinbrüche. Meist .Sandstein. Der Einschnitt des .Neckar erschließt zudem den darunterliegenden Muschelkalk (!).

description

Fränkisches und schwäbisches "Keuper-Lias-Land" und die Mainfränkische-, Tauber- und Neckar-Gäuplatten. Der Name ist nicht aus den Fingern gesaugt, sondern kennzeichnet immerhin 4 "naturräumliche Haupteinheitengruppen". Gerade zusammenfassend macht die Bezeichnung (und es gibt eben keine andere!) durchaus mehr Sinn, als die wenigen Möglichkeiten definitiv falsch dem Jura und Spessart mit den bekannten Gebieten zuzuschlagen, in noch wesentlich mehr Landschaftseinheiten aufzuteilen oder mangels "Kletterregion" die wenigen Crags und zwischenzeitlich Unmengen (!) an Gyms gar einzeln parallel und gleichwertig zu Regionen aufzuführen.

1.15.17. Frankenjura 16,170 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.247436, 11.408170

summary

Frankenjura is a world famous climbing destination hosting many classics that are listed in climbing history books. Its sheer size and variety of climbs offer a lifetime of climbing.

description

Frankenjura is Germany's 2nd largest climbing area and a world-class sport climbing destination with a quite long history. In this large area in northern Bavaria, between the cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nuremberg, there are approximately 1,000 different crags spread out in a pitoresque landscape of forested valleys and mediaval villages. Apart from climbing, don't forget to excessively test the excellent local beer and solid food.

The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality grey limestone. Most routes are either vertical or overhanging, finger pockets are very common. The best time to climb at Frankenjura is spring and autumn, but summer is also fine since many of the crags are hidden in the forest.

access issues

Frankenjura has an established zone concept regulating whether a rock is allowed and if yes, how: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/zonierungen/

For seasonal closures of crags, see: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/

For bouldering, check first: https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/wissenswertes/boulderappell/. Especially, no publishing of boulders, and no bouldering after sunset.

approach

Coming from abroad it is probably best to fly into Munich and rent a car. As the crags are spread out over a fairly large area having a car is strongly recommended anyways.

Check the many crags for more detailed information on access.

For a detailed description on how to reach Frankenjura by fair means visit the Ecopoint Web-Site.

where to stay

Especially in the northern Frankenjura one can find plenty of rather cheap holiday appartments. Camping is another popular option. The legendary Oma Eichler campground in the Trubachtal is a meeting point for climbers since many years.

history

A lot! Especially in the 80's, Frankenjura was the destination for hard-core climbing. You can find here the world’s first 8c ('Wallstreet') and 9a ('Action directe' 1991) and many more ultra classics. Frankenjura was also the birth-place of the redpoint concept, established by Kurt Albert † in the mid 70s.

1.15.18. Niederbayern / Bayerischer Wald 808 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.763532, 12.812080

description

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayerischer_Wald

approach

1.15.19. Oberbayern 8,890 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.900255, 17.860328

1.15.20. Bayerisch Schwaben 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.374988, 10.641208

1.15.21. Allgäu 3,130 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.731497, 10.279838

description

The Allgäu (Standard German: [ˈalɡɔʏ̯]) is a region in Swabia in southern Germany. It covers the south of Bavarian Swabia, southeastern Baden-Württemberg and parts of Austria. The region stretches from the prealpine lands up to the Alps. The main rivers flowing through the Allgäu are the Lech and Iller. Allgäu is not an administrative unit.

The Allgovian area is notable for its beautiful landscapes and is popular for vacations and therapeutic stays. It is well known in Germany for its farm produce, especially dairy products including Hirtenkäse ("herdsman's cheese") and Bergkäse ("hill cheese"), a generic alpine product also from Austria and Switzerland. Besides tourism and dairy products, another important economic sector is the building of industrial equipment and machines. Fendt tractors, developed and produced in Marktoberdorf are one of the most famous products of the region.

"Allgovia" is occasionally used as a synonym for the region. The alpine regions of the Allgäu rise over 2,000 metres in altitude and are popular for winter skiing. The castle of Neuschwanstein is in the eastern part of the Allgäu. Source Wikipedia

Maps

  • AVE 2, 7a

1.15.22. Hegau 252 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.855496, 8.938515

1.15.23. Linzgau - Oberschwaben 403 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.770004, 9.561350

description

Linzgau is a region in southern Germany in the state of Baden-Württemberg north of Lake Constance and south of the Danube valley. It is bounded by Lake Constance on the south, the Hegau on the west, the Danube valley on the north, and the Schussen River on the east. It reaches west as far as Überlingen and north as far as Pfullendorf.

1.15.24. Schwäbische Alb 4,583 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.445332, 9.588043

description

The Swabian Jura offers numerous possibilities for sport climbing and belongs - together with the Elbe Sandstone Mountains aka Saxon Switzerland and the Franconian Jura - to the outstanding low mountain ranges in Germany when it comes to climbing.

The 'upper Danube valley'[249396492] offers the best climbing possibilities and the highest walls. Other areas with good climbing possibilities are located in the 'Blaubeuren area'[249297927], in the 'Lenninger Valley'[249521403] and in the 'Ermstal Valley'[249742932]. The individual guides over the numerous larger and smaller rocks are described in several climbing guidebooks. On the Ostalb the rock formations of the Rosenstein near Heubach and the Eselsburger Tal are among the best known climbing areas. The steep rocks at the ruin Reußenstein near Neidlingen are also a popular place for climbing. In the Swabian Jura area there are hundreds of climbing routes up to difficulty level 10.

Source Wikipedia

Checkout Jörg Zeidelhacks video medley of hard routes in the Swabian Jura. It gives a great overview over the rock and landscape:

https://vimeo.com/185016466

https://vimeo.com/368491595

access issues

Climbing has not been permitted everywhere for several years. The Nature Conservation Act of Baden-Wuerttemberg includes the rocks among the so-called §24a biotopes. In principle, entering these biotopes is not permitted. In recent years, the nature conservation administration and the climbing associations have succeeded in defining the areas that can be climbed and the climbing bans for the entire Swabian Jura. Some rocks are now closed all year round, some climbing bans only apply seasonally during the breeding season of certain bird species (e.g. eagle owl or kestrel).

Source Wikipedia

1.15.25. Schwarzwald 3,460 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.279025, 8.220606

1.15.26. Westpfalz 3,121 routes in Area

Summary:
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.301596, 7.765048

access issues

Always check for temporary closed crags due to environmental protection. There is a dedicated homepage from the 'Pfälzer Kletterer', that shows all currently closed crags: http://www.pfaelzer-kletterer.de/sub_tourendb/pfalztour/felssperrung/sperrlistePfalz.php

Please stick to it or some crags could be closed permanently, which happened in the past.

1.15.27. Saar-Nahe-Bergland 229 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.468141, 7.202650

description

1.15.28. Hunsrück 451 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.903177, 7.271803

1.15.29. Eifel 2,972 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.319264, 7.041019

1.15.30. Niederrheinische Bucht & Ruhrgebiet 3,124 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.317737, 7.103233

1.15.31. Rhein-Main 236 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.395111, 8.296448

description

1.15.32. Süderbergland 826 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.164381, 7.733445

description

1.15.33. Westerwald 74 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.626127, 7.944831

1.15.34. Taunus 371 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.282400, 8.200654

description

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taunus

1.15.35. Odenwald 2,224 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.620004, 9.070736

summary

Gestein: Odenwälder Sandstein und verschiedene kristalline Gesteine

(http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odenw%C3%A4lder_Sandstein)

description

Die Klettergebiete des Odenwalds sind aus dem für die Region typischen Sandstein. Dies gilt ebenfalls für die Bouldergebiete im Süden in der Heiderlberger Umgebung. Die Bouldergebiete im Nordwesten, wie z.B. das Felsenmeer, sind alle kristallin, mit vielen Variationen von plutonischem Granit, Gabbro, Diorit und metamorphen Gneis. Für detailiertere Informationen siehe https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odenwald .

--

The climbing areas of the Odenwald, as well as the southern bouldering areas in the Heidelberg region, consist of sandstone characteristic for this area. The bouldering areas of the north-west are dominated by crystalline intrusive/plutonic rock, e.g. granite, gabbro, and diorite and metamorphic gneiss. For more details, please see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odenwald

1.15.36. Spessart 158 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.030024, 9.336770

description

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spessart

1.15.37. Vogelsberg 0 routes in Region

1.15.38. Rhön 533 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.486466, 10.034221

1.15.39. Teutoburger Wald + Eggegebirge 464 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.131697, 8.308994

description

1.15.40. Weser-Leine-Bergland 4,099 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.031578, 9.394629

description

Das vermeintlich flache Niedersachsen kann mit einem überraschend großen und vielfältigen Angebot an Kletterfelsen aufwarten: die Granitbollwerke des Harzes, die Sandsteingebiete des Göttinger Waldes und der Bodensteiner Klippen sowie die großen Kalkklettergebiete von Ith, Selter, Kanstein & Co.

1.15.41. Großraum Göttingen 862 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.557193, 10.009333

1.15.42. Harz + Harzvorland 5,424 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.764794, 10.801541

description

Der Harz, bis ins Mittelalter Hart (‚Bergwald‘) genannt, ist ein Mittelgebirge in Deutschland und das höchste Gebirge Norddeutschlands. Er liegt am Schnittpunkt von Niedersachsen, Sachsen-Anhalt und Thüringen. Anteil am Harz haben im Westen die Landkreise Goslar und Göttingen, im Norden und Osten die Landkreise Harz und Mansfeld-Südharz und im Süden der Landkreis Nordhausen. Der Brocken ist mit 1141,2 m ü. NHN der höchste Berg des Harzes und Sachsen-Anhalts.

Die Bergwelt des Harzes wurde schon in früheren Zeiten für ausgedehnte Wanderungen genutzt (u. a. von Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Heinrich Heine und Hans Christian Andersen). Neben dem Okertal und der Roßtrappe bei Thale sind auch die Hohneklippen (Höllenklippe und Feuerstein bei Schierke) das Ziel von Kletterern.

Quelle: Wikipedia

Mehr Informationen gibt es bei der IG-Klettern Niedersachsen.

access issues

Aktuelle Informationen zu ganzjährigen und saisonalen Sperrungen gibt es bei der IG-Klettern Niedersachsen.

Bitte Ausschilderung und Absperrungen beachten !

Zonenregelung

  • Zone I: Tabuzone (ganzjähriger Verzicht bzw. Sperrung, Ruhezone)
  • Zone II: Status-Quo-Zone (Klettern nur auf den bestehenden Routen, keine Neutouren)
  • Zone III: Entwicklungszone (Neutouren möglich)

1.15.43. Thüringer Becken 200 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.109628, 11.092564

1.15.44. Thüringer Wald 1,346 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.750147, 10.609480

description

1.15.45. Nordhessen 237 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.143671, 9.321762

1.16. Greece 18,868 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.044128, 24.554689

description

some overview of climbing areas at http://climbgreece.com

1.16.1. Aegean Islands 6,527 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.270270, 26.180270

1.16.2. Athens 1,771 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.989674, 23.603477

summary

The Capital of Greece with dozens of crags nearby, most easily accesible

description

Athens is a big city and in terms of climbing Atheneans are very lucky. There are nearby routes from 3 to 8th grade, short, long, sport, trad and mixed. Different crags may have complete different characteristics.

Climbing in Athens is friendly all year round if you choose the correct crag according to sun position

In general, if you travel by car approach is not an issue, most crags require less than 15 minute walking.

approach

Nearest airport is Eleftherios Venizelos (ATH). Biggest nearby ports are Piraeus, Rafina and Lavrio There is train (OSE) and bus (KTEL) conection with all major cities of Greece daily.

where to stay

Athens is full of Hotels, hostels, AirBnBs so you won't have problem finding where to stay

1.16.3. Crete 1,392 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 35.316465, 24.914670

summary

Crete is the largest Greek islands and offers plenty of rock and sea. From a climbing perspective it is not as developed as some other islands but has huge potential.

description

Limestone as far as the eye can see! Crete is just waiting to be truly discovered. There are already hundreds of routes up all over the island with hundreds if not thousands waiting to be put up.

GUIDEBOOKS

Unfortunately there is no complete guidebook, but the following 5 local, partly outdated guidebooks. So let's make thecrag the complete guidebook! ;-)

"Greece - Sport Climbing: The Best Of", Aris Theodoropoulos, 2nd edition 2017, ISBN 9789609456210. 30 sort crags in whole Greece, in Crete the 3 crags Voulismeno Aloni, Plakias and Thersanas are covered.

[GR] "Crete - Climbing in Chania", ΜΑΝΩΛΙΣ ΜΕΣΑΡΧΑΚΗΣ, 2007, ISBN 9789608195950. Mostly in greek with a few english comments and approach descriptions, though with the topos usable for non-greek readers. It covers the areas Stavros, Kalathos, Monte Vardia, Aghii Apostoli, Theriso, Gigilos-Pyrgi and Marmara.

"Climbing in Crete - From North to South", Phillipe Bugada, 2009, ISBN 9782952637817. Bilingual guidebook covering the north coast crags Skoteino and Malia and the south coast crags Plakias, Agiofarango, Kapetanania and Treis Ekklisies.

[GR] "Crete - Kapetaniana", Phillippe Bugada, 2006, ISBN 9782952637800. Very colourful french guidebook in 4 languages for the Kapetaniana crags.

"Kreta - Paradies Ostkreta", Albert Precht, 2015, self published. Poetic german guidebook covering 11 crags around the Ha-Canyon. Sportcrags and a lot of multipitch routes.

approach

The island is well served by ferries and can also be easily reached by plane. The easiest thing is to find your way to Athens and then get on a small plane or ferry to Heraklion. From there, you can rent a car or hop on a bus to most of the climbing areas. A car is recommended. Some climbing areas would be tough to get to without one.

1.16.4. Evia 772 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.477359, 23.717770

summary

Evia offers among others Alpine and Sport routes near Athens

approach

Evia can be accesed by car from the Highway Athens - Thessaloniki. Also, there are numerous ferry connections. The most importants are from Rafina, Aidipsos and Glyfa

where to stay

Evia is a touristic place and there are lots of hotels and rooms as well as camping places

1.16.5. Ipeiros 762 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.672764, 20.820251

1.16.6. Central Greece 608 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.812387, 22.181935

summary

Officially central greece also includes Attica and Evia, but its probably better to leave these two as toplevel.

1.16.7. Macedonia 1,163 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 40.641333, 22.793758

1.16.8. Peloponnese 4,260 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.184722, 22.377336

1.16.9. Thessaly 1,218 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 39.466401, 22.452465

1.16.10. Thrace 371 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.035762, 25.562138

1.16.11. Ionian Islands 24 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.698934, 20.342921

summary

The administrative region does include all of the Ionian Islands with the exception of Kythera. It is a popular tourist destination and offers some climbing and Deep Water Soloing.

1.17. Hungary 3,000 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.141204, 19.446180

description

Check http://ludens.elte.hu/climb/climb.html for helpful information.

1.17.1. Budapest 551 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.485239, 19.107418

1.17.2. Börzsöny 18 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.928940, 18.932556

1.17.3. Bakony 359 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.229675, 17.743923

description

Bakony is a mountainous region in Transdanubia, Hungary. It forms the largest part of the Transdanubian Mountains. It is located north of Lake Balaton and lies almost entirely in Veszprém county.

1.17.4. Vértes 169 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.441683, 18.364652

1.17.5. Gerecse 622 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.662920, 18.476847

1.17.6. Velencei-hegység 34 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering and Top roping

Lat / Long: 47.274672, 18.662394

1.17.7. Mátra 232 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 47.913465, 19.955654

1.17.8. Pilis 365 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.705658, 18.917349

1.17.9. Zemplén 120 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.389392, 21.415338

1.17.10. Bükk 324 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Aid climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.011821, 20.507636

1.17.11. Balaton-felvidék 82 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.912939, 17.447737

1.17.12. Aggteleki Nemzeti Park 60 routes in Area

Summary:
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 48.492201, 20.608673

summary

Aggtelek National Park

description

National Park near the Hungarian-Slovakian border. The only crag in the area is at Aggtelek where climbing is only allowed during the annual "Aggtelek Kupa" (Aggtelek Climbing Festival).

1.17.13. Mecsek 64 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.144400, 18.265542

1.18. Iceland 320 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 65.085661, -17.422831

description

For outdoor climbing in Iceland it is mandatory to pay a fee for the bolt fund. The fund is used to finance the purchase of new bolts, hangers and anchors for the climbing areas. It is also used to takes care of the maintenance and development of the Tóft, outdoor tables and chamber at Hnappavellir.

