Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
South East Hobart and surrounds Fruehauf | |||||
18 | Mononeuron
| 23m | |||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra
| 18m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Waterworks Quarry | |||||
17 | ★ Justin's Crack
FA: Justin Kennedy | 7m | |||
17 | ★ Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi
L-most line of bolts on slab, starting just behind the small tree. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'Twilight Groping'. FA: A. Lewes & T. Helleman, 2009 | 10m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Twilight Groping
Start 2m R of 'Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi'. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'DBACR'. FA: Richard Marshall, 1989 | 10m, 4 | |||
17 | Cheerios
Cheeky alternative start to Weetbix from the far right corner. Crimpy slab problem instead of the easy ladder of Weetbix. Set: Gabriel Kinzler, 4 Jun 2020 | 11m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Death Unto Racists
Delicate climbing. Starts 2m L of 'Bastard Cancer'. 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'BC'. FA: Jon Tiller, 1993 | 15m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Bastard Cancer
Arête just L of main slab. Nice rock. Bouldery start, can pre-clip first bolt from easy corner to R. 4 UBs (5 if you use last UB on 'Death Unto Racists') finishing at DBB shared with 'DUR'. FA: Richard Marshall, 1987 | 15m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Serial Madness
Start with 3 bolts of 'Bastard Cancer' traverse R, bolts 2-5 of 'Phantom Stone Thrower', continue up 'Ruddiocracy' then traverse to the anchor of 'Serial Driller' (crux) | 25m | |||
18 | ★ Phantom Stone Thrower
L-most end of main slab, 3m R of 'Bastard Cancer'. 5 UBs to chains. FA: Jon Tiller, 1993 | 20m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Trad Wankers Must Die
Start as for 'Oh Joyous Lobotomy'. At the 3rd UB head R past a final UB to anchors. The FH between the 3rd & 4th bolts doesn't offer additional protection and there's less rope drag if it's not clipped. FA: J. Domeney & S. Stojanovski, 1992 | 10m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Interloper
A somewhat contrived line, yet opening new possibilities. Start halfway between Urban Renewal and Jesus Built My Hammer Drill. Lower section is a crimp fest, middle section a side-pulling stepladder, upper section a cruxy blank face. Stay centred on the bolt line and do not use holds to your left (Resurrection) or right (Jesus). Finish at the same anchor as Resurrection and Drilling in the Name of. In loving memory of Majo. FA: Gabriel Kinzler & Alan Jackson, 9 Oct 2019 | 10m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Jesus Built My Hammer Drill
Good thin climbing up face to L of 'The Blind Leading The Crippled' arête. 4 UBs to anchors. FA: John Domeney, 1992 | 10m, 4 | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Proctor's Road Quarry Lower Tier Back Wall | |||||
18 | ★ Sister Morphine
| 23m | |||
18 | Opening Instructions
| 30m | |||
18 | Holiday in Lizardland
| 10m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Proctor's Road Quarry Lower Tier Right Wall | |||||
17 | Rock n Roll; No Rocks are Rolling
| 10m | |||
17 - 19 | ★ Commune
| 10m | |||
17 | ★ Hair Lip
| 8m | |||
18 | Plastic Surgery
| 7m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Proctor's Road Quarry Upper Tier | |||||
17 | Bombs Away
| 15m | |||
18 | ★★ Nukem All
| 10m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Broken Buttress | |||||
18 | ★★ Tired Cliches
| 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Rick the Redneck
| 25m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes University Buttress | |||||
18 | ★ Cleavage
Cracks left of the Triclinicity corner, to DBB. | 20m | |||
18 | ★ Triclinicity
The clean hand crack. Either step left at the roof (grade 17) or continue direct up the crack (grade 19). Belay anchors at top. FA: P. Robinson, K. Bischoff & Mar 1981., 1981 | 20m | |||
