Rio Oro Mostly Trad climbing 10 routes in crag

Introduction

Rio Oro is a small wall in a tributary of the Virilla river system. Although not as fruitful as Forum, Cachi, or some of the other climbing locations in Costa Rica, Rio Oro does have some advantages. Firstly, the short walls, but higher grades provide an advanced version of El Coliseo that beginner climbers may find useful. Also if you like the idea of highball bouldering, but don’t have the confidence to go the distance off a rope, this is a good training ground. Finally, the location and ease of accessibility make it a painless half day trip. This being said, Rio Oro does have a lot of homemade anchors and bolts. It is highly recommended to bring some stoppers to back up your belay, or top rope off of one of the many trees, rather than lead some of the routes and chance a fall onto a homemade bolt. Accidents have happened here so if you choose to climb at Rio Oro, please stay safe and be cautious

The wall

The routes at Rio Oro are either on the 9m high main wall or on a series of dislodged boulders that are a couple of meters shorter. The wall can often become dirty due to the rainy season, especially near the top of the wall, so it is recommended that you bring a brush. Many are in need of replacement, and proper anchors, however most can be climbed using top rope stations set up on trees.

Routes are listed left to right on the main wall (when facing the main wall), and counter clockwise on the free standing boulders. Many routes have homemade hardware and therefore cautious climbers may wish to back-up their lead with trad gear or slings. All routes are short, but most pack a punch worth their weight.

The Rock

Like Forum and El Coliseo, the rock is Ignimbrite, giving characteristic pockets and large sections of featureless vertical wall. Here you are going to find two main features, cracks and shallow pockets, although the odd pinch does show face. The shallow pockets and knobby feet require finger strength and footwork that will hone your skills.

Most of the climbs are vertical or nearly vertical with the exception of a few that are slightly overhanging.

Descent / Exiting the Ravine

In order to exit the ravine, you can either leave a rope on the large tree and climb out, then providing a top belay to your partner, or you can climb the large tree roots that run up the main wall. The roots can sometimes be dirty, and the most difficult section is at the top, so make sure that you are feeling strong and confident before scaling the roots.

Eating

Because of its location in the center of a housing area, there are no grocery stores or restaurants in the direct vicinity of Rio Oro. The best option is to bring food and water with you down to the wall. Other options include stopping off at Forum along the way to grab a bite at Mega Super, or one of the many restaurants in Lindora, or continuing along the highway towards Ciudad Colón for the eatery options for 'El Coliseo'.

Things to Remember

Costa Rica, more often than not, is an adventure to climb. Between trekking through jungles, fending off insects, and crossing paths with tropical animals you are sure to have a great day out. Here are a few things to keep in mind when climbing in Costa Rica:

• Bring extra water. With hot and humid often in the forecast you will drink more water than you may expect.
• Pack a brush; steel is best. Many climbs can become dirty after the rainy season and if you are climbing something that is friction dependent, you may need to do some spring-cleaning.
• It gets dark early and fast. This is especially true if you are in a ravine. Pack a headlamp or plan to get out early so that you do not get stuck in the dark.
• Bring a Spanish-English dictionary, if necessary. You never know when a couple words of Spanish will get you out of a jam.