You can pay the bolt fund fee at the Klifurhúsið climbing gym or by bank transfer ISK 2.500 which is valid for the rest of the year. For transfers, the account number is 111-26-100404 id: 410302-3810, please put in the explanation BOLTASJ.

IBAN: IS70 0111 2610 0404 4103 0238 10

https://klifurhusid.is/klifurfelag-reykjavikur/boltasjodur/

http://www.klifur.is/

http://www.isalp.is/en/category/crag

map: https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&t=p&source=embed&oe=UTF8&msa=0&msid=109102779225458753859.00048240a25d103bca6b8

1.18.1. Reykjavik 89 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 64.294235, -21.493712

1.18.2. Akureyri 45 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 65.804085, -19.110699

1.18.3. Vestfirðir 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 65.915547, -22.796533

1.18.4. East area 142 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 65.002050, -15.409380

summary

East Iceland hosts some of the islands best crags and weather conditions.

1.18.5. Urðaviti 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

summary

Basalt crack climbing on the beach

description

Basalt cliffline capped by scoria from the eruptions on Hiemæy island in the westman islands.

approach

Take ferry to Vestmannaeyjar and drive or walk north of town along road through lava debris out toward the landfill and urðaviti lighthouse. Park in the pullout near the lighthouse and access the gully nearest the lighthouse where theres a break in the cliff band possible to scramble down to beach via broken tables and blocks of scoria which transition into basalt cracks and overhangs. Pay close attention to the tides

where to stay

Stay in town. Camping and accomodation is available on the other side of Heimæy

ethic

All routes traditionally protected with natural anchors built and removed on top. No bolting for proximity to the sea for corrosion. Exc: titanium. Scoria blocks above are easily slung.

1.19. Ireland 2,816 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.167233, -8.608557

1.19.1. Dalkey Quarry 225 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.270666, -6.106943

1.19.2. Glendalough 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.006432, -6.396546

1.19.3. Ballykeefe Quarry 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 52.613179, -7.403106

1.19.4. Beaumont Quarry, Cork 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.891045, -8.432084

1.19.5. Old Head of Kinsale 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.612678, -8.537342

1.19.6. Gap of Dunloe 46 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.019927, -9.648982

summary

The Gap of Dunloe is located south west of Killarney, in County Kerry. It is an area of great importance to Cork and Kerry climbers as it offers many great routes at a good spread of grades, lengths and styles. The friction is generally excellent as is the quality of the rock and the setting is hard to beat. Despite all this it is a relatively quiet venue and as such, information on the climbing here is scarce.

access issues

The Gap of Dunloe is very popular with tourists. During the summer especially, jarveys take groups up and down the valley in their horse drawn carts. Because the road is so narrow traffic between oncoming cars and horses can become surprisingly congested. Please be courteous to the jarveys and consider parking at Kate Kearney‟s car park and walking from here (it only takes 10 minutes).

where to stay

Camping can be had at the Dunloe Golf Course, which is a 3 minute drive from the Gap. Plenty of other options are available locally, Killarney being one of the biggest tourist towns in the country. Kate Kearney‟s Cottage is a charming pub very conveniently situated for some post-climbing food and drink. There are plenty of climbing pictures on the walls and music is played weekly

ethic

A good relationship between climbers and locals is essential. Please do not litter in the Gap. Bring home whatever you bring with you, including fruit peels, climbing tape and cigarette butts.

1.19.7. Lough Gur, Limerick 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 52.517046, -8.527217

1.19.8. Knockroe Crag, Limerick 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 52.579386, -8.505295

1.19.9. Ardmore, Waterford 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.588683, -8.777060

1.19.10. The Burren 60 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.070498, -9.357214

1.19.11. County Donegal 2,062 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.712551, -7.860699

1.19.12. Knockhourough Crag, Limerick 0 routes in Crag

1.19.13. The Playbank, Co. Cavan 52 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 54.179162, -7.953039

1.19.14. Inis Mór 0 routes in Region

1.19.15. Sligo 66 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.308698, -8.545819

1.19.16. Cuas Croom 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

summary

The Cuas Croom Crag is situated almost 2km north of the car park at Cooncrome Harbour in Co. Kerry at approx.V443832. Cooncrome Harbour is located 3km NW of Caherciveen Bridge. This sea Crag sits to the west of the inlet called Coosafadda and it faces in a SW direction. A short scramble decent is required to reach the Crag. There are five routes on this single clean slab of old red sandstone, all of which are 10m in height. In big seas, the base platform of the routes is unsafe due to wash. The Crag is situated on commonage and access is no major issue, as long responsibility is shown.

description

The Cuas Croom Crag is situated almost 2km north of the car park at Cooncrome Harbour in Co. Kerry at approx.V443832. Cooncrome Harbour is located 3km NW of Caherciveen Bridge. This sea Crag sits to the west of the inlet called Coosafadda and it faces in a SW direction. A short scramble decent is required to reach the Crag. There are five routes on this single clean slab of old red sandstone, all of which are 10m in height. In big seas, the base platform of the routes is unsafe due to wash. The Crag is situated on commonage and access is no major issue, as long responsibility is shown.

access issues

A short scramble decent is required to reach the Crag.

approach

2km north of the car park at Cooncrome Harbour in Co. Kerry at approx.V443832. Cooncrome Harbour is located 3km NW of Caherciveen Bridge. This sea Crag sits to the west of the inlet called Coosafadda and it faces in a SW direction.

1.19.17. Roberts Head 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.732163, -8.314257

description

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

approach

Approach from Roberts Cove. From the village/beach at Roberts Cove take the clifftop path west along the coast until 2 WW2 watchman's huts come into sight. The first area described below is beneath the western (RH) hut. Please use the paths and do not cut across the crops in the field. Takes about 15 min

history

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

1.19.18. Carrauntoohil 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.19.19. Killary Crags 49 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.20. Italy 76,003 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.378899, 12.288080

1.20.1. Liguria 8,572 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.207427, 8.781998

1.20.2. Piemonte 7,746 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.183804, 7.907869

1.20.3. Val d'Aosta 1,616 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.728802, 7.370537

1.20.4. Lombardia 10,854 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.658641, 10.076465

1.20.5. Trentino-Alto Adige 13,719 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.447858, 11.283272

description

The Dolomites (Italian: Dolomiti; Ladin: Dolomites; German: Dolomiten; Venetian: Dołomiti: Friulian: Dolomitis) are a mountain range located in northeastern Italy. They form a part of Southern Limestone Alps and extend from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley (Pieve di Cadore) in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley (Val Sugana). The Dolomites are nearly equally shared between the provinces of Belluno, South Tyrol and Trentino.

There are also mountain groups of similar geological structure that spread over the River Piave to the east – Dolomiti d'Oltrepiave; and far away over the Adige River to the west – Dolomiti di Brenta (Western Dolomites). There is also another smaller group called Piccole Dolomiti (Little Dolomites) located between the provinces of Trentino, Verona and Vicenza (see the map).

One national park and many other regional parks are located in the Dolomites. In August 2009, the Dolomites were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

1.20.6. Veneto 6,719 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.733742, 11.873338

1.20.7. Friuli-Venezia Giulia 3,430 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.117742, 13.113722

1.20.8. Emilia-Romagna 1,403 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.440860, 11.039940

1.20.9. Toscana 3,072 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.205375, 10.852385

description

some topos (in Italian) at http://www.toscoclimb.it

1.20.10. Marche 929 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.367063, 13.176277

1.20.11. Umbria 921 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.978743, 12.500197

1.20.12. Lazio 3,432 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.713250, 12.811923

1.20.13. Abruzzo e Molise 1,488 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.113569, 14.180984

1.20.14. Puglia 542 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.094748, 16.730823

1.20.15. Campania e Lucania 973 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.733121, 15.326633

1.20.16. Calabria 265 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.040596, 16.282351

1.20.17. Sicily 3,402 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.397407, 13.730142

summary

Being an island in the very south of Italy, Sicily is an ideal climbing destination for the colder months of the year. It offers superb sport climbing on limestone, but also much more. https://climbingitaly.com/en/sicily/

description

Rope climbing areas:

  • San Vito lo Capo
    - you can't talk about climbing in Sicily without mentioning San Vito. This is the number 1 climbing destination here, and a truly world-class area with amazing sport climbing by the sea, as well as few multipitches. What makes this place special is that there are interesting routes also for beginners and advanced climbers, not just for pros.
  • Palermo
    lives a bit in the shadow of San Vito, although the sport climbing here is comparatively good. There is more focus on trad and multipitch climbing here
  • When it gets too hot at the coast, there are good options in the mountains - Parco delle Madonie being the prime example, but also the area around Etna

  • The south-east of Sicily is a bit of hidden gem - areas around the cities of Ragusa and Siracusa feature countless crags in the many canyons here. If you are an ambitious crusher, this is your place to be as the climbing tends to be on the harder side.

Bouldering:: not too many people heard about the bouldering in Sicily, which is a shame because there are two great areas here, and both on sandstone blocks.

  • Bosco Scorace
    - new crag near San Vito with around 200 lines on the blocks
  • Bronte Blocks
    - blocks under the slopes of Etna with around 300 boulder problems

Equipment needed

The minumum needed is a 60m rope and 15 quickdraws as that's sufficient for most routes here, but it's better to bring a 70m rope and 18 quickdraws so that you can climb almost everything. For multipitches you will need extra trad gear and slings

Guidebooks

The best source is La Roccia di Sole which covers the whole Sicily (some minor crags were left out). The San Vito area has it's own guidebook which is regularly updated, Sicily-Rock - which is available for purchase in the El Bahira camping.

  • Paid topos are availble in the app ClimbAdvisor - on Google play and Appstore. ClimbAdvisor covers most of Sicily including the bouldering areas, but leaves out the south-east unfortunately.

Rest day tips There's plenty to do in Sicily, even if you didn't want to climb at all.

north-west

  • Erice - nice historical village with great view
  • Zingaro national park - ideal for hiking or staying on a beach, but as of 2020 still closed due to a local fire
  • Hot springs - they are a bit further from San Vito, but definitely worth it. For free.
  • Palermo - nice city centre if you have the driver skills to survive getting through the traffic.
  • Tempio di Segesta - ancient temple and archeological area
  • Monreale - historic town near Palermo with a famous cathedral

south-west

  • Parco archeologico di Selinute - nice archeological site
  • Scala dei Turchi - impressive cliffs above the sea
  • Vally of the temples - famous archeological site near Agrigento

north-east

  • Etna - unmissable volcano, although during the climbing season might be very cold and requiring winter gear
  • Taormina - nice historical city with great view of Etna

south-east

  • Three historical cities, each of them a gem - Ragusa Ibla, Noto and Siracusa
  • Cavagrande del Cassibile - Sicilian Grand canyon, great for hiking
  • Pantalica - canyon with a large necropolis, a nice hike as well

central sicily from north to south

  • Cefalù - nice historical city
  • Parco della Madonna - impressive mountain range with endless hiking posibilities
  • Enna - nice historical town with great view over a large part of Sicily
  • Villa Romana del Casale - famous Roman villa with impressive mosaics

approach

you can fly to Palermo, Trapani or Catania. It's advisable to rent a car, as public transport in Sicily isn't the best. If San Vito lo Capo is your only destination, it's possible to manage without a car.

where to stay

Plenty of campings, guesthouses or airbnb's are available all around Sicily. As climbers come here from October to May, the prices are generally lower since it's outside of the standard tourist season.

1.20.18. Sardinia 6,725 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.004652, 9.008808

summary

Pleasant spring and autumn destination with marvellous seaside crags and lots of potential.

description

1.20.19. San Marino 195 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.935485, 12.460393

1.21. Jersey 118 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.114194, -2.186056

description

Beautiful Island with lots of trad routes along its shore. Check the tides before you go as many routes can't be accessible at high tide

1.21.1. Beauport 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 49.177328, -2.209593

1.21.2. Bumbley Buttress 0 routes in Area

1.21.3. Dangle dell 52 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 49.255124, -2.251065

1.21.4. Grosnez Point 0 routes in Area

1.21.5. Guano Zawn 0 routes in Area

1.21.6. Jewel crag 0 routes in Area

1.21.7. L'ille Agois 0 routes in Area

1.21.8. La Corbière 0 routes in Area

1.21.9. La Cotte de St Brelade 18 routes in Area

Summary:

1.21.10. La moye 0 routes in Area

1.21.11. La Nethe Falaise 0 routes in Area

1.21.12. La prison 0 routes in Area

1.21.13. La vallette 0 routes in Area

1.21.14. Le Puleq 0 routes in Area

1.21.15. Le vyi 0 routes in Area

1.21.16. Mourier Valley 0 routes in Area

1.21.17. Plemont 0 routes in Area

1.21.18. Portelet 31 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 49.166307, -2.170168

1.21.19. Rabbit's Bottom 0 routes in Area

1.21.20. Radar Buttress 0 routes in Area

1.21.21. Rouge nez 0 routes in Area

1.21.22. Sheep crag 0 routes in Area

1.21.23. Sorel Point 0 routes in Area

1.21.24. The pinnacle 0 routes in Area

1.21.25. The Rabbit's Head 0 routes in Area

1.21.26. Trespass point 0 routes in Area

1.21.27. Wolf's Caves 0 routes in Area

1.22. Kosovo 18 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.564527, 20.916865

1.22.1. Peć 0 routes in Crag

1.22.2. Berim 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.900574, 20.580897

1.22.3. Prizren 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.226600, 20.742786

1.22.4. Guri i Plakës 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.674180, 20.960250

1.23. Latvia 0 routes in Region

1.23.1. Riga 0 routes in Crag

1.24. Liechtenstein 32 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.141199, 9.552965

1.24.1. Drei Schwestern 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 47.175867, 9.572395

summary

Impressive views to the Rhine valley, Alpstein, Walgau, Rätikon and Lake of Constance.

description

The Three Sisters are three peaks of a mountain chain in Rätikon, a mountain range of the western central alps. The main peak, the size of the sisters, has a height of 2053 m above sea level, the middle sister located north-east of it reaches a height of 2,048 meters and the north-eastern little sister is 2,034 meters high.

The three peaks mark the border between the Austrian state of Vorarlberg and Liechtenstein. West to the Rhine Valley and north to the Walgau the three sisters are very geographical dominant because of their advamced northwestern location and their steep rugged rock. Through a well-developed trail system they are easily accessible and are often ascended.

approach

Walk from Planken (FL) in 3 hours via Gafadura hut.

history

The first ascent was made probably by hunter, the main peak was beaten by a tourist on 10 June 1870, the Scottish mountaineer John Sholto Douglass, which was accompanied by the hunter Wieser from Feldkirch.

1.24.2. St. Katharinabrunnen 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 47.057952, 9.513250

summary

Few sparse boulders right at the borders between Switzerland and Liechtenstein. Agressive but good grip rock.

access issues

You can park your car at the parking lot, just 50m away from the 1st boulder, located at the very end of Balzers village. [Öffentlicher Parkplatz, St. Kathrinabrunna, 9496 Balzers, Liechtenstein - GPS : 47.058772, 9.512204]

ethic

Boulders are probably located on a private field/forest, and you might have to cross it to reach the boulders. Please respect the crop (if any) and avoid to damage the ground. Leave no trace behind.

1.24.3. Kletterturm LAV Malbun 11 routes in Artificial

Summary:
Rock climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 47.105045, 9.604464

summary

Kletterturm mit Eis-, Drytooling- und Sportkletterrouten auf dem Dach des Täli-Sessellifts (Talstation)

description

1.24.4. Kelchle 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.120716, 9.595999

description

Markanter Felszacken mit Gipfelkreuz

access issues

Eher brüchiger Fels

approach

Malbun via Sassförkle in Richtung Schönberg

1.24.5. Naafkopf 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 47.062064, 9.602040

summary

Der Naafkopf ist der dritthöchste Gipfel Liechtensteins, auf dessen höchsten Punkt die Länder Liechtenstein, Schweiz und Österreich sich angrenzen.

description

Der Klettergarten befindet sich unweit von der Pfälzerhütte entfernt und bietet interessante kurze Kletterrouten bis zum 7. Schwierigkeitsgrad in meist festem Kalk.

Die NW-Platte erreicht man über die Notzhalda (T4/T5). Der Zustieg ist steil über Geröllfelder. Die NW-Platte hat wenige NH und verlangt die Nutzung von mobilen Zwischensicherungen.

where to stay

Pfälzerhütte

1.25. Lithuania 0 routes in Region

1.25.1. Bonobo 0 routes in Gym

summary

Lead climbing and bouldering gym with climbing specific exercise appliances, dry-tooling lead routes, natural light and more.

description

In BONOBO climbing center we have both lead climbing and bouldering walls with a variety of angles ranging from positive (slabs) to steep overhangs and the climbing hall has air conditioning as well as natural light most of the time during the day. We also have a training room full of training appliances such as a 2017 Moonboard, a Zlag board, campus and finger boards, a treadmill, dumbbells and a bench for pressing weights. Besides climbing itself we sell (and rent) climbing equipment, tasty sodas and coffee of course.