17 | ★★★ Chancellor Direct
Start: Starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir
FA: I. Lewis & L. Closs, 1972 | 60m, 2 | |||
18 | Sphygmus
| 18m | |||
18 | Canapes
1a. A tasty morsel climbing the left-hand arete. Thoughtful moves past the bolts, then over the small roof, with a trad hand crack to the DBB (17m). 1b. Extra Nibbles. (17) If you want a little more trad action, climb the alternative start up the crack just around to the left of Canapes, joining the original route above the roof. FA: B. Bull, T. McKenny & I. Crossland, Dec 2016 | 17m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ The Cocktail Hour
The arete directly off the walking track. Good but spaced protection. FA: Tony McKenny & Bob Bull, 2016 | 17m | |||
17 | Aperitif
Starts directly from the track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress. Climb right side of arete on flakes and horizontals. | 30m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | |||||
18 | ★★ The Wizard
| 80m, 3 | |||
18 | ★★★ Black Magic
Climb the slab, trending left of the prow to a lightly overhanging hand crack. Follow this up and over several spears of rock to a ledge (a belay can be set-up here to split the route into two pitches). From here, head to the crack on the left and follow it up and to the right, stepping right around the corner when it ends to DBB and rap-station. FA: Kim Carrigan & Ian Lewis, 1975 | 55m | |||
17 | Magic Mushroom Variants
| 50m | |||
17 | ★ Jelly Roll
Cracked face just to the right of the prow, 2m left of the tree. Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us, however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary (but the gear is good). Finishes with double bolt belay at the Black Magic step. FA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg & Apr 1978., 1976 | 35m | |||
17 | ★★ Crucio
| 30m | |||
17 | ★★ Cracked Pepper
FA: I. Snape, T. McKenny (alt.) & A. Adams, 2012 | 46m, 2 | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Teardrop Gully | |||||
18 | Dave's Wall
On the wide wall, 2m right of The Bentwood. Starting low to the left, climb the left hand side of the wall. Finally move right at the top to DBB. FA: D.Humphries & J.Nermut, 2014 | 12m | |||
18 | ★ Sleeping Dogs
Bolted line 3m right of Jon's Crack. Fun climbing on solid rock. Move straight up the rounded arete to DBB found 2m back from climb. DBB is up quite high on uneven ground, take care. FA: B.Bull, T.McKenny & I. Crossland | 12m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Gone Viral
Bolted line, close to the "waterfall". Shares DBB with Sleeping Dogs. FA: B. Maddison, B. Bull. & T. McKenny, Jan 2017 | 12m, 5 | |||
17 | Out Of The Frying Pan
chimney left of FTA | 32m | |||
17 | Dave's Climb
The crack climb to the niche, then awkward and thoughtful climbing to the top. FA: D. James & D. Rollins, 2010 | 10m | |||
18 | ★★ Ano's Sojourn
| 10m | |||
17 | Fire and Forget
| 12m | |||
17 | ★ You are not my Friend
Starts just uphill of the pinnacle in an offwidth crack. Climb three offwidth sections to belay in base of chimney. Scramble out. FA: Deano & Topher, 2012 | 20m | |||
18 | ★★★ Suzerain
| 32m | |||
18 | ★★ Built like a donkey
| 22m | |||
17 | Pretty septic
| 14m | |||
18 | ★ Sheeza
| 17m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Step Tier | |||||
17 | ★★★ Moonraker variant
Alternative to the first two pitches of Moonraker. Pitch 1: Climb the crag for 10m, traverse right in the horizontal break to the cave and keep going as for Moonraker Pitch 2: Follow original variant until below the chimney, then step right to a small ledge and continue with the steep crack until you reach the original line again. Pitch 3: to rap station as for Moonraker | 77m, 3 | |||
17 | ★★ Xenophanes
Nice line, take a #4 and #5. FA: I Lewis & D Hain, 1974 | 81m, 3 | |||
18 | ★★ Opthalmia
| 80m | |||
17 | Sunday Morning Fever!
