Bulgaria Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Bulgaria 5,323 routes in Region

9 1 14 6 3 16 4 15 2 13 12 10 8 7 5 11

1 Belogradtschik 2 Bozhenitsa 3 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave 4 Lakatnik 5 Pirin 6 Pleven 7 Plovdiv 8 Rila 9 Ruse 10 Sliven 11 Smolyan 12 Sofia 13 Sredna Stara planina 14 Varna 15 Veliko Tarnovo 16 Vratsa

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.762920, 25.421573

description

Bulgaria is a country in South East Europe, with an area of 111,000 sq km, which offers climbing areas of all types:

• bouldering,
• sport climbing
• traditional (up to 200 meter routes)
• ice climbing (only in winter)
• DWS.

Map of climbing areas (in Bulgarian) : http://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?smap=1 (also some topos)

Some area descriptions: http://climbing-in-bulgaria.blogspot.de/

1.1. Belogradtschik 1,107 routes in Crag

4 1 3 2 5 6 7 9 8

1 Dabrawka 2 Tschiflik 3 Belogradtschik 4 Kranzberge 5 Izvos 6 Sabubinstein 7 Borowitza 8 Repljana 9 Gjurgitsch

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.540993, 22.734479

1.1.1. Dabrawka 64 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.624461, 22.615043

1.1.2. Tschiflik 98 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.617341, 22.650158

1.1.3. Belogradtschik 476 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.620441, 22.689644

1.1.4. Kranzberge 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.636570, 22.696186

1.1.5. Izvos 217 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.608572, 22.681560

1.1.6. Sabubinstein 62 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.601993, 22.707717

1.1.7. Borowitza 160 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.594111, 22.756404

1.1.8. Repljana 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.515471, 22.747134

1.1.9. Gjurgitsch 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.524392, 22.833563

1.1.10. Garda 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Bozhenitsa 170 routes in Area

2 1

1 Krepostta 2 Pod polyanata

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.996181, 23.828105

1.2.1. Krepostta 44 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.986807, 23.824697

1.2.2. Pod polyanata 126 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.012071, 23.838141

1.3. Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave 98 routes in Crag

8 7 6 4 3 5 2 1

1 Pop folk 2 Hip Hop 3 Black Metal 4 Nepobedim 5 Kak shte gi stignem 6 Sever 7 El Choro 8 Podarak

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.182818, 24.076106

summary

Big cave with two entrances, that has two big holes in it known as "God's eyes".

description

Big cave with many routes, bolting is safe but sparse, the cave goes up to 40m and there are a few climbs that go through the eyes. There is climbing for everyone from 4s to 9s. The cave is a fun playground, but could be intimidating if you are a beginner.

If you are coming here bring knee pads for the harder routes.

The cave seeps so wait a few days if you are to climb here after it has rained.

access issues

To ensure the safety of everyone, when climbing during the weekends, climbers are urged to avoid the sectors that are close to the path, namely: "Pop folk" (south entrance - left side), Nepobedim (middle part - right side), Kak shte gi stignem (middle part - left side), and El Choro (exit - right side). Instead use the sectors: Hip Hop (south entrance - right side), Black Metal (after the entrance - right side), Sever (exit - left side) - without the section with "Pchelichkata Maya", and Podarak (outside the cave).

approach

One of the easiest approaches ever, put the GPS coordinates and park at the south entrance of the crag.

(43.17479, 24.07461)

https://youtu.be/W_L5SaYFGzQ

where to stay

Camping at the entrance to the cave on the rolling green hills. There are a couple of shepards who move their animals through the area. They are nice and it is normal to offer them a gift or some Rakija (alcoholic spirits) and they will often give you some of their homemade cheese or milk. There is also a nearby alpine hut or you can stay in a guest house in Karlukovo.

Make sure to bring water and food with you at the crag. There are no toilets so clean up after yourselves.

ethic

Keep a low profile. Don't camp in the cave. Don't light fires in the cave, avoid climbing in the cave on weekends. No climbing between 6pm and 7am so you do not disturb the birds and local wild life. Do not bolt or draw on the rocks.