1.25.2. Vilnius 0 routes in Crag

1.26. Luxembourg 283 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.779547, 6.098995

1.26.1. Berdorf 230 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.831650, 6.344608

summary

An excellent but small sandstone crag in Luxembourg, close to the German border. Often crowded on sunny weekends.

description

The "Wanterbaach" crag in Berdorf, Luxembourg offers excellent climbing on sandstone in a fairy tale forest. There are about 174 routes in total with the majority of popular routes being 20 to 30 meters long and graded 5c to 7b. Most of the routes are well protected with glue-in bolts. Gear: 60 m rope, 13 quickdraws.

Crowds: Berdorf is usually very busy on sunny weekends, during school holidays of the surrounding countries, on Luxembourgish bank holidays, etc. An impression of how busy it gets: https://youtu.be/0mTddAKFeLw

The classic climbs start at 5c and the grading can feel hard if you're not used to the sandstone and because some popular routes have a though start. Climbers comfortable in the 6c to 7a range, will find the most 3 star routes to choose from. With 25 routes in the 7c to 8c range, Berdorf is attractive to pros too.

As a guideline for climbers who are just starting out: You'll probably have the most fun if you're able to lead 6a to 6b indoors. The routes graded easier than 5b are oftentimes intimidating, very short, or not enjoyable because of ropedrag.

A new guidebook (Berdorf Wanterbaach) was published in February 2021. It contains not only Berdorf but also the crag at Audin-le-tiche ( in France, direct beyond the Luxemburgish border at Esch sur Alzette ) the Guidebook is actually available at Caspers Climbing shop ( in Mamer and on their online shop )

The guidebook "Climbing in Berdorf, 2nd Edition" is still available at the campsite "Martbusch", other places in town and online.

Additional route information, combi's, pretty pictures and video's can be found on the official(?) instagram account.

access issues

To be allowed to climb here, you need to be member of a climbing federation which is part of the UIAA or IFSC. Such as the FLERA, DAV, NKBV, [...].

approach

From "Martbusch" camping site, walk towards the end of the road. Keep and turn right at the end of the road. Now in the forest, continue walking for some minutes until you see decending stairs to your left. These lead into the crag.

where to stay

There are two campsites in Berdorf: "Belle Vue 2000" and "Martbusch". Both are popular with climbers. If you're looking for more comfort, the "Trail Inn" is also very close to the climbing.

ethic

Used chalk? USE A BRUSH! Climbing below your limit? Try climbing without chalk.

1.26.2. Centre Sportif Coque 0 routes in Gym

approach

d'COQUE 2, rue Léon Hengen L-1745 Luxembourg +352 43 60 60 1

1.26.3. Dillingen 53 routes in Field

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.853406, 6.298865

description

It is not allowed to climb in this area. Below are the routes of people who did so anyway.

approach

The exact location is unknown.

1.26.4. Red Rock climbing wall 0 routes in Gym

1.27. North Macedonia 844 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.593650, 21.703544

summary

Macedonia is a haven for rock climbers, with a variety of stunning locations to explore. The country's diverse terrain offers everything from challenging multi-pitch routes to beginner-friendly bouldering spots. Whether you're an experienced climber or just starting out, there's something for everyone in Macedonia.

description

One of the most popular climbing destinations in Macedonia is Matka Canyon, located just outside of Skopje. The canyon walls are home to a variety of sport climbing routes, ranging from easy to difficult. There are also several trad and multi-pitch routes to challenge more experienced climbers.

Another popular climbing area is Demir Kapija, located in the southern part of the country. Demir Kapija is known for its excellent limestone rock and its abundance of sport climbing routes. There are also several trad and multi-pitch routes to challenge more experienced climbers.

If you're looking for a bouldering destination, Prilep is the place to go. Prilep is home to a massive boulder field with thousands of problems to explore. There are problems for all levels of climbers, from beginner to expert.

No matter what your skill level, you're sure to find a great place to climb in Macedonia. The country's stunning scenery and variety of climbing terrain make it a perfect destination for climbers of all ages and abilities.

1.27.1. Kadina 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.830141, 21.587738

summary

Climbing season: The crag is south-west orientated and provides perfect conditions for climbing in the period from October till beginning of May. Good climbing is also possible in the summer, only inside in the cave.

description

Equipment: The routes are up to 30 m long, and you will need 60m single rope. You will need up to 15 quick draws.

approach

The crag is located on 34 km, South-East direction from Centrum of Skopje, or chronologically 1 hour. Drive towards Zelenikovo village, through the suburbs Usje, Pintija, Drachevo, and after 15 min of driving you will pass Oreshani and Zelenikovo village. Right after is the Zelenikovo village rail station.

When you enter the village station Zelenikovo (you cannot miss) you continue on the road to the right from the railway, and in front there will be a mini square, (more likely-clearing) where the city bus line-67 turns back (this is the last station).

From there on, keep on the road, straight, and you will soon start uphill to the large “S” turn. Keep uphill and on the next left 180 turn, keep left, passing by small village Strahojadica (on the right), there will be panoramic view on the terrain in front. This road will take you to the rustic village Gumalevo. As soon as you pass Strahojadica, the dirt road comes next. Keep left. Do not turn. It lasts only 3km. Just keep straight on the road, and don’t turn at all. The dirt road is suitable for most vehicles, but there are many deep holes and very muddy after rain. When you enter in village Gumalevo, drive until you exit the village, and right after 50m from the exit there is parking on the right side where you can park your vehicle. Park here: 41°50'03.2"N 21°35'56.1"E https://goo.gl/maps/X8aAz6HPRcVhPYkJ6

From there you continue on foot (see photo attached for the start of the track), and right after the sheepfold there is a smaller track heading down to the left. Turn left on the hiking trail which extends through tobacco fields, and a view of the crag will eventually appear in the distance. Continue on muddy trail through small forest of bushes which lead to Kadina Cave.

where to stay

In Skopje or in tent under the rock!

history

The sport climbing crag Kadina is a newly found crag close to the Macedonian capital city, Skopje. This wonderful crag waited long to be found by the Macedonian sport climbers and finally happened in 2013, when Goran Kuzmanovski alias Malik, discovered it. This crag is one of a kind. Very soon after, Vladimir Trpovski, Dimitar Popov and Kire Serafimovski climbed the first lines there. Thank you to the members who helped in bolting this crag-- Macedonian sport climbing clubs SKK VARDAR and SKK Extreme, like Milan, Dino, Vane, Zuti, Viktor, David, Marta,Lide, Maja, Ici, Tomi, Zorko, Jozi and Miha.

1.27.2. Matka 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.950202, 21.301854

1.27.3. Bislimska klisura 88 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.046388, 21.764486

summary

Bislimska klisura (Ravenue)

description

Bislimska klisura is located in Kumanovo, in the north part of North Macedonia, just before the Macedonian-Serbian border. Bislimska Llisura is the canyon of the Pcinja river and is near the Pcinja village. You can find the gate entrance in the canyon which starts with the last house in the village.Bislimska klisura is located in Kumanovo area in the north part of Macedonia, just before the Macedonian-Srbian border. Bislimska klisura is the canyon of the Pcinja river and is near the Pcinja village. Exactly the gate entrance in the canyon starts with the last house in the village.

access issues

From Kumanovo town you should take the road for Pcinja village.

From Skopje after the first pay toll, driving on the highway, from the left side, you will find Romanovce village. On the right side, there is a ground (dirty) exit for the quarry, drive that way on the ground (dirty) road to the village Pcinja. Drive in the village till the gate of the entrance of the ravine. Park the car there and continue walking, after 10 minutes walking the rock will appear from your right side.

approach

where to stay

Free camping is possible and rent a room in the village, also Hotels in Kumanovo.

ethic

For all visitors of climbing sites:

  1. Park where permitted or marked for parking.

  2. Move and climb in arranged and guided directions.

  3. Do not destroy the plant and animal world, do not mark it and do not break the rock      and other objects.

  4. Do not comment when someone climbs.

  5. The work of a foreigner adorns the environment.

  6. Take the trash with you.

  7. In the event of an accident, help within your possibilities and call for help.

history

Vladimir Trpovski, Zdravko Petrovski and Stojan HadziJeftimov are opened 100 routes during the Corona pandemic at 2020 and they made new climbing ares in North Macedonia.

1.27.4. Demir Kapija 286 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.408320, 22.259333

summary

Demir Kapija one of the best places in Macedonia for climbing, mountaineering, trekking, fishing and other outdoor activities.

description

Now there are 16 sectors for sport climbing, more than 200 routes have varying category of difficulty from 4 to 8c, and about 20 bolting multipitchs, and infinite potential for old and new TRAD routes.

Topo: http://www.climbing-macedonia.com/demir-kapija1

access issues

Many rocks are located near the roads and infrastructures, that gives fast access to most of the climbing sectors; most of it are suitable for beginners and groups with children. Most of the rocks are limestone but an hour away there are also sandstone and granite rocks for climbing, mountaineering and bouldering. Location of walls allows you to find a place for climbing at any time of the year. In the summertime everyone tries to hide in the shadow. In winter people can get joy from climbing in the sun light areas where rocks give their warmth.

approach

Nearest sectors are only 10 minutes walk from the center of Demir Kapija. Most of sectors reached from the parking place between the tunnels - (5 minutes by car) Demir Kapija’s community locates in the southern part of Macedonia next to the highway Skopje – Athens. The distance from Skopje is 117 km, which takes about an hour by car or two hours by train ‘Skopje – Gevgelija’. Distance to the border with Greece is about 80 km. The nearest international airports are: in Skopje (Alexander the Great Airport), in Ohrid (Ohrid St. Paul the Apostle Airport, 195 Km), in Thessaloniki (International Airport “Macedonia”, 121 Km). From one point to another you can get by bus or by taxi. Also you can order a transfer from an airport.

where to stay

ethic

Please do not spend the night in the canyon under the climbing routes, it is unethical, the nature will be destroyed and you will not contribute to the development of sports tourism in Demir Kapiјa.

history

Although the first rout in canyon Demir Kapija was climbed (by our information) in 1974, and rocks have attracted sportsman for a long time, the most climbing activities in this area has been developing just in the last five years. The Number of routes and sectors have grown so fast and now, for climbers, tourists and backpackers, there are hostel and a nice place for camping "Rock land Camp".

1.27.5. Mavrovo 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.701518, 20.647316

description

Mavrovo is a well known tourist destination located in the high mountains in the western part of Macedonia. It's one of the best destinations in the country, popular for outdoor tourism and known for it’s huge potential and mystical beauty. It is a hot spot for skiing and ice climbing during the winter, mountain biking, hiking, fishing, kayaking and climbing during the summer. It is open all year round-- a cradle for all kinds of outdoor sports and activities. Macedonian sport climbers admire the beautiful and vivid rocks in the gorgeous canyon on Radika river.

Topo: http://www.climbing-macedonia.com/mavrovo1

access issues

Drive from Mavrovo- Mavrovi Anovi towards Debar, trough the canyon of Radika river. Follow the river, which is on your right side all the time, until the passing of the small bridge, which will switch the river side from your right to your left side. Right after the bridge, called Krivi Most, approx. 12 km from Mavrovi Anovi, on your left you will find a parking lot.

approach

Park deeply, close to the river as much as possible, so you can see your vehicle from the cave. Right across the parking, look up, and you will spot the great cave. The approach to the cave starts, across the road, next by the concrete drain, on your left side. Follow the steep trail, until you get to the foot of the cave, where a short via ferrata

where to stay

history

Back in 2012, Kire Serafimovski and Vladimir Trpovski discovered the great breathtaking cave, which is pure climbing heaven. Years after, the first sport climbing routes were established. In that time, climbers obtained the permits for climbing from the authorities of the National Park “Mavrovo”, collected funds for bolts and equipment, planning and etc. but the steel-made bolts prevailed and a new sport climbing crag was born. Everything began when Vladimir Trpovski, Dimitar Popov and Aleksandar Brborovic climbed the first routes in late May 2013. Now we can proudly say that Mavrovo offers great opportunities and potential for sport climbing. We are very grateful for the support and cooperation from the National Park “Mavrovo” as well to Zdravko Petrovski, the President of the Sport Climbing Club EXTREME –Skopje for their help in the realization of this very important project, Sport Climbing Crag-Mavrovo.

1.27.6. Ohrid 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.040241, 20.801545

1.27.7. Prespa 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.934955, 20.939255

access issues

Prespa is located in South Western Macedonia on the coast of Lake Prespa near the border of Albania. Stenje is a village on the coast of Lake Prespa about 50km from town Bitola. You can reach it from Ohrid lake trough mountain Galicica or from Bitola trough Resen, Otesevo and Stenje. You can park your vehicle after the village Stenje, next to last wood, which is on the path between a lake and green field. After 500m of waking you will come to the cliffs located on the beach of the lake.

1.27.8. Pelister 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.039995, 21.234924

description

Climbing in National park Pelister mainly is in tree climbing sectors.

1.27.9. Prilep 154 routes in Field

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.391206, 21.558369

description

The city of Prilep is surrounded by numerous hills that have vast granite boulder fields currently undeveloped. Most of the existing boulders have been listed on 27crags however this page will supplement that source. The existing fields in Kamena baba may be on private land so ensure you are responsible and respectful.

approach

10 minutes from the city center by car

1.27.10. Plocha 112 routes in Crag

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.621588, 22.314743

summary

Plocha is one of the first and best arranged places in Macedonia for climbing. Suitable for climbing multipich routes and sport routes with grades from 3a to 8a. Within the place there are several boulders

description

Climbing locality Plocha is located in the south-eastern part of Macedonia along the highway Shtip - Radovish.

Plocha belongs to one of the best arranged climbing areas in the country with clearly marked access paths as well as fluorescent foils for easier orientation in the night hours.

The composition of the rock is Granite mixed with admixtures of basalt, in certain parts covered with moss which makes the routes very slippery after the rain and sometimes makes it impossible to climb.

The central rock is the largest and most suitable for climbing, with north-eastern exposure and the end parts with north exposure. The main crag is 70 to 90 meters high.

The central rock itself is naturally divided by two horizontal terraces which extend over the entire width of the rock. It offers excellent conditions for safe standing on the anchors.

Most of the routes are covered with bolts, and the traditional routes are left in the condition of the first climb, only the anchors are with bolts.

access issues

Plocha is located in the southeastern part of the Republic of Macedonia between the cities of Stip (23km) ans Radovish (13km) next to the highway M6. Plocha is 115 km away from Skopje. The closest access from Bulgaria is through the border crossing of Novo Selo, also from the other border crossings on the Macedonian-Bulgarian border. Approach from the Greece is closest to the border crossing of Dojran but you can also come from the border crossing of Bogorodica - Gevgelija.

where to stay

The climbing hut is located just below the main rock and has 12 beds in two rooms with solid kitchen and toilet. The lighting is with the help of solar panels. Next to the house there are two concrete places where you can light a fire or perform other outdoor activities. The routes are 5 to 15 minutes away from the hut through marked paths. The stay is with appointments and reservations.

1.27.11. Balvan 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.843316, 22.208702

summary

Тhe newest bouldering areas in Macedonia that has yet to be developed.

description

At the exit from the village of Gorni Balvan there is a rocky area that is ideal for bouldering. About three kilometars away is the neighboring larger village of Dolni Balvan, and fifteen kilometers from the balvan district is the city of Shtip. The place can be reached by driving along the Shtip-Kochani regional road.

history

The first boulder routes in Balvan are made in the summer of 2023

1.27.12. Stogovi 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.302133, 21.603120

summary

Nestled below the peak of Konjarnik (1550m), at an elevation of approximately 1500 meters, lies a hidden granite climbing paradise near the village of Prilepec. The site, located on Selechka Mountain, boasts an array of challenging climbs on the rocky faces of Stogot, Ostra karpa, and Orle, with more awaiting intrepid climbers to conquer. While the rocks may appear mossy from afar, upon closer inspection, they reveal themselves to be solid and of exceptional quality.

approach

To reach the village of Prilepec, take a left turn from the main regional road connecting Prilep to Bitola. Continue driving towards the Monastery of St. Nikola, situated above the village. The rocks come into view as you approach the monastery from the village, and there are parking spots near the monastery. A one-hour walk from the Monastery will lead you to the base of Ostra Karpa.

where to stay

Accommodation is available at the monastery, offering the advantages of sturdy construction, although there may be drawbacks related to current renovations affecting hygiene.

Alternatively, you can opt for tent accommodation on the plateau situated between the peaks Konjarnik and Kolusovets, just above Orle rock. There is a drinking water source located in the St. Nikola Monastery.

