Routes in Western Australia for selected grade

Boulder start then up the slab, easing as you will.

Just right of PBP and almost as good. Grade 23 when the Cockatoos are bombing you with honkey nuts.

The line of the crag. Fine steep face and slab climbing on great rock with Druid OH&S approved bolts. Delicate little moves and delicate little holds. Nice.

Face climb (leftish) past 2 bolts to 2BB. Pleasant. Enjoy the train honking.

Start inside the cleft under the corner. jam and stem your way up the wide corner. Fun.

North side of last boulder/buttress. Starts just right of Antimatter Possum, Climb up left arete past bolts. Tricky stepup which could ruin your day if you don't get it first go.

On the furthest small buttress on the right of the crag. climbs right arete past bolts. Sequency. You know you are on a Perth boulder when climbing this

Harder than "Skin Tight".

Climb the balancy corner to lower-off. A good warm-up for greater things in this area. 5 carrots. Easier than "100 Questions".

Start as for "It's a Formidable Scent".

After the first bolt trend right following the bolts to the top.

The crux is between the second and third bolt.

A mix of fun moves.

The crack to the left of Toddler's Delight. Follow the crack up and the left near the top towards the DBB. Lots of pro.

The thin crack 1m to the right of arete.

As per Perth Rock CLimbing 2nd Ed.

Ascend the North side of the balancing egg-like rock. One bolt

Short and thin crack, bring small gear. Top is dirty and quite lose, inspect it first if possible. Walk to the top of the route is only a few minutes.

Climb the face past 3 carrot bolts and aid the roof. Pro required at the roof and after the roof. Carrot bolt anchor at top. So bring plates. The piton on this route is very rusty.

A crack for desperate housewives involving a lay back and a knee bar amongst other delights. 4BR to DBB. J. Truscott, M. Rosser 30 Oct 05

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/three-new-quality-routes-at-boyas-west-bay-back-wall/

The right tending line with layback and reach moves. Get your top off for this one which is visionary and excruciatingly good. 4BR to DBB. J. Truscott, M. Rosser 30 Oct 05

Mantle!

Link Up of Infinite Justice into Five Minutes to Midnight.

Start up IJ. At the fourth bolt traverse right just above the level of the roof to a bolt a metre or two above the middle of the roof. From there two more bolts to top-out just to the right of IJ’s finish. The traverse is thoughtful , especially if you have short legs. It’s not a sports clip-up. A long sling is necessary on the bolt above the roof, to reduce rope-drag and to protect the traverse for the second. Also take a nut. Not to place, there is a fat bolt that accepts no bolt-plate. Slide the nut down the cable and press the loop around the hex head. (there was also a discussion regarding the big blocks just below the top, as to whether they’re sound or held in by mud, seemed ok to me).

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/link-up-in-boya/

Route stays about a meter right of the bolts the whole way up. A medium sized cam helps protect a run out at the top. Tree belay. Beware the very loose muddy section at the top out.

Lots of traversing left with two ledges to rest on and a strenuous mantle finish.

Trending left is V0, trending right V1.

The face right of Lost Arrow with a horizontal break at half height. Start on Slanting Crack (you might want to place gear on the start) and then move left onto the face with two fixed hangers and one carrot after.

Start in the corner at the left edge of smooth slab, as for Caledonian Way. Before reaching top of block, step right onto face and up a shallow groove to finish. Keep the two triangular niches on the right.

Start at the right side of the smooth grey slab 3 m right of Sundowner. Climb the fault past a bolt in a small triangular niche to the sentry box. Exit past the piton in the headwall right of a groove (crux). Scramble to a BR belay.

The sport route with 5 fixed hangers. Up overhanging start, layback over bulge to clip third bolt (crux). Directly up face on small holds, staying out of Gabbro Grove, past two more bolts to top. Two ring bolts at the anchor.

Start 2m right of Bodgy Dolts. Up overhanging groove to stand on large ledge to the right. Up next bulge and climb wall until it steepens, then traverse right into a shallow groove and crack, the mid point of Up for Grabs, to finish.