1.3.1. Pop folk 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.175155, 24.073849

description

The first walls on the left as you walk down into the cave from the parking/camping area

1.3.2. Hip Hop 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.175143, 24.074272

description

The right hand walls as you walk in from the parking/camping area

1.3.3. Black Metal 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.175605, 24.073927

description

Nice vertical wall further in past Hip Hop wall

1.3.4. Nepobedim 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.175878, 24.073278

description

The wall to the right of the 'Right Eye'

1.3.5. Kak shte gi stignem 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.175585, 24.072939

description

The wall under the 'Eyes'

1.3.6. Sever 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.176713, 24.072336

description

The wall on the left as you exit the cave if you've walked all the way through from the parking/camping area

1.3.7. El Choro 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.176858, 24.072981

description

The wall on the right as you exit the cave if you've walked all the way down from the parking/camping area

1.3.8. Podarak 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.177599, 24.072860

description

Outside of the cave, after El Choro. Right side.

1.4. Lakatnik 511 routes in Area

4 2 5 3 7 1 6 8

1 Alpiyska polyana 2 Gubislav 3 Krasta 4 Opletnya 5 Petrenski dol 6 Vodenitsata 7 Vrazhite dupki 8 Yavorets

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.087121, 23.385976

1.4.1. Alpiyska polyana 80 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.087901, 23.380022

1.4.2. Gubislav 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.096210, 23.328184

1.4.3. Krasta 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.090259, 23.382861

1.4.4. Opletnya 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.104552, 23.439229

1.4.5. Petrenski dol 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.090819, 23.370391

1.4.6. Vodenitsata 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.085195, 23.373396

1.4.7. Vrazhite dupki 319 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.088715, 23.364489

summary

Excellent venue for winter climbing. For more info and visual description:

https://youtu.be/OIXQ3WeWI2g

description

One of Bulgaria's most famous crags. It is 60km away from Sofia. The climbs are known for their soft grades, but also they are not easy to onsight. Supreme location!

access issues

There is no bathroom at the crag.

approach

Park here and follow the signs (43.0867, 23.37)

The path is not steep and goes through a nice evergreen tree forrest.

where to stay

You can bivvy at the crag, you can camp at Alpine Valley or there are guest houses in the area

ethic

Do not use the caves as a bathroom. No bolting or creating artificial holds. Friends and cams are allowed when necessary as long as they do not damage the rock.

1.4.8. Yavorets 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.037194, 23.401748

1.5. Pirin 70 routes in Region

1

1 Bansko

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 41.652488, 23.527132

1.5.1. Bansko 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.808356, 23.458730

1.5.2. Hizha Demyanitsa 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.5.3. Hizha Sinanitsa 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.5.4. Vihren 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Alpine climbing

1.5.5. Yavorov 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Alpine climbing and Trad climbing

1.5.6. Vrah Pirin 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.6. Pleven 180 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Kaylaka 2 Lovech

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.318137, 24.677353

1.6.1. Kaylaka 52 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.377750, 24.622690

1.6.2. Lovech 128 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.184563, 24.561207

1.7. Plovdiv 151 routes in Region

2 4 1 3 5

1 Bryanovshtitsa 2 Plovdiv Tepetata 3 Slaveevi skali 4 Tamrash 5 Mostovo - mahala Ryakata

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.076169, 24.793879

1.7.1. Bryanovshtitsa 51 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.011670, 24.596090

1.7.2. Plovdiv Tepetata 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.140605, 24.762767

1.7.3. Slaveevi skali 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.890928, 24.800343

description

The crag is rather new and there is still lose rock, wear helmets!

https://youtu.be/4stmVObW8vA

approach

Start at the parking. Go behind the water tap and follow the signs. Careful as the footing can sometimes be steep. (41.89144, 24.8006)

history

The crag was bolted in memory of Slaveya Stoicheva. The project was started by Krum Sirakov and the bolting done by Dimitar Kostadinov and Simeon Ignatov.