For a more adventurous stay, consider a possible bivouac on the Dimeva ledge, offering space for a maximum of 2 tents. This can be set up within the tent or along the surrounding recesses.

1.28. Repubblika ta’ Malta 1,259 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 35.928907, 14.421488

summary

Malta has about 700 sport routes, and 1500 trad routes. The majority are seldom climbed and don't suffer 'polishing'. There are many deep water solo and sea cliff traversing routes.

description

The Maltese rock sequence is divided into five main layers of limestone. Each layer has a distinct composition, as well as distinct properties. The lower coralline limestone is the oldest, and lowest layer. It is hard, and climbable. Victoria Lines, Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley), Irdum Irxaw (Mistra), Ghar Lapsi, Wied Babu, Wied il-Mielaħ, Wied ix-Xlendi are lower coralline limestone. The upper coralline limestone is the youngest, and topmost layer. It is also hard, and climbable. Il-Latnija (Mellieħa Cave) and San Blas (Gozo) are upper coralline limestone.

access issues

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

approach

Sport Climbing in Malta & Gozo (2013) is the most recent guidebook containing ONLY sport routes. An update is in production and will be published in 2020.

Malta Rock Climbing the comprehensive guide (2007) is currently out of print but CAN BE RENTED, and contains trad routes.

where to stay

English is fairly widely spoken in Malta, so finding accommodation is relatively easy, but not particularly cheap. If you will rely on public transport, then Pembroke, Bugibba, or Mosta are a good choice.

ethic

Don't bolt here. There is a well established climbing community. If you seek to add routes contact either the Malta Climbing Club (UIAA affiliated) or the Malta Rock Climbing Club in Malta, or Stevie Haston in Gozo. All new routes are now being equipped with titanium bolts and anchors.

history

Fishermen and pirates have climbed these cliffs forever. The British forces in the 50's and 60's established a number of routes, mostly in Wied Babu, Xaqqa and Ghar Lapsi. Many new trad routes were set up in the 80s by visiting Brit climbers. Sport climbing took off in the 90s with many trad routes being retrobolted but also many new sport routes and crags being developed since then.

1.28.1. Gozo 316 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 36.047906, 14.252440

description

The smaller sister island of Malta, Gozo, differs in many ways from the main island. The climbing, however, is just as spectacular, from stunning sea cliffs to shady inland crags, all in perfect limestone.

approach

The island is reachable by ferry only. For further information regarding ferry times and fares, refer to http://www.gozochannel.com

ethic

Don't bolt here. There is a well established climbing community. If you seek to add routes contact the GOZO CLIMBING ASSOCIATION in Gozo. By donating to the association, you can support the efforts to maintain the routes so that routes can be equipped with titanium bolts and anchors.

1.28.2. Comino 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 36.011634, 14.334454

description

The smallest island of the Maltese archipelago offers various trad climbing possibilities in gorgeous surroundings.

approach

Access to the island is by boat only. Ferries are commuting regularly from Malta and Gozo.

1.28.3. Malta 942 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 35.892399, 14.444293

summary

The main island of the Maltese archipelago

1.29. Moldova 42 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.198945, 28.475238

1.29.1. Văratic 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.914414, 27.280114

summary

description

approach

You can reach the rocks from the bridge in Văratic, or from Duruitoarea. In both cases you have to drive dirt road. After heavy rain it might be not possible to pass with normal car. The road, despite its quality, is very busy, as it makes it possible to shorten the distance when travelling between villages.

where to stay

You can find good spots for a tent placement on the map above. The only place with shadow is near the forest (1.5 km away in direction to Duruitoarea). As an alternative — you can stay at Duruita Camping in the village Duruitoarea (7 km), or at Casa Varatic (4 km).

history

In 2017 I was searching for rock climbing locations in Moldova by looking at satellite images of the country. I noticed this place. Together with Marina we came here by bicycles. We were impressed by the overhanging grottes here. In 2020 we bolted a highline and first sport climbing routes.

1.29.2. Cobani / Кобань 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 47.758552, 27.327066

summary

Easy climbing routes at the north of Moldova.

description

https://kotelnikov.blog/en/moldova-cobani/

One of the few places suitable for rock climbing in Moldova is Cobani. The village is located on the north of the country in Glodeni District. On the edge of the village there are toltres with the altitude of ~12 meters – Stînca Mare.

approach

The easiest way is to go by car from Chișinău or Bălți.

where to stay

Tents can be placed directly under and above the rocks.

history

Since the 80s, tourists and mountaineers from Bălți have been training in this region as well as in Butești. In 2006 the Mountaineering Club of RM held here the championship of RM in rock climbing.

In autumn 2017 I was in this place and was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the breed. In June 2018, me and a group of Chisinau enthusiasts bolted several sport climbing routes here.

1.29.3. Duruitoarea 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 47.871944, 27.265817

summary

1.29.4. Old Orhei 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Top roping and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.302691, 28.963958

1.29.5. Socola 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Top roping

Lat / Long: 47.906537, 28.812509

1.29.6. Chișinău 0 routes in Crag

1.29.7. Verejeni 0 routes in Field

1.29.8. Fetesti 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.167163, 27.113005

description

Climbing routes on the big wall. Were made in 2021, by TopAlpineClub.

approach

Near village road there is a path that goes directly to the wall

1.30. Montenegro 548 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.715567, 19.249058

1.30.1. Podgorica 234 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.517595, 19.349064

description

Podgorica is a capital city of Montenegro, with around one hundred fifty thousand inhabitants. It is situated in the central part of the country, at the crossroads of several significant travel routes leading from the seaside to the continental part of the country. It has a good geographical position, between the coastal and mountainous belt. It has the sub-Mediterranean climate which is characterized by warm and dry summers and mild and rainy winters. It represents a good starting point for climbing activities in the crags in its surroundings, in the Morača Canyon, the Mrtvica Canyon, the Cijevna Canyon, the crag above Fundina, Ostroške grede, Kučke Mountains... .

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approach

Podgorica as a centre of the state is well-connected (in terms of transportation) with all towns in the Republic, bigger towns of the neighbourhing countries, and with European centres. International Airport Golubovci is located 12 kms away from the city, while the airport in Tivat is about 75 kms away. The Belgrade - Bar railway line runs through Podgorica: for more information on train timetable dial:+38281633663. For further information on bus lines dial: +38281620430. Best information on domestic and international flights can be found on the website of the Montenegrin airline: www.montenegro-airlines.cg.yu

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where to stay

There is a large number of hotels in the city, the list of which along with addresses and other information can be found on the website of the municipality of Podgorica www.podgorica.cg.yu. As there are no developed campgrounds in Podgorica and we know that outdoor sports enthusiasts are not the clients of the four and five star hotels, we can recommend the cheapest hotel in Podgorica, in the Smokovac suburb www.hotelizvor.cg.yu. We hope that things regarding the campsites in Podgorica will change soon.

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1.30.2. Kučke planine 21 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.597043, 19.546478

description

A group of mountains known by the common name Kučke mountains is stretching north-east of Podgorica. Its highest peak is Surdup Peak, with an altitude of 2184masl. There are 14 peaks with the elevation over 2000 metres. In this massif there are also two mountain lakes: Bukumirsko Lake and Rikavačko Lake. Bukumirsko Lake is situated in the northern massif of these mountains, about 45 kms north of Podgorica, that is to say some 40 kilometres south of Kolašin. The elevation of the valley in which the lake is located is 1300 to 1350 metres and the valley is home for several katuns inhabited in the period from June to September. Kučke Mountains have been discovered by the mountain lovers rather late. The beginnings of alpine ascents date back to the end of the nineties of the last century when the members of the Alpine Section of Belgrade climbed several first ascents.

How to Get There

The lake can be reached along several travel routes, the common characteristic of which is a very bad gravel road in the last kilometres. Podgorica-Kržanja-Kastrat-Bljuštura-Bukumirsko Lake - around 45 kms. Asphalt road from Podgorica to Kastrat, further on gravel road for some 15 kilometres. Podgorica-Bioče-Veruša-Mokra-Bukumirsko Lake - about 50 kms. Asphalt road from Podgorica to Topli potok (few kilometres away from Veruša), further on the gravel road for some 5 to 6 kms. Kolašin-Mateševo-Veruša-Mokra-Bukumirsko Lake - around 40 kms. Asphalt road from Kolašin to Topli potok, further on a gravel road for some 5 to 6 kms.

Buses run along the road Podgorica-Veruša, Podgorica-Kržanja and Kolašin-Mateševo, therefore in combinations bus-hike, the latter takes 8 to 15kms (usually with the loaded rucksack on your back). Bus regularly departs from Podgorica only in the morning term, afternoon departures and departures starting from Kolašin depend on incredibly large number of different factors, so relying on those is not exactly the smartest thing to do.

Accommodation

In the valley there are many places suitable for camping, all depending on season, camper's tiredness or the want to socialise, from katuns and their immediate surroundings, to the meadows between Torač Peak and Pasjak Peak. There are springs with drinkable water in a totally satisfactory number. Since there are no mountain huts or developed bivouacs, tents are necessary.

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1.30.3. Durmitor 42 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.130255, 19.073069

description

Mt Durmitor is one of the most interesting massifs in Montenegro. It belongs to the system of the Dinarides and is situated in the north-western area of Montenegro. The west face of Mt Durmitor is bounded by the Piva River Canyon, the northern and north-eastern part by the Tara River Canyon, the southern part by the Komarnica River Canyon, while to the east over the vast Jezerska visoravan (Lake Plateau) Mt Durmitor continues to the Mt Sinjajevina. On this mountain there are around 50 peaks with the elevation over 2000 meters above sea level, 18 glacial lakes, many glacial cirques, mountain passes, and a large number of rocks with a height of even up to 700 m. All this is concentrated in the small area which makes it one of the most attractive massifs in our country. Peaks and rocks of Mt Durmitor provide extraordinary conditions for rock and alpine climbing, both in summer and winter conditions. The climate of the Durmitor massif is very harsh, typically alpine. Summers are short and cool, while winters are long with heavy snowfalls. The largest settlement at the foot of Mt Durmitor is Žabljak. It is the centre of mountain tourism in Montenegro. The development of mountaineering and rock climbing on Mt Durmitor has a humble history, after all, as in all mountain areas in Montenegro. Mt Durmitor areas have relatively late discovered their beauties to the broader circle of mountain lovers. The more serious alpine ascents and traditional climbs were registered as late as in the 30s of the last century and were performed by alpinists from Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia... After the war alpinists have visited Mt Durmitor more intensively. At that time the mountaineering and rock climbing camps (at which certain rocks were systematically covered) were mostly organised. In the 50s Mt Durmitor was visited by alpinists from Slovenia, Serbia, Croatia, Poland. It was also a period in which the largest number of first ascents in the rocks of Mt Durmitor was performed. The crags are all limestone, but there are so many of them that it is really not hard to find the one which suits us with its solidness, difficulty and aesthetic. So far about some hundred routes have been climbed - some rock routes and some snow and mixed routes, but being scattered in various guidesbooks, clubs and organisations, data on those are pretty unavailable. For the largest number of routes in Mt Durmitoru which were climbed 40, 50 or more years ago, we have used the book „The Rocks of Yugoslavia" by the author Zlatko Smerke as a source. Routes in the rocks of Mt Durmitor peaks have been rarely repeated, so for the largest number of routes we have not been able to obtain additional information which would serve for comparison with the old route descriptions and the future climbers should bear this in mind.

How to Get There

If you're coming to Durmitor by car from the direction of the south, from the Adriatic coast main road over Podgorica (capital city), you can choose between two travel routes. One forks from Podgorica towards Nikšić, further on over Šavnik to Žabljak. The other travel route follows the major main road in the continental region which connects the north and the south. It runs from Podgorica toward Kolašin to Mojkovac, and from here it continues along the Tara River Canyon to Žabljak. Both travel routes in the winter months might be impassable due to the heavy snowfalls. If you are coming to Montenegro by plane, two international airports are available - in Podgorica, about 170 kms and Tivat about 250 kms far from Žabljak. Bus ticket from Podgorica to Žabljak costs about 7 to 8 euros and there are 2 to 3 departures a day.

Accommodation

In the Žabljak itself there are several hotels, motels and pensions as well as a large number of private houses offering lodging services. More regarding this you can find on the website of the local tourist organisation. Here we are going to highlight the accommodation facilities in the very mountain. In the area of Mt Durmitor there are two mountain huts, one bivouac, and one mountain shelter. Mountain hut near the Škrčka Lakes is situated at an altitude of 1723 masl. It has about 30 beds in shared rooms, a kitchen, and a dining room. It is open from mid-June to the end of September. The hut is the ownership of the Durmitor National Park. There is a possibility of pitching tents in the surroundings of the hut by paying an overnight camping fee, because the campground is located in the territory of the national park. Mountain hut in Sušica is open in the summer months. Pitching tents is possible there. On the official website of the Durmitor National Park we couldn't find data concerning the number of available beds in the hut in Sušica and regarding the lodging fees in these two mountain huts. Alpine bivouac is situated in the western part of Velika Karlica at an altitude of 2020 masl. It was built in 1973 by the Belgrade mountaineers and rock climbers. It can provide accommodation for 6 to 8 people. It is open all year round. There is no spring nearby. It has an exceptional location for performing ascents in the rocks of Savin Kuk Peak and Šljeme Peak. Approach starts from Black Lake (Crno jezero)- approximately 2.5 hour hike. Mountain shelter in Lokvice, at an elevation of about 1800 masl, is frequently visited mountain facility in Mt Durmitor, especially due to its location, because it is situated in the direction of the mountain trails starting from Žabljak. It can accommodate 6 to 8 people. The shelter is in a poor condition. It can be reached from Black Lake for about 1.5 hour of hiking. It is open throughout the year. There is a possibility of pitching tents nearby. At Lokvice, there is a small spring of drinkable water which is, however, covered with thick snow during the winter months so don't count on it too much.

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1.30.4. Komovi 37 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.761711, 19.622176

description

Mt Komovi is a rather large mountain range in the eastern part of Montenegro, almost along the very border with Albania. Mt Komovi massif stretches in the direction SW-NE in a length of around 7 kms. The highest areas consist of the two obvious ridges stretching almost parallel to each other. These two ridges are divided by the large stony Medjukomlje pass. The east ridge is Vasojevićki Kom Peak(2460 m), while in the west ridge there are two dominant peaks - Kučki Kom Summit, at the same time the highest point of this massif (2484), and Ljevorečki Kom Peak, also known by the name of Sjeverni vrh(the North Peak). Due to the poor quality of rocks Mt Komovi is primarily a winter climbing area. A large number of technically undemanding lines provide nice climbing in the good snow conditions. The most attractive route is still Dijadema (The Diadem), 3.5 kms, a continuous ridge traversing: Vasojevićki Kom-Bavani-Kučki Kom-Medjukom and Ljevorečki Kom. First traversing was performed in 1956, and the first and so far the only, winter repeat was performed in 1967. A 400-meter high west rock face of Vasojevićki Kom Peak, still unclimbed, can be especially attractive for climbing in the winter months. Approach to the base of this rock is from Štavna plateau in the direction of Medjukomlje - 1 hr.

How to get there

You can reach Komovi from the direction of Kolašin, Andrijevica and Podgorica. All access directions lead towards the Trešnjevik pass, on the road Kolašin-Andrijevica, from where it takes further few kilometres to the foot of the mountain. In Kolašin one should turn towards Mateševo, a small village 10 kms far from Kolašin. On the crossroads in Mateševo one should turn left and via Bare Kraljske, along a narrow bendy asphalt road through wonderful areas and beech forests reach the Trešnjevik pass (1570 m). Then by the pub turn right onto a solid road through the forest, further few kilometers to the Štavna plateau at the foot of the Vasojevićki Kom Peak, which is the best starting point for all mountain climbing/alpine climbing activities on Mt Komovi. If you are staying in Podgorica and want to visit Mt Komovi, but you want to avoid summer traffic jams in the Morača River Canyon, then from the main road in the Bioče village, 10 km from Podgorica, turn onto the travel route to Lijeva Rijeka and Veruša (narrow asphalt road with a million of bends; it is not recommended in the winter months) which will take you to Mateševo from where further on you should take the already described road. Note: last kilometres of the access directions to the Trešnjevik pass from Kolašin and Andrijevica are impassable every winter for several months. Also, one should be aware that not even one bus runs along the travel route Kolašin - Andrijevica.

Accommodation

There are several accommodation options at the Štavna plateau. During the summer months you can opt for camping, space can't lack or you can stay in eco-katun (eco-cottage summer settlement), a newly built accommodation facility with five-bed wooden cottages, and a restaurant. Rent of one five-bed wooden cottage costs 25 euros per day. Also, it is possible sleep over in the log cabin-shelter, which is owned by the Mountaineering Association Železničar. If you find yourself on Mt Komovi in the winter, besides the log cabin of Železničar, it is also possible to stay in one of the cottages in the katuns left unlocked by the owners during the winter months. In order to stay in the eco- katun during the winter months one is required to call and make a reservation in advance. At the Štavna plateau there are several springs with drinkable water.