Start bellow the carrot bolt and then follow the line up to Calophylla Crack before venturing right

Shares Start with Whiskey With A Sting in the Tail and then follows bolts right. Continue past the ledge to find a single bolt to use as an anchor

Start left of Pogue Mahone. Climb the arête.

Start as for Fryaway. Climb to the right of the Fryaway crack.

Delicately climb up to bolt, clip, and run it out to the top. Edit: 2nd fixed hanger has been added.

Starts to the right of Wild Honey Pie. 3 bolts to a DBB.

Start approximately four metres to the right of Anorexia Crimposa. Follow the crimps past four carrot bolts to DBB

Climb the face of the menhir following the 3 carrot bolts to the top.

The DBB at the top is the two carrot bolts located on the back of the boulder.

4 BR - left side of the main face. Steep.

Just a short easy climb with a couple of nice moves. Start at the lowest point below the roof, climb up slightly left to finish. 2 bolts to DBB.

Thin obvious seam, bring micro nuts or RPs. Single CB belay.

Follow arête on the southern face. Use the crack for pro.

Jam, traverse left and then ascend the flakes and crack in the main boulder

Follow the unlikely line of small vertical pockets up the black slab

Left arête, then up left crack.

Unprotected.

From top of Bibbulman Boulders go 75m toward pylon 170.

The off-width with face finish. Follow 2 FH from ledge to DBB. Hangers required for anchor

Start at NN too first bolt, then two bolts to a run out top out 2 carrot bolt belay

Given a route grade in "The Guide" - 8

Slabby route in V-shaped groove. Thin seam provides good pro using nuts and cams. Be careful of loos blocks at bottom, and use good foot work to reach top.

Follow carrots to large block at top, and do interesting moves to reach anchors. To climb at grade 18, stick left of carrots and avoid large jugs to the right.

A long traverse on existing climbs.

Starting from the base of Penthouse, traverse diagonally right all the way across the wall up to the ring bolts of ‘Bumble Sea’. There are about 10 bolts, but with quite a run-out in the middle under the large blast-hole. If you want to, use a long sling (3 metres) and the the bolt in the blast-hole and then come down again. Maybe I’ll put a bolt in someday…

Crux is the last few moves from about the Bumble Aye line up to the ring-bolts, about grade 18 if you keep in the direct line and don’t wimp out and use the stuff right in the corner.

‘Not the Wurst!’ 40 m, grade 18, Phillip and Tracy, and Andvariousothers shouting comments…errr… encouragement in the background.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-mq/

Straight up to 3rd bolt. Head left to gain the 4th, then a balancy traverse right to the large angled handhold and the top.

4m L of Turbodiesel Excavator and 2m R of Shut 'em Down. Start is the crux, then follow the inverted staircase past 4 ringbolts to lower-offs.

Start as for Split Personality, don’t move left as for SP but go directly up on small holds to the ledge. Dynamic moves to get over the headwall. 2BR and small friends. Just brilliant fun.

Start about 3m right of Split Personalties. Climb past 6BR to DBB with much broughaha.

2 bolts to cam placement in vertical crack, 2 more bolts to DBB

Well protected but not straightforward. Start at the bottom of Finger Licking Awful crack and follow this to top, trending L. Up face past 2 bolts then L to shallow vertical grove (large nut), then traverse L along crack with bush to Rage, then up to anchors of Rage. Trad gear and 2 GIMBs.

Start just R of Psychopath. Trend right past 5 FHs (crux), then trad climb up the corner above (gr.12). Just before top of corner traverse R onto face and up to lower-offs just below the arête of On Edge. Cams up to #0.75 Camalot, nuts all sizes. 5 FH, then trad gear.

Loose large blocks at top.

P1 (5 bolts) 17m Move initially left to reach the grey wall before mantling the small ledge then up the slabby ground to reach the boulders and the belay station. P2 (2 bolts) 12m Up to the drummy flakes then use the small holds to gain the sloping ground and the belay/rappel anchors.