1.7.4. Tamrash 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.023161, 24.624462

summary

The perfect place nearby Plovdiv to make your first steps in lead climbing and trad climbing.

description

Tamrash is a recently developed crag ideal for climbers who are just getting into the sport. The best time to climb here is late autumn, winter and early spring. If you come here during the summer come early in the morning. The crag faces South West so it is in the sun for most of the day. For more information, watch this video detailing the crag:

https://youtu.be/nahdnA2tGN4

access issues

None

approach

Park your car here (42.01845, 24.61191)

where to stay

You can stay in Hrabrino or Plovdiv

ethic

Leave no trace

history

The crag is relatively new so make sure to always wear a helmet. The people who have taken part in developing it are: Peter Angeliev, Ovi Armeneca, Dimitar Dimitrov, Georgi Georgiev, Georgi Arabadjiev, Georgi Chernozemski , Rosen Ruev and others.

1.7.5. Mostovo - mahala Ryakata 19 routes in Region

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.855340, 24.951076

1.8. Rila 833 routes in Region

2 1 10 7 11 6 16 5 15 4 12 3

1 Beli Iskar 2 Borovets 3 Granchar 4 Malyovitsa 5 Musala 6 Sedemte ezera 7 Skakavitsa 10 Kostenets 11 Levi Iskar - Mala Tsarkva 12 Malyovitsa i Elenino ezero 15 Zaslon BAK 16 Zaslon Strashno ezero

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.194797, 23.553754

1.8.1. Beli Iskar 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.244568, 23.550231

1.8.2. Borovets 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.251397, 23.604210

1.8.3. Granchar 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.093415, 23.562960

1.8.4. Malyovitsa 83 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 42.180166, 23.385985

1.8.5. Musala 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.189804, 23.582709

1.8.6. Sedemte ezera 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.198460, 23.321037

1.8.7. Skakavitsa 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 42.221131, 23.305711

1.8.8. Zavrachitsa 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.8.9. Kirilova polyana 386 routes in Field

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

1.8.10. Kostenets 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.239696, 23.805135

summary

A great summer climbing location, it has two sectors one faces East(Nad Rekata) and has nice overhangs, the other faces West(Nad Patya) and offers face climbing.

description

Located between the cities of Sofia and Plovdiv, Kostenets is an ideal summer climbing venue. This crag offers 2 sectors: Over the road and Over the river.

https://youtu.be/dW5BPSNh-lY.

Over the road sector is full of slabby and face sport climbing from font 5c to 7c+ Over the river sector is the opposite, with steep overhanging climbing from font 6c+ to 8a+

access issues

None

approach

Park your car at this parking and begin your walk. Go forward the path, take the first left and keep walking until you see the sectors. A visual walk-in can be seen in the video above.

(, 42.25,23.8061 )

where to stay

You can stay in the village of Kostenets, in Kostenets or Plovdiv or Sofia.

history

This crag was bolted in 2017, meaning it is relatively new so make sure to always wear a helmet. The people who have taken part in developing it are: Nikolay Petkov, Elitsa Pavlova, Doychin Boyanov, Nikola Kalistrin, Martin Penkov, Vasil Tsvetkov, Konstantin Kostadinov and Boyko Lalov.

1.8.11. Levi Iskar - Mala Tsarkva 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.212367, 23.500256

1.8.12. Malyovitsa i Elenino ezero 66 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.174344, 23.363903

1.8.13. Urdina reka 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.8.14. Vtora terasa 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

1.8.15. Zaslon BAK 98 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.181668, 23.374197

1.8.16. Zaslon Strashno ezero 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.188878, 23.437475

1.9. Ruse 185 routes in Region

4 1 2 5 3 6

1 Basarbovo 2 Koshov 3 Pepelina 4 Ruse Kulata 5 Tabachka 6 Shirokovo

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.566788, 26.108447

1.9.1. Basarbovo 56 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.762514, 25.950803

1.9.2. Koshov 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.668348, 25.990013

1.9.3. Pepelina 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.583303, 25.942808

1.9.4. Ruse Kulata 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.809306, 25.941176

1.9.5. Tabachka 55 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.611649, 25.978826

description

Limestone climbing just south of Ruse in Bulgaria's north. Many climbers from Bucharest in Romania climb here when the Carpathians have bad weather.