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1.30.5. Orjen 22 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.537995, 18.583255

description

Mt Orjen massif is a part of the mountain range of the coastal mountains of Montenegro, and certainly its most interesting section as well. It occupies the south-western part of Montenegro. In terms of the area, it is the largest mountain massif on the Adriatic coast. It is situated at the junction of three boarders - of Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. The main section of the massif comprises the groups of peaks situated in its central part which belongs to Montenegro. Mt Orjen is a constituent part of the system of the Dinarides, although it hasn't got the obvious spreading direction typical of the Dinarides. The highest peak of Mt Orjen, Zubački kabao, at the same time the highest peak of the coastal Dinarides, is 1894 metres high. More information on Mt Orjen, places to sleep, marked trails and speleo-objects you can find at www.subra.users.cg.yu Two perhaps the best rocks in Montenegro - Subra and Reovačka greda are situated on this mountain.

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1.30.6. Moračke planine & Maganik 0 routes in Region

1.30.7. Boka Kotorska 42 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.479182, 18.767175

description

Boka Kotorska Bay is one of the most beautiful bays of the Mediterranean, in which there are old towns of Kotor, Perast and Herceg Novi with the rich cultural tradition, long history, preserved architecture, fortifications, churches, cathedrals, palaces, squares which remember centuries, and other significant sites attracting tourist for a long time. In recent years, Kotor has been increasingly visited by climbers as well. In 2005 the Austrian climbers equipped 15 short routes in three locations.

Rocks in the surroundings of the small fishermen's settlement called Orahovac which is located on the road Kotor-Risan are more attractive for traditional climbing owing to its excellent quality and a beautiful landscape which opens while you are several hundred meters above the sea. In the last two years about 15 new routes, mainly of the lesser difficulty grades, have been climbed. The best time for climbing is from autumn to late spring. The south rock face of the Pestingrad Peak, with the height of about 350-400 m, dominates the town of Kotor. There are no ascended routes on this rock!

How to Get There

You will surely encounter problems in order to get to certain climbing destinations in Montenegro. However, it's not the case with Kotor. As a tourist centre, it has a good traffic connections with its surroundings. It is located 5kms away from the Tivat International Airport. There are numerous bus lines from all regions of Montenegro, and in recent years, from Croatia as well running to Kotor. The nearest railway station is located in Bar, about 65 km away.

Accommodation.

As a tourist centre Kotor offers various forms of lodging. Best information on accommodation facilities in Kotor you can find at www.tokotor.com, the official website of the local tourist organisation.

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1.30.8. Hajla 0 routes in Region

description

Mt Hajla is situated in the very east of Montenegro within the municipality of Rožaje. In the broader geographical sense Mt Hajla can be regarded as the part of the north-eastern Prokletije; it spreads along the boarder of Serbia (Kosovo and Metohia) and Montenegro, more precisely, it lies between the source of the Ibar River and Rugovska klisura(gorge) in Kosovo. The relief is characterised by numerous peaks with the elevation of over 2000masl, canyons and gorges of the mountain rivers, numerous and picturesque coniferous forests and mountain pastures. The highest peak of Mt Hajla, 2403masl, is situated at the bare rocky ridge. In terms of height and beauty, a prominent peak is Ahmica Peak(2271masl )as well. Mt Hajla, although one of the fairly high mountains in Montenegro, until the last few years hasn't been widely known and visited. Only with activation of mountaineering associations in Rožaje working on promotion of this gorgeous mountain, among other things, a mountain hut has been built, Hajla has become widely known and visited. On this mountain there are outstanding terrains for ski touring.

How to Get There and Accommodation

As the best starting point for a visit to this mountain we can recommend the town of Rožaje in the very east of Montenegro. Rožaje can be reached from the south, from the direction of Podgorica, along the main road towards Bijelo Polje, further on towards Berane where one should turn left to Rožaje. From Rožaje one should head towards the Bandžov katun at 1460 masl, where there is a mountain hut of the PAK Jelenčica(Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing Club). It is 9 kms away from Rožaje and in the summer it is possible to reach it by passenger car, too. Mountain hut Bandžov can be reached along the road Rožaje - Berane towards the west, after the suburb Suho polje to the first bridge (Dimiskin bridge) over the Ibar River, across the bridge to the left along the gravel road leading to the source of the Ibar River. When you reach the fifth bridge, you'll come across the information board Bandžov, across the bridge on the left. After a kilometre, on the left side you'll come across another small bridge over the stream flowing into the Ibar River, you'll cross it and continue further on to Bandžov. The hut is open all the time during the summer, while in the winter months you must inform them about your visit in advance. It has about thirty beds. There are electricity and water in the hut. It is possible to pitch tents here. Within the katun it is also possible to rent some of the privately owned wooden cottages or log cabins.

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1.30.9. Nikšić sa okolinom 0 routes in Region

1.30.10. Maglič - Bioč - Volujak 0 routes in Region

description

Mountan range comprising the mountains Maglić(2338), Bioč(2397) and Volujak(2336) stretches in the north-western part of Montenegro, making a natural border between Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the heart of these mountains in the north-west, at an elevation of about 1500masl Trnovačko Lake is located and it can be used as a base for many ascents in the surrounding rocks. In these mountains there are some of the highest rocks in Montenegro. These rocks were systematically covered at several rock&alpine climbing camps, run in the period from 1949 to 1956, when the largest number of routes was ascended as well. Unfortunately, since then, there are almost no data on rock&alpine climbing activity in these rocks. Within this group of mountains we are going to present Mt Trnovacki Durmitor, too, which is situated among these three massifs and represents a separate entity.

How to Get There

From the Montenegrin side, the best starting point for all climbs and tours in these mountains is the town of Plužine, about 140 kms away from Podgorica, and then one should continue further on towards the Mratinje village, the Stabna village and Trnovacko Lake. The road from the town of Plužine, which is located on the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča, leads to the Stabna village. When going from the direction of Nikšić, before the bus station in Plužine, one should turn left into the town. Then one should follow a wide street leading on one's left-hand side. Its extension is also a road leading past Pivsko Lake to the Stabna village along the Vrbnica River. The road is passable for all vehicles. Mratinje village can also be reached along the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča. From the direction of Nikšić one should go past Plužine, and continue along the main road leading along Pivsko Lake. When the dam is reached, one should cross it. At the very end of dam there is a tunnel in which the crossroads to the Mratinje village is located as well. One should enter the tunnel which is marked with a signpost and follow the road further on. You can't miss it. The big crags in the massif of Mt Bioč can be reached fastest from the valley of Mratinje. Trnovačko Lake can be reached from three directions. The two of these are in the Montenegrin territory and one is in the Bosnian territory and it is the easiest one. First starts from the Stabna village along the woody valley to Malo Stabansko Lake. From there a steeper ascent to the big lake follows. From the lake head rightwards uphill through the pass to Stabanjska tap. Further to the north along the slopes of Krvava brda(Bloody hills) into the Smrekovac valley where there is a spring. One should continue along the valley to Urdeni dolovi where there is a crossroads of the marked roads. One should follow the left road. Then the descent down the stony and scree-covered slopes follows. One reaches Jezerski klanac(Lake Gorge), from where the road goes along a little wood and steep scree to Trnovacko Lake. From Stabna village the road is a footpath. A long and gruelling approach. The other difficult approach goes from the Mratinje village towards Carev do (Tzar's Dale) from where the trail goes steeply downhill towards the lake. The third and the easiest approach to the lake is from the Bosnian side, Foča-Tjentište-Dragoš sedlo-Prijevor, from where one-hour hike leads you to the lake. A gravel road runs from Tjentište further on, and it is good and suitable for passenger cars.

Where to Sleep.

Bring your tents along. There are no mountain huts, shelters or bivouacs on these mountains-

Climbing season lasts from late spring to early autumn, but climbing is the best during the summer months, because most rocks have the western or northern orientation.

©

1.30.11. Prokletije 97 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.535761, 19.818369

1.30.12. Budva 5 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.255237, 18.885353

1.30.13. Lovcen 3 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.399053, 18.829169

1.30.14. Perazica do 0 routes in Area

summary

Small bouldering area

1.30.15. Perazica 0 routes in Area

summary

Small bouldering area

1.30.16. Bar Old Town 27 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

summary

This area comprises Stari Bar and Menke Bar crags. Stari is where the strongest go to push their limits, whereas Menke is for easier climbing.

description

These crags are located just above Bar Old Town up a narrow road.

access issues

Limited Parking. Please carpool.

1.30.17. Menke bar 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.097870, 19.141756

1.30.18. Tivat 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.434503, 18.716589

1.31. Netherlands 1,257 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.203796, 5.289936

summary

No mountains, no rocks. Instead this country has climbing halls, artificial outdoor areas, and shady buildering areas.

description

The organisation for Dutch climbers is the NKBV

access issues

Be aware that climbing outside (buildering) in areas that are not explicitly "tolerated" or "designated" may be unwanted or illegal.

1.31.1. Zuid-Holland 321 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Top roping and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.846746, 4.209759

1.31.2. Noord-Holland 381 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 52.590936, 4.886414

1.31.3. Noord-Brabant 227 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.563196, 5.117928

1.31.4. Gelderland 17 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Top roping and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.122944, 5.939777

1.31.5. Utrecht 21 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.076725, 5.220447

1.31.6. Overijssel 48 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.400859, 6.457767

1.31.7. Limburg 67 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.119387, 5.950895

1.31.8. Friesland 1 route in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.068055, 5.878535

1.31.9. Groningen 133 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.101917, 6.452548

1.31.10. Drenthe 0 routes in Region

1.31.11. Flevoland 4 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.501669, 5.494915

summary

De Flevopolder is een groot poldergebied in de Nederlandse provincie Flevoland. Het grondgebied van de Flevopolder bestaat uit de polders Oostelijk Flevoland en Zuidelijk Flevoland tezamen. De Flevopolder is dus, in tegenstelling tot wat de naam doet vermoeden, niet een enkele polder. Het gehele gebied is door mensenhanden aangelegd en vormt zowel het zwaartepunt van de Zuiderzeewerken als van de huidige provincie Flevoland. De twee onderdelen zijn ingepolderd tussen 1950-1957 respectievelijk 1959-1968.

1.31.12. Zeeland 37 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.488326, 3.827200

1.32. Norway 23,659 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 70.760320, 16.440628

1.32.1. Eastern Norway 7,597 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 60.726891, 9.989820

1.32.2. Southern Norway 2,115 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 58.791012, 7.756998

1.32.3. Western Norway 8,287 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 60.906980, 6.811561

1.32.4. Mid Norway 1,490 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 63.973048, 11.080867

description

A new guidebook "Trønder Rock" is available from 2011. Includes 9 new cliffs which were not described in the old guidebook.

1.32.5. Northern Norway 4,169 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 68.149998, 20.000629

1.32.6. Svalbard and Jan Mayen Islands 1 route in Region

Summary:
All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 78.678269, 19.470593

1.33. Poland 23,968 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.181323, 19.326379

access issues

🦅Check in with the "Ptaki w skałach" spreadsheet for routes with nesting birds.

1.33.1. Tatry Polskie 393 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.242979, 19.944589

summary

Northern part of High Tatras geographically located in Poland.

One of the best online source of information:

https://drytooling.com.pl/baza/topo/tatry

description

Polish High Tatras are part of Carpathian arc with highest point being Rysy (2499m) on polish-slovakian border. The mountains are granite peaks, the rock is rather broken with exception of several compact faces that provided spectacular multi-pitch climbs in alpine environment and mostly with trad protection.

For protection, pitons, cams, nuts etc. are allowed.

access issues

The whole area is a national park (Tatrzański Park Narodowy, TPN) and visiting it follows strict regulations. In particular

  • you are not supposed to leave marked trails with exempt for climbers
  • you are not supposed to stay in the mountains in dark (no bivouacking)
  • you have to pay the entrance fee to the TPN
  • you have to register your planned sport climbing and/or alpine climbing activity at: https://wspinanie.tpn.pl/
  • climbing (both alpine and sport) is allowed only in selected areas
  • additional restrictions on the time and place of climbing may be introduced by the TPN

Detailed regulations for climbing are published at TPN website

approach

You arrive in the region either from nord - Cracow, Nowy Targ, Zakopane or from south - Poprad, Lysa Polana

There are three principal approaches

  • Zakopane - Kuźnice, 49.2695228N, 19.9811472E
  • Zakopane, 49.2872886N, 20.0356308E
  • Palenica Białczańska, 49.2552100N, 20.1032444E

Starting season 2021 you are adviced to reserve parking beforehands (https://tpn.pl/zwiedzaj/e-bilety), though it was still possible to negotiate on the spot.

where to stay

High in mountains there are three principal tourist huts that offer dormitories or rooms

  • Murowanies (https://murowaniec.com/)
  • Schronisko Gorskie PTTK w Dolinie Pieciu Stawow Polskich (https://piecstawow.pl/)
  • Schronisko PTTK Morskie Oko (https://schroniskomorskieoko.pl/pl)

All are usually booked well in advance.

ethic

Usual ethic of alpine climbing and mountaineering.

1.33.2. Obniżenie Orawsko-Podhalańskie 67 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.396387, 20.020068

1.33.3. Beskidy i Pogórza Karpackie 3,653 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.667534, 21.074481

summary

Beskid Mountains are Poland's largest area mountains. There are numerous small crags throughout, mostly of local significance.

description

At this huge area you can find a few sandstone crags. Most of them offer bouldering but few cliffs are high enough and bolted for sport climbing. Trad routes are not hard to find, but they are rarely climbed. Short multipitches are only found on Kobyla Skała and Krowia Turnia, but all of them are usually done in a single pitch.

ethic

There are no set-in-stone ethics for the Beskid Mountains and Carpathian Foothills region, but there are guidelines everyone should follow to minimize the impact.

  • Never climb on wet sandstone. You have to wait for 1-4 full days after rain depending on the area as the rock is brittle when wet.
  • Use chalk reasonably and remove it when possible. The white spots worsen the aesthetics, reduce friction when too much is built up, and sometimes irreversably change the mineral structure of the rock.
  • Avoid overbrushing. Only use brushes with soft bristles and do not press too hard.
  • It is better to use UFOs and knots (textile protection) instead of metal gear when trad climbing, but both are usually deemed okay.
  • Do not create artificial holds. It is allowed on some quarries, but even there it is reserved for a select few.
  • Avoid climbing in areas where it is explicitly forbidden (all national parks, most nature reserves, some natural monuments).

Unfortunately, all of the rules stated above are broken regularly, often times by experienced local climbers.

1.33.4. Kotlina Oświęcimska 0 routes in Region

1.33.5. Kotlina Sandomierska 23 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.277921, 22.007399

summary

A flatland region in southern Poland with little to no natural climbing.

description

Options for natural climbing are very limited in the Sandomierz Basin because of soft bedrock. You can find some small glacial erratics and steep riverbanks which get somewhat less crumbly during cold winter.

There are also some climbable man-made structures found here, the most promising being Molotov Line bunkers on the east side of the region.

1.33.6. Wyżyna Śląska 204 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.275019, 18.720448

1.33.7. Wyżyna Woźnicko-Wieluńska 0 routes in Region

1.33.8. Jura 11,750 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.308294, 19.656474

summary

Area located between Kraków and Częstochowa, on a distance of about 140 km. The biggest and most popular climbing area in Poland. Mostly sport climbing, over 10000 climbs.

description

Limestone crags of Jura are well protected, mainly with inox bolts. The most popular crags are: Rzędkowice, Podlesice, Podzamcze and valleys (called "Dolinki") located near Kraków. World's third 8b was climbed by Piotr Korczak in Mamutowa Cave in 1986. This famous route was first repeated after many years.

Sport climbing is very popular here, which can lead to some classic routes being rather polished and slippery

Guidebooks

Having a guidebook is essential since almost all of the routes don't have their name written on the rock. Jura is split in three parts - North, Central and South (Północna, Środkowa and Południowa). Each part has it's own guidebook available here . The guidebooks can be physically bought in few shops, list here.

There is a very good free online database with topos on Portal Gorski. It covers the whole Jura but some information is already outdated compared to the guidebooks.

Equipment needed

For majority of the routes, a 50m rope will be sufficient, but it's better to bring a 60m rop so that you can climb almost everything. Bring 15 quickdraws.

Route character

Majority is single pitch sport climbing, although there are few routes separated in two pitches. Routes are very well bolted and feel safe. You'll find one or two trad routes at almost every crag.