| 25m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Great Tier | |||||
17 | Choc-o-Block
| 25m | |||
17 | ★ Manic Melancholy
A less vegetated variant for Melancholy Mania. Takes the rib if rock to the L of the second pitch of Melancholy Mania. Scramble around from Suicide Sadness to avoid the first pitch of the above climb and belay at the base of the chimney. Climb up cracks and shallow corner past rooflet and blocky sections up the belay for Melancholy Mania. | 50m | |||
17 | ★★ Janzoon
Pitch 2+3 can be combined. FA: I.Lewis & B.Kennedy, 1974 | 60m, 3 | |||
18 | ★★★ Suicide Sadness
| 60m | |||
18 | ★★ Twist in My Sobriety
FFA: I. Snape & T. McKenny FA: Pitches 1, 2: T. McKenny, A. Beech. Pitch 3: I. Snape & T. McKenny, 2011 | 50m, 3 | |||
18 | Shaky Flakes
FA: D. Fife & P. Mackenzie, 1983 | 10m | |||
17 | ★★★ Blue Meridian
A must do if you are in this area of the Pipes. Trad with DBB anchor stations at the top of both pitches. | 90m, 2 | |||
17 | Procrastination
3m left of Kabling is a right facing corner. Up this then slightly left to top of yellow fin. Fiddle in some gear and climb the short crux wall, to a belay on the main ramp. FA: T Mckenny, A Beech & O Gervasoni FFA: 2013 | 35m | |||
17 | ★★ Kabling
On the lower tier, 15m left of where the track meets the tier, is a compact black streaked wall leading to a featured roof. Excellent face climbing past a FH to a ledge. Up corner above before moving right and through the big roof, then the face and arete above to DBB. Scramble a further 10m to the base of G Pillar. Micro cams important. FA: O. Gervasoni & B. Ikin, 2012 | 25m, 1 | |||
18 | ★ Master Class
FA: T. McKenny, B. Bull, T. McKenny & B. Bull, Feb 2017 | 20m, 2 | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | |||||
17 | ★ Catacomb
| 30m | |||
18 | ★★ Centurion
| 30m | |||
17 | Circus Minimus
| 30m | |||
18 | Obelix
| 40m | |||
17 | ★★ Legionary
| 35m | |||
18 | ★ Bad Back
Below Battle Cruiser ledge. Bolted route slightly uphill left & around the corner from "The Three Stooges." FA: J. Nermut & D. Humphries | 12m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ The Three Stooges
Obvious bolted face below Battle Cruiser ledge, located up side track between Great Tier & Central Buttress access. Mantle near top & across some loose ground to rap station. FA: T. McKenny, S. Scott & B. Bull | 20m, 7 | |||
18 | ★ Living the Dream
20m R of The Three Stooges up secondary track. Tricky start then up arete. FA: M. Bailey, B. Bull, T. McKenny & D. Bruce | 12m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★★ Battle Cruiser
Both pitches are awesome. Start: Shares the same start as Twice.
FA: M. Law & D. Bowman., 1978 | 74m, 2 | |||
18 | Twice
| 90m, 3 | |||
18 | Youth With a Mission
| ||||
18 | ★★★ Third Bird
Up the corner from the natural belay bench. Challenging, sustained, airy climbing with good gear.
Rap from DBB anchors (2 raps). Set: Ian Lewis & Lyle Closs, 1973 | 80m, 2 | |||
18 | Banana Republic
Start 3m right of Third Bird
FA: D. Stephenson & N. Deka, 1988 | 95m, 3 | |||
18 | High Flyers
Climbs up the hand crack directly above the bolts at the top of pitch 2 of Acid Test. | 42m | |||
17 | Scotch Mist
| 30m, 2 | |||
17 | Faith, Hope and Deliverance
| 30m, 2 | |||
18 | On the Road Again
| 55m, 2 | |||
18 | Clowning Around
| 60m | |||
18 | ★★ Centre Stage
| 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Circus Taz
| 60m, 3 | |||
18 | ★★★ Arthur's Circus
| 55m, 2 | |||
18 | Polymorpha
| 35m | |||
17 | Double Trouble or Triple Treat
| 37m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | |||||
17 | ★ Chop Sticks
Originally a short, bold, route connecting the Fiddlesicks ledge to the 1st belay of Precarious. A retro-bolt or two (as part of the logical arete line CSTS) have tamed the route, which is now normally done as part of AT or CSTS. FA: H Jackson & M Jackson, 2000 | 8m | |||
18 | ★★★ Digitalis
1
18
26m
2
18
36m
Start: Crack system to the L, around arete of Brown Madonna.
FFA: D Bowman & M. Steane FA: J. Moore & R. Williams, 1977 | 62m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Canis Minor
| 62m, 2 | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes The Columns | |||||
18 | Birthday Treat
| 27m | |||
18 | Firebird
| 65m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Pooh Corner
| 72m, 2 | |||
18 | F-Sharp
| 100m, 3 | |||
18 | Incision
| 100m | |||
17 | ★ Datsun Sunny
Technical and interesting climbing up the short wall left of PS. FA: O Gervasoni & R Parkyn, Jan 2017 | 14m, 8 | |||
17 | ★ Battlements Direct
| 40m | |||
18 | ★★ Sandy Bay Road
| 35m | |||
18 - 20 | ★★ Soliton
| 35m | |||
17 | ★★ Double Column Central
The crack / chimney up the centre of the column is a varied classic adventure. FA: M Douglas & T Terry, 1967 FFA: B Kennedy & L Closs, 1970 | 77m, 4 | |||
18 | Bad Attitude
|