1.9.6. Shirokovo 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.549892, 25.940121

summary

Very solid limestone

description

https://escaladasportiva.wordpress.com/2021/06/08/shirokovo-bulgaria-topo-actualizat-15-01-2021/

approach

The crag is just outside the village of Shirokovo (Dve Mogili) near the road 43°32’59.0″N 25°56’25.6″E or 43.549726, 25.940435

1.10. Sliven 140 routes in Crag

1

1 Dolapite

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.622760, 26.379972

1.10.1. Dolapite 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.705653, 26.327446

1.10.2. Karandila 75 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.10.3. Karandila - Iztochni skali 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

1.10.4. Mochurite 33 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.11. Smolyan 45 routes in Area

3 4 2 1 5 6

1 Turluka 2 Sokolov Kamak 3 The Needle Rock 4 Beshirov's rock 5 Sredok 6 Kechi Kaya

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.627517, 24.626095

1.11.1. Turluka 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.595986, 24.690308

approach

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1STi7oaryRg4zEo3qKypliG2AAJY3hyQ&usp=sharing

1.11.2. Sokolov Kamak 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.607428, 24.700142

summary

East-facing crag with a stunning 360 panorama.

description

Small crag with few but high quality routes.

approach

25 min walk following a steep trail.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1PBF7URc24PCjmj4ZkiPWf-GkCrArVkg&usp=sharing

where to stay

There are plenty of options for accommodation in Smolyan. Wild camping is also a possibility.

1.11.3. The Needle Rock 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.627849, 24.674677

1.11.4. Beshirov's rock 0 routes in Crag

1.11.5. Sredok 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.577803, 24.643768

approach

The cliff is easily visible from the road. There's a big parking at the turn right below it. The trail starts right of the creek across the road. At the huge fallen tree that blocks the path, turn left and follow a barely visible trail for another 5-10 min. Then at a cairn take the steep slope to the right that leads to the base of the cliff.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1iB6lHy1wEhJKlsPdpMlF6aY4b9wiX9Y&usp=sharing

1.11.6. Kechi Kaya 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.479262, 24.875903

summary

Beautiful place with a stunning view and ancient ruins nearby.

description

New conglomerate crag under development. Not far from Rudozem.

approach

Eco trail "Kechi Kaya - Koznik".

1.12. Sofia 469 routes in Crag

9 6 4 5 8 3 2 7 10 1

1 Vitosha 2 Tran 3 Beledie han 4 Breze 5 Dobravishka Skaklya 6 Gintsi 7 Gurgulyat - Petlyuka 8 Kalotina 9 Komshtitsa 10 Sofia - city

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.711590, 23.115276

summary

The capital and largest city of Bulgaria. At least five indoor climbing spots within the city as well as rock climbing/ boulder spots at the outskirts of the city towards Vitosha Mountain.

where to stay

Plenty of hotels, hostels, as well as couch-surfing opportunities.

1.12.1. Vitosha 218 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.577394, 23.243122

1.12.2. Tran 70 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.865013, 22.682242

1.12.3. Beledie han 47 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.895683, 23.175862

1.12.4. Breze 56 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.023960, 23.204406

1.12.5. Dobravishka Skaklya 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.010083, 23.244837

1.12.6. Gintsi 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.062867, 23.103160

1.12.7. Gurgulyat - Petlyuka 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.788760, 22.991572

1.12.8. Kalotina 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.997055, 22.878416

1.12.9. Komshtitsa 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.104916, 23.003447

1.12.10. Sofia - city 0 routes in Area

1.13. Sredna Stara planina 213 routes in Region

1 3 5 2 4 7 6

1 Teteven 2 Ambaritsa 3 Kozya stena 4 Rayskite skali 5 Severen Dzhendem 6 Koprivshtitsa 7 Karlovo

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.718009, 24.791970

1.13.1. Teteven 46 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.894659, 24.279189

1.13.2. Ambaritsa 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.720271, 24.780637

1.13.3. Kozya stena 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.789448, 24.540930

1.13.4. Rayskite skali 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.700377, 24.923992

1.13.5. Severen Dzhendem 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Alpine climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 42.738608, 24.928805

1.13.6. Koprivshtitsa 79 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.565743, 24.347947

summary

Beautiful crag with sharp rock, that doesn't get much traffic. This is where bouldering in Bulgaria started. Prepare to get your hands shreded.

description

A very whimsical crag that has much potential for first ascents, the boulders are situated in a forest. The perfect time to climb is either winter or autumn. The weather during the summer is too hot and too unpredictable in spring. Due to the nature of the rock a person can only climb here for a day. There are stray dogs and cats so make sure to bring food for them.

access issues

The crag is accessible to everyone all year round.

approach

It might be a bit difficult to find the boulders.