Bouldering exists in Jura as well, although it's nowhere near the popularity of sport climbing. Some guidebooks are slowly coming out, see this facebook page

approach

Fly to Kraków or Katowice, then by car or train. Most crags are generally easily accessible, 5-15 min from parking lot. Lots of regions are safe for children (flat grassy terrain).

where to stay

Lot of cheap rooms to rent (look for "agroturystyka").

ethic

Standard. Many rocks are on private areas near civilization - please respect the locals, don't play music and make loud noise.

Dry-tooling is strictly prohibited with the exception of the following sectors: - The quarry in Zakrzówek (Kraków) - only selected sectors! - The quarry in Zimny Dół (Jura Południowa, Dolina Sanki) - Dry Igły (Jura Południowa, Rusocice) - Jaskinia Jasna in Strzegowa (Jura Środkowa) - only selected roads inside the cave! - Rudy Kamień Quarry (Jura Północna) - Złota Góra (Jura Północna)

history

Climbing around Kraków (in "Dolinki") began around 1907. North part of Jura was discovered for climbing after World War II.

1.33.9. Świętokrzyskie i okolice 611 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.833584, 20.538104

1.33.10. Lubelszczyzna 4 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.374621, 22.884302

summary

Mostly lowlands with glacial erratics being the only option for climbing. There are some unexplored quarries in western and southern parts of the region.

1.33.11. Roztocze 9 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.581364, 23.010337

summary

An unclimbed region with significant bouldering potential both on natural limestone formations and soviet bunkers.

description

Most climbing locations in Roztocze would only be appreciated by connoisseurs. But if you still want to try - Kamieniołom Babia Dolina and Góra Piekiełko are the most promising. In case you are not satisfied you can do a small training session on an artificial wall in Józefów.

1.33.12. Sudety 6,542 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.770176, 16.245425

1.33.13. Niziny Śląskie 6 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.046299, 17.163988

1.33.14. Województwo zachodniopomorskie 77 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.683344, 15.510377

1.33.15. Województwo pomorskie 71 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 54.230227, 18.100279

1.33.16. Województwo warmińsko-mazurskie 0 routes in Region

1.33.17. Województwo lubuskie 46 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.211708, 15.340358

1.33.18. Województwo wielkopolskie 426 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.343952, 17.241636

1.33.19. Województwo kujawsko-pomorskie 0 routes in Region

1.33.20. Obszar łódzki 6 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.710873, 19.734523

1.33.21. Mazowsze 80 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 52.395926, 21.119144

1.33.22. Województwo podlaskie 0 routes in Region

1.34. Portugal 6,388 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.235068, -19.365670

description

Location and topos of many areas in Portugal can be found here (click on map): http://climbingportugal.blogspot.com/

1.34.1. Minho 514 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.626189, -8.543148

1.34.2. Trás-os-Montes 364 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.506486, -7.198703

1.34.3. Porto 768 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.055554, -8.293299

1.34.4. Coimbra-Viseu 593 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.329853, -8.433079

1.34.5. Beira Interior 547 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 40.304719, -7.415990

summary

Zone géographique regroupant plusieurs sites d'escalade.

description

Une association de Castelo Branco (Clube Raia Aventura) avec l'appui des villes concernées et d'autres entités ont créé un petit guide gratuit en 2019 qui regroupe les sites d'escalade locaux: Roteiro de Escalada da Beira Interior. Disponible dans les offices de tourisme de Fundão, Oleiros, Idanha-A-Nova, Proença-A-Nova, etc.

1.34.6. Ribatejo 528 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 39.406999, -8.487626

1.34.7. Estremadura 194 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.462339, -9.167329

1.34.8. Região de Lisboa 1,497 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.645397, -9.082593

1.34.9. Alentejo 45 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.393670, -7.949674

1.34.10. Algarve 399 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.091630, -8.369125

1.34.11. Azores 638 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.589948, -27.759885

description

The Azores are an island group that is located about 800 miles east of Portugal in the Atlantic Ocean. There is sport climbing, bouldering and deepwatersoloing on inland but mostly sea cliffs, because it can rain and grow a lot. Precipitation and humidity gets more the further west the island is, so Sao Miguel is comparatively dry, Terceira and Pico in the middle and Flores is super green.

Weather wise, the best months to visit for climbing are arguably June, July and August when temperatures are over 20°C and precipitation is at its lowest, but you can climb year round. Often clouds and rain are hanging deep above 200hm, but the coast cliffs are still dry. Also note the strong microclimates, wind and wave direction is important, on one side of an island it can rain and wave a lot while on the other side it is dry and calm. For rain days you can also explore various kilometer long lava tunnels.

Most cliffs were developed after 2008 and you see a learning process: The older drilling bolts start rusting, especially those close to the ocean, and on some crags they started rebolting with glue in bolts. So take care with bolt quality and decide yourself whether you trust them, take in mind there is no mountain rescue.

Good article about Azores climbing. 2 local guidebooks mentioned here.

approach

There are normally direct flights from the US and Europe the Azores. Most flights will likely be in/out of Ponta Delgada (the largest city in the Azores, located on Sao Miguel Island), but som ir also going to Terceira. Once in the Azores, SATA, the local arm of Azores Airlines, offers short flights between each of the eight other Azorean islands. To fly is generally faster and similiar priced as ferries which even don't operate the whole year.

1.34.12. Madeira 298 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 32.742302, -16.797984

description

[P] A escalada na Ilha da Madeira começou por volta de 1940 pelo pioneiro da escalada em Portugal, o Dr. Rui Silva, que abriu muitos percursos que ainda hoje se repetem. Muitos destes percursos são de escalada assistida num tipo de rocha vulcânica muito típica da Madeira, o chamado "Cerro". Mais recentemente, à medida que a escalada desportiva tem vindo a reunir cada vez mais adeptos, alguns novos sectores têm vindo a ser desenvolvidos.

A rocha vulcânica, o basalto, pode oferecer alguns bons desafios, pois costuma ser muito afiada e escorregadia. A escalada desportiva é o tipo de escalada mais comum, mas a Madeira também tem algumas rotas mistas clássicas e está também a ser desenvolvida uma nova geração de escaladas tradicionais.

A Madeira é conhecida pelas suas incríveis paisagens e caminhadas, e escalar também é ótimo. Desde o oceano, até à floresta Laurissilva, garantimos-lhe cenários deslumbrantes! As subidas variam de subidas fáceis e bonitas com vistas incríveis, a algumas mais difíceis nas séries 7-8. A maioria das falésias fica perto de uma estrada, por isso é fácil levar toda a família e aproveitar.

Ilha atlântica e com influência do continente africano, a Madeira tem um clima ameno durante todo o ano. A maior parte da precipitação ocorre nos primeiros meses do ano e a temperatura média anual na estação meteorológica do Funchal é de 19,6 °C. Basicamente, é possível escalar o ano todo!

No que diz respeito a alojamento, qualquer ponto da Ilha é um bom local, pois é possível chegar a qualquer rochedo em menos de 40min. Os locais recomendados pelo autor destes topos situam-se na zona oeste, como a RIbeira Brava, a Ponta do Sol e a Calheta. Também é altamente recomendável alugar um carro, pois o ônibus não vai chegar perto dos penhascos, e subir algumas das estradas de bicicleta é muito ambicioso.

Para todos os amantes da natureza, a Madeira oferece óptimas opções de dias de descanso. Desde caminhadas nas levadas, coasteering, BTT, trail running e canyoning, encontrará um fabuloso conjunto de atividades para os dias de descanso.

Climbing in Madeira Island started around 1940 by the climbing pioneer of Portugal, of Dr. Rui Silva, who opened many routes that are still repeated today. Many of these routes are aid climbing on a type of volcanic rock that is very typical in Madeira, called "Cerro". More recently, as the sport climbing has been gathering more and more enthusiasts, some new sectors have been developed.

The volcanic rock, basalt, can offer some nice challenges, as it is usually very sharp and slippery. Sport climbing is the most common type of climbing, but Madeira has also some classic mixed routes and there's also a new generation of trad climbs being developed.

Madeira is known for its amazing landscapes and walks, and climbing there is also great. From the ocean, until the Laurisilva forest, you'll be guaranteed with amazing sceneries! The climbs range from easy and beautiful climbs with amazing views, to some harder ones in the 7-8 grades. Most of the crags are close to a road, so it's easy to take the whole family and enjoy.

As an Atlantic island and with influence from the African continent, Madeira has a nice weather all year around. Most of the precipitation occurs in the first months of the year and the average annual temperature at Funchal weather station is 19.6 °C. Basically, it's possible to climb all year around!

When it comes to accommodation, anywhere in the Island is a good spot as it's possible to get to any crag in less than 40min. The recommended spots by the author of these topos are in the west part, like RIbeira Brava, Ponta do Sol and Calheta. It is also highly recommended to rent a car, as the bus is not going to get you near the crags, and biking up some of the roads is very ambitious.

For everyone who loves nature, Madeira offers great rest day options. From walks on the levadas, coasteering, MTB, trail running and canyoning, you will find a fabulous set of activities for the rest days.

http://escalada.camadeira.com/locais-de-escalada/

http://climbingportugal.blogspot.com/search/label/Madeira

https://www.facebook.com/MadeiraClimbingCamp

https://www.facebook.com/groups/tradMadeira

https://www.facebook.com/montanhamaderira

https://www.summitpost.org/object_list.php?object_type=1&distance_1=100&distance_lat_1=32.73968&distance_lon_1=-16.94004&map_1=1&is_open=1

1.35. Romania 8,106 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.805855, 25.096174

description

Detailed topos and descriptions in English and Romanian: https://www.climbromania.com/EnDefault.aspx (the Romanian version of the site might contain more info)

Another info source (only in Romanian) is: http://eclimb.ro/

Another info source (Romanian/English) is: http://www.romaniaquest.com

1.35.1. Nord-Vest / North-West 149 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.493620, 23.290528

1.35.2. Oriental Carpathians 1,282 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.767397, 25.995910

1.35.3. Iași 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.138908, 27.605283

1.35.4. Banat 105 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.347282, 21.749841

1.35.5. Apuseni Mountains 2,537 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.550061, 22.785790

1.35.6. South-West 1,705 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.291089, 23.277478

description

1.35.7. Central Region 2,125 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.410734, 25.211238

description

guidebook: "Rock Climbing in Romania - A Climbing Guide of Brasov Crags" http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingShop/A-Climbing-guide-of-Brasov-crags.html

1.35.8. București 0 routes in Area

1.35.9. Dobrogea 179 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.906801, 28.377528

1.35.10. Craiova 0 routes in Area

summary

City in Oltenia, SW of the country.

1.36. Russia 3,862 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 64.672296, 102.661244

description

You can find nice topos on https://allclimb.com/en/

1.36.1. Moscow 0 routes in Region

1.36.2. St. Petersburg/Karelia 1,834 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 62.578361, 32.761265

1.36.3. Krasnodar 445 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.753668, 39.351548

1.36.4. Krasnoyarskiy krai 237 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 65.902279, 95.257272

1.36.5. Bashkortostan 89 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.969547, 55.786457

1.36.6. Volgogradskaya oblast 0 routes in Region

1.36.7. Irkutskaya oblast 54 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 58.019206, 108.934701

1.36.8. Kabardino-Balkaria 173 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.554402, 43.506663

1.36.9. Kemerovskaya oblast' 116 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 54.772304, 87.220282

1.36.10. Novosibirskaya oblast' 21 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 55.291118, 79.755504

1.36.11. Altay 282 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.996958, 86.239344

1.36.12. Lipetskaya oblast' 25 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.625463, 39.175156

1.36.13. Rostovskaya oblast 52 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.775506, 41.254482

1.36.14. Sverdlovskaya oblast 12 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 58.662198, 61.551371

summary

Approximately 900 routes in this region, and the biggest areas are Kourovka - 105, Aramashevo - 72, Severka - 147, Chertovo - 103 routes

1.36.15. Stavropolskaya oblast 242 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.912832, 43.259546

1.36.16. Habarovskaya oblast 0 routes in Region

1.36.17. Chelyabinskaya oblast 115 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 54.690234, 60.049394

1.36.18. Severnaya Osetija 131 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.201980, 44.346367

1.36.19. Chukotka Autonomous Okrug 12 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 66.453113, 169.919404

1.36.20. Yakutia 22 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 66.648877, 129.962725

1.36.21. Улахаl 0 routes in Crag

description

1.37. Serbia 1,915 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.155248, 20.891567

1.37.1. Beograd 54 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.771798, 20.438441

1.37.2. Dubočka pećina, Duboka 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.551122, 21.766413

1.37.3. Golubac 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.660048, 21.673447

1.37.4. Gornjačka klisura 74 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.277909, 21.530306

summary

ENG

One of the oldest climbing areas in Serbia with lots of easy climbs.

SRB

Jedno od najstarijih penjališta u Srbiji sa obiljem lakih smerova.

description

ENG

More info about the crag is available here: https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/gornjacka-klisura/

SRB

Više informacija možete naći na sledećem linku: https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/gornjacka-klisura/

approach

ENG

Using a car, from Belgrade you'll need a little less than 2 hours to get to Gornjak gorge (some ~130 km). First part of the road is on E75 highway for some 60 km. Exit from highway to Požarevac and continue using regional roads for another 55 km towards Petrovac city. From there, continue towards Gornjak gorge for another 15 km (to the first parking space, right across the "Kod Rajka" restaurant).

Google Maps location: (44.275460, 21.523916)

There are several designated parking spots in the gorge. Read more about recommended parking spot in the particular sector description.

SRB

Kolima od Beograda je potrebno nešto manje od 2 sata puta do Gornjačke klisure (nekih ~130 km). Putuje se E75 autoputem nekih 60 km do izlaza za Požarevac. Odatle još 55 km magistralnim putevima do Petrovca na Mlavi. Odatle još 15 km do Gornjačke klisure (prvog parkinga kod restorana "Kod Rajka").

Google Maps lokacija: (44.275460, 21.523916)

Postoji nekoliko parking lokacija u klisuri. Pogledajte opis konkretnog sektora za više informacija o preporučenoj parking lokaciji.

1.37.5. Kanjon Resave, Beljanica 175 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.082394, 21.670994

summary

ENG

Awesome limestone crag with variety of styles and grades. Great summer destination.

SRB

Izuzetno penjalište sa smerovima najrazličitijih profila i težina. Odlična letnja destinacija.

description

ENG

More info about the crag is available here: https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/kanjon-resave/

SRB

Više informacija možete naći na sledećem linku: https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/kanjon-resave/

approach

ENG

Using a car, from Belgrade you'll need a little over 2 hours to get to Beljanica crag (some ~150 km). Majority of the road is E75 highway (~100 km). Exit from highway at Markovac and continue using regional roads for another 50 km to Strmosten village.

Google Maps location: (44.087709, 21.647379)

You can park anywhere where there's a road widening. It's best to park near the sector you want to climb on.

SRB

Kolima od Beograda je potrebno nešto više od 2 sata puta do Beljanice (Strmostena, nekih ~150 km). Putuje se E75 autoputem nekih 100 km do izlaza za Markovac. Odatle još 50 km magistralnim putevima do Strmostena.

Google Maps lokacija: (44.087709, 21.647379)

Možete parkirati bilo gde pored puta (gde je put proširen). Najbolje je parkirati u blizini sektora koji želite posetiti.

1.37.6. Krnjača, Priboj 101 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.432672, 19.407849

1.37.7. Manastir Manasija, Despotovac 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.100663, 21.463451

approach

The climbing area is just outside of Despotovac city, towards the monastery Manasija, on the left side of the road. There is a designated paring area just before the monastery, on the right side of the road. Walk back 100 meters, the climbing area is on the other side of the road.

history

-

1.37.8. Mučanj, Ivanjica 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.542965, 19.997935

1.37.9. Niš 279 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.343028, 21.936318

1.37.10. Niševac, Svrljig 244 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.464878, 22.104861

description

ENG

More information about this area can be found here (available in English too):

https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/nisevac-svrljig/

SRB

Više informacija o ovoj lokaciji možete naći na sledećem linku:

https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/nisevac-svrljig/

approach

ENG

From Belgrade, by car, you'll need a little less than 3 hours to get to Niševac village (some 260 km). Go by E75 highway towards Niš for some 240 km. Take the exit towards Malča and follow the road signs towards Svrljig for another 17 km. Continue towards Niševac village for some 7 km.

(43.461769, 22.102856) You can park at the end of a dirt road that goes on the left side of the local elementary school.

SRB

Kolima od Beograda je potrebno nešto manje od 3 sata puta do sela Niševac (nekih 260 km). Putuje se E75 autoputem nekih 240 km do izlaza za Malču (posle Niša, autoput ka Sofiji). Pratite putokaze ka Svrljigu još nekih 17 km. Iz Svrljiga idite ka selu Niševac nekih 7 km.

(43.461769, 22.102856) Možete parkirati na kraju zemljanog puta koji vodi sa leve strane osnovne škole.

where to stay

ENG

Either stay in the nearby town of Svrljig or further in Niška Banja or Niš. Use booking.com to find accommodation.

Accommodation is also possible in Niševac village, but that requires asking locals for renting a room.

Another option is camping near the river (Timok).

SRB

Prenoćište je moguće u obližnjem Svrljigu ili dalje u Niškoj Banji ili Nišu. Koristite booking.com za traženje smeštaja.

Moguće je i prenoćište u Niševcu, ali je potrebno raspitati se kod lokalaca ko želi da iznajmi sobu.

Takođe je moguće kampovanje pored lokalne reke Timok.

1.37.11. Orlovo Bojište, Fruška Gora 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.180508, 19.830623

1.37.12. Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Novi Sad 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.251650, 19.861100

summary

Nice little crag with short routes, good for beginners, toprope access is available for some routes.

description

Rock is solid. Place is very cool for practice.

approach

There is parking near the crag. Close to restaurant "Balkan Express". Adress is Kamenički put 21132, Petrovaradin.

history

New routes were added in november 2022. Old routes were rebolted and changed a bit. Anchors are beginner friendly.

1.37.13. Pirot 35 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.199177, 22.635599

1.37.14. Prijepolje 122 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.311709, 19.637262

where to stay

Sleeping in tents near the climb. Sleeping in the mountain cabin. Sleeping in Vacation Rentals in Sopotnica.

1.37.15. Rajac 49 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.173048, 20.210165

1.37.16. Rčanska pećina, Guča 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.732149, 20.241997

1.37.17. Soko Grad, Ljubovija 104 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.269247, 19.430551

summary

Climbing on vertical to slightly overhanging limestone next to a huge monastery. Due to tree shade and orientation climbing is best in summer. Some of the routes stay wet after rain.

approach

By road about 170 km from Valjevo. When you arrive in Ljubovija, take the main road to go to Mali Zvornik. After 10km you will see the turn off for the Monastery of St. Nikolaj Velimirović. After follow the way to the monastery where there is a large parking lot.

where to stay

Sleeping in tents near the monastery (please behave accordingly). Accommodation in the guest house of the monastery. Rooms are at a price of 600 dinars per night and double rooms - bed 1200 RSD per person. Just outside monastery are toilets and water to drink.

1.37.18. Soko Grad, Sokobanja 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.634493, 21.893217

description

More info about the crag can be obtained here https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/sokobanja/soko-grad/

1.37.19. Stol, Bor 72 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.176289, 22.131565

summary

ENG

Many sport, multi-pitch and trad routes and one of the nicest climbing places in eastern Serbia.

SRB

Obilje sportskih, multi-pitch i trad smerova i jedno od najlepših penjališta Srbije.

description

ENG

Stol mountain contains many sport, multi-pitch and trad routes and it is one of the nicest climbing places in the eastern part of Serbia.

The best months for climbing sport routes are from April until mid October (or even later, until it snows), because the sport routes are in the woods and can be climbed during hot summer days. The best months for multi-pitch and trad routes are from April until June and from late August until mid October, beginning of November, again, depending on the weather and if there is snow.

Rock is solid quality, white limestone. There are more than 60 sport routes, grades ranging from 4c to 8a+ and more than 30 multi-pitch/trad routes with grades ranging from I to VIII.

More information about sport routes can be found here (available in English too):

https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/borski-stol/

SRB

Planina Stol poseduje obilje sportskih, multi-pitch i trad smerova i jedno je od najlepših penjališta istočne Srbije.

Najbolji period za penjanje sportskih smerova je od aprila pa do sredine oktobra (a i kasnije, zavisno od vremena) jer su sportski smerovi sakriveni gustom šumom pa su konstantno u hladu. Najbolji period za penjanje multi-pitch i trad smerova je od aprila do juna i od kraja avgusta do sredine oktovra (a i kasnije, zavisno od vremena).

Stena je kvalitetni beli krečnjak. Penjalište ima preko 60 sportski smerova, ocena od 4c pa do 8a+ i više od 30 multi-pitch i trad smerova ocena od I do VIII.

Više informacija o sportskim smerovima možete naći na sledećem linku:

https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/borski-stol/

approach

ENG

From Belgrade, by car, you'll need a bit over 3 hours to get to Stol mountain (some 260 km). Go by E75 highway towards Niš for some 150 km. Take the exit towards Paraćin and follow the road signs towards Bor for another 80 km. Continue towards the village of Veliki Krivelj for some 10 km. Upon reaching the village, on the center crossroad, turn right and on the next turn, turn left and follow the road towards the village of Gornjane. After 7 km, at the crossroad, go right towards the vilage of Bučje. After 800 meters (44.167398, 22.113761) go sharp left, uphill for some 2.5 km. This roads leads directly to Stol mountain hut.

(44.173059, 22.123543) You can park near the mountain hut "Stol" or anywhere in the vicinity.

SRB

Kolima od Beograda je potrebno nešto više od 3 sata puta do Stola (nekih 260 km). Putuje se E75 autoputem nekih 150 km do izlaza za Paraćin. Pratite putokaze ka Boru još nekih 80 km. Iz Bora idite ka selu Veliki Krivelj nekih 10 km. Kada dođete do sela, na glavnoj raskrsnici skrenite desno pa onda na seldećoj raskrsnici levo ka selu Gornjane. Posle 7 km, na raskrsnici, skrenite desno ka selu Bučje. Posle samo 800 metara (44.167398, 22.113761) skrenite oštro levo uzbrdo. Posle 2.5 km doći ćete do planinarskog doma "Stol".

(44.173059, 22.123543) Možete parkirati pored planinarskog doma "Stol" ili bilo gde u okruženju.

where to stay

ENG

The stay can be in the mountain hut "Stol", price is approximately 500 RSD (4-5 EUR) per night.

There's also a private accommodation right beside the mountain hut. More info on their Facebook page.

Another option is to camp, plenty of space anywhere on the surrounding fields.

SRB

Smeštaj je dostupan u lokalnom planinarskom domu "Stol". Cena prenoćišta je oko 500 RSD.

Postoji i privatni smeštaj nedaleko od doma. Više informacija na njihovoj Facebook stranici.

Kampovanje je moguće bilo gde u okolini, niko ne pravi problem.

1.37.20. Tara 18 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.910606, 19.558866

1.37.21. Tupižnica 66 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.703645, 22.152975

1.37.22. Užice 83 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.852197, 19.823538

1.37.23. Valjevo 169 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.270966, 19.818988

1.37.24. Vrmdža 120 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.713187, 21.810072

access issues

1.37.25. Zaječar 18 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.785035, 22.313267

1.37.26. Vršac 3 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.125346, 21.330645

1.38. Slovakia 11,420 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.708651, 19.481187

ethic

1.38.1. Bratislava a okolie 352 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 48.251798, 17.191155

1.38.2. Záhorie 2,020 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.559895, 17.278041

1.38.3. Biele Karpaty 55 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.048286, 18.089279

1.38.4. Považský Inovec 184 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.687218, 18.095553

1.38.5. Strážovské vrchy 1,931 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.961673, 18.161337

1.38.6. Ponitrie 368 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.392146, 18.198783

1.38.7. Kremnické vrchy 85 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.709786, 19.046035

1.38.8. Vtáčnik 889 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.644141, 18.688885

description

1.38.9. Veľká Fatra 656 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.964706, 19.042468

1.38.10. Malá Fatra 759 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.233900, 18.831937

1.38.11. Chočské vrchy 200 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.164320, 19.356621

1.38.12. Štiavnické vrchy 401 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.413413, 18.785072

1.38.13. Poľana 745 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.688893, 19.282688

1.38.14. Slovenský raj 395 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.931544, 20.589085

1.38.15. Muránská planina 165 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.711041, 19.945125

1.38.16. Slovenský kras 319 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.630383, 20.821685

1.38.17. Volovské vrchy 247 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.819824, 21.093379

1.38.18. Branisko 0 routes in Region

1.38.19. Slanské vrchy 166 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.807450, 21.469428

1.38.20. Skalky v okolí Humenného 24 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.026374, 21.991308

1.38.21. Nízke Tatry 669 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.959660, 19.777608

1.38.22. Slovenské Tatry 706 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Alpine climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.203195, 20.000350

1.38.23. Veľký Krtíš 42 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.246736, 19.247138

1.38.24. Volovské vrchy 2 0 routes in Region

1.38.25. Baterka 22 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.341986, 20.671949

1.38.26. Mažiar Jasličky 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

1.38.27. Pustá Ves 7 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

1.38.28. Bardejov - Climbing wall Sveržov 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.337361, 21.160929

description

Outside climbing tower in Sveržov village near Bardejov city. Details and photos

approach

Park in front of municipal office (obecný úrad) and you should see tower from there just few meters north.

1.39. Slovenia 5,437 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.118302, 14.816717

1.39.1. Julijske Alpe 2,255 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.108565, 13.817438

description

AVE 58

1.39.2. Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe 259 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.306023, 14.623027

description

AVE 60

1.39.3. Karavanke + Pohorje 474 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.439385, 14.627965

1.39.4. Labotniške Alpe 15 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.930366, 14.996618

1.39.5. Koper 831 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.514424, 13.836513

1.39.6. Ljubljana 298 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.998932, 14.558896

1.39.7. Dolenjska 186 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.760785, 15.031420

1.39.8. Dinarsko gorstvo 98 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.740444, 14.052552

1.39.9. Zalec 729 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.254546, 15.071116

1.39.10. Trbovlje & Hrastnik 43 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.137672, 15.085214

1.39.11. Zagorje ob Savi 65 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.148549, 14.935224

1.39.12. Domzale 27 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.154602, 14.691517

1.39.13. Celje 157 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.204890, 15.465339

1.39.14. Gore vzhod Mura 0 routes in Region

1.40. Spain 107,343 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 35.700743, -6.813463

1.40.1. Andalusia 8,740 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.340062, -4.492150

1.40.2. Aragon 12,688 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.411057, -0.700520

ethic

  • La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie tus zapatos de la suciedad con el fin de evitar asideros y pasos pulidos.
  • No instale top-rope directamente a través de anclaje o anillos - usa tu propio material en su lugar.
  • Limpia las marcas de tiza con un cepillo.
  • No dejes papel higiénico.
  • Recoge la basura - también las colillas de cigarrillos.
  • Aparcar con consideración (los tractores deben poder pasar también el fin de semana).

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through anchors or bolts – use your own material instead.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish - also cigarette butts.
  • Park considerately (tractors should be able to pass also at the weekend).

1.40.3. Asturias 2,938 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.388069, -5.799782

access issues

1.40.4. Islas Baleares 3,807 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.413243, 2.753270

1.40.5. Islas Canarias 7,422 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 28.515809, -15.763786

1.40.6. Cantabria 1,321 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.214143, -3.996018

1.40.7. Castile and León 6,119 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.645373, -4.425987

1.40.8. Castilla–La Mancha 2,810 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.676153, -3.161984

1.40.9. Catalunya 26,133 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.683850, 1.933068

1.40.10. Comunidad Valenciana 16,470 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.273944, -0.403442

ethic

  • La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie sus gatos antes de escalar.
  • Use su propio material para top-ropes.
  • Cepille las vías y el magnesio al terminar la vía.
  • Llévese su basura, colillas, y papel higiénico.
  • Aparque con consideración y no bloquee pasos de tractores.

  • Limestone is soft – please, clean your shoes off dirt before climbing.
  • Use your own gear for top-rope set-ups.
  • Brush the line and remove all tick marks and chalk excess.
  • Pick up rubbish, cigarette butts, and your toilet paper.
  • Park considerately and don't block essential laybys or farm access.

1.40.11. Extremadura 513 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 39.211801, -6.116753

1.40.12. Galicia 4,410 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.859158, -8.111456

summary

Galicia is quite rainy in winter, but very nice in summer, with moderate temperatures that contrast with those of the rest of Spain. There is a good amount of quality sport climbing and bouldering.

description

Guidebooks:

  • Rocha Nai - Alfonso Louro y Gustavo Vázquez (ISBN:9788493990763) La más actualizada
  • Galicia Vertical - Miguel Seoane y Javier Carreras (ISBN: 8460566870) Descatalogada.
  • Escalada Tradicional en "Faro de Budiño" - José Juan Domínguez
  • Boulder en Galicia. Guía zona Norte - Alejandro López (ISBN:9788493990718)
  • Pena Corneira Guía de Boulder - César Álvarez (ISBN:9788493990732)
  • Escaladas Costa da Morte - Ignacio López
  • Guía de Bulder de Pedra Rubia y Portecelo - César Álvarez
  • Topos and GPS locations for bouldering https://www.blokopedia.es/blokopedia/
  • Topos and GPS locations for sport climbing https://www.blokopedia.es/climbipedia/

access issues

The access to some crags (like "Canon del Sil", "Covas" or "Presa do Eume") is regulated. Make sure to check https://escaladasostenible.org/regulaciones/ and consult the guidebook guidelines.

Also, some classic crags in the Enciña da Lastra area are now closed due to conservation efforts, like Penedos de Oulego or sectors in Covas like "Caliza Ceibe".

approach

Quite standard for most of the inland areas, but very particular for the seaside cliffs (rappeling, low tide...). Take a look at the instructions int the guidebook and be especially cautious with the sea.

where to stay

Some of the crags have large parking areas where one can sleep in a van. Camping with objects outside of your vehicle is illegal in all Spain (tents, furniture), as well as making fire. Bivouacking is legal unless stated otherwise, as long as you don't use a tent.

ethic

The route developers have put a lot of effort into keeping the coastal climbing safe, and most of the bolts in seaside cliffs are glue-in inox anchors or inox bolts. Despite this, be always aware that coast climbing is especially dagnerous and check the guidebooks to see the re-bolting dates. Since winters are very humid, some effort is also put into cleaning the moss off some routes in spring, so contribute when possible (without harming any protected species).

There is an emerging clean climbing current, so even though in some old areas there are bolted cracks, in the modern crags there is always room for trad climbing.

In general, most of the local climbers share their new developments and are very kind to visitors, with only a few anecdotal exceptions for some specific areas.

history

The first signs of non-alpine climbing in Galicia are mainly in Petón do Xalo, Monte Galiñeiro and Faro de Budiño, in the 60s and 70s. In the 80s, and 90s, hundreds of routes were developed in inland and lots new coastal crags. A lot of old aid lines were also freed in this period. All this development is reflected in the publication of Galicia Vertical, the first climbing guidebook for the area (1997).

Bouldering became popular in the 90s and 2000s with the descovery of areas like Costa da Morte (Mens and Corme) or Pena Corneira and has been an important discipline ever since.

Between 2014 and 2018, a massive re-bolting of the seaside crags was undertaken, and in the last 5 years, a lot of crags with easier beginner-friendly routes were bolted all around Galicia. The publication of Rocha Nai (2020), a new updated guidebook, has given a new push to climbing in Galicia.

1.40.13. Madrid 5,195 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 40.501521, -3.722009

1.40.14. Murcia 2,899 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.038600, -1.362079

description

Murcia es una región de escalada que cuenta con multitud de zonas de escalada con estilos muy variados. En su diversidad de escuelas de escalada encontramos entornos naturales muy heterogéneos desde la costa hasta el interior de la Región de Murcia. Algunos sectores tienen restricciones de escalada por nidificación y conservación de especies protegidas de fauna y flora, por lo que es conveniente estar informado/a con antelación. Existen diversas guías de escalada de la Región de Murcia:

  • La guía de referencia más utilizada es la web https://gonzaloclimb.com/, en la que encontramos los CROQUIS de numerosos sectores con información detallada.

  • Levante Climbs South, de Renaud Moulin y José Luís Palao, contiene sectores de escalada del interior de la Región de Murcia, Nerpio y Alicante.

  • Escaladas en el Litoral Murciano, de Juan Carlos Ortiz Tudela, contiene los sectores de escalada de la costa de Murcia.

  • Escalada en Sierra Espuña, de Angel Ortiz Martínez y José Matas Sánchez, es una guía detallada de escalada en Sierra Espuña que contiene gran variedad de sectores e información.

  • Guía de Boulder de Rambla Perea (Mula) es una guía de algunos sectores de bloque de la Rambla Perea que puede encontrarse en el Bar de Juanjo de Puebla de Mula.

  • Escalada en el Altiplano. Yecla, Jumilla y Caudete, de José Miguel Díaz Gil.

  • Escaladas en el Municipio de Murcia, de Ángel Ortiz Martínez y José Matas Sánchez es una guía algo desactualizada a día de hoy que contiene algunos sectores del Municipio de Murcia.