(42.566420, 24.347580)

https://youtu.be/gtK2oBPfNdg

where to stay

There are many options where to stay. Next to the boulder field there are picnic benches, established fire pits and even a little shelter. You can camp in the area or alternatively you can find a room to rent in Strelcha or Koprivshtitsa. We recommend checking out the hot mineral springs in the Strelcha area.

ethic

Steel brushes are allowed to clean up the boulders from the vegetation, can also use finer brushes to brush off the holds. Make sure to clean chalk marks after yourselves and pick up your rubbish. Chiseling the boulders, artificially making holds, digging landings or putting any glue ons or other equipment that can be used for high ball bouldering is not allowed.

history

This location was first discovered in the 1980s by Ivan Maslarov and the first 15 boulder routes were developed. In 1998 the official development of the crag has begun.

1.13.7. Karlovo 15 routes in Region

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.658762, 24.807006

1.14. Varna 196 routes in Crag

2 1 6 5 4 3

1 Shumen 2 Kamen bryag 3 Chudnite skali 4 Manastira 5 Provadia 6 Varna Climbing

Summary:

Deep water soloing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.329281, 27.552217

1.14.1. Shumen 27 routes in Region

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.262237, 26.949068

1.14.2. Kamen bryag 102 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 43.474541, 28.570969

description

Deep Water Solo spot at the Black Sea, North East side of Bulgaria. Climbing season is usually from June to September, depending on temperatures. Typical water temperatures in summer are 25 °C in August. Warning! There have been several fatal accidents in the region, due to the nature of DWS as well as the characteristic of many problems.

access issues

Intercity buses or by car. Approximate travel time from major cities by car: Sofia - 7 hours, Veliko Tarnovo - 4 hours, Varna - 1 hour.

where to stay

Small hotels, camping sites. Many spend the night in the open, tenting freely in the many open spaces (not permitted, but still vastly common).

1.14.3. Chudnite skali 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.964881, 27.291549

summary

Sport climbing area

description

National Park area

approach

On Foot 5 min from parking

where to stay

Tents can be put up

ethic

Dont leave trash

history

I believe it was installed by a local climbing club from Varna

1.14.4. Manastira 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.979960, 27.279689

1.14.5. Provadia 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.180423, 27.435819

1.14.6. Varna Climbing 1 route in Gym

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.214775, 27.932648

1.15. Veliko Tarnovo 353 routes in Crag

1 2 3 5 4

1 Sveta Troitsa 2 Usteto East 3 Usteto West 4 Dryanovski manastir 5 Gabrovo - Sevlievo

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.153870, 25.418364

1.15.1. Sveta Troitsa 154 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.128698, 25.618612

approach

Drive to Saint Trinity monastery (Света Троица, Sveta Troica). Park before the monastery, cross it on foot and continue 10 minutes on a narrow road. The rocks are visible from there, find a an uphill path leading to them.

1.15.2. Usteto East 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.069651, 25.635997

description

The west-facing cliff. The definitive guide to this crag seems to be https://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?f=regioninfo&idRegion=11

access issues

15 minutes on foot following the railway lines starting from the railway station and going south. Trains are not that frequent, but some spaces are narrow, extra caution advised.

1.15.3. Usteto West 51 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.069061, 25.633368

description

The east-facing cliff. The definitive guide to this crag seems to be https://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?f=regioninfo&idRegion=12

access issues

A meadow above the routes is reachable by car. 10 minutes by car from the Veliko Tarnovo city center. Nearest bus station to the meadow is 15 minutes away by foot (buses number 30 and 50, get off at the stop on a T-like intersection.

approach

A steep path leads down and sideways to the routes. Routes begin right from the start of the path.