En Murcia también podemos encontrar numerosas vías ferratas. Para consultar la información podemos consultar la web https://gonzaloclimb.com/ o la guía Ferratas del Levate Peninsular, de Aitor Martínez.

ethic

Existen ciertos preceptos éticos mínimos sobre el entorno natural y la escalada que debemos tener presentes:

  • No se debe alterar el equipamiento de las vías ni de los sectores. Ante cualquier desperfecto lo más conveniente es notificarlo a los/as equipadores/as locales.

  • Utilice su propio material para la escalada en Top-Rope hasta recogerlo en el último descuelgue.

  • Cepille el magnesio de las paredes de escalada al acabar y no deje marcas o clecas.

  • Respete las restricciones de escalada por nidificación y conservación de fauna y flora.

  • No se debe arrancar ni cortar plantas o arbustos, ya que Murcia cuenta con especies en peligro de extinción.

  • Siempre se debe respetar el entono natural y rural, lo que incluye no dejar ningún tipo de basura o restos orgánicos, respetar los senderos y las construcciones del entorno y respetar los aparcamientos.

  • Eduque a su perro para la convivencia en entornos de escalada y mantenlo bajo control.

1.40.15. Navarra 1,803 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.951007, -1.533922

1.40.16. Pais Vasco 3,720 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.995834, -2.587739

access issues

Bizkaia

Mapa Regulaciones Bizkaia

Anexo Regulaciones Bizkaia

Gipuzkoa

Regulaciones Gipuzkoa

Zonas escalada Gipuzkoa

Araba

No hay disponible un documento unificado. Consultar restricciones en cada escuela

1.40.17. La Rioja 355 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.290219, -2.403858

1.41. Sweden 20,506 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 62.224932, 17.083754

description

Climbing with different characteristics and quality spread around the country. With some exceptions mainly single pitch and bouldering on granite. Areas worth to check out if visiting is Bohuslän, Västervik, Göteborg.

Overview of Swedish climbing areas: http://www.sverigeforaren.se

https://nicemd.github.io/Sverigeforaren/

access issues

Please used designated parking areas. Check Sweden climbing association access database: https://access.klatterforbundet.se/

1.41.1. Lapland 110 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Ice climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 66.778993, 18.960101

summary

1.41.2. Norra kustlandet 761 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 64.679976, 20.455071

summary

Nothern coast

description

North coast guidebook: Guidebook (Info and webshop) http://borrbult.blogspot.com/p/webshop.html

1.41.3. Jämtland 480 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 63.137947, 14.187817

1.41.4. Sundsvall 283 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 62.332781, 16.732058

description

1.41.5. Dalarna 297 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 61.071289, 14.463520

description

1.41.6. Gävle 16 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 60.604165, 17.057030

1.41.7. Uppsala 470 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 59.769700, 17.424533

1.41.8. Västmanland 61 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 59.800756, 16.206143

1.41.9. Södermanland 441 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 59.061616, 16.733918

1.41.10. Stockholm 4,345 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 59.266662, 17.988659

description

Stockholm has around 150 documented cliffs with a height between 10-40 meters. All in all here is more than 2 500 routes on these cliffs. The city and its neighbouring archipelago makes some of the climbing very beautiful, especially summer time when you can climb almost 24h a day.

Links:

1.41.11. Örebro 71 routes in Region

Summary:
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 59.389801, 15.029315

1.41.12. Skaraborg 53 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 58.446106, 13.617541

1.41.13. Östergötland 990 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 58.338369, 15.752591

1.41.14. Gotland 71 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Top roping and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 57.552988, 18.579589

1.41.15. Jönköping 65 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 57.493214, 14.372427

1.41.16. Bohuslän 3,081 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 58.576557, 11.845697

description

Bohusläns climbing club: https://www.bohuskk.se/

Crackoholic 90 min film about the climbing history of Bohuslän by Jonas Paulsson and Mikael Widerberg

Current guidebook is out of print, new edition planned for late 2023. Current Topo of 27 crags and on Gryttr for the bouldering (online and print available).

access issues

General sensitive access situation. In some cases very sensitive.

Bohuslän climbing club access info: https://bohuskk.se/access/

Summary: - Avoid camping and make fires close to climbing crags and swim spots. - Use camp sites. - Avoid sleep in your car / van close to climbing crags and swim spots. - Check latest access info. - Car share. Parking is an issue at many crags. - Keep low profile.

where to stay

Bohuslän climbing club cabin:

https://bohuskk.se/klubbstugan/

Camping run by the farm just next to the crag Häller.

https://www.hallerklattercamping.se/en/

Villa Bro. Lodge in brodalen.

https://www.villabro.se/

1.41.17. Göteborg 4,215 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 57.676721, 12.083530

1.41.18. Borås 488 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 57.600121, 13.028701

1.41.19. Halland 307 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 56.845771, 12.898197

1.41.20. Skåne 2,038 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 55.883883, 13.527574

1.41.21. Blekinge 242 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 56.295036, 15.294017

1.41.22. Hälsingland 173 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 61.570249, 16.374080

1.41.23. Värmland 242 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 59.808572, 13.124683

1.41.24. Kalmar 1,206 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 57.640268, 16.174538

1.42. Switzerland 46,579 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.800005, 8.242850

summary

Bouldering, single and multi-pitch sport climbing, trad and alpine lines in the alps - Switzerland has it all. Crags for any season and any level, typically easy to reach and in stunning environments.

description

Switzerland contains three basic topographical areas: the Swiss Alps to the south (Alpen), the Swiss Plateau or Central Plateau (also called Mittelland), and the "Jura" mountains on the west.

All 3 areas offer plenty of climbing, obviously in very different environments.

The alps (Alpen) offer everything, from bouldering in world class spots such as Magic Wood, Cresciano or Chironico to name just a few to single- and multi-pitch sport climbing on all sorts of rock types and alpine climbs on some of the highest summits in the alps.

The Central Plateau (Mittelland) offers climbing and bouldering in a more gentle environment, often on the foothills of the alps or the base of the Jura.

The "Jura", being a much older mountain range than the alps, offers gentler slopes with elevations below 1800m ASL. Many of the climbing spots in the Jura have historic significance and are - due to their lower elevation and favourable climate - good for climbing year round.

Short distances, great public transport and a huge choice of climbing spots make Switzerland one of the most important climbing destinations in Europe.

approach

Switzerland is located in the center of Europe and easy to reach from almost anywhere.

1.42.1. Jura 10,453 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.138347, 7.071905

1.42.2. Mittelland 1,632 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.144464, 7.881861

1.42.3. Alpen 34,494 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.642374, 8.645683

1.43. Ukraine 4,660 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.650984, 31.602458

description

1.43.1. Crimea 2,186 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.237520, 34.381618

description

1.43.2. Dovbush Rocks 356 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 49.046150, 23.680510

summary

description

1.43.3. Dovbush bouldering 88 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.038997, 23.685392

description

history

This bouldering area was cleaned up by the climbers from Lviv. Also hosts a climbing festival "Honduras fest"

1.43.4. Kamyanets' 155 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.670018, 26.578114

summary

One of the biggest climbing areas in Ukraine, located in a very interesting historic town - Kamyanets'-Podilskyy.

1.43.5. Buky 97 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.090484, 30.398462

summary

High quality granite, beautiful lines with wide range of grades

description

Buky is cozy climbing crag with great and high-quality routes. Located in one of the most picturesque areas of Ukraine - this place is a must visit - even without climbing. Great camping areas. Facebook community https://www.facebook.com/Buki-Climbing-2565199086876487/

access issues

Nothing special on access - it's free and good for camping.

approach

The nearest cities is Kiev - the capital, and Cherkassy - regional center. Public transport available from Cherkassy. Easy 5 minutes walk from bus stop in Buky village

where to stay

Camping (though no facilities for it - just on the ground right on the site

1.43.6. Yamel'nytsia rope 127 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.169258, 23.480089

1.43.7. Yamel'nytsia bouldering 156 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.150570, 23.479836

description

1.43.8. Chykalivka quarry 68 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.995076, 33.589914

description

1.43.9. Knyazhi Skeli 62 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.096505, 23.611784

summary

Княжі скелі - скельний масив з трьох основних великих скель і багатьох менших.

description

Кня́жі ске́лі — група скель, що височіють над долиною р. Стрий. Розташовані у Сколівському районі Львівської області, при північній околиці села Тишівниця, неподалік від с. Нижнє Синьовидне.

Максимальна відносна висота скель — 42 м. Являють собою ерозійні останці палеогенових пісковиків ямненської світи.

Популярний об'єкт гірського туризму, альпінізму і екстремального маунтбайкінгу. Поряд, на лівому березі річки, обладнано місця для кемпінгу. Виділяють три скельні останці: Княжа скеля, Ярославна і Ханська. Зі скелі Ярославна відкривається чудовий панорамний вигляд на долину річки Стрий.

approach

найшвидше - з траси київ-чоп - 25 хв. пішки або з верхнього синевидного через пішохідний міст по хребту - 1:20 год

1.43.10. Chortovi Skeli 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.829100, 24.117128

summary

Small sandstone crag near Lviv with some nice short sport climbing routes and a few boulder problems.

description

Picturesque area with free camping, easily accessible from Lviv by public transport or car.

access issues

Free of charge.

approach

The crag is situated between Lviv and Vinniky in Vinnik forest. You can take bus from Lviv to Vinniky (Львів-Винники) - № 36,36А,7А and stop at "Vinniky lake" (Винникове озеро). From here go through wooden gate and follow marked trail until you reach the crag. Shorter approach is from Lysynychi (Лисиничі).

where to stay

Plenty accommodations in Lviv, or you can pinch a tent near the crag in a forest.

ethic

Sandstone is fragile in this crag. Please don't climb during or right after the rain. Let the rock dry to preserve it. Take all your garbage with you.

Sometimes in spring you can see bird nests on some routes. If so, please avoid climbing them.

1.43.11. Yuzhnoukrainsk 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.804568, 31.177112

summary

description

A small climbing area with granite vertical routes up to 7b. Mostly 5c-6c.

access issues

You can camp close to the rocks.

1.43.12. Yuznoukrainsk bouldering 55 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 47.816264, 31.162082

description

1.43.13. Dzvonyha 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.009242, 28.574252

summary

description

1.43.14. Khortytsa 47 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.818048, 35.099910

description

Full guidebook http://bit.ly/2vr312r

1.43.15. Korostyshiv 107 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.349882, 29.133768

description

where to stay

1.43.16. Deneshi 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.201289, 28.387631

description

1.43.17. Zhytomyr 49 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.266945, 28.676505

description

1.43.18. Kaspich Roсks (Dynamo) 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.219080, 28.463872

summary

1.43.19. Sokil'skyi hrebet 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.242627, 25.071753

summary

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gzA2TD9Fa2RIMYLpX72AifBU2olKVCI8/view Beautiful location, 8 sport climbing routes, 12 top rope routes Potential for 50 routes

1.43.20. Smerekovyi kamin' 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.399812, 23.073501

description

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eA1Oj0GyYVQ&feature=emb_logo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53NuPRGuRH8

approach

1.43.21. Onokivtsi 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
Top roping, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.658437, 22.345577

summary

Guidebook http://tiny.cc/dsh7tz

Nice little rock near the water channel, 10 min. by public bus from Uzhgorod. The moves on the routes are interesting. Top Rope only.

1.43.22. Migiya 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.005480, 30.994361

description

where to stay

1.43.23. Bilyj Kamin' 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.493433, 24.564263

summary

1.43.24. Чорна гора 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.140584, 23.079692

summary

3-4 маршрути. Багато живого!!!

description

1.43.25. Ostriv Paskhy (Kamjanka) 258 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.042726, 23.578009

summary

description

Bouldering area with amazing boulders. Almost every year this area hosts a bouldering festival.

approach

30-40 minutes walk uphill from the parking area

1.43.26. KorchynWood 149 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.081487, 23.513413

1.43.27. Mountain Kliuch 92 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.038749, 23.603529

description

Very nice forest bouldering area, excellent quality boulder

approach

1.43.28. Yaremche bouldering 14 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.460313, 24.579139

1.43.29. Kremenets bouldering 206 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.112194, 25.733415

summary

Official guide https://27crags.com/crags/kremenets Please use it and do not copy info on theCrag.

1.43.30. Ivanivka bouldering 45 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 47.883639, 31.111704

description

https://youtu.be/BBttOY0rpPg

1.43.31. Protyate Kaminya 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 48.165240, 25.160718

1.43.32. Boguslav 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.540756, 30.879240

description

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKMyAGWsdEQ

1.43.33. Velyka Orlynka 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 47.887350, 33.307856

summary

Several top rope and lead routes

1.43.34. Sabariv 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.190965, 28.462566

summary

Три часа от Киева. Красивый поворот реки. Огромный луг. В левой части скалы будет 9-10 трасс. Потенциал правой части пока тяжело оценить.

1.43.35. Dnipro 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.451960, 35.063279

1.43.36. Sokolets' 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Top roping

Lat / Long: 48.688964, 22.534058

1.43.37. Zuevka 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Top roping

Lat / Long: 48.060449, 38.291696

1.43.38. Korosten' 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.903190, 28.565631

1.43.39. Novograd Volynksyi 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.619295, 27.625153

1.43.40. Devil's valley 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.723715, 31.482097

description

1.43.41. Cerkivna bouldering 8 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.001400, 23.788701

1.43.42. Arbuzinka bouldering 0 routes in Field

description

1.43.43. Lover's rock bouldering 1 route in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.865575, 28.365894

description

1.43.44. Tustan' Wild bouldering 0 routes in Field

1.43.45. Yaremche trad 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.439955, 24.554135

summary

Trad only

1.43.46. Kostel rock (Gorgan) trad 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.401165, 24.647843

summary

Trad only

1.43.47. Shpytsi trad 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 48.121295, 24.561160

summary

1.43.48. Nadsluchans'ki granity trad 0 routes in Crag

summary

description

10 routes, some trad routes, needs additional info

1.43.49. Mountain Dobryana 0 routes in Field

summary

Wild bouldering area.

description

1.43.50. Korets' 0 routes in Crag

summary

https://uk.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9A%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B5%D1%86%D1%8C%D0%BA%D1%96_%D0%B3%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%BD%D1%96%D1%82%D0%B8_(%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%BA%D0%B0%D0%B7%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%BA)

description

5-6 routes, needs additional information

1.43.51. Mezhybrody 0 routes in Crag

summary

Nice rock to bolt in the future

description

1.43.52. Truhaniv 0 routes in Crag

summary

Wild bouldering and high rocks to bolt in the future

description

1.43.53. Kinashki rocks 0 routes in Crag

summary

To bolt in the future

description

https://uk.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%A1%D0%BA%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%96_%C2%AB%D0%9A%D1%96%D0%BD%D0%B0%D1%88%D0%BA%D0%B8%C2%BB

1.43.54. Aktovskyi kanyon (Mertvovod) 0 routes in Crag

1.43.55. Kramatorsk 0 routes in Area

summary

1.43.56. Ternoshors'ka Lada 0 routes in Area

summary

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQZtinrzEVE

1.43.57. Wild rocks 0 routes in Cliff

description

Wild rocks

1.43.58. Ugorski skeli 0 routes in Cliff

description

Wild rocks

1.43.59. Kyiv 0 routes in Crag

1.43.60. Ban'kiv 0 routes in Area

summary

Up to 10 routes potential to bolt in the future

1.43.61. Lekechi rocks 0 routes in Area

summary

15 routes potential to bolt in the future

1.43.62. Скелі над селом Крива 0 routes in Crag

1.44. United Kingdom 61,567 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 55.347134, -3.114043

1.44.1. England 39,746 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.774502, -1.840212

1.44.2. Scotland 5,376 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 57.957154, -4.168720

1.44.3. Wales 15,109 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.400145, -4.066234

1.44.4. Northern Ireland 1,336 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 54.615645, -6.492651

summary

Northern Ireland boasts some incredible sea cliffs and some lovely inland mountain climbing. A strict trad ethic is in place for all of Northern Ireland

description

Northern Ireland has two main areas, both with a very different feel. Fair head is a stunning sea cliff crag with dolerite rock and great gear, mostly crack climbing. The Mourne mountains offer a great contrast with very bold limestone in a mountain setting.

access issues

Northen Ireland is has strictly traditional ethics. Some bouldering areas exist, but no hardware is to be placed on any rock. Most crag access is through private farm land, please respect the owners.

approach

The city of Belfast allows a good base for all climbing in Northern Ireland. The Mournes can be accessed by bus, however you will need a car to get to Fair Head.

where to stay

Many hostels and hotels exist in belfast centre, or you can find inns closer to the crags.

ethic

No hardware to be placed on any rock in Northern Ireland. Strictly trad and bouldering. Please contact local climbers before setting new routes.

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