1.15.4. Dryanovski manastir 88 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.948932, 25.434312

description

https://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?f=regioninfo&idRegion=142&lang=en

1.15.5. Gabrovo - Sevlievo 36 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.949852, 25.250761

1.16. Vratsa 602 routes in Area

28 27 22 23 24 1 25 29 5 26 21 3 17 15 4 13 18 14 11 12 19 16 2 20 7 6 9 8 10 30

1 Stegite 2 Malkata dupka 3 Golyamata dupka 4 Zgorigradsai stena 5 Tsentralna stena 6 Reznyovete 7 Meduza 8 Bezengi 9 Golyamata Vrattsá 10 Malkata Vrattsá 11 Veslets 12 Urvich 13 Ivan Vazov 14 Kosmonavti 15 Chayka 16 Zabat 17 Aleko 2 18 Aleko goren 19 Aleko 20 Spartak 21 Dupkite 22 Goren iztochen 23 Petimata ot Hindukush 24 VIF 25 Rabat nad grada 26 Dolen iztochen 27 Iztochna stena 28 Kemera 29 Grazhdanska zashtita 30 Pavolche

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.174243, 23.555491

description

The biggest climbing area in Bulgaria. Offers sport, trad and mixed routes up to 400 m.

access issues

http://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?f=placeinfo&idPlace=1&lang=en&lang=en

where to stay

Camp at the grassy areas on the right and left as you drive up through the gorge. Water is available at a spring on the left camp area.

1.16.1. Stegite 73 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.195250, 23.505556

1.16.2. Malkata dupka 83 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.192448, 23.519330

summary

Nice area for climbing anytime of the year and in any weather. Steep and vertical. Beware of loose rock.

description

http://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?f=regioninfo&idRegion=1&lang=en

approach

Park here (43.1902, 23.5211). Cross the meadow and take the left trail heading uphill. In 15 min. or so turn right towards a big fallen tree. In a minute you'll be at the crag.

1.16.3. Golyamata dupka 61 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.194094, 23.521266

summary

Nice summer venue in Vratsa for hard sport-climbing. You could climb here all year round.

description

Big cave with many overhanging routes, the left side has the harder ones, the right side has the easier ones. The Big hole is a good place for summer climbing, however if you are coming here - beware it is very sunny until noon. You can climb here during rainy days.

access issues

None

approach

Park your car here and begin your approach. For a detailed approach watch the video below. The walk can be a bit steep. (43.1902, 23.5211)

https://youtu.be/hYrZeY2Tqe0

where to stay

You can camp at the parking for the crag, if you prefer a more quiet camping you can camp here: (43.190194, 23.521111)

ethic

You will see permanent quickdraws on some of the routes, do not take them. Make sure to give them a quick inspection for damage.

history

The bolting of the left hand side began in 1995 by Vassil Kirov.

1.16.4. Zgorigradsai stena 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.193596, 23.526801

1.16.5. Tsentralna stena 65 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.194755, 23.530738

1.16.6. Reznyovete 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.191932, 23.528358

1.16.7. Meduza 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.191790, 23.529343

1.16.8. Bezengi 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.191282, 23.529999

1.16.9. Golyamata Vrattsá 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.191370, 23.530774

1.16.10. Malkata Vrattsá 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.191106, 23.531876

1.16.11. Veslets 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.193350, 23.532090

1.16.12. Urvich 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.192664, 23.533036

1.16.13. Ivan Vazov 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.193319, 23.533098

1.16.14. Kosmonavti 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.193250, 23.533693

1.16.15. Chayka 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.193764, 23.534057

1.16.16. Zabat 36 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.192404, 23.534675

1.16.17. Aleko 2 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.193925, 23.536262

1.16.18. Aleko goren 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.193212, 23.536839

1.16.19. Aleko 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.192563, 23.537212

1.16.20. Spartak 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.192041, 23.538135

1.16.21. Dupkite 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.194611, 23.534391

1.16.22. Goren iztochen 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.196402, 23.534005

1.16.23. Petimata ot Hindukush 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.195964, 23.535630

1.16.24. VIF 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.195534, 23.536953

1.16.25. Rabat nad grada 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.195052, 23.538224

1.16.26. Dolen iztochen 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.194535, 23.539429

1.16.27. Iztochna stena 0 routes in Crag

1.16.28. Kemera 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.197761, 23.540589

1.16.29. Grazhdanska zashtita 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.194919, 23.546370

1.16.30. Pavolche 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.153743, 